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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Maintenance/repair after 100K



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      05-16-2015, 02:29 AM   #1
BMSE92_Harry
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Maintenance/repair after 100K

For those of you that have a Bimmer past 100K mileage, what are some of the repair or maintenance that you had to do for preventative maintenance, or simply broke and had to be replaced? List the car you have whether if it's 330i, 325i, 335i.. etc.
State whether if you perform a DIY and how much,
or if you had a shop perform the work and how much.

My starter went today... (extended warranty through 3rd party- covered from dealer)

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      05-16-2015, 02:46 AM   #2
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T stat, water pump, battery, eccentric shaft sensor, and valve cover gasket.
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      05-16-2015, 03:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZhengHai View Post
T stat, water pump, battery, eccentric shaft sensor, and valve cover gasket.
Good list.
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      05-16-2015, 03:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Game
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZhengHai View Post
T stat, water pump, battery, eccentric shaft sensor, and valve cover gasket.
Good list.
Haha thank you. And driver door lock actuator. Window regulator is going out too but nothing major.
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      05-16-2015, 04:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ZhengHai View Post
T stat, water pump, battery, eccentric shaft sensor, and valve cover gasket.
Did the valve cover gasket and battery prior to 100k. But waterpump and T stat is still fine. Did you do the work yourself?
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      05-16-2015, 05:51 AM   #6
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I suggest to put money aside in advance every month. Since my car is out of warranty, I budgeted 150$/mo for all maintenance & repairs that would have been covered by the initial 50K BMW warranty plan. 50 months later my reserve is almost dry.

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But waterpump and T stat is still fine.
Ticking bomb. Search for this. It fails on the road, no pre-notice.

Well unless you check BMW codes regularly.... mine started to throw WP related codes a few weeks ago. I had it replaced with TS preventively... 1400$. I bought myself peace of mind.
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      05-16-2015, 06:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrychiu012
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZhengHai View Post
T stat, water pump, battery, eccentric shaft sensor, and valve cover gasket.
Did the valve cover gasket and battery prior to 100k. But waterpump and T stat is still fine. Did you do the work yourself?
Indeed I do
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      05-16-2015, 07:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintor View Post
I suggest to put money aside in advance every month. Since my car is out of warranty, I budgeted 150$/mo for all maintenance & repairs that would have been covered by the initial 50K BMW warranty plan. 50 months later my reserve is almost dry.



Ticking bomb. Search for this. It fails on the road, no pre-notice.

Well unless you check BMW codes regularly.... mine started to throw WP related codes a few weeks ago. I had it replaced with TS preventively... 1400$. I bought myself peace of mind.
You reserves would be flush with cash if you would roll up your sleeves and turn your own wrenches. Water pump/thermostat is $500.
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      05-16-2015, 07:34 AM   #9
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I posted this yesterday in another thread. I'm past 200K and almost to 300K on my 2006 325i. I hit 200K in January 2013 and posted a thread on it with much detail on maintenance and costs. I DIY everything. Here's a quick rundown of maintenance to 280K:

Maintenance-----

Engine Oil Changes: 17.K per change from mile 0 to 221,000. I now use a 10K OCI schedule. 19 total changes

Trans oil Changes (manual trans): 1st - 89K, 2nd - 159K, 3rd - 265K

Diff oil changes: 1st - 77K, 2nd - 159K, 3rd - 265K

Coolant changes: 1st - 77K, 2nd - 149K, 3rd - 236K

Brakes: 1st - 75K, 2nd - 185K, 3rd - close...

Brake flushes: every 2 years

Power steering flush: 1st - 151K, 2nd - 264K (not a required maintenance item)

engine air filters: approx. every 45K

Plugs: 1st - 98K, 2nd - 195K

VANOS Solenoids - 1st clean & swap @ 146K, 2nd - 195K, 3rd - 260K

Coolant hoses (all 9 of them) @ 236K

Suspension: overhaul at 182K - w/M3 thrust arms w/ alignment. 2nd alignment at 264K (finally was done correctly)

Battery: 159K

Tires average about 35K per set w/rotation about every 5,000 to 7,000 miles.


