[Cruiser124]

08 328xi N51 80k

Wondering if I should replace pre cat 02? Under light throttle between 1500-2000rpm I am experiencing what I'd describe as engine shudder (first thought was torque converter until misfire codes appeared). I swapped coils on 1,2,3 to 4,5,6 codes came back to 1,2,3 misfire.

Also getting oil pressure warning on cold start (sitting overnight), goes away after shutting off and restarting and stays away throughout the day. No knocking or ticking but there is an unusual noise from engine bay that goes away after driving a couple miles, really hard to describe. Just bought the car from auction yesterday, so no records. Put about 200 miles on so far, and trying to work out the quirks

This code won't go away either CF17

[RocketSurgeon]

It certainly looks like you have an O2 sensor issue. Trace the wires all the way to the DME to make sure that the wiring is intact first, since lambda sensors are a little pricey. I can get you pinouts for the O2 sensor wiring if you want.
You also have code 2a87, which is exhaust VANOS fully retarded. Read SI B11 02 08 for more info on that issue. It could be anything from the oil filter cap, to bad VANOS solenoids, or a worn camshaft bearing ledge. Swapping the solenoids is a good test to see if the fault follows the solenoid to the intake (2a82).
The oil pressure issue is concerning, I would be really tempted to pull the oil pan off to make sure the engine didn't ingest a belt. That's one of the more common causes of oil pressure issues on the n52 and n54.
Pulling the oil pan is a pain, but not as bad as an RMS. I'm actually doing an oil pan on my own auction car this week.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

It certainly looks like you have an O2 sensor issue. Trace the wires all the way to the DME to make sure that the wiring is intact first, since lambda sensors are a little pricey. I can get you pinouts for the O2 sensor wiring if you want.
You also have code 2a87, which is exhaust VANOS fully retarded. Read SI B11 02 08 for more info on that issue. It could be anything from the oil filter cap, to bad VANOS solenoids, or a worn camshaft bearing ledge. Swapping the solenoids is a good test to see if the fault follows the solenoid to the intake (2a82).
The oil pressure issue is concerning, I would be really tempted to pull the oil pan off to make sure the engine didn't ingest a belt. That's one of the more common causes of oil pressure issues on the n52 and n54.
Pulling the oil pan is a pain, but not as bad as an RMS. I'm actually doing an oil pan on my own auction car this week.

Thanks rocketsurgeon always appreciate your replies. As we speak I am on the side of the road due to oil pressure light coming on while driving. I removed the electrical connector on the sensor at the housing and oil is leaking at the sensor and connector is covered in oil. I am assuming this is the cause of my oil pressure warning. My girlfriend is grabbing a new sensor at BMW and I am going to swap it out on the road. Hoping this will also take care of my vanos codes. No knocking and engine still sounds quiet.

Got misfires on 1,3,4,5,6 also this morning. Hoping it's related to oil pressure not operating vanos properly. I will report back shortly.

Printouts may be nice. I am waiting to here back from my service advisor to see if o2 will be covered under Sulev warranty. What a day!

Also I removed the oil filter cap yesterday and Noticed the filter was slightly collapsed and the stock inside the cap came off with the filter. It clips back into the cap, would this cause a problem?

Going to do oil and filter change today.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

It certainly looks like you have an O2 sensor issue. Trace the wires all the way to the DME to make sure that the wiring is intact first, since lambda sensors are a little pricey. I can get you pinouts for the O2 sensor wiring if you want.
You also have code 2a87, which is exhaust VANOS fully retarded. Read SI B11 02 08 for more info on that issue. It could be anything from the oil filter cap, to bad VANOS solenoids, or a worn camshaft bearing ledge. Swapping the solenoids is a good test to see if the fault follows the solenoid to the intake (2a82).
The oil pressure issue is concerning, I would be really tempted to pull the oil pan off to make sure the engine didn't ingest a belt. That's one of the more common causes of oil pressure issues on the n52 and n54.
Pulling the oil pan is a pain, but not as bad as an RMS. I'm actually doing an oil pan on my own auction car this week.

Really don't want to drop the pan either.. did that on my 335xi and man that took about as long as the RMS just want an easy fix :,

[nsjames]

328 has a GM transmission.

do a fluid and filter change. WHen the fluid sucks they get TC shudder.

