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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Replacing Camshaft VANOS Solenoid



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      08-22-2016, 11:52 AM   #265
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Removed, cleaned and swapped both my intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids a little over a month ago because I was intermittently getting a 2A7C code. Seemed to take care of the problem and all was good. Fast forward to this past weekend and I get a 2A7A code, which I know is also Vanos related.

Not sure if related but car also seems to idle a little rough when first started (idles fine after warmed up and during driving) I know it's not coils, injectors or plugs as those have been done. And also fuel mileage seems to be a bit worse, went from about 18.5MPG (average combined) to 16.5MPG.

Thoughts? Should I replace both intake and exhaust Vanos solenoids with new ones? Cam angle sensor?
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Last edited by 94boosted; 08-22-2016 at 12:00 PM..
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      09-21-2016, 05:27 AM   #266
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Please could anyone point me in the right direction as I am unsure.

I scanned the car and found two codes, unfortunately I did not have a BMW scanner at the time so got P1554 and P0012. Had a look on the forum and found this post. I then marked the inlet and exhaust solenoids and soaked them in fuel, cleaned them up and reinstalled them (in the swapped position). I then cleared the codes, and hey presto, they were gone.

A few days later, when I started the car, the check engine light came on. I scanned the car again and the codes were back, but this time only P1553.

The next day, at work, I removed the solenoids again and spent a good 5 minutes blasting them with high pressure (workshop) air. Reinstalled the solenoids and cleared the codes, and once again the car is running code free.

The problem I am now having is that at slow speed, in higher gears, if I accelerate heavily from zero throttle then the engine hesitates and stumbles/stutters around 1500rpm. Once past 1500rpm the engine pulls with no problems.

I have read about oil getting into the pins of the Eccentric Shaft Sensor, so I will check it in the next few days. The other thing I am thinking is that it could be the filters on the check valves. So I might take them out and have a look at them/clean them.

Has anyone had this problem, and does anyone know how to solve it?
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      09-21-2016, 07:33 AM   #267
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Well this car is now becoming a PITA to deal with and Im getting tired of it.

Replaced both Vanos solenoids with new ones.
Replaced Cam position sensors with new ones
Replaced Coil packs with new ones
Replaced The check valves with new ones
Replaced Cam bearing ledges with new ones featuring teflon seals
Oil /Oil filter Change

But still 2A82 Inlet Vanos variable cam control test error will not go away.

Anyone going through the same and managed to solve it, please help out here. Im about to throw this thing in the bin.
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      09-21-2016, 08:16 AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutongoi View Post
Well this car is now becoming a PITA to deal with and Im getting tired of it.

Replaced both Vanos solenoids with new ones.
Replaced Cam position sensors with new ones
Replaced Coil packs with new ones
Replaced The check valves with new ones
Replaced Cam bearing ledges with new ones featuring teflon seals
Oil /Oil filter Change

But still 2A82 Inlet Vanos variable cam control test error will not go away.

Anyone going through the same and managed to solve it, please help out here. Im about to throw this thing in the bin.

Have you tried checking the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. Apparently, the quick test is to remove the connector (on the top of the valve cover) and look to see if there is any oil inside. Apparently it is a common failure that shows as vanos failure.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697252
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      09-21-2016, 08:18 AM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aymen_a22 View Post
Have you tried checking the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. Apparently, the quick test is to remove the connector (on the top of the valve cover) and look to see if there is any oil inside. Apparently it is a common failure that shows as vanos failure.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697252
I'll get on it right away and will revert with findings. Thank you.
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      11-07-2016, 06:10 PM   #270
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I just bought my set of Vanos and will replace mine when I get them. I will wash the engine bay first. Anyway, my car sometimes it hesitates 1-2nd and when I turn going about 35mph or so. I ve read some people fixed this issue by replacing the Vanos? I dont have any CEL or anything but I guess since I am at 137k miles I am due for new ones anyways.

