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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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01-05-2012, 08:08 AM | #1497 | |
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If you want an awesome looking sealant that you don't have to use a wax afterward with the Blackfire Wet Diamond All Metal Sealant is definitely my pick. It looks amazing and protects for months while easy to use. If you wanted to you can layer a wax over it but it's not necessary. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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01-05-2012, 09:28 AM | #1498 | |
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Was looking for a seal for the paint, seems the Metal Seal above is mainly used for wheels. Did you mean the "Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger" product? Also, any recomendations for a QD alternative to Z6? Thanks again!
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01-05-2012, 11:35 PM | #1499 |
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Hey been having a real problem with our new m3 and my friends 335i (lemans blue and interlegos blue respectively). Recently we have noticed what looks to be like "pitting" or thousands of little "dots" in the paint work (Mostly on horizontal surfaces). Looks like someone poked the pairs thousands of times with a needle. Tried everything down to a suburf with optimum compound to remove them. The suburf defiantly made them a lot less noticeable but still there. What could these be? Am I safe to hit them with another pass or two of suburf. It's weird because they only recently became noticeable. Both cars had been polished by me when we first got them and the dots weren't there. I'm baffled
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01-07-2012, 12:02 PM | #1500 | |
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01-07-2012, 12:33 PM | #1501 | |
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01-07-2012, 04:26 PM | #1502 | |
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01-10-2012, 06:26 PM | #1503 |
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01-11-2012, 02:23 AM | #1504 |
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Hi Greg, I recently purchased some products from you including Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000. I have a 6.5' orange and white pad for my porter cable. I Had my car prepped by the dealer (should have passed on it) and I have noticed some very light hazing on the corner of the rear bumper. Car is space grey.
I plan to use the polish with the orange pad first and then follow up with the white pad. Do you think this process will be abrasive enough to remove the hazing? Thx in advance
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01-14-2012, 10:24 PM | #1505 |
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Drives: e92 335i 6MT
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What is this and how do I get rid of it?
Hi Greg!
Q: I recently acquired this car and noticed that it has some type of substance caked on along the roof seal. Looks like it's from a bad detail job from the past. What is it (polish?) and how do I get rid of it? It has a very dry, chalk like texture. PS. I'm just entering into the detailing world and will be doing a lot of reading on your site over the upcoming months. I look forward to acquiring a full line of detailing products once I better get a grasp of everything |
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01-15-2012, 02:34 PM | #1506 | |
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01-15-2012, 02:37 PM | #1507 | |
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01-15-2012, 04:58 PM | #1508 |
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Rock chips on my ROCKer panel; slightly smaller than pencil eraser.
I have the OEM paint stick + clear. Is there a way to make it disappear (i.e. apply in stages; wet sand, continue)? Thanks! |
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01-16-2012, 07:38 AM | #1509 | |
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01-19-2012, 08:23 AM | #1510 | |
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02-07-2012, 05:18 PM | #1511 |
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Quick question - I have a blue water metallic e90 and am looking for a good sealant + wax, my main concerns are:
1. It rains A LOT here - every 2nd day so I'd like a product that sheets off the water and maintains the shine well 2. I'm currently looking at the Blackfire wet diamond as the sealant and the poorboys natty blue paste wax, but I read that the PB is more for darker paint? The blue water metallic paint is light so not sure if this product is correct? 3. Any other products on your site that you would recommend : microfiber towels and applicator products for the sealant + wax Thank you! |
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02-08-2012, 01:35 PM | #1512 |
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1 + 2.) I think you are on the right track with the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger first and then a wax layered on top of it. The Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax looks great on all colors it just seems to be at it's absolute best when it's on darker colors, but it should look great on the light blue as well. If you want some of the best protection that looks amazing on blue paint the Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard Wax is a favorite of mine. I've always liked the extended protection their waxes offer and very tight water beading.
3.) I would apply each one with a separate CLEAN applicator, the DI Accessories Yellow Foam Applicator Pad or the Lake Country Red Foam Applicator Pad are both great. Wait at least 15+ minutes before buffing off the excess product with a CLEAN microfiber towel. For sealants and waxes I can typically use about 1 - 2 towels per coat I remove, therefore I'd suggest getting 2 - 4 of the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towels. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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02-11-2012, 05:08 PM | #1513 |
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Is it bad to powerwash the car every other day?
I do to keep the salt off but I'm wondering if I'm doing more harm than good. Also I have marks from tree sap that got on my car in the fall. I've since cleaned the area, but it looks like those older cars that have failed clear coats. I haven't tried clay bar or wax on it to get it off yet but would these likely get the crap off? |
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02-11-2012, 06:05 PM | #1514 |
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Greg,
A local dealer used some armor all type product that has turned my soft leatherette into a harder shiny vinyl. Is this reversible? I hope to come visit you on my way back to syracuse next month. |
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02-11-2012, 06:18 PM | #1515 |
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hey George.
sorry i'm not knowledgeable about any of this tech stuff like everyone else on the site. But i bought an e92 coupe and it's Jet Black. I park outdoors, i have no other option. Living in Florida, with my last car the sun completely baked the paint. Now that I have a car I care about, is there a way to protect my car from sun baking without covering it everyday and uncovering when I want to drive? |
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02-12-2012, 04:01 PM | #1516 | |
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Ironically if the sap is very fresh pressure washing is a good way to remove it without scrubbing it excessively. For old build ups it's really tough to remove, but usually a combination of Stoner Tarminator, mineral spirits or an adhesive remover will help followed by a clay bar and polish. If the marks have etched the paint you'll need to polish the area to restore a more uniform appearance. Usually the Meguiar's M105 and M205 are my go to options here. If the sap has eaten all the way through the clear coat it may need to see a body shop or possibly a little wet sanding and polishing will fix it. If you're not sure try to post up some quality photos and I'll do my best to help. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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02-12-2012, 04:15 PM | #1517 | |
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02-12-2012, 04:22 PM | #1518 | |
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I'd suggest a quality sealant for the exterior paint, headlights, glass, coated/smooth trim, wheels, etc. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is a great option that looks amazing on black and protects very well. The paint will oxidize over time and polishing it will be critical to maintaining that fresh and beautiful appearance. The Meguiar's M205 is a nice one step process if interested in doing it by hand. If you want noticeable better results try using both the Meguiar's M105 and M205 with a very safe and easy to use buffer (i.e. Porter Cable 7424 XP). A kit like this would be ideal (DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Basic Kit) as it will restore virtually any paint to like new condition. For the exterior and interior vinyl, plastic, leather and rubber surfaces I'd highly recommend the 303 303 Aerospace Protectant! It has superior UV protection and when applied nice and light it's a pretty matte finish so it doesn't look or feel greasy. You can also use the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard on fabrics if you want to help protect them as well! If I missed any areas of concern please let me know. I hope this information was helpful and don't forget we offer 10% off to forum members with the code e90post. Take care! Greg @ DI |
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