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      06-02-2014, 12:30 PM   #1
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35d: adding crankcase breather oil separator

NOTE: I figured I go ahead cross-post my project on this board as well to get more feedback. I was pointed to this board from elsewhere. This was done on an X3 35d, but the same should apply to the 335d. So here we go!!!

---------------------
PART 1

I've been at this for some time tinkering with the idea of reducing oil particles going through the intake via the crankcase breather. The issue is not really so much about oil consumption that is very well manageable at about 1 quart every 10K miles. The issue is actually about tar build up in the intake manifold resulting from the oil mist mixing with the soot from the HP EGR.

The crankcase breather is in the back of the valve cover (note: this picture from a slight different version of the M57 than what the 35d has, but the location is the same... More on the difference later)



I researched the history of BMW approach to this in the M57:

Design #1

The original solution had an actual filter in it. Through some research I found that the same design was used by Land Rover. While Land Rover had the filter as a maintenance item necessitating replacement every 20k-30k miles, BMW never did. This result in the filter clogging up resulting in high crankcase pressure, which ultimately caused issues with the turbo lubrication. That filter was very effective at removing oil particulates from the crankcase gasses, but required maintenance. I think at this as what the quintessence of the German Engineer designed before sales and marketing got involved... Here's how that filter looked like:



Design #2
Sales & marketing gets involved, so as opposed to making the filter a maintenance item (it's not terribly hard to get to it and replace it, but BMW has an ongoing effort, right or wrong that is, to cut down on maintenance requirements) they replaced the filter with a cyclonic separator. Conceptually it works like the Dyson vacuum cleaner: it is free flowing so there's nothing to clogs or maintain. It's not as effective as the filter so some diesel owners in Europe go back to the old design to cut back on oil going through the intake and make it maintenance item. Here's how it looks:



Design #3
Lastly it appears BMW has redesigned the valve cover all together which now incorporates the separator which is of the maintenance-free cyclonic type. My dad has a 325d with the M57 and although the crankcase breather assembly looks as the one above, once removed there's neither a filter nor a cyclonic separator, hence my deduction that the oil separation function is built into the valve cover design (that is unless sales & marketing took over engineering and decided to get rid of such nonsense and let the oil flow). Our X5 has slightly different breather assembly since the line that goes from the valve to the intake is not built into the valve cover. Nonetheless, there is no separator of any kind between the breather valve and the valve cover. Here's how our valve looks like:



--------------------------------------

So at the end of the day after a bit of homework I concluded that the initial design is very effective at removing oil particles, but not being maintenance-free prompted BMW to redesign the system. The result is a less effective yet maintenance-free solution. For me, as for others who have retrofitted the filter, the benefits of better oil separation outweighs the additional maintenance requirements, particularly since carbon (or better yet tar) build up has somewhat of a precedent in the US version of the M57 that allegedly has more aggressive EGR maps. This is particularly true on the 335d which, again speculations, not having a LP EGR (which is picked up after the DPF) recirculates only unfiltered gasses.

From what I observed soot is a very dry particles that makes me conclude that in and of itself soot doesn't build up excessively; it is soot mixed with oily vapors that builds up in a tar like obstructive crap

--------------------------------------

Unfortunately since our breather valve assembly is different design, the filter is not a simple drop in, just like it would in, for example, my dad's 325d. It just wouldn't fit.


So for the past couple of weeks I've been looking at way to fit an external oil separator (like the Mann+Hummel ProVent) but have yet to find an elegant and easy way to do it. Not to mention the annoyance of having oil collecting somewhere that makes the car looks like it has some sort of incontinence. And, last but not least, it is technically for "off road use only" in California which could result in failing visual inspection: so whatever I come up would need to be easily reversible so I can but it back to stock once inspection time comes...

Then I came across something in the TDI world called the "Old Navy CCV" (CCV Mod - Page 2 - TDIClub Forums): it's basically a guy who has milled out of aluminum a CCV housing with a filter to remove the oil particulate. The TDI, even more so than our cars from what I've seen collect oil in the intake and inter-cooler. At the beginning I didn't give it too much thoughts as my head was elsewhere looking for a standalone separator.

But then I realized that the very same concept can work for us: what about adding some filtering media in our assembly?

There is a fair amount of room where some filtering media would fit very well, just like in the Old Navy CCV



Oil would get trapped in the medium and drain back. Every 20k or so mile would would remove 3 bolts, wash it with some gasoline and you're good to go.
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      06-02-2014, 12:30 PM   #2
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PART 2

I guess I'll go on and use this thread to document this project: here's the execution.

