[Glowin]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Like I said, vacuum lines are fine, and there are no boost leaks. If anything it's my oem turbos, cuz they are a 10/06 build date, with 105K miles, and almost 50 full track days.

As a side note, how are your Zimmerman Cross drilled Rotors holding up? How many track days do you have on them? Really impressed if you have had no cracking issues. Was going to avoid cross drilled rotors for that reason when I upgrade and go slotted, based on everyone's suggestions.

[enrita]

Originally Posted by Glowin

As a side note, how are your Zimmerman Cross drilled Rotors holding up? How many track days do you have on them? Really impressed if you have had no cracking issues. Was going to avoid cross drilled rotors for that reason when I upgrade and go slotted, based on everyone's suggestions.

drilled will crack. slotted much better choice. i am never gonna buy drilled rotors again. my stoptech cracked bad ..... now stock rear rotors with pagid RS19 and 0 problems

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Glowin

This is odd, I've had a similar issue as you in getting codes on track only with my Cobb, but I got a few other codes too. In my case, the car did go into limp mode, but I also had the 3100 code as well. Temps were around 85 to 90 degrees I'd say, so not cool like yours.

It happened last summer, when I took my stage 2+ car to the track, with the Cobb tune, and after just two laps, it went into limp mode. Could never figure out what it was. Car kept going into limp mode afterwards for a week or so, anytime I boosted more than 4/5 PSI, to the point I was convinced that I had a boost leak, but could find none.

Then all of a sudden it went away after a couple of weeks by itself, and has been driving fine for months afterwards, up to 18 PSI boost no problems. I've not tracked it since.

Another member with the exact same problem as me (he only got the codes when tracking his car) PM'd me after saying he was told by Cobb that their OTS maps code doesn't work well on cars with stiff wastegates on the track, and that's why after a few laps, it threw a limp code. He wasn't able to address it, without doing a Protune, so gave up and went back to Procede, and hasn't had any issues.

I'm hoping to avoid spending a few hundred on a Protune, and don't feel like going Procede again, so I need to figure out what's going on for sure.

Here's my post on it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726596

In my case, I'm lucky that it hasn't been able to cut power at the track, so I'm not concerned with the code throwing at all, I just want to find out why it isn't able to cut power with Cobb. I'm not at all frustrated with Cobb. In fact it's one of my top 3 bet mods, Wavetrac LSD, and Koni shocks being the other two.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Glowin

As a side note, how are your Zimmerman Cross drilled Rotors holding up? How many track days do you have on them? Really impressed if you have had no cracking issues. Was going to avoid cross drilled rotors for that reason when I upgrade and go slotted, based on everyone's suggestions.

SUPERB!! Had dozens of track days with them, and no issues whatsoever! I'm on my second pair, of rotors and pads. Used zimmerman since '09. Truly incredible, considering the price. The only note is that you have to get the z coat, to avoid the rotor hat rusting.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by enrita

drilled will crack. slotted much better choice. i am never gonna buy drilled rotors again. my stoptech cracked bad ..... now stock rear rotors with pagid RS19 and 0 problems

Cross Drilled rotors crack only when the holes are drilled in after manufacturing. Zimmermans are molded with the holes, at the time of manufacturing. Keep in mind Zimmermans are actually BMW "factory performance package" rotors. The exact same thing, except you are not paying the insane BMW mark up.

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

In my case, I'm lucky that it hasn't been able to cut power at the track, so I'm not concerned with the code throwing at all, I just want to find out why it isn't able to cut power with Cobb. I'm not at all frustrated with Cobb. In fact it's one of my top 3 bet mods, Wavetrac LSD, and Koni shocks being the other two.

What I was trying to say is that as you've pointed out, your issue is a software one, which mine seems to be as well, and the best theory I've had about it, was that the Cobb tune at the track can't handle cars with the stiffer wastegates.

I was floating this theory out there, in case you hadn't come across it, to see what you thought of it, and if it might apply to you.

[Killerfish2012]

Originally Posted by Glowin

What I was trying to say is that as you've pointed out, your issue is a software one, which mine seems to be as well, and the best theory I've had about it, was that the Cobb tune at the track can't handle cars with the stiffer wastegates.

I was floating this theory out there, in case you hadn't come across it, to see what you thought of it, and if it might apply to you.

