[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by enrita

ah ok with 1 oil cooler is fine than.

I am testing highway oil temp drops as well, so we will have data. I will try to post the review as soon as I can.

[enrita]

Looking forward to see the data. Was saying about temp on 2 oil cooler because my shop developped a modified Termostat piston that is able to close completely the recirculation to the oil cooler since the OEM one always let most of the oil going back into the engine. they tested it on the Ring in germany with excellent results. With stock unit after 3 full laps they got a limp because of the oil temp and with the modified one even after 5 laps the temp was in check.
When i asked them if that could suit my setup they were worried about the oil temp getting up to normal level because i have 2 oil coolers.

[._.]

so no thermostat means a cheaper retrofit....nice.

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by enrita

Looking forward to see the data. Was saying about temp on 2 oil cooler because my shop developped a modified Termostat piston that is able to close completely the recirculation to the oil cooler since the OEM one always let most of the oil going back into the engine. they tested it on the Ring in germany with excellent results. With stock unit after 3 full laps they got a limp because of the oil temp and with the modified one even after 5 laps the temp was in check.
When i asked them if that could suit my setup they were worried about the oil temp getting up to normal level because i have 2 oil coolers.

I am still not sure there is a definitive answer as to where the stock oil thermostat opens. A lot of people say 240F, but I am not sure that is accurate.

[2wheelsrbetter]

i'm curious about the thermostat too. this may sound like a dumb question, but do we know where it is? i assumed it was in the filter housing, and thought i've heard that on the site somewhere. except when installing my cooler, i was rushing and forgot to tighten a fitting on the cooler itself, and the hose popped off and shot oil everywhere when i started the car. this was with a cold engine. i can't imagine the thermostat is inside the stock cooler?
anyway it would appear i'm running with no thermostat.
actually now that i'm writing this, i have an engine code i've been meaning to get checked. is it possible i have a bad thermostat? would it default to open or closed? my guess is open...

[ar design]

Originally Posted by 2wheelsrbetter

i'm curious about the thermostat too. this may sound like a dumb question, but do we know where it is? i assumed it was in the filter housing, and thought i've heard that on the site somewhere. except when installing my cooler, i was rushing and forgot to tighten a fitting on the cooler itself, and the hose popped off and shot oil everywhere when i started the car. this was with a cold engine. i can't imagine the thermostat is inside the stock cooler?
anyway it would appear i'm running with no thermostat.
actually now that i'm writing this, i have an engine code i've been meaning to get checked. is it possible i have a bad thermostat? would it default to open or closed? my guess is open...

They eliminated it on their setup. Without one, oil can take longer to warm up, especially in cold weather. Something to consider.

[enrita]

Originally Posted by Former_Boosted_IS

I am still not sure there is a definitive answer as to where the stock oil thermostat opens. A lot of people say 240F, but I am not sure that is accurate.

Former is not about when it opens but the sealing of it. It wont redirect all oil to the oil cooler , only part of it which prevents to fully use the capacity of the oil cooler itself.
i guess if you live in an hot country 12 months a year is fine to keep it always open but for rigid winter countries you need to close the loop in order to allow the oil to get up into operating temperature quickly.

[adhalla]

Originally Posted by ar design

They eliminated it on their setup. Without one, oil can take longer to warm up, especially in cold weather. Something to consider.

oil takes longer to warm up in cold weather because there is not thermostat?

[._.]

The thermostat would keep the oil cooler blocked off allowing the oil to circulate within the engine longer, absorbing more heat and not cooling in the oil cooler.

[ar design]

Originally Posted by Former_Boosted_IS

I am testing highway oil temp drops as well, so we will have data. I will try to post the review as soon as I can.

You need to get your car on the track - testing on the street will not really tell you if the cooler is going to work on the track. The amount of BTUs generated on the track by a pro driver is going to be MUCH higher than on the street. Only that will tell you if a cooler sheds enough heat to keep t he car cool. I have yet to see a car with a stock oil cooler over-heat on the street.

[forza1976]

Originally Posted by ar design

You need to get your car on the track - testing on the street will not really tell you if the cooler is going to work on the track. The amount of BTUs generated on the track by a pro driver is going to be MUCH higher than on the street. Only that will tell you if a cooler sheds enough heat to keep t he car cool. I have yet to see a car with a stock oil cooler over-heat on the street.

+1

So true, on the street I have never seen much over 255 but my track sessions this year I was easily pushing 280 and 290 on the road courses.

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by ar design

You need to get your car on the track - testing on the street will not really tell you if the cooler is going to work on the track. The amount of BTUs generated on the track by a pro driver is going to be MUCH higher than on the street. Only that will tell you if a cooler sheds enough heat to keep t he car cool. I have yet to see a car with a stock oil cooler over-heat on the street.

Amen!!! Street driving and canyon runs will never tell what you need to know. Don't just take it to the track. As AR Design intimated, take it to the track and have great (pro or racer) driver drive it hard. Also make sure to track it in high ambient temps.

