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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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User Manual says not to wait for the car to warm up, and to start driving right away
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01-08-2013, 12:26 PM | #23 |
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I start driving right away, but conservatively until the oil is warmed up. The way I see it, if cold oil is bad, then why would you want your engine to run with cold oil longer than necessary? Conservative driving will warm the oil up much more quickly than idle, and will actually get you some miles and emissions to the gallon of fuel.
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01-08-2013, 12:41 PM | #25 |
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i wait about 2-3 minutes in my car to warm up then for the next couple of miles I don't exeed 3K rpm ( sometimes even 2k rpm).
in cold weather the temperature of the car after 22 miles (city/highway) is like 200. so must of the time i dont event go higher than 3500rpm on daily basis |
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01-08-2013, 12:42 PM | #26 |
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Why is it the factory engineers are so dumb with their recommendations & some guy on the internet with zero training is so smart that you follow his advice?
+ 1 on the JB4 telling you when is good to run hard.
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01-08-2013, 03:32 PM | #28 | |
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The restrictions on warming up without driving off are all about placating the Greens. It makes absolute sense to baby the engine and transmission until they are warmed up, and although I would not sit warming up for 10 minutes, if it were really cold, sub-zero I would probably wait 2 minutes and then no playtime until the oil is at least 75c (which the manual recommends, in fact), which means light throttle and no more than 3k revs. Even if the oil is fully effective at low temperatures the thermal expansion of the various engine components can never be exactly equal, and so gaps and tolerances will vary. Stuff the Greens, I say |
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01-08-2013, 06:56 PM | #30 |
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not driving the car too hard until the oil warms up sounds like a good idea, but what exactly is "too hard", RPMs over 3000?
i have to join a very busy highway within 2 min of my morning commute so i typically have to gun it a bit on the entry ramp. i hope this isn't doing any long term damage to the car, once on i keep the RPMs low. |
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01-08-2013, 08:02 PM | #31 |
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Sadly, mine sleeps outdoors. On bitter cold mornings, I have to wait for the windshield to defrost and/or be scraped anyway.
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01-08-2013, 09:09 PM | #33 | |
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All the hero's defending the manual can go ahead and do just that. Theyre ignoring common sense. Viscosity changes at lower temps so letting it warm for a min isnt harming anything. Idling for 15 min could though because it makes you run LEAN. At any rate, avoid heavy acceleration or 3000+rpm until at operating temps. You dont need the oil temp gauge to see if youre at operating temp. The digital oil level check in the onboard computer or idrive only gives you a reading when at operating temps. Otherwise it gives you a spinning "loading" icon. |
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01-08-2013, 09:51 PM | #35 | |
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01-08-2013, 10:01 PM | #36 |
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Damn I go at 900. Then again in Florida it probably doesn't take a while to get there.
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01-08-2013, 10:09 PM | #37 | |
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For this reason I'm quite happy that I have an oil temp gauge in my current car. Coming from an e46, which had a coolant temp gauge, and an e60, which had no temp gauge whatsoever, I am glad to actually have a temp gauge that allows me to better estimate the temperature of my engine. I just think it's perfectly logical to wait until driving it hard... |
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01-08-2013, 10:38 PM | #40 |
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01-08-2013, 11:21 PM | #41 |
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The Greens & the guys in black helicopters make them tell you to drive off right away so they can save the world, give me a break. If the car had an oil pressure gauge you would see the oil pressure is up before you could move your hand from the starter button to the shift lever to move the car. Typically idle speed has a lower pressure then say 1500/2000rpm's full oil pressure there is no reason not to drive the car.
Back in the bad old days of 3K oil changes forged pistons were slapping around & rattling in their holes till they got warm & expanded. Like 3k oil changes we don’t need to do that stuff any more because the metallurgy & assembly tolerances are much better. We are also running 0 & 5 weight multigrade oil for its cold flow characteristics in the cold weather not straight 30 & 40 weight like in an ‘60’s muscle car. The other end of the number 20 30 40 is its performance hot. I drive easy till the JB4 flashes that the oil is up to 160 degrees F. I also have a gauge hijack for water temp on my gas gauge & noticed the water comes up very fast in this car.
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01-08-2013, 11:50 PM | #42 | |
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01-09-2013, 07:58 AM | #43 |
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01-09-2013, 08:25 AM | #44 |
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Modern cars with direct injection (electronic) do not require a long warm up. 25 seconds at 25 F and 60 seconds at 10F or below is adequate. Just enough time to get the fluids moving, but dont drive hard until the car is completely warmed up. The catalytic converter needs to warm up and will do so when the car is moving. Idling for long periods in general is not very good for the car. As mentioned in previous posts changes were made throughout the years to automobiles due to emission controls across the world.
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