I have a different therory. I don't think it's our waste gates at all, it's just how the cobb software works. It's only a partial flash tune, and doesn't have control over the engine management section of our software. Other full flash tunes seem to do a better job of this but they co$t more, and pale in comparison to the total package that cobb gives. In the engine management section, there are algorythms for how the ecu calculates boost (PID based), and also Compensation for engine temperature with increased heat (KTempMon). KtempMon for instance has some kind of algorthym that decreases engine power output for ever degree over 245F (oil temps. water temps=??). So even if you are runnin an aggressive cobb map with increased timing, as the car gets hotter at the track, and laps increase, you will have less power.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Killerfish2012

Cobb, I recently went to a track, which has 3 strightaways where speeds in excess of 150mph could be reached by high HP cars before braking. On the front straight, I would throw code 30FF, with the 100 octane race map, and stage 2+ aggressive, but only right after the shift into 5th gear @ just over 140mph. I didn't log this, but will do so when I visit this track again soon. Unlike in the past, I decided to continue racing even after the code was trown. It would seem that the ecu's ability to cut power after an engine malfunction code has been thrown has been eliminated by these two off the shelf tunes, as I was able to reach the same 145mph/140mph with the race map, and stage 2+ aggressive after the code was thrown. It appears at least from a power perspective that your tunes inhibit our ecu's engine torque, and load limiters, which is the reason for this effect, am I right? I'm asking because in the past with piggy back tunes on the stock ecu, when limp is triggered by one of these codes, at least 50% of the power was lost

so ive had this same problem last week and replaced my boost converters and it fixed the problem of the half engine light. i understand that you still hit boost afterwards and so was i but if you feel very carefully up in the high rpm range in 4th and 5th you should have felt some power drops.

whenever i did extremely long pulls say 5mph-150mph i would feel a slight power/boost drop in 3rd but more in 4th then limp in either top of 4th or 5th. so your converters are just not able to convert the pressure up that high since its going bad. so up in those high rpm ranges you arent making enough boost so its slightly cutting power but not fully.

so if your car is still able to hit boost in the lower rpms or not such high loads then there is no reason for your car to run in limp mode since your car is still making the boost.

only limp mode i had was when my wastegates would stay open at the track...cant remember the code but it was happening quite often and i think it was overboosting.

[Killerfish2012]

For those who were thinking it was my boost solenoids, check out post #144

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=114

[johmei]

I have the exact same symtoms in 4th-5th and have changed out all soft vac lines and both boost solenoids. Took the IC down and reinstalled along with Forge DVs and so on. Now getting a new Charge pipe but I guess I should change out the plastic parts as well. Run silicon vac lines all the way from oil filter to canisters (bypassing the plastic tubes under the cover)and change the 3 Ts (2 at solenoids and 1 at DVs). Then I have really changed out everything.
The solenoids did make a difference but still manage to get 30FF at times. Annoying code..

[JStang]

Originally Posted by johmei

I have the exact same symtoms in 4th-5th and have changed out all soft vac lines and both boost solenoids. Took the IC down and reinstalled along with Forge DVs and so on. Now getting a new Charge pipe but I guess I should change out the plastic parts as well. Run silicon vac lines all the way from oil filter to canisters (bypassing the plastic tubes under the cover)and change the 3 Ts (2 at solenoids and 1 at DVs). Then I have really changed out everything.
The solenoids did make a difference but still manage to get 30FF at times. Annoying code..

I was occasionally getting the 30FF when using the OTS E30 map. It had something to do with my WGDC. Rob should be able to shed some more light.

[johmei]

I'm running OTS E30 based map with increased scaler for E35, custom WG table, increased load and increased timing. I am installing a Aquamist kit once I get the new charge pipe etc. and will finally do that Pro tune/E-tune I bought back in April. However, I need to have a "non limping car" (if such 335 exist) first of all!

@JStang if you remember what the WGDC issue was please let me know. I have no trouble building boost but my WGs are quite sticky!

[JStang]

Originally Posted by johmei

I'm running OTS E30 based map with increased scaler for E35, custom WG table, increased load and increased timing. I am installing a Aquamist kit once I get the new charge pipe etc. and will finally do that Pro tune/E-tune I bought back in April. However, I need to have a "non limping car" (if such 335 exist) first of all!

@JStang if you remember what the WGDC issue was please let me know. I have no trouble building boost but my WGs are quite sticky!

I am not sure exactly what it was but contact Josh@Cobb

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by packinDSS

Great e85 calculator. http://www.intercepteft.com/calc.html

Sorry to raise this thread again, but this is a great calculator, and I came across this footnote on that page:

* Note: in colder areas of the country, the actual percent of E85 gets downgraded to 70% during winter months.

So what do you all do about that? I mean, how do you know how to use the calculator / chart below, if you don't know what the ethanol content in the E85 is?
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