W/O this your testing is almost worthless.

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by jbass524

Amen!!! Street driving and canyon runs will never tell what you need to know. Don't just take it to the track. As AR Design intimated, take it to the track and have great (pro or racer) driver drive it hard. Also make sure to track it in high ambient temps.

W/O this your testing is almost worthless.

Guys your comments are almost comical. Collecting data is worthless? How many of us have professional drivers racing our car? I am simply providing data that I am able to collect in an environment most will use this car. If others want to test under track use, then more power to them and I look forward to the data. We are all not track cars.

[jbass524]

Originally Posted by Former_Boosted_IS

Guys your comments are almost comical. Collecting data is worthless? How many of us have professional drivers racing our car? I am simply providing data that I am able to collect in an environment most will use this car. If others want to test under track use, then more power to them and I look forward to the data. We are all not track cars.

Apologies. I see your point. We are all not track cars.

[STETT Performance]

Hey guys...

We did indeed delete the factory thermostat. We designed the patent pending thermostat delete/adapter plate for a couple of reasons, the factory thermostat obstructs oil flow and most importantly it aids in the high oil temps (250+ just city driving) that these cars are notorious for.

Ideal oil temps are 180-210 degrees. Most oil manufacturer's viscosity ratings are done at 200-210 degrees. It's expected that if you drive your car hard (street or track) that oil temperatures will rise. As oil temps begin to climb and the viscosity drops the oil film becomes thinner. Once oil reaches 240+ degrees its break down rate doubles. Besides the obvious impact this can have on bearings, cylinder walls etc, it creates varnish and deposits inside the engine (and turbos of course) which can cause sticky/noisy lifters, misfires, obstructed oil flow etc. We have a shop full of BMW motors that illustrate this. This is all fact information you can call and get from even the Mobil 1 tech department themselves if you'd like. On our test cars oil temps have reached operating temperature just fine, even on cooler days like this morning (49 degrees) and stayed in the 180-200 range depending on traffic. Yes, in very cold climates it could be difficult to get oil operating temps up the way we'd like. This is why we will be offering an inline thermostat for those in extreme cold temperatures and it will simply be to aid in oil warm up on street cars. For you racers, you should never hit the track with a cold engine anyway so you'll be bringing the oil and coolant up to ideal temps before getting serious. Additionally, one must consider overcooling of the oil by purchasing the wrong cooler for your needs. If you're running a stock or nearly stock 335i and just do the occasional spirited blast down the road then you don't need our Stage 2 setup, the Stage 1 would be better for you. On the other hand, if you're fully modded, running 16 pounds of boost and driving your 335i like it's meant to be driven then you should be opting for our Stage 2. Because the Stage 2 has a larger core it will take slightly longer to warm up than the Stage 1 but it will be able to cool more.

Although we have not set out to prove this yet and are not making any claims, we have noticed a significant drop in oil accumulation within the pressure piping.

Here are a couple raw pics below. The top one was taken on a 111 degree ambient day (with heavy humidity) after driving in rush hour traffic (and maybe one or two, ok maybe a handful, of accidental full throttle maneuvers ). The second pic was taken this morning at 55 degrees ambient, the car was driven in rush hour traffic (at 49 degrees ambient), sat for almost an hour and then driven 2 miles (at 55 degrees ambient). (no full throttle accidents).

Always remember, changing your oil more frequently than BMW's recommended interval will go great lengths to prolonging the life of your motor/turbos ESPECIALLY if you track the car. At bare minimum cut the service interval in half for street cars and if you regularly track your car cut it into thirds.

260 degrees on a street driven 335i is considered too high.


111 degree day driving in rush hour traffic:


55 degree morning driving in rush hour traffic:

[SloppyJoe]

STETT, does this work for people that does not have factory oil cooler?
All the other solutions avaialble requires us to buy the factory oil cooler retrofit as well.

[STETT Performance]

Originally Posted by SloppyJoe

STETT, does this work for people that does not have factory oil cooler?
All the other solutions avaialble requires us to buy the factory oil cooler retrofit as well.

Technically the coolers haven't been officially released yet but we do have the kits for those with factory coolers ready. For those without the factory cooler we are just about finished with these kits, they will only require the purchase of an OEM oil cooler/filter housing. We will have the entire package available. So the answer is no, all you will need is the oil filter housing designed for the OEM cooler.

[black e]

would it work on the N55 also?

[jbass524]

I didn't see any information on where the Stett OC mounts?

[STETT Performance]

Originally Posted by black e

would it work on the N55 also?

So far we have not found any incompatibility with the N55 equipped cars.

We will be confirming this on several N55 cars in the upcoming couple of weeks.

[STETT Performance]

Originally Posted by jbass524

I didn't see any information on where the Stett OC mounts?

It mounts in the passenger fender well.

[onefastman]

How about the 135i?

Need a test car?