Have anyone have had bad Vanos without any codes?
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      12-23-2016, 11:54 AM   #271
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I was having the CEL come on under hard acceration but no codes. Removed and Cleaned the vanos solenoids as per this awesome thread. Car was running better but still got CEL and no codes. Brought it to dealer for diagnosis and turned out to be the vaccuum canister leak. Part is on order and will be fixed next Wednesday. Will update this post after part is replaced.
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      12-30-2016, 05:56 AM   #272
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Well it was definitely a turbo vacuum canister leak causing the CEL. Car is back to running great again. Cleaning the vanos definitely made the car run/idle better and would definitely recommend to do it as preventative maintenance( maybe when changing plugs)
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      02-01-2017, 01:17 PM   #273
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E91 – Sports Wagon / Engine = N52K

Feb 2017 – 144,000 miles; 95% Freeway daily driving; Always top-tier gas; Pulls strong so I don’t suspect a vacuum leak.

Symptoms

1st: Every once in a while the car would shut-off after driving freeway speeds and then coming to a stop. Either after exiting the freeway at a stop light, or stopping due to traffic on the freeway. A real PIA. No codes, no lights
2nd: One day the car was idling low and vibrating hard upon start-up. The check engine light came on and I was able to limp to a Firestone to get the code read. If I remember correctly it was P0012 ‘A’ Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). They were able to change the Intake Camshaft Sensor and I was able to carry-on the next day.

Secondary Symptoms

After having the Intake Camshaft Sensor replaced, the car seemed to idle a bit lower, and shut-off twice. Once due to low idle and the second after coming to a stop on the freeway due to traffic. It then idled hard through traffic, but didn’t notice much once traffic was moving again.

But the car was harder to start. With a newly replaced (< 1year) starter, the car had a few “ka-ka-ka-ka-Vroom” upon start-up. Where before it would immediately start-up. No codes, no lights.

Possible remedy

After reading the posts about VANOS solenoids, rough idling, and the like, I cleaned and swapped the VANOS solenoids. This was my first thought because since the oil filter gasket was leaking, it had been throwing tiny specs of oil for some time and collecting dirt all over the VANOS connections and gaskets. I figured that over time those gaskets may have corroded some and that oily dirt may have found its way inside the VANOS causing my problems. I was able to blow out what looked like gunk from the solenoids, but maybe just specs of oil.

Results

After cleaning and swapping VANOS, the car immediately fired up like it used to before. The next morning it had a little slower start, but not like before. Solved? I guess only time will tell. Double checked the hose connections around the MAF and throttle body and it’s all tight.

Help from the Community

Without throwing money at random sensors and parts, does my experience mirror anyone else’s? I am considering changing the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor because changing pairs of sensors always seems to be better. Please, throw out some ideas.


2014 Repairs
Battery replaced

2015 Repairs
1 of 6 coils replaced
All new spark plugs
Starter replaced
K&N filter installed
Regular oil changes

2016 Repairs
Oil Filter Housing gasket
Coolant Expansion Tank replaced
Intake Camshaft Sensor replaced
MAF cleaned
Regular oil changes
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      02-02-2017, 04:14 AM   #274
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For anyone interested, I decided to dismantle my solenoid valve to see what was inside. It was very easy and I think it would probably work perfectly now.

Here is the link to show what I did.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1336573
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      02-20-2017, 06:43 AM   #275
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The other day I got the big yellow engine light, car went into limp home mode, and big loss of power.

I used MHD-Flasher to read the codes, 2A87 & 3100. Cleared them, and the 3100 came back. Searched online and found your DIY, great guide. I did some other searching and came up with some better info for cleaning the soleniods. Don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner they can be corrosive. I found that people are using CRC Electric Cleaner Quick Drying. It is non-corrosive and safe for electrical and delicate parts, won't harm plastic or other materials. It really cleaned them out great, got a lot of gunk out. It also dried really fast so I didn't have to wait long to put them back in.

