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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > After spending $2500, now battery?



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      10-08-2015, 10:20 AM   #1
corsotx10
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After spending $2500, now battery?

I bought the car not long ago and have since replaced starter, water pump, thermo, tires and oil filter gasket recently.

So, the battery seems to be original according to the 2nd owner. After reading in the forum, it should be around 14.5v. The hidden menu voltage rating under load is at 13.5-13.7v. However, the original battery does seem to be working fine.

Now, I like to change the battery and I am confused with what type of battery do I have. I don't feel like towing the car.

If I do need to replace the battery. I prefer to get the same AH rating so I do not need to code/program. I like to do the register myself to save some $$$. I have this Bavarian tool from the previous owner.

1) AGM or non-AGM? Some say 2006 has the WHITE AGM
2) Can I use this tool to register the battery?
3) Battery suggestion?

Thank you so much.
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      10-08-2015, 11:24 AM   #2
John 070
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imho just get the same OEM battery. White is not AGM, black is. Rather than monkey around, I paid the dealer $280. Yes, that is overpriced, but figure they give you a loaner and the part used to be $199 list (not sure today, this was 2011 I think)...
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      10-08-2015, 11:49 AM   #3
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AGM or Non-AGM, it doesn't matter. Just replace like for like, both or sold at most major auto part stores and even Walmart.

There's not need to register the battery. Registering my prolong the life of the battery but in reality the extra duration you might get is not worth the hassle since its relatively cheap to replace the battery.
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      10-08-2015, 11:51 AM   #4
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No, that fault code reader won't register the battery. You need BMW coding software and cable.

Changing the battery doesn't throw a fault code. The software keeps track of the age of the battery, registering resets the usage clock. On the E60's and I'm sure its the same with E9X, the car also monitors the battery voltage and charges it accordingly etc. Thats why the car can throw a low battery warning.
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      10-08-2015, 12:38 PM   #5
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You don't like the age of the battery, but if you have a 330 and this is the original battery, it is probably past the time for a new one. 13V is too low.

You have a conventional battery, most likely size H6 based on the 720 CCA value in your picture.

You can get this battery at any autoparts store and several will install it for free. While it is a good idea to register the battery, don't put off getting a new battery just because you can't register it. You don't want to get stranded.

As long as the battery is the same size / type, nothing drastic will happen. It is a good idea to register the battery to get long life out of the new battery.
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      10-08-2015, 12:58 PM   #6
ctuna
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The alternator voltage should be around 14.5

The alternator voltage should be around 14.5
for a lead acid battery . If the resting voltage of the battery
is 12 volts or under after sitting overnight its in need
of replacement. 6 years is about the average life on the stock
lead acid battery.
How does the age of the battery effect the alternator voltage unless
it is about short out?
I have a interstate MTP 49/h8 in my car now for about 3 years.
I had the same one as in the picture to start with.
There are a number of things that reset the battery I think the
Bav tool is one but its not that thing you are showing.
Coding setup , Carly app, BMW logger.

Last edited by ctuna; 10-08-2015 at 01:04 PM..
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      10-08-2015, 04:15 PM   #7
sk55
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here cheat sheat on the battery... so don't have to spend hours googling this battery replacement like I did.

I would go AGM... its not as heavy...you won't get crud on your terminal.. better cold starts...

I am in IT go with the better battery technology, I got lead acid in datacenters that freakin go bad in a year or 2... that's like $3000 UPS... in freakin 68 degree climate controlled datacenter...

lead acids sucks... just my 2cents.

goto autozone, I think I got duralast platinum... 3 yr new batter replacement...
I liked that warranty...

then you get iPhone bmw carly app.... which can program/code and register your new battery...

you need amazon wifi dongle for it...

10 min tops programming with carly... dealer charge 300-400 to code it if you change to AGM or different capacity..
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      10-08-2015, 04:16 PM   #8
sk55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Series View Post
AGM or Non-AGM, it doesn't matter. Just replace like for like, both or sold at most major auto part stores and even Walmart.

There's not need to register the battery. Registering my prolong the life of the battery but in reality the extra duration you might get is not worth the hassle since its relatively cheap to replace the battery.

Walmart batteries suck... google search.
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      10-08-2015, 05:09 PM   #9
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I bought the autozone H8 DLG battery 5 year warranty, 900 Cold Cranking Amps, 1000 Cranking Amps. Had it coded and registered for $20. Has been good for almost 2 years.
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      10-08-2015, 05:20 PM   #10
corsotx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robthewrench View Post
You don't like the age of the battery, but if you have a 330 and this is the original battery, it is probably past the time for a new one. 13V is too low.

