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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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09-30-2010, 06:35 AM | #1233 |
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good day !!! have been reading a gazillion posts .... and im sure that i have read the answer at least that many times ... im picking up my first BMW this friday ... a 07 328i ... and its "sapphire black" .... i would say that im a "regualar" driver ... work .. commute ... evenings out ... not a "showing" kinda person ... although i do wish to step up the look of the new ride .... have read many pros and cons about this color ... more pros than cons ... the condition of the car is better than average ... but i want to take it to the next level ... my experience in taking it to this level .???? well ...not much past dumping out the buckets .... after the wash !! might you point me in the right direction ??? threads i could read about this color ... ??? your thoughts ???? i live in florida ... were coming out of the rainy season ... it wont be so deadly hot anymore .... thx
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09-30-2010, 11:48 AM | #1234 | |
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The first thing you'll want to do is invest in quality washing and drying products and learn the proper washing and drying techniques. Swirls and other imperfections typically occur due to improper washing and drying techniques or using dirty or ineffective equipment. A good starting point for you would be this wash kit paired up with a couple of 5 gallon buckets if you don't already have them. If you want to ease into detailing without investing in a buffer to remove swirls but still want to add more depth and gloss than you currently have, I'd recommend going a glaze then topping it with a sealant. This is easy as applying both products thinly and removing them with some quality microfiber towels. I'd suggest going with Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze then topping that coat with some Blackfire Wet Diamond. That would cover your paint, beyond that, you'll want to pick up some stuff for your glass, wheels and tires, and interior. Some of my go-to products for those steps are... Chemical Guys Window Clean Optimum Protectant Plus (cleans and protects vinyl, rubber, leather and plastic surfaces) Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner (great degreaser and works outstanding on cleaning carpets, tires, wheel wells, engine bays and virtually any other stained surface when diluted properly) Poorboy's World Bold 'n Bright Gel That should be a start for you. If you have any other questions or would like any other suggestions for specific areas of your car, please do not hesitate to ask. George |
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09-30-2010, 07:28 PM | #1235 | |
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Thought: Kill the bacteria...kill the smell. There's no stain. I took care of that. Everything's fine until the car is shut up in the sun. What do you think? |
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10-01-2010, 08:59 AM | #1236 | |
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From there you can maintain with regular cleanings using something like Chemical Guys Fabric Clean which will help clean and deoderize. Appreciate the update, keep us posted how the extracting goes. Good luck! |
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10-01-2010, 09:00 AM | #1237 | |
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10-03-2010, 07:44 PM | #1238 |
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10-08-2010, 02:09 PM | #1240 |
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10-08-2010, 08:08 PM | #1242 |
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A good chemical polish is what I typically turn to. Something like Klasse All In One is a great option to remove oxidation and protect it with a sealant in one step.
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10-13-2010, 09:01 AM | #1243 | |
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Thanks. |
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10-13-2010, 09:16 AM | #1244 | |
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Hope this helps clear things up. |
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10-13-2010, 09:20 AM | #1245 | |
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Thanks. |
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10-15-2010, 10:55 AM | #1246 |
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Sounds good, keep us posted how things turn out. Make sure you give it some elbow grease and a couple applications if needed.
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10-19-2010, 07:49 AM | #1247 |
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Hey DI,
I bought some Menzerna Super Intensive Polish for my E90, what pad should I be using to get rid of the spider marks with my Porter Cable? I have 3 pads, 1 blue, 1 white and 1 orange. I have purchased the Menzerna Super Finish polish to finish after using the SIP stuff. Is this a good combination? Or should I be using something else? I also have a small bottle of M205 from Meguiers. I also noticed some corosion on my paint, like darken'ed spots which I cannot get out by washing. I noticed that if I use the clay bar with a bit more force I am able to get it out. Please let me know what you think. I have a Titanium Silver, MY2007. |
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10-20-2010, 12:55 PM | #1248 | |
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Polishing should take care of those spots if claying was removing them with some effort, or simply continue to clay to remove them just use more lube and more passes rather than forcing it. Hope this helps. George |
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10-20-2010, 12:59 PM | #1249 |
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Okay here's my situation.
I just bought a new 328i xdrive with black saphire metallic paint. The dealer asked me if i wanted a sealant, he said it would protect it for over a year. I didn't know anything about car detailing before i went on this forum, so i took it. It cost me 300$ for the sealant....obviously i got owned by them. Because not only it didn't last very long, but also i washed the car and i might have rub the a little bit too hard with the towel. The result, swirl marks and angel hairs marks (which was a little bit of my fault since i never washed my car myself before). I brought it to someone i know who works in a carwash and he said that it was the clear coat that had marks on it. Now i wanted to know, what should i do? I'm planning to wash my car (dawn or car shampoo?), claying it (because clearly they didn't do it before putting the sealant over, the car feels grindy). Then what? Waxing or polishing then waxing? Or simply wait 'til spring then doing the whole process? |
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10-25-2010, 11:02 PM | #1251 |
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The one absolute biggest difference is price.
You'll be hard pressed to tell the difference unless the vehicle is properly prepped. Even if properly prepped, you'll experience minor differences. This isn't all bad. A Rolex doesn't tell time better than a $100 dollar watch after all. Car people are passionate about their cars and often times don't mind paying a little more for an upscale product. Even a $200 wax is nothing compared to the cost of a car. |
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10-25-2010, 11:07 PM | #1252 |
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Great, that's what i wanted to hear! So which one do you suggest if i go to a local store? It's kind of hard to order stuff from US website. The stuff i can get at the Canadian tire is Meguiar, turtle wax, autoglym and mother's. Any recommandation?
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10-26-2010, 02:05 AM | #1253 |
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^ The problem with over-the-counter waxes is that they're developed for over-the-counter types of people. These waxes can often times have cleaners in them (because most people don't clay their cars) or abrasives in them (because most people don't polish their cars). This is part of the reason they can stain trim, be harder to work with, receive no benefit in attempting to layer, and give "mmmeehh" results.
Higher dollar waxes most often are designed to be used on a well prepped vehicle. Their only goals are gloss and protection. Nothing else. Because they don't have abrasives, you can layer them (to a point), and are usually easier to work with than OTC products. So please keep in mind that while the price is certainly a huge difference, waxes can certainly have other differences as well. Not all waxes are created equally, or created for the same type of use. I can't say how good many OTC waxes are because I don't use them. Being in Canada, you might want to try using a good sealant for the higher durability and better layering ability anyways with the Winter fast approaching. Sealants like Blackfire, PowerLock, JetSeal109, etc are all proven winners, and with a few layers on your paint - can potentially make it through the coming weather. No OTC wax/sealant is likely to get you even close because of their formulation. |
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