I think a good approach is to stage the filtration: I figured I'll have a first layer of low density media, a second layer of higher density, and maybe a third layer. At the top I'll have a stainless steel baffle to hold the media in place, provide further oil separation and actually create sort of an air gap between filtering media and the exit.

Now comes the fan part... I was at Lowe's and I think I've found what I thing is a great media: 3M stripping & finishing pads (basically the same material that the Old Navy PCV used, so it's tested to work in these conditions).

For Stage 1 I bought 3M Heavy Duty Stripping pads, while For Stage 2 I bought 3M Final Finishing pads.



The Stage 3 I'm still not sure if I'll have it, but here's what happened. Before I started going down the current route, I was looking at adding an external oil separator so I went ahead and bought a Mann Provent 200. It looks like this:



As you can see inside there is a filter. I haven't received it yet, but the idea is to look at possibly unraveling the media from the filter and use it as Stage 3... Since I haven't got a chance to dissect it yet, I don't know if it's big enough; maybe it can even be the only stage I'll use, but then I'll have to figure out a way to hold it in place. Anyhow, I guess that would be considered for the next sprint...

Last part is the baffle.

At a closer look to our CCV assembly I noticed on the inside a sort of groove (highlighted in the second picture) that would work perfect to hold the baffle at a certain distance from the outlet. This would create an air gap between the filter and the outlet allowing for possibly better flow.



For the baffle, I'll go to Bed Bath and Beyond today in search of a perforated pan to cut out: they come in different shapes and sizes so I hope to find something that serves the purpose: https://www.google.com/search?q=perf...h=600#imgdii=_
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      06-02-2014, 12:31 PM   #3
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PART 3

Allright fellas: here's the story of first prototype, currently installed in my car for testing.

First the hardest part of the job: tampering the anti-tamper bolts. The clue that there was something going on first came by looking at the diagrams on RealOEM that didn't show the crankcase breather valve (from now on CCV) as a separate item for US cars; the ROW cars like the 30sd that is the base for our 35d had it as a separate item, but not ours.

Here's the two diagrams side by side: left is the US 35d, while right is a ROW 30sd:



It turns out that the bolts that are labeled 10 in the ROW (and are missing in the US) are actually some Allen bolts with a pentagon socket in the head.



Despite my fairly furnished tool box I didn't have such a socket but I wasn't going to stop: an old Allen wrench, the almighty Dremel, and a hammer and you can jam a socket in there and take them off. Other than those bolts the rest of the CCV system is precisely the same as the ROW which I confirmed comparing the p/n stamped on the parts. When putting it back together I used some Allen bolts I had there, but if you want to go ahead and used BMW bolts (which are kind of cool since they have a mechanism to trap the bolt in the sleeve so the don't fall out) the p/n is 11-12-7-803-813.

Passed this hurdle, it's pretty much as planed with next step being cutting the various stages appropriately.

First you'll need a template. To create one simply rub some of that nasty used diesel oil saturated with soot around the perimeter of the CCV and use it to stamp a template on piece of paper:



Once you got the template you're ready to cut.

I didn't go with a fully on baffle, but still added a nice stainless steel mash inside the CCV: the purpose again is to hold the filter in place and create an air gap between the filter and the outlet.



You then want to go ahead and do the same with filters. As I described in the previous post I used a staged approach, and actually went ahead with also Stage 3, which is using the media from the Mann Provent 200. Using a box cutter you can easily remove it from the assembly. You actually don't have to buy, like I did, the whole Provent, you can source the filter by itself. Here's a possible source: [LC-5001-X]Mann-Filter European CCV Element(SI - Industrial Heavy truck and Bus/Off-Highway ).



After cutting the two stripping pads you may want to wash them with some hot water to remove any loose particles. Here's how the stacked assembly looks like:



You then go ahead and pack the wire mash and the Provent media in the CCV...



...and the other two stages in the cavity in the valve cover



Now that you got everything installed, you can put it back together.

--------------------------------------------

After putting it back together the car fired up just fine an has been running just fine: no differences whatsoever, odd noises, even checked several parameters and everything is within norm. The flow of gasses doesn't appear to be restricted in any way; if you compare the surface of the filter to the section of the passages is probably an order of magnitude different. Bottom line I don't expect this affect the performance in any way... But I guess time will be the judge.