Repairs-------

AC Compressor - 85K
O2 Sensor - Bank 2 Sensor 1 (upstream), other 3 are original @282K.
T-Stat - 134K
Waterpump - 149K
OFHG - 161K. Needs a 2nd one at 282K
Driveshaft center bearing and guibo - 249K

FWIW my total maintenance and repair costs including an estimate of my DIY labor is $28.7K for 282,000 miles. Do the math and it comes out to about 10 cents per mile for maintenance and repair. Throw in gas cost and it's about 33 cents per mile. I've got a lift and air at home in my garage, so a lot of the maintenance and repairs are much easier than with just jackstands. Doing the hoses is one maintenance item that would be difficult DIYing with jackstands.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

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      05-17-2015, 08:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I
FWIW my total maintenance and repair costs including an estimate of my DIY labor is $28.7K for 282,000 miles.
Not that it changes anything significantly in your unique experience, but technically I would deduct the initial 50K miles (you probably paid nothing).

On my car, 6500$ over 85K miles doesn't look so bad. Now consider 6500$ over 35K miles (85K-50K) and the picture is quite different...
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      05-17-2015, 08:58 AM   #11
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100k Maintenance

I have 111,000 on my 07 335i

I am assuming you have had your plugs done at 90k, since they are supposed to be replaced every 45k

These are in no specific order

1) belts and pulleys - ECS Tuning has a kit for $150.00

2) replace coils - $175 on Amazon

3) Replace all fluids

A. Oil & filter - $50.00
1) use an engine flush
B. Trans & filter pan - $215.00
1) replace megatronic sleeve while your in there
C. Differential fluid - $15.00
D. Power steering - $15.00
E. Brake fluid - $40.00
D. Coolant - $75.00

4) Replace cabin filter - $25.00
5) clean k & n filter - $10.00

6) clean intake valves (old fashioned wire brush gun kit & seafoam intake cleaner) - $60.00

7) replace the oil housing filter gasket, intake gaskets and throttle body gaskets as part of step # 6 - $100.00.

8) if you have not already done so, replace the water pump and thermostat - $500.00.

A) this is a biggie and you are on borrowed time after 75,000 miles.

9) inspect the rear main seal

10) inspect the valve cover gasket

It's only a matter of time on # 9 & 10. Number 9 most likely can't be done as a DIY unless you have a lift and engine supports; you have to drop a lot of the subframe to get to it,

This should get you to 150,000 miles issue free. I would replace every fluid every 50k from the 100,000 point forward.

$$$ figures are based on DIY numbers and membership to an oil site like Amsoil for example where you can get 25% off, if you purchase a membership.
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      05-17-2015, 09:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
100k Maintenance

I have 111,000 on my 07 335i

I am assuming you have had your plugs done at 90k, since they are supposed to be replaced every 45k

These are in no specific order

1) belts and pulleys - ECS Tuning has a kit for $150.00

2) replace coils - $175 on Amazon

3) Replace all fluids

A. Oil & filter - $50.00
1) use an engine flush
B. Trans & filter pan - $215.00
1) replace megatronic sleeve while your up there
C. Differential fluid - $15.00
D. Power steering - $15.00
E. Brake fluid - $40.00
D. Coolant - $75.00

4) Replace cabin filter - $25.00
5) clean k & n filter - $10.00

6) clean intake valves (old fashioned wire brush gun kit & seafoam intake cleaner) - $60.00

7) replace the oil housing filter gasket, intake gaskets and throttle body gaskets as part of step # 6 - $100.00.

8) if you have not already done so, replace the water pump and thermostat - $500.00.

A) this is a biggie and you are on borrowed time after 75,000 miles.