I bought mine with 100K and it had a slight shudder on lockup. New fluid and filter fixed it and improved the shifts dramatically. It's been smooth for 25K miles now.

The oil pressure issue is concerning, and will probably require pulling the pan to have a look as mentioned.

[mxchris727]

That sounds like the oil filter pressure bypass; usually activated in cold mornings when the oil is thick. Check your oil filter and make sure that the plastic middle piece is there and that the filter hasn't collapsed.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by mxchris727

That sounds like the oil filter pressure bypass; usually activated in cold mornings when the oil is thick. Check your oil filter and make sure that the plastic middle piece is there and that the filter hasn't collapsed.

Like I said the plastic support tube is there but it did come out with the Filter. Still clips back into the cap so I don't know if it's worth replacing. The filter that was in there was AC Delco and was slightly collapsed.

I definitely plan to replace oil and filter though with OEM. The sensor brand appears to be TRW which I assume isn't OEM?

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by nsjames

328 has a GM transmission.

do a fluid and filter change. WHen the fluid sucks they get TC shudder.

I bought mine with 100K and it had a slight shudder on lockup. New fluid and filter fixed it and improved the shifts dramatically. It's been smooth for 25K miles now.

The oil pressure issue is concerning, and will probably require pulling the pan to have a look as mentioned.

Good to know a fluid change fixed the shudder. From what I've gathered seems to be somewhat common with the GM transmission. I was planning to do this and add the Shudder fix thinking TC could be the issue, but I'm going to address the misfire codes first and see if that helps. It's not super noticeable and otherwise shifts well.

Hoping my oil sensor will fix the warning, will post back

[retrace]

Hello guys! I have a problem with my e90 / 318d from 2006. Between 1500-1700 rpm i can feel a small vibration in the car (in steering wheel and gear box). Before 1500 and after 1700-1750 rpm the vibration is completly gone. This problem is present also when the car is stationary. Do you have any ideea what the problem might be?

[mxchris727]

Originally Posted by mxchris727

That sounds like the oil filter pressure bypass; usually activated in cold mornings when the oil is thick. Check your oil filter and make sure that the plastic middle piece is there and that the filter hasn't collapsed.

My apologies for missing your prior post. I would definitely change that filter ASAP before anything else; that may help with the oil pressure warning and noise. The misfires as others have said could be due to the O2 sensors. But, you really need to hook the car up to a dealer-level computer to get the full story.
When my car was misfiring due to shorted-out fuel injectors, the ISTA program ran the car through different cycles adjusting the RPMs, mixture, and VANOS settings. It concluded that the injectors were the fault based on the inputs. It's pretty cool watching these cars diagnose themselves this day and age.

[Cruiser124]

New sensor installed and no oil pressure warning after driving 30 miles home. Will see if the light stays off for cold start tomorrow, but feeling hopeful!

Cleared codes and will see which ones return.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by mxchris727

My apologies for missing your prior post. I would definitely change that filter ASAP before anything else; that may help with the oil pressure warning and noise. The misfires as others have said could be due to the O2 sensors. But, you really need to hook the car up to a dealer-level computer to get the full story.
When my car was misfiring due to shorted-out fuel injectors, the ISTA program ran the car through different cycles adjusting the RPMs, mixture, and VANOS settings. It concluded that the injectors were the fault based on the inputs. It's pretty cool watching these cars diagnose themselves this day and age.

How much for ISTA?

I have the BMW schwaben scan tool which I like for its portability and I believe it can do data logging for fueling, o2's and many other functions but quite honestly I don't know how to use all the feature and interpret the data. I assume ISTA would take some getting use to.

I'm going to see what I can get out of my dealer for a SULEV warranty. Reading through forums seems like there are people getting plugs, coils, VC gaskets, radiators etc and supposedly everything on this list should be covered

[nsjames]

if a faulty sender fixes it that will be great.

I wouldn't bother with any additives in the trans. Clean dex 6 is all it wants to work properly.
GM recommends 50K mile services for severe duty.

[Phyrexia]

Originally Posted by Cruiser124

How much for ISTA?

I had typed a post about how you can pirate the software and that they don't sell it to us as individuals and even how as a software dev myself, I don't feel as bad because they're not offering the software for sale to us as individuals or enthusiasts...