You have a conventional battery, most likely size H6 based on the 720 CCA value in your picture.

You can get this battery at any autoparts store and several will install it for free. While it is a good idea to register the battery, don't put off getting a new battery just because you can't register it. You don't want to get stranded.

As long as the battery is the same size / type, nothing drastic will happen. It is a good idea to register the battery to get long life out of the new battery.
Autozone website gave me the option of H8-DLG and H6-DLG. I am from Texas so I am not worried about the cold climate. What's your suggestion? These threads about batteries spook me out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The alternator voltage should be around 14.5
for a lead acid battery . If the resting voltage of the battery
is 12 volts or under after sitting overnight its in need
of replacement. 6 years is about the average life on the stock
lead acid battery.
How does the age of the battery effect the alternator voltage unless
it is about short out?
I have a interstate MTP 49/h8 in my car now for about 3 years.
I had the same one as in the picture to start with.
There are a number of things that reset the battery I think the
Bav tool is one but its not that thing you are showing.
Coding setup , Carly app, BMW logger.
If you have the same battery as mine. According to robthewrench, it might be a H6 battery. Would it matter if you replace it with group H8 battery, like you did? Also, did you register or code it?

Also, I found out that your battery is rated at 105AH which is more than 90aH.

Quote:
Originally Posted by climax_e92 View Post
I bought the autozone H8 DLG battery 5 year warranty, 900 Cold Cranking Amps, 1000 Cranking Amps. Had it coded and registered for $20. Has been good for almost 2 years.
Why do you have to code it if it is almost the same rating?

Also, how can I find the AH rating from autozone?

Last edited by corsotx10; 10-08-2015 at 05:25 PM..
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      10-08-2015, 05:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsotx10 View Post
So, the battery seems to be original according to the 2nd owner. After reading in the forum, it should be around 14.5v. The hidden menu voltage rating under load is at 13.5-13.7v. However, the original battery does seem to be working fine. .
With engine off, and nothing turned on, the battery resting voltage ought to be about 12.6V or just under...12.2-12.4V from a battery indicates it is only about 50% charged.
With the engine on, the alternator and voltage regulator should provide about 1.35-14.6V when charging. This does not reflect the battery condition per se, it merely is the alternator and voltage regulator are doing what they is supposed to do!

The claim that 'AGM weighs less' is not necessarily true, if you compare Interstate FLA vs. AGM, the AGM is heavier! An example of one of those generalizations that is not always true.

'Registration' tells the battery management unit that you have a new battery, so it alters the charge profile to suit a new battery rather than to suit an older battery.
'Coding' tells the car what type of battery (AGM is managed differently from FLA, in terms of charge and float voltage), and the capacity of the battery...to avoid coding, replace with a similar type and capacity of battery.

Last edited by Wilt; 10-08-2015 at 05:58 PM..
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      10-08-2015, 06:09 PM   #12
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You have a lead acid battery. See here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...99#61217586962

According to Exide's application guide, they call for an H6/Group 48 battery for 2006 E90s. But everything else I can find seems to say that that's wrong and all E90s should take H8/Group 49 batteries. So you should be fine with an H8.

The Autozone H8 is 72Ah. Your current one is 90Ah. You can get away with installing a battery with a higher capacity, but if you install one with lower it's recommended that you recode the car for it.

Home Depot sells Exide batteries, but you often have to special order them. Exide's L5/49X is about $120 and has 107 Ah. Bosch has an H8 with the same reserve capacity so I'd assume it's about the same Ah.

I would highly suggest registering the new battery either way. If you have a soldering iron, there are cables you can get on eBay for ~$10 that you can use to register it. PM me if you want details.
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      10-08-2015, 06:24 PM   #13
corsotx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkasson View Post
You have a lead acid battery. See here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...99#61217586962

According to Exide's application guide, they call for an H6/Group 48 battery for 2006 E90s. But everything else I can find seems to say that that's wrong and all E90s should take H8/Group 49 batteries. So you should be fine with an H8.

The Autozone H8 is 72Ah. Your current one is 90Ah. You can get away with installing a battery with a higher capacity, but if you install one with lower it's recommended that you recode the car for it.

Home Depot sells Exide batteries, but you often have to special order them. Exide's L5/49X is about $120 and has 107 Ah. Bosch has an H8 with the same reserve capacity so I'd assume it's about the same Ah.