Thanks to this DIY I didn't have to pay the stealership $1,100 nor did I have to pay my mechanic (who is great) $450, it took about 1 hour of my time and $9 at Napa for the cleaner!
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      02-27-2017, 10:18 PM   #276
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^ makes sense. unfortunately I even replaced my solenoids with new after market ones, to no avail (symptoms still there)
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      02-28-2017, 11:23 PM   #277
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      05-23-2017, 01:40 PM   #278
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Good thread, thanks!
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      05-30-2017, 12:02 AM   #279
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New to forum but long time lurker, wanted to give thanks! Had intermittent limp mode on the freeway every few weeks for months without any codes (My daily drive is all surface streets). Finally got 2A87 and 3100 codes when I checked right after limp mode.

I used this DIY to replace both solenoids, and limp mode hasn't returned. It's been just over three months. Thanks to OP and everyone who contributed!
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      05-30-2017, 06:18 PM   #280
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Did I miss something?

Hey everyone, a long story short...

Took my car (N52, 175000 miles) to a shop (car stalls with AC running while coming to a stop) they pulled codes saying my VANOS solenoids were bad, gave me a print out of the codes
2A82 Intake VANOS solenoid,
2A87 Exhaust VANOS solenoid

Read some forums, decided to clean the solenoids before replacing... blew them out put them back in. As soon as I started the car up, it was a ROUGH HARD idle (never happened before) then I figured I'd drive the car around a bit and see if they needed to "learn" or something... drove the car pretty hard around my area, and boom... the original sensors were working properly again

However, my original problem with the car stalling with the A/C on and coming to a stop still occurred. Decided to replace the solenoids. Put them in and the car started up perfectly, no rough idle or issues, AC on blast and no stalling. This happened while the engine was cold.


Fast forward a day later, the car now "stutters/hesitates" over 2500 RPM, and sometimes idles slightly rough... Did I miss a step in putting new solenoids in? Do I need to disconnect the battery, or see if the shop will reset the codes? I haven't had the AC on since... little chilly up here in PA. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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      06-04-2017, 01:19 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orionredwing View Post
My symptoms were mild. Every once in awhile, under WOT, this code would throw, causing the half engine light / limp mode to come up. For me, it only occurred occasionally under WOT like after 10-20 mins of continuous redlines (aka on the track). For more serious cases, some people have reported it triggers everytime they go WOT.

Basically, you're accelerating hard, it triggers, and you go into limp mode until you reset your car. Nothing else happens. Sometimes, it would cause misfires, and your car would shudder until you pull over and reset.
Yep, this is exactly what I experience on WOT.

- I went to the extent of replacing all spark plugs and coils new (didn't make a difference).
- replaced Bank 1 Fuel Injectors (still no difference).
- Wallnut blasted the intake valves (no difference although the car felt like it's running smoother "could be a placebo effect".
- Now i'm looking at simply cleaning the solenoids. Note, when I took both of mine out they were drenched in oil... Is this bad or normal?
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      07-18-2017, 03:28 PM   #282
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went to clean mine today, dropped the 10mm

luckily i could see where it landed and managed to get at it by taking a few bolts off the under shield.

went back to take the solenoid off and realised i hadn't taken the engine cover off.

decided to call it quits and return when i'm thinking straight
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      10-06-2017, 11:29 AM   #283
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throwing fault code P0015 continually. is this vanos solenoid issue? code states: "B" camshaft position - timing over-retarded bank 1
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      10-06-2017, 12:14 PM   #284
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Camshaft Sensor

I believe P0015 is your camshaft sensor. Either input or output sensor. Replace them both since they are relatively cheap. Buy new screws as well because they used aluminum screws and should never be reused. Good info here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...or_Testing.htm
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      11-20-2017, 06:49 PM   #285
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I removed the vanos solenoids out last couple 0f 20K miles and cleaned it, reinstalled and the machine is happy to keep the oil flowing through it. Keeping the Engine ticking noise away.
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      01-07-2018, 11:17 PM   #286
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Does anyone have a PDF with the pictures? Trying to make sure I have the connectors on the right vanos
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