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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: VRSF Inlet Install (With Pics)



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      10-20-2015, 03:06 AM   #1
robmarley
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DIY: VRSF Inlet Install (With Pics)

I have been hanging around the forums for a little over a year now and I felt it was about time I made some sort of contribution. So here it is.

I linked the DIY as a PDf below. The install requires some effort, but the payoff is worth it.

I am a big fan of VRSF - they are one of the few companies that provide quality products at reasonable prices and this kit was no different.

Hope this helps anyone interested in picking up a set.

Enjoy!!!
Attached Images
File Type: pdf DIY VRSF Inlet Installation.pdf (1.13 MB, 11459 views)

Last edited by robmarley; 10-23-2015 at 05:12 AM.. Reason: Revised Guide
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      10-20-2015, 01:37 PM   #2
Kienvu14
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Thanks! Some people moved their boost solenoids and I was curious if I HAVE to or is there enough room to leave the boost solenoids where they are and to just route the vacuum canisters to behind the valve cover gasket under the cowl?
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VRSF CP w/ Tial BOV,VRSF 7 inch FMIC, VRSF Catless DP's, Hexon RR600, Cobb V3, VMR V710 Gunmetal 19x8.5 and 19x9.5, SteveAZ stage 2 bucket
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      10-20-2015, 02:32 PM   #3
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Man, this is gonna be a tough install..
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      10-20-2015, 03:22 PM   #4
robmarley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kienvu14
Thanks! Some people moved their boost solenoids and I was curious if I HAVE to or is there enough room to leave the boost solenoids where they are and to just route the vacuum canisters to behind the valve cover gasket under the cowl?
Woops, sorry I didn't answer your question... You definitely do not have to move the boost solenoids. They are not in the way at all.

I thought you were asking about the vacuum canisters. Those will have to be relocated.


I am going to see if there is a more convenient place to mount them tonight. I will update with pictures if I figure it out. I definitely don't want to run it without the vac cans.


to be completely honest. install wasn't bad. it took me more time to stop ever 2 minutes to document what I was doing. as a heads up tho, everything I very tight, my hands look like they were attached by a cat. wear gloves lol

Last edited by robmarley; 10-20-2015 at 04:16 PM..
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      10-20-2015, 06:31 PM   #5
jtswole
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Yes, your hands will get beat to hell! Lol
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      10-20-2015, 06:32 PM   #6
jtswole
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Why did you remove the tires?
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      10-20-2015, 06:45 PM   #7
Fundguy1
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Um, I'll have the shop do mine when they do my turbos.
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      10-20-2015, 07:04 PM   #8
jtswole
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How did you install the inlets without removing the downpipes?
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      10-20-2015, 09:17 PM   #9
robmarley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtswole View Post
Why did you remove the tires?
So they dont pull down the subframe further and it was just a lot easier crawling under the car from the side without tires. I guess it's not necessary.
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      10-20-2015, 09:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtswole View Post
How did you install the inlets without removing the downpipes?
I unbolted them and just pushed them to the sides and reached up between them.
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      10-21-2015, 05:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmarley View Post
So they dont pull down the subframe further and it was just a lot easier crawling under the car from the side without tires. I guess it's not necessary.
That is a good idea lol.
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      10-21-2015, 01:35 PM   #12
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wow that was alot of unnecessary work. To each their own. I did it in about 3 hours start to finish. I did not have to do anything with the subframe/intake manifold/throttle body. The only thing I moved around to make the DP uninstall/install easier was the steering rack bolt on the passenger side to slide the rack forward a couple inches.

I am not bashing OP for the very nicely detailed DIY. It is a very clear cut way to do it, just not all necessary.
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      10-21-2015, 02:06 PM   #13
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honestly, it looks like way more work than it is when u lay it out in steps on paper. had I just been installing and not stopping to document it all, I would've been done in just over 3 hrs also. the intake manifold only added about 25-30 min to the install time and subframe was maybe another 5-10 max. I would've skipped rhem, but i couldn't get that damn rear intake pipe out for the life of me lol.
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      10-23-2015, 09:02 PM   #14
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How did you guys get the rear stock inlet out? Im at the point I'm going to saw it into pieces....which I think is the only way.