9) inspect the rear main seal

10) inspect the valve cover gasket

It's only a matter of time on # 9 & 10. Number 9 most likely can't be done as a DIY unless you have a lift and engine supports; you have to drop a lot of the subframe to get to it,

This should get you to 150,000 miles issue free. I would replace every fluid every 50k from the 100,000 point forward.

$$$ figures are based on DIY numbers and membership to an oil site like Amsoil for example where you can get 25% off, if you purchase a membership.
Nice! When did you replace your water pump? Im at 68k, same year as you. Did you diy? I check my codes often, any warnings water pump throws out?
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      05-17-2015, 11:31 AM   #13
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Mike Miller maintenance schedule. Generally regarded as a good way to maintain a long-life BMW. Most of what has been said here corresponds with his recommendations.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/attac...5&d=1403115956
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      05-17-2015, 11:43 AM   #14
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Mike miller is full of shit..

Anyway..

I am just about to 100k

1-50k Free from BMW

50-100k

Oil changes every 15k miles at 79 dollars a pop 316 dollars
Control arms 150 dollars Meyle HD around 85k
One air filter 20 bucks
One Cabin filter 20 bucks
NGK Spark plugs at 97k... 23 dollars
Rear pads around 60k 230 dollars. Way too much stupid ass shop
Front pads and rotors around 90k Meyle Rotors 35 each and hawk pads set and senors 69 dollars. Learned my less not to pay people to do stuff for me.

889 dolars.. Damn that is cheaper. Would have been into the thousands if I paid someone to do those rotors, control arms and spark plugs.

In all fairness I suppose I should mention I paid 99 dollars for wiper blades once and around 120 dollars in lift time over the course of the car. So right around 1000 bucks if you include that. Oh and 130 for brake fluid flush. Saw no difference so I am letting the brake fluid flushes ride for a few years now.
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      05-17-2015, 12:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
100k Maintenance

I have 111,000 on my 07 335i

I am assuming you have had your plugs done at 90k, since they are supposed to be replaced every 45k

These are in no specific order

1) belts and pulleys - ECS Tuning has a kit for $150.00

2) replace coils - $175 on Amazon

3) Replace all fluids

A. Oil & filter - $50.00
1) use an engine flush
B. Trans & filter pan - $215.00
1) replace megatronic sleeve while your up there
C. Differential fluid - $15.00
D. Power steering - $15.00
E. Brake fluid - $40.00
D. Coolant - $75.00

4) Replace cabin filter - $25.00
5) clean k & n filter - $10.00

6) clean intake valves (old fashioned wire brush gun kit & seafoam intake cleaner) - $60.00

7) replace the oil housing filter gasket, intake gaskets and throttle body gaskets as part of step # 6 - $100.00.

8) if you have not already done so, replace the water pump and thermostat - $500.00.

A) this is a biggie and you are on borrowed time after 75,000 miles.

9) inspect the rear main seal

10) inspect the valve cover gasket

It's only a matter of time on # 9 & 10. Number 9 most likely can't be done as a DIY unless you have a lift and engine supports; you have to drop a lot of the subframe to get to it,

This should get you to 150,000 miles issue free. I would replace every fluid every 50k from the 100,000 point forward.

$$$ figures are based on DIY numbers and membership to an oil site like Amsoil for example where you can get 25% off, if you purchase a membership.
Nice! When did you replace your water pump? Im at 68k, same year as you. Did you diy? I check my codes often, any warnings water pump throws out?
Mine went to 108,000 miles. Yes, I DIY the water pump. Bav auto has a really nice video on it. The only thing I would change is taking out the fan and innercooler. I drained all the coolant fluid and went new. I used a 50/50 mix of Amsoil and distilled water plus 8oz of Amsoil coolant booster per gallon.

As far as warnings or codes for a water pump. Nope. It just goes.
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      05-17-2015, 12:28 PM   #16
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This was what happened on my E46 (purchased new, Euro deliver) between 90k and 140k miles when I sold it.

