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Swirl Flaps Delete Code?
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01-21-2020, 10:16 PM | #1 |
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Swirl Flaps Delete Code?
So I know the swirl flap delete has been beaten to death but I find it hard to believe that disconnecting the electrical connector to the flaps isn’t going to throw any codes at all. The post I’ve attached shows that they can throw a code.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1292508 |
01-22-2020, 08:14 AM | #2 |
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Yeah, if you leave the actuator motor unplugged, you'll get a fault. You want to remove the linkage between the motor and the flaps themselves
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01-28-2020, 10:27 PM | #3 |
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I'm having trouble removing the linkage bar from the manifold. I watched a video where he just pried the bar off which seems like what you should do but there seems to be rivets on the little metal piece that connects the rod to the swirl flaps. I seem to have to pry much harder than I want to. I really don't want to break anything.
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01-29-2020, 09:45 AM | #6 |
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01-29-2020, 10:12 AM | #7 |
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Are you sure about that? I tried this and the bottom screw heads hit the rod on their way out and aren't allowed to go any further.
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01-29-2020, 11:54 AM | #8 |
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remove the rod and flaps simultaneously. I've had intakes that had rivets (2013 X5) and other that didn't have rivets (2011 335d). Trust us, it's easy to get the flaps out despite the rivets.
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01-29-2020, 12:36 PM | #10 |
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01-29-2020, 02:52 PM | #11 |
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I've done this 4 or 5 times now. I'm sure. That rod will flex and move a bit so you should be able to get those screws out from around it. They aren't long. Or if that's too difficult, unscrew the screws as much as you can, then pry up the flaps to give yourself more clearance to unscrew further until they're out. It'll be fine.
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01-29-2020, 09:07 PM | #12 |
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Well I got the swirl flaps out and during installation of the blanks I found that one of the holes has stripped threads from the removal. Now I need to find a way to fix these plastic threads. I assume this manifold has to deal with high heat so any ideas? I was thinking of wrapping teflon tape around the screw but won't it degrade with the heat?
Last edited by e90Noobie; 01-29-2020 at 09:31 PM.. |
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01-30-2020, 01:19 AM | #13 |
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PTFE/teflon tape is fine to far higher temps than the manifold (nylon/polyamide) will be.
You could potentially drill the hole a little deeper, and use a longer screw? Check first to see if that's a possibility; I really don't know. |
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01-30-2020, 10:57 AM | #14 |
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01-30-2020, 01:16 PM | #15 |
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here goes. A side story but I think it possibly work for you too. The cowl is held on by similar self tapping screws. People have stripped those threads too. Mcmaster carr sells these brass inserts that accept an M5x0.8 screw. Said screws also sold my mcmaster. I used these on my cowl as a couple of the threads were starting to get squirrely. I sold another set to Bobby P. I will edit in the Mcmaster p/n after looking up the order. I don't know the specs of the screws that hold in the flaps. Compare that screw to a cowl screw and tell me if the idea is worth while. The cowl "tapped" holes have to be oversize drilled before pressing in the brass inserts. If there is not enough depth in the intake manifold to where the hole goes through, YOU CANNOT DO THIS. You don't want to chance the brass insert being eaten by your engine.
EDIT: I added a graphic showing the Mcmaster parts with the part numbers included. I'll try to be more clear on the warning. If the depth of where the stripped thread is more shallow than the length of the brass insert, this idea is a NOGO. Last edited by BB_cuda; 01-30-2020 at 01:25 PM.. |
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01-30-2020, 01:39 PM | #16 |
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An even simpler idea in keeping with KISS principle. Just use next larger size of self tapping screw. Like if its a #6 size, put in a number 8 size. Of course, I quoting American std screws but hopefully you see. I have never tried to buy metric spec self tapper screws. I'd take screw to h/w store and get something a butt hair bigger. Hopefully, you won't need to pilot drill for the larger size self tapper. Good luck.
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01-30-2020, 01:51 PM | #17 |
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Thank you for your responses. The first thing I’m going to do tonight is try wrapping some Teflon tape around the screw and hope that it snuggs up nicely. If this doesn’t work I will look into your ideas.
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01-30-2020, 02:01 PM | #18 |
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Remember there will be 20psi pushing the blank against the screw. It's not a crazy amount of pressure, but it needs to do more than just sit there
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01-30-2020, 02:17 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Edit: another idea I saw is to add a little bit of plastic JB Weld to the hole and insert the screw with Teflon and let the jb weld cure. Supposedly the jb weld won’t adhere to the Teflon and you can remove the screw, remove Teflon from screw, insert screw into hole with threads now made from jb weld. Last edited by e90Noobie; 01-30-2020 at 02:23 PM.. |
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01-30-2020, 02:21 PM | #20 |
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How long is a piece of string?
I can't say if it'll be OK. The others will hold fine, of course, because the screws are engaged in plastic. The stripped screw will just be relying on some more (very slippy) plastic wedged in the hole, so will hold far less strongly than the others. |
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01-30-2020, 05:00 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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