...But that ends up being bullshit. ISTA is between $90 and $180 and so I guess I'm'a need to buy a real copy.

http://rheingoldusa.com/

[labrador]

I would change the oil filter cap because yours has been messed with. The tube should not just fall out and it has a bypass valve. Yours may be missing and allowing dirty oil to flow past. And that may kill the camshaft ledges and you have a Vanos code.

Mann filters are OEM and that is what I use. Change the ATF filter and seal too. I used a 1/2 size garden plastic pipe about 8” long. Stick the threaded area against the seal and pry side ways, came out easy.

I thought OEM oxy sensors are Bosch.

Originally Posted by Cruiser124

Like I said the plastic support tube is there but it did come out with the Filter. Still clips back into the cap so I don't know if it's worth replacing. The filter that was in there was AC Delco and was slightly collapsed.

I definitely plan to replace oil and filter though with OEM. The sensor brand appears to be TRW which I assume isn't OEM?

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by labrador

I would change the oil filter cap because yours has been messed with. The tube should not just fall out and it has a bypass valve. Yours may be allowing dirty oil to flow past. And that may kill the camshaft ledges and you have a Vanos code.

I thought OEM oxy sensors are Bosch.

Ended up replacing it. Got home after 30 mile drive without issue. Started the car 2 hours later and oil pressure light pops up :/ I could also hear quite a bit of rattling from the cap while idling. Only time will tell but I sure hope that light stays off.

[labrador]

Edited my post, yes just change it, and search up on camshaft ledge wear.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by labrador

Edited my post, yes just change it, and search up on camshaft ledge wear.

Thank you for your input. I picked up OEM oil pressure sensor, cap, and filter at BMW today. So now all those items have been replaced.

I think you're correct on Bosch o2, I was referring to the oil pressure sensor Brand TRW which I now know is OEM because it is in fact stamped BMW. Production date 2-08. I also noticed there are a few revisions for this part.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if a faulty sender fixes it that will be great.

I wouldn't bother with any additives in the trans. Clean dex 6 is all it wants to work properly.
GM recommends 50K mile services for severe duty.

Light popped back up. Installed new cap, we'll see what happens.

I was leery of the additives but I thought I read somewhere it was an approved method by BMW? Something like Additive first, then TC, then transmission if that didn't fix? I could be wrong but if I do change fluid I'll probably skip the additive. Never really been a fan of those kinds of products.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

I had typed a post about how you can pirate the software and that they don't sell it to us as individuals and even how as a software dev myself, I don't feel as bad because they're not offering the software for sale to us as individuals or enthusiasts...

...But that ends up being bullshit. ISTA is between $90 and $180 and so I guess I'm'a need to buy a real copy.

http://rheingoldusa.com/

Oh gotcha, well that's good to know. Thank you!

[labrador]

Maybe try an ATF drain and refill just to see. I would not use additives. Takes about 4 qts IIRC Dexron VI if you have the GM without pan drop. So get 5-6 qts just in case.

Not sure TRW is OEM pressure sensor. I see $4.52 Rein which reboxes lots of parts for BMW.

Does the engine have ticking noise?

Originally Posted by Cruiser124

Light popped back up. Installed new cap, we'll see what happens.

I was leery of the additives but I thought I read somewhere it was an approved method by BMW? Something like Additive first, then TC, then transmission if that didn't fix? I could be wrong but if I do change fluid I'll probably skip the additive. Never really been a fan of those kinds of products.

[Cruiser124]

Originally Posted by labrador

Maybe try an ATF drain and refill just to see. I would not use additives. Takes about 4 qts IIRC Dexron VI if you have the GM without pan drop. So get 5-6 qts just in case.

Not sure TRW is OEM pressure sensor. I see $4.52 Rein which reboxes lots of parts for BMW.

Does the engine have ticking noise?

My plan is to address the misfire codes first. May not even be torque converter shudder I'm experiencing. I like the idea of replacing the fluid but quite honestly I bought the car to resell and don't want to over investment on parts that aren't really needed, but I certainly need to fix The oil pressure problem.

TRW was the old sensor. New sensor is FTP brand. Both are genuine BMW.

No ticking. This is one of the quietest e90s Out of the 5 I've owned. I made a thread a couple weeks ago about excessive ticking on my last one, but besides the noise that car ran perfect.

If I see pressure warning again I'm going to hook up my mechanical gauge before dropping the oil pan.