Repairs
  • front bearings 88.7
  • belts 88.7
  • dme camshaft sensor 90.8
  • fuel pump 100.7
  • water pump 114.7
  • Thermostat 114.7
  • oil level sensor 114.7
  • valve cover gasket 114.7
  • radiator hoses 114.7
  • alternator idler pulley 114.7
  • oil filter gasket 127.9
  • windshield washer pump 127.9
  • a/c tensioner 127.9
  • power steering hose 127.9
  • power steering hose from tank 127.9
  • power steering hose from cooler 127.9
  • radiator expansion tank 133.9
  • CCV 133.9



Routine Maintenance
  • coolant flush 88.7
  • Pads, rotor, sensors 100.7
  • brake flush 114.7
  • coolant flush 114.7
  • fuel filter 114.7
  • spark plugs 114.7
  • Pads, rotor, sensors 133.9
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      05-17-2015, 04:15 PM   #17
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Efthreeoh,

Fantastic mileage. I may have seen you post it elsewhere but what oil are you running?

How much longer (how many more miles) do you plan on driving her?
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      05-18-2015, 05:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintor View Post
Not that it changes anything significantly in your unique experience, but technically I would deduct the initial 50K miles (you probably paid nothing).

On my car, 6500$ over 85K miles doesn't look so bad. Now consider 6500$ over 35K miles (85K-50K) and the picture is quite different...
It doesn't change anything because I did not count the cost of the BMW provided maintenance (that we all just pay in advance anyway - so it not really "free"). Here's the maintenance and repair costs for the first 50,000 miles. I did an oil change myself at 29,950 just to check the accuracy of the e-dipstick. My maintenance/repair costs up to 89,000 miles was $6,615 DIY maintenance; the estimated price for my DIY labor was $2,135, so total $8,750. However, $2,400 of that total is a AC repair performed by a BMW dealer.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 05-18-2015 at 05:45 AM..
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      05-18-2015, 06:04 AM   #19
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Add shocks to the list too. Replaced mine recently close to 100K. They had not leaked oil yet, but one was about to burst, big rusty bulge on top. All four were not functioning well.
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      05-18-2015, 06:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNS View Post
Efthreeoh,

Fantastic mileage. I may have seen you post it elsewhere but what oil are you running?

How much longer (how many more miles) do you plan on driving her?
I've used BMW's OE oil and filter from the beginning. I've not yet used the new BMW oil from Shell.

I'm planning to take her to 300,000 just to say I did, and then we'll see. The car is really running great at 282K. It actually scares me on how good the reliability has been since hitting 250K (knock on wood). My original goal was 200K, which is my goal for any car I buy. I expect to get 250K out of a BMW, so when 250K comes up I start looking for a replacement. When the drivetrain vibration showed up in February 2014 (241,000 miles), I thought it was going to be soon over. I threw a guibo and drive shaft center bearing at it. But it took 8 weeks to get the parts thanks to BMW's screw up of changing logistics platforms, which delayed some parts deliveries for a few months, so by the time the parts came in and I installed them 8,000 miles later, the vibration had somewhat subsided and the new parts didn't really help.

The only other concern is oil consumption is going up; it's about 5,000 per quart now, which is down from about 12,000 per quart a 100,000 miles ago. The problem is I suspect it's either the oil separator system is not working correctly and I'm burning it, or the e-dipstick is not accurate since the oil life monitor portion of the system no longer works.

Now that BMW has dropped a naturally aspirated I6 and makes it really difficult to test drive a car with a manual transmission, I have no interest in a new 3-Series anymore. That plus the stupid programming of the oil life monitor to go defunct at 186,000. As a backup to the E90 I bought a low-mileage '08 Z4 3.0si Coupe (same basic drivetrain as my E90) in December that I drive a few days a week.

Apologies for the long reply.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      05-18-2015, 08:15 AM   #21
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Subbed. Interesting thread for people to chime in on.
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      05-18-2015, 09:07 AM   #22
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08 335xi, has the following done:
Major:
Radiator replaced at aroung 70k miles (jacking accident, not because of malfunction.)
Tstat, waterpump replaced at around 120K miles
Transmission mechatronic sleeves at around 120K miles
starter replaced at around 180K miles

Maintenance:
oil change every 4-5k miles
spark plugs every 2k miles
coolant flush, transfer case fluid change, air/cabin filters, brake fluid change....etc.

Car currently at around 189k miles. Other than the parts replaced above everything is original. Car tuned with Cobb stage 1 aggressive since 70K miles.
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