[dzenno]

Originally Posted by F104

check simple things first - is your coolant level going down or not? For a mechanic to be able to 'taste' the difference between water and fuel on the plug you must have one major leak into one cylinder. Assuming it was just one cylinder. And 6-cylinders don't run well on just 3 of them.

never got a low coolant light..never did the car overheat...just rough "cold" start...after a few (2-5) restarts in the first 1-2 minutes the car starts running perfectly fine without any issues after that whatsoever..

[dzenno]

just a thought ....

what would happen if the front o2 sensor was completely shot, didn't work at all? could this exact thing happen?

NOTE: CAR HAS NO catalytic converters on it...wouldn't it just throw cat codes and not misfire??

I ran leaded race gas twice in the car and I'm wondering if that could've done any of this...

[F104]

Originally Posted by dzenno

never got a low coolant light..never did the car overheat...just rough "cold" start...after a few (2-5) restarts in the first 1-2 minutes the car starts running perfectly fine without any issues after that whatsoever..

Forget about the nearly too late idiots light- simply open the hood, get the cover off, and see where the the level is as per the manual, and monitor that. Damned hard to believe you have a head gasket leak to coolant if your coolant is still above the minimum mark

[02themax]

Originally Posted by F104

Forget about the nearly too late idiots light- simply open the hood, get the cover off, and see where the the level is as per the manual, and monitor that. Damned hard to believe you have a head gasket leak to coolant if your coolant is still above the minimum mark

I'm thinking this as well, but the $250 leak down will confirm it then you can focus on something else and not have to worry about a BHG. Could be leaky injectors, valve cover seal etc...

[OpenFlash]

+1
Get a leakdown for a performance shop (not a dealership). No need to worry about anything just yet. So far, the problem you are describing has been experienced by dozens of people on this forum. With the exception of a sweet tasting spark plug. But I wouldn't trust a dealership tech's tongue when it comes to something this important. That does sound dirty. Unintentional.

Shiv

[Vudoo4u2]

I had the identical issue, rough idle, misfires on a cold start, and ONLY on a cold start...if it was the 2nd start of the day, car was fine, 3rd start, no problem...

If i tried to start it and it was cranking long (occasionally) I would turn it off, and when I tried again it would start right away but keep misfiring

Do yourself a favor first, and have them do the manual check of the fuel pump. I did not have any fuelpump codes, but after they did a manual pressure test etc, they found it to be functioning @ 1/2 of the proper level, and that was causing my terrible cold starts.

They also replaced an injector that they found to be leaking (just 1) and replaced the spark plugs (which it seems they have already done for you)

thats an easy item for them to check, and even easier to replace (not to mention..very very warrantied)

it helped my car, perhaps it will for yours

p.s. it took me three visits before they would finally just check the fuel pump...they blamed it on everything else first...and I kept asking, please check the fuel pump....alas...they finally did

[ridin135]

Doubt its the head gasket it would be quite noticable. It would smoke all the time depending on how bad the leak is and alot upon start up. Also you will notice a very sweet smell you couldn't miss it. Also just check your coolant level if its low then you have a leak somewhere.

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by Vudoo4u2

I had the identical issue, rough idle, misfires on a cold start, and ONLY on a cold start...if it was the 2nd start of the day, car was fine, 3rd start, no problem...

If i tried to start it and it was cranking long (occasionally) I would turn it off, and when I tried again it would start right away but keep misfiring

Do yourself a favor first, and have them do the manual check of the fuel pump. I did not have any fuelpump codes, but after they did a manual pressure test etc, they found it to be functioning @ 1/2 of the proper level, and that was causing my terrible cold starts.

They also replaced an injector that they found to be leaking (just 1) and replaced the spark plugs (which it seems they have already done for you)

thats an easy item for them to check, and even easier to replace (not to mention..very very warrantied)

it helped my car, perhaps it will for yours

p.s. it took me three visits before they would finally just check the fuel pump...they blamed it on everything else first...and I kept asking, please check the fuel pump....alas...they finally did

did you pay them to check the fuel pump?? thing is that their head mechanic claims he saw water around the plugs so this is why they have some idea what it could be but are not sure...for a fuel pump it'd be strange that it operated at 1/2 pressure and no pressure codes...what build date is your car?