If I have time tonight or tomorrow morning I'll remove it and check for obvious signs of problems. Otherwise I'm gone for the weekend to the race track so the X5 will do some towing and I suspect by next weekend I'll probably have a good 1,000 miles on the setup. At that point I'll go ahead and remove it and check for integrity.

Long term I think two indicators would tell me if this works or not:
1) I've noticed oiliness in the rubber hose going form the CCV duct to the intake, inside the intake itself and a little puddle of oil right in front of EGR throttle: we'll see what happens to either
2) I've gone though roughly 1 qt of oil every 7K miles: based on 1 I suspect that most if not all of it comes from the CCV so we'll see how things go over the next oil change

There is one thing I want to bring up to everyone that I'll have no way to test: I don't know if the filter could cause issue below freezing. In particular moisture from the crankcase vapors could get trapped in the filter and freeze. This could clog it resulting in high pressure and a bunch of problems. I live in San Diego, car is always parked in the garage so for me that's not a problem. I wanted to bring this up so that you consider it.

------------------------------------

I guess the last thing is that I'll update this thread based on my results.

Ciao!!!!

Last edited by ZetaTre; 06-07-2014 at 10:50 AM..
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      06-02-2014, 12:37 PM   #4
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Over the weekend I put about 500 miles of towing on the car with no obvious signs of issues such as leaks from the valve cover or the front/rear seals.

By next weekend I'll likely have about 1,000 miles on the project and I plan on taking it apart and see how things look inside.

I was also planing on making something to check crankcase pressure, but before moving had with that I figured there's a first quick test to try: TDIwyse pointed me to a finding in his test that the vapor that you can observe escaping the crankcase at idle by removing the oil fill cap actually gets sucked in when you apply throttle. Although this won't tell you how much vacuum you have, a similar observation would confirm that the crankcase is under vacuum...

Stay tuned if you're interested...
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      06-02-2014, 01:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZetaTre View Post
Over the weekend I put about 500 miles of towing on the car with no obvious signs of issues such as leaks from the valve cover or the front/rear seals.

By next weekend I'll likely have about 1,000 miles on the project and I plan on taking it apart and see how things look inside.

I was also planing on making something to check crankcase pressure, but before moving had with that I figured there's a first quick test to try: TDIwyse pointed me to a finding in his test that the vapor that you can observe escaping the crankcase at idle by removing the oil fill cap actually gets sucked in when you apply throttle. Although this won't tell you how much vacuum you have, a similar observation would confirm that the crankcase is under vacuum...

Stay tuned if you're interested...
That's all real interesting stuff. Thanks for sharing. Not having to worry about extreme cold gives you lots of design margin on some significantly important aspects.

I posted very precise readings on the crankcase vacuum measurements in the link below and then a video on post #320. These were measured from the dipstick tube.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=319
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      06-02-2014, 08:22 PM   #6
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Upon further research I've learned of a much simpler way to see if my filter is of any obstruction. By nature our diesel engine produce a certain amount of steam of fumes that is very much visible at idle by removing the oil cap. As you apply gas and a certain vacuum builds up in the intake the fumes are drawn into the intake through the CCV and stop exiting the crankcase through the oil cap: observing this behavior would indeed mean that the crankcase is under vacuum. Of course you don't know how, but that's a formality: the important thing is to have vacuum.

Well, the results are in and indeed there my filter doesn't cause the crankcase to run under pressure. It is under vacuum as it's clearly shown in these couple of short video.



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      06-02-2014, 10:58 PM   #7
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Zeta, To access the crankcase breather, do you have to remove the intake manifold? If you removed the intake manifold, did you a lot of buildup?
Thanks
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      06-02-2014, 11:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montr View Post
Zeta, To access the crankcase breather, do you have to remove the intake manifold? If you removed the intake manifold, did you a lot of buildup?
Thanks
No you don't have to remove the intake. The CCV is on the top of the valve cover, towards the rear passenger side of the engine.

I did remove the EGR when I cleaned the intake using the Liqui Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner spray and I want to say it was moderately dirty from what I could see. What got me and prompt me to look for a way to reduce oil through the crankase was the oily nature of the deposit that contrast the dryness of soot.
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      06-03-2014, 12:29 PM   #9
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wow where the hell has this guy been hiding, AWESOME review to bad I cant see everything Im at work damn it!!
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      06-04-2014, 08:43 AM   #10
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Zeta Tre you are the man I finally saw the whole pics hope you can start selling this to us cause I'll be in line for one
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      06-04-2014, 11:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d View Post
Zeta Tre you are the man I finally saw the whole pics hope you can start selling this to us cause I'll be in line for one
Thanks for the vote of confidence!!!

