[335icam]

i have a indicator issue - hazard lights flash at correct speed but right indicator flashes 120 times per min, could this be a faulty control module as the car says faulty bulbs but i have changed assembly’s multiple times. All lights are still on and working

[Captain Buumer]

I had similar problem.

About 4 error messages stating various bulb malfunctions.
Turn signal would flash very quickly.

I had fitted LED fog lights along with resistors.
I did a bad job with isolating resistor from water and on rainy day it created a short circuit = these malfunction messages.

None of the messages were correctly pointing to fog lights.

When i cleaned fog lights connections from water errors dissapeared.

So i would suspect you got water leak somewhere creating a short.circuit on an item that is controlled by FRM.

[335icam]

Thanks for the reply i will definitely be checking every light connection on the right side. Fog light , headlight , turn signal ,fender signal , and all rear lighting wire connections just to be making sure they aren’t just sitting in a puddle of water and i will get back with you.

[335icam]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

I had similar problem.

About 4 error messages stating various bulb malfunctions.
Turn signal would flash very quickly.

I had fitted LED fog lights along with resistors.
I did a bad job with isolating resistor from water and on rainy day it created a short circuit = these malfunction messages.

None of the messages were correctly pointing to fog lights.

When i cleaned fog lights connections from water errors dissapeared.

So i would suspect you got water leak somewhere creating a short.circuit on an item that is controlled by FRM.

Checked all connections and everything was dry and fine. Next step buying a set of oem tail lights , as I’m running aftermarket lcis and if that doesn’t work we will see what the local Indy says.

[335icam]

Here are the codes my frm is reading

[E93Seattle (Racerbruce)]

suggest reading this as a potential repair option of the frm:
https://the-ecu-pro.com/garage/searc...twell%20Module

[Tambohamilton]

Had various frm issues on 2 cars, both due to water ingress at the base of the windscreen which made the frm itself damp. Fixed both by disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the trim and seals at the base of the windscreen, and fully coating the PCB of the frm with corrosion-x. No issues from either car for about 4 years now.

[335icam]

Originally Posted by E93Seattle (Racerbruce)

suggest reading this as a potential repair option of the frm:
https://the-ecu-pro.com/garage/searc...twell%20Module

Thank you i have never used this company before but i see they have good reviews definitely putting it into consideration.

[335icam]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Had various frm issues on 2 cars, both due to water ingress at the base of the windscreen which made the frm itself damp. Fixed both by disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the trim and seals at the base of the windscreen, and fully coating the PCB of the frm with corrosion-x. No issues from either car for about 4 years now.

I have the same issue as i left i damp rag in my car on a really hot day , all day and it caused this.

What is the PCB of the frm?

My connectors both side show no corrosion and are perfectly clean.I’m going to clean the connectors both sides(wiring harness and frm side)
with electrical cleaner to see if it makes any difference maybe there is something i can’t see

[Tambohamilton]

I opened up the frm by taking the black plastic covers apart, and coated the electronics fully with corrosion-x

[335icam]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I opened up the form by taking the black plastic covers apart, and coated the electronics fully with corrosion-x

I haven’t heard of this option yet

Did you cut the frm open or does it literally just need to be pry’d apart with a plastic pry tool or something?

[Tambohamilton]

It's held together with tiny screws. Super simple

[Tambohamilton]

Forgot to add - after opening the frm I let it dry out indoors by a radiator for a good 24h, just to be sure it was fully dry before I covered it in corrosion-x.

Also heads-up that corrosion-x is probably just mineral oil...but I wasn't about to go smothering the frm with untested suspension fluid so I went with corrosion-x.

[335icam]

So i had time today to take out the frm and literally everything looked fine im so stumped.

Next step seeing if it has these codes when i plug in a oem tail light.

If that doesn’t work it’s going to ecu pros for a test on the frm apparently they attach it to another car to see if it has the same issue.

[Tambohamilton]

Yeah, both the ones I worked on looked pristine when I opened them up. But between sealing up the trim at the base of the windscreen and coating the electronics with corrosion-x, it's sorted the issues I was seeing.

[335icam]

OEM tail lights will be here tomorrow will update and let you guys know if it fixed my problem or not

Called dealer just for the diagnosis price. For a 2007 bmw 335i
He told me they charge 3 hours diagnosis at $220 an hour = $660 just for the diagnosis. LOL

[335icam]

New OEM tail lights in and no difference still same codes with the fast blinker.

Just sent the FRM to eco pros will update as i go through this process

[335icam]

For anyone wondering , i had my FRM sent to The Ecu Pro and they tested my unit and said that they were having the same problems in their test vehicle and i needed a replacement unit for $500. so we replaced it and everything is working perfectly

[Bims328i]

Why do the FRM modules just go out so frequently in these cars? Is this typically from various forms of modifications you might find from hobbyists or do they just, go out?

I have some experience with soldering and SMDs. Typically speaking the chips are what go out not the SMDs like capacitors and diodes with the exception of the two electrolytic capacitors. Those usually go before everything else. The chips seemingly go out from weird voltage instances brought on by a litany of real-world freak scenarios.

In most cases it will likely be a problem with those ICs which are probably proprietary so you can only get a new board. Adding they likely don't provide info for the ICs on the FRM so what can you do.

With those SMD there can also be fuses which can blow and just need a new tiny SMD component to repair the board.

I actually just fixed a friends old Xbox one PSU by replacing four caps.

That being said I could feasibly source those basic parts. I still think it's kind of wild how often these FRMs go out.

[marvinstockman]

An easy way to dry out anything electronic, without damaging it, is to put it in the oven and just turn the oven light on. In my oven, the temp gets to about 105 F as read by my infrared thermometer. Just put a caution flag on the oven, while the electronics are baking.

Of note, I was also thinking about sending my FRM to ECU Pro, but I was concerned that my FRM wouldn't get repaired for the advertised $250. It would just get replaced for the advertised $500.

Maybe someone from FRM would like to chime in.

[marvinstockman]

Sorry, I meant ECU Pro.

[335icam]

Yeah that’s exactly what i was worried about them not being able to repair my unit and just replace it . They took my $250 from the repair and applied it to the replacement unit. The replacement unit was sent back plug and play with a warranty. They also offered to extend the warranty if i wrote a review which i haven’t got around to doing, but i really suggest their work.

Lost story short i was fucking around with this frm for about a month and they fixed my problem within 5 days.Totally solved my headache , kept me involved in they’re whole process and they even sent a video back of the replacement FRM working in a video of their test car.

Now i can finally drive my car in peace until the next thing happens