Last edited by mgb1974; 10-23-2015 at 09:33 PM..
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      10-25-2015, 02:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgb1974
How did you guys get the rear stock inlet out? Im at the point I'm going to saw it into pieces....which I think is the only way.
I removed the intake manifold and lowered the subframe with the engine on it. made more than enough room to pull the inlet out. I have that listed as optional in the pdf. apparently some people have more room in the rear than others.
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      01-01-2016, 03:25 PM   #16
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Looking forward to using this PDF as an install guide. Thanks for the write up... Ill have comments and feedback Saturday or Sunday
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      01-02-2016, 02:50 AM   #17
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About 5hrs in with 2 people working on it.

Removed: stock air box, Downpipes, intercooler, chargepipe, radiator fan, oil catch can & associated PCV lines, vacuum canisters, coolant overflow.
Front inlet is out, and VRSF inlet installed
Was able to get the rear inlet out by cutting at the 90*.
Working to install rear VRSF inlet without lowering subframe.

Will hopefully finish up tomorrow night!
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      01-02-2016, 04:17 PM   #18
E90convert
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Got the rear VRSF inlet installed.
Removed washer fluid heat shield, pushed washer fluid neck out of the way.
Removed large heat shield by downpipes
Put 90* coupler on rear turbo. Fed hard pipe through top of car. This took two people.
Did not have to drop subframe.
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      01-03-2016, 04:49 PM   #19
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Feeding the cooling lines is a cluster-F. Having 2 straight hose connection barbs would be better than the 90* one. Easier just to make your own brackets for mounting things. Overall happy with the results. Definitely a power increase. Thanks for the write up OP
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      01-08-2016, 02:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90convert
Feeding the cooling lines is a cluster-F. Having 2 straight hose connection barbs would be better than the 90* one. Easier just to make your own brackets for mounting things. Overall happy with the results. Definitely a power increase. Thanks for the write up OP
hey man, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I've had a busy few weeks.

I feel like I have installed and re-installed this inlet kit 20,000 times lol. I have been trying to hunt down a boost leak - I think... car has been slow to build boost.

anyway, it is entirely possible to install the rear inlet without dropping the subframe or removing the downpipes. your hands will get torn up tho.

I'm glad the writeup was helpful for you. How does your car feel? mine was great at first, but now acceleration has been choppy and laggy. I can't figure out whats going on. Not a single error code has been thrown.
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      01-13-2016, 09:57 PM   #21
E90convert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmarley View Post
hey man, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I've had a busy few weeks.

I feel like I have installed and re-installed this inlet kit 20,000 times lol. I have been trying to hunt down a boost leak - I think... car has been slow to build boost.

anyway, it is entirely possible to install the rear inlet without dropping the subframe or removing the downpipes. your hands will get torn up tho.

I'm glad the writeup was helpful for you. How does your car feel? mine was great at first, but now acceleration has been choppy and laggy. I can't figure out whats going on. Not a single error code has been thrown.
Car feels alot more powerful. It feels unnatural to have as much power up top as I do in an N54. What is your FF learning to?
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      01-14-2016, 11:52 AM   #22
robmarley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90convert
Quote:
Originally Posted by robmarley View Post
hey man, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I've had a busy few weeks.

I feel like I have installed and re-installed this inlet kit 20,000 times lol. I have been trying to hunt down a boost leak - I think... car has been slow to build boost.

anyway, it is entirely possible to install the rear inlet without dropping the subframe or removing the downpipes. your hands will get torn up tho.

I'm glad the writeup was helpful for you. How does your car feel? mine was great at first, but now acceleration has been choppy and laggy. I can't figure out whats going on. Not a single error code has been thrown.
Car feels alot more powerful. It feels unnatural to have as much power up top as I do in an N54. What is your FF learning to?
not sure honestly. I have a custom wedge tune and I just emailed him some logs to hopefully make the needed adjustments. I thought I had a hardware issue so I went over all hoses and connections like 50,000 times lmao. I finally chalked it up to tune. so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'm right lol
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