I would highly suggest registering the new battery either way. If you have a soldering iron, there are cables you can get on eBay for ~$10 that you can use to register it. PM me if you want details.
This is where it gets weird again with the battery thing, Duralast 8H from Autozone rated at 72 Ah is not suitable for my car?
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      10-08-2015, 07:07 PM   #14
kkasson
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It isn't that it's not suitable, but if the car is currently coded for 90Ah and you put in a 72Ah battery, it will overcharge it. That might not be too much of a problem, maybe someone else will know for sure whether you can get away with it.

But ideally you want it to match what it's coded for...and if not, it's better for it to be coded lower (so that it doesn't overcharge).
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      10-08-2015, 07:17 PM   #15
corsotx10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkasson View Post
It isn't that it's not suitable, but if the car is currently coded for 90Ah and you put in a 72Ah battery, it will overcharge it. That might not be too much of a problem, maybe someone else will know for sure whether you can get away with it.

But ideally you want it to match what it's coded for...and if not, it's better for it to be coded lower (so that it doesn't overcharge).
Extreme Automotive Batteries & Parts L5/49 Auto Battery L5/49X is this the one?
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      10-08-2015, 07:33 PM   #16
kkasson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsotx10 View Post
Extreme Automotive Batteries & Parts L5/49 Auto Battery L5/49X is this the one?
Sorry! I was looking at the Duralast H6...the H6 is 72Ah and the H8 is 90. So the Duralast H8-DLG should work fine for you.

But yeah, that's the correct Exide battery. Although it seems that Exide went bankrupt a few years ago...maybe their batteries aren't as good now as they were when they made them for BMW in 2006? Who knows.
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      10-08-2015, 07:46 PM   #17
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As far as registering a 06

As far as registering a 06
my Indy had problems with autologic.
I tried to do it with DIS57 and Inpa it error-ed on both of those.
Finally i ran it under tool32 in the Inpa ebidas ncsexpert
package and that didn't return any errors and yes I had
msv70 selected .
It seems there is some question if the 06 needs registration at
all.
Better to have to many amp hours with these battery hungry pigs
than to little.
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      10-08-2015, 09:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsotx10 View Post
Autozone website gave me the option of H8-DLG and H6-DLG. I am from Texas so I am not worried about the cold climate. What's your suggestion? These threads about batteries spook me out.



If you have the same battery as mine. According to robthewrench, it might be a H6 battery. Would it matter if you replace it with group H8 battery, like you did? Also, did you register or code it?

Also, I found out that your battery is rated at 105AH which is more than 90aH.



Why do you have to code it if it is almost the same rating?

Also, how can I find the AH rating from autozone?
H6 is a smaller size battery. H8 is identical. You always have to code and register. If you dont, you will have some issues. And your alternator will be pushing too high of amperage. The older the battery gets, the higher the alternator starts to work. Orem battery isn't the same rating as autozone battery.
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      10-08-2015, 11:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk55 View Post
Walmart batteries suck... google search.
Not a thing wrong with Walmart batteries. They are made by Exide.
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      10-09-2015, 05:19 AM   #20
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Wait a minute... are you actually having battery issues? Like the car is really slow to turn over or something? Weird electrical issues that cannot be explained?

Otherwise why are you replacing the battery? I don't know where you go the information that your voltage while the car is running "should be around 14.5. This is simply not true. As Wilt said when the engine is running you are then measuring the output of your Alternator not your battery. The only way for you to measure the voltage of your battery is to measure voltage when the engine is OFF.

Anyway I would suggest having the battery actually tested. Go to autozone, Oreilly, Napa, Pep Boys or somewhere similar and have them actually test the battery. They have battery testers that will put a load on the battery to see what the charge/discharge rates are based on the battery's specs. Only this can truly tell you if the battery is in need of replacement.

As far as replacement batteries there is nothing wrong with Walmart batteries as Walmart themselves does not make them. They are made by Johnson Controls the same company behind Interstate batteries. Anyway as per Consumer Reports, who by the way do much more testing than anyone else on this forum. The Walmart MAXX H6 has actually received their "BEST BUY" award for its performance and price combination. This is specifically for Group 48/H6 battery size.
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      10-09-2015, 05:28 AM   #21
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Actually, their Everstart battery line isn't made by Johnson controls anymore, last time I checked.
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      10-09-2015, 05:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory S View Post
Actually, their Everstart battery line isn't made by Johnson controls anymore, last time I checked.
Do you have any specific information that the "regular" Everstart batteries are no longer made by Johnson Controls?
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