[mycoupe]

Originally Posted by dzenno

did you pay them to check the fuel pump?? thing is that their head mechanic claims he saw water around the plugs so this is why they have some idea what it could be but are not sure...for a fuel pump it'd be strange that it operated at 1/2 pressure and no pressure codes...what build date is your car?

dear god OP...either stop arguing with all the people on here that are trying to help you, and do what they're saying...or stop posting and just let us know what you get charged for when it's fixed.

As far as what caused your problem??? Could have been ANY of the mods you've done to your car. I swear, people should have to pass a test that proves they either have deep pockets for getting their car fixed, or enough knowledge to have some sort of clue as to what their mods do to the car before they're allowed to purchase them!

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by mycoupe

dear god OP...either stop arguing with all the people on here that are trying to help you, and do what they're saying...or stop posting and just let us know what you get charged for when it's fixed.

As far as what caused your problem??? Could have been ANY of the mods you've done to your car. I swear, people should have to pass a test that proves they either have deep pockets for getting their car fixed, or enough knowledge to have some sort of clue as to what their mods do to the car before they're allowed to purchase them!

wtf? you're the one arguing..i'm just having a discussion..whatever, chill out...

[bulldog_yyc]

Originally Posted by dzenno

wtf? you're the one arguing..i'm just having a discussion..whatever, chill out...

so whats the result of the leakdown?

[dzenno]

they didn't call me back after i was there this morning so i think they didn't get to doing it today so most likely Monday...we'll see...man i was just about to get an LSD and a meth kit in the next 2 weeks

[Vudoo4u2]

Originally Posted by dzenno

did you pay them to check the fuel pump?? thing is that their head mechanic claims he saw water around the plugs so this is why they have some idea what it could be but are not sure...for a fuel pump it'd be strange that it operated at 1/2 pressure and no pressure codes...what build date is your car?

they did a routine fuel pump test, no cost since the hpfp has such high rates of failure and I was complaining of some typical hpfp items (albeit, a pressure test on the hpfp should not cost much if they do charge).

build date was 1/08, most recent software..for whatever reason I didnt trip the codes. it took me a couple trips before they went ahead and checked it (despite me originally asking)...they kept telling me no codes...then when they went to check it as a favor to me...the hpfp didnt pass their test.

id have them do it, they should do it under warranty given the number of issues you have had (I say this bc hphp has 10yr warranty..)

it could solve your problem in a 2 hour procedure

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by Vudoo4u2

they did a routine fuel pump test, no cost since the hpfp has such high rates of failure and I was complaining of some typical hpfp items (albeit, a pressure test on the hpfp should not cost much if they do charge).

build date was 1/08, most recent software..for whatever reason I didnt trip the codes. it took me a couple trips before they went ahead and checked it (despite me originally asking)...they kept telling me no codes...then when they went to check it as a favor to me...the hpfp didnt pass their test.

id have them do it, they should do it under warranty given the number of issues you have had (I say this bc hphp has 10yr warranty..)

it could solve your problem in a 2 hour procedure

I'll try that with them on Monday provided that they don't come back with a positive leak down test...its really hard, if not impossible, to get them to try testing anything that's not part of their flow chart...i barely got them to try changing my plugs and that was probably done because it was the next one on the mechanic's flow chart ...

[shifterboy45]

why is everyone (including the dealer) recommending a leak-down test -- ???

the majority of leakdown testing is to troubleshoot a leaky valve/valve seat or the piston rings inability to properly expand and seal off the combustion chamber from the crankcase..

the drill on head gasket is similar to this:

Visual -- is there a cross contamination in the valve covers area and/or the radiator (milkshake)

Primary Testing -- using a an approved pressure tester and bring the system to 20-22psi and let the car sit for a least an hour -- pull the plugs and check for the presence of coolant/water by borescope, or if your brave -- crank the engine over - second technique will result in the small geyser of coolant out of the affected cylinder.

Last resort test -

using the probe on an exhaust gas analyser / or colored dye kit (which turns colors when there is HC/CO present ---)

so make sure you dont get in the boat of having someone do an ineffective test and wind up paying for nothing...

i guess thats the simple diagnostic flow chart way -- but hey!! what do i know?

[Vudoo4u2]

Originally Posted by dzenno

I'll try that with them on Monday provided that they don't come back with a positive leak down test...its really hard, if not impossible, to get them to try testing anything that's not part of their flow chart...i barely got them to try changing my plugs and that was probably done because it was the next one on the mechanic's flow chart ...

do you get "long" cranks @ any point on your cold start?

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by Vudoo4u2

do you get "long" cranks @ any point on your cold start?

No long cranks...car starts up right away...were you going after the fuel pump?

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by shifterboy45

why is everyone (including the dealer) recommending a leak-down test -- ???

the majority of leakdown testing is to troubleshoot a leaky valve/valve seat or the piston rings inability to properly expand and seal off the combustion chamber from the crankcase..

the drill on head gasket is similar to this:

Visual -- is there a cross contamination in the valve covers area and/or the radiator (milkshake)

Primary Testing -- using a an approved pressure tester and bring the system to 20-22psi and let the car sit for a least an hour -- pull the plugs and check for the presence of coolant/water by borescope, or if your brave -- crank the engine over - second technique will result in the small geyser of coolant out of the affected cylinder.

Last resort test -

using the probe on an exhaust gas analyser / or colored dye kit (which turns colors when there is HC/CO present ---)

so make sure you dont get in the boat of having someone do an ineffective test and wind up paying for nothing...

i guess thats the simple diagnostic flow chart way -- but hey!! what do i know?

Thanks. I'll make sure I have this handy when I talk to them come Monday...reason for a leak down was, according to them, water/coolant noticed around spark plugs which the mechanic performed a "taste" test on to make sure it wasn't fuel..make sense?

[Vudoo4u2]

Originally Posted by dzenno

No long cranks...car starts up right away...were you going after the fuel pump?

perhaps you should get them on a different flow chart and complain of slightly long cranks

I was perfect after the fuel pump swap. like the day I got the car

[dzenno]

Originally Posted by Vudoo4u2

perhaps you should get them on a different flow chart and complain of slightly long cranks

man that made me laugh i'll try whatever i can at this point..

[shifterboy45]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Thanks. I'll make sure I have this handy when I talk to them come Monday...reason for a leak down was, according to them, water/coolant noticed around spark plugs which the mechanic performed a "taste" test on to make sure it wasn't fuel..make sense?

a "smell" test would have been sufficient -- but who knows with techs nowadays -- i sure in the hell wouldnt taste it

if they think there is coolant/water in the cylinder, its as easy as pulling the plug(s)

ive run into problems with head gasket compromise and coolant passage issue in the past --

the cylinder head gasket is a composite -- made in layers and there is a "fire ring" (which is metal) that actually seals off the combustion chamber. the rest of the gasket is ported to allow coolant/oil flow to the cylinder and clearance the cylinder head from the block (ie desired thickness -- a thinner gasket would give less valve/piston clearance and increase combustion ratio)

if the fire ring failed and deteriorated the gasket around the coolant passage area then there is a leak, into the coolant system, and you will notice the result when the engine is shut off for a while and restarted.. remember, the cooling system is still pressurized and no pressure in the combustion chamber.

if it damages the coolant/oil passage area then u get the cross contamination scenario .

but the bottom line is - the fire ring is exposed to high pressures and heat, and those will eventually take there toll...

but cross your fingers, they may find something more simplistic .. hopefully

cheers

[farbmw]

If it is the head-gasket why would the warranty not come into play? I was told that the warranty was bumper to bumper when I bought my beast.

IMO I think it's the fuel pump, the way the car is acting, I seen allot of threads here and other forums, and it is always the fuel-pump. (why would BMW make two pumps that would fail I will nevr know)

And we all know that the fuel pump is covered, and the dealer will try to get money out of you before they will pay the bill, it makes up for the difference in there operating cost.

You should go to a dealer that will help you and not themselves.(Which would be hard to find)

Like someone suggested earlier take the car to RMP or Bimmersport.

They are honest and will be straight with you.