I still haven't got to the point of knowing weather or not it works, but I know for sure I won't be selling it: there isn't really much to sell here.

I've tried to present my project in a way that others can replicate if they feel it would work for them as well...

And if by all means if someone else wants to pick this up and turn it into a product to sell, go right ahead!!!!
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      06-04-2014, 11:49 AM   #12
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Sent you a pm on this ok
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      06-04-2014, 09:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d View Post
Sent you a pm on this ok
Got the pm. Again I really appreciate it.

I just want it to be crystal clear: I had an issue with my car and thought this was a possible solution; I realize others may have the same issue so I thought I'd share my approach to for other to either use or improve upon. I have no interest to turn this into a product or directly help others making it into a product.
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      06-04-2014, 09:15 PM   #14
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I am thinking there may be some harm with having the oil flow back into the oil pan.

It is a nasty mixture or diesel, soot, and oil. Having that mix with your lubricating oil will change its properties.

Sorry if I misunderstood or am misinformed
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      06-06-2014, 03:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GottaBeKD View Post
I am thinking there may be some harm with having the oil flow back into the oil pan.

It is a nasty mixture or diesel, soot, and oil. Having that mix with your lubricating oil will change its properties.

Sorry if I misunderstood or am misinformed
I'm not sure I get your point: the oil suspended in the vent fumes is the same oil that is in the pan, they both come from the same spot, no?
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      06-06-2014, 05:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZetaTre
Quote:
Originally Posted by GottaBeKD View Post
I am thinking there may be some harm with having the oil flow back into the oil pan.

It is a nasty mixture or diesel, soot, and oil. Having that mix with your lubricating oil will change its properties.

Sorry if I misunderstood or am misinformed
I'm not sure I get your point: the oil suspended in the vent fumes is the same oil that is in the pan, they both come from the same spot, no?
Plus some blow by or other crap possibly in there. Someone had a catch can installed and the stuff coming out of it was like tar.

Just thinking out loud if I am on crack please feel free to take it away from me
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      06-06-2014, 11:10 PM   #17
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Like I promised, I took it apart today. I've put on it about 750-1,000 miles. For the record the car has 78,300 miles.

What I found was pretty shocking: I let the picture speak for themselves.

Stage 1 before and after.



Stage 2 before and after.



Stage 3 before and after.



As you can see the amount of oil that was trapped in Stage 2 and Stage 3 was substantial. Since Stage 1 didn't look like it was doing much I replaced it with another Stage 2.

I think the only way to know whether it works or not at this time is to see if the oil level drops at all over the 10K miles life of the oil.

I'll let you know!!!

Last edited by ZetaTre; 06-06-2014 at 11:15 PM..
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      06-07-2014, 07:30 AM   #18
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Zeta, kudos for your investigative spirit. While others have noted that there may be some impact on recirculating the oil that is caught by your mod, I would make two notes: 1) it will be filtered by the main oil filter, and 2) I believe better to go as a dirtied liquid through the liquid's primary filtering system than through the hot components of the intake and head to be built up as hard carbon deposits.

Well done.

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      06-29-2014, 10:36 AM   #19
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I think version 1.0 does an ok job: after disassembling it I noticed there was still a certain amount of oil passing through.

I did some more researching and found that coalscer filter works in 2 steps: step 1 they saturate by coalescing (http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/coalesce) droplets of oil in the blow-by; once they get to a certain saturation they start with step 2 which is basically shedding the oil (you can read some more here: http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...0Brochure).pdf). If oil is not shed then is picked back up by the gasses... Well, I suspect my trick is not doing a good job at shedding the oil.

After numerous trials, I finally found a place to put a ProVent 200 in the engine bay: at first look the engine bay appears big, but so is the ProVent 200.

All i had to do was rerouting the brake booster line in the back to free up a nice slot in the rear driver side of the block.
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      06-29-2014, 10:37 AM   #20
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So let's dive right in and replace the brake booster line...



Once that was out of the way I was able to move on to more interesting stuff. Just to make sure, I started up the car to ensure the brakes were functioning fine: as expected nothing changed.
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      06-29-2014, 10:39 AM   #21
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The ProVent 200 has the fittings for 1" hose (they are metric, but euqate to about 1") which are way to big. Even the lines BMW uses are 3/4 and at some points they narrow even further (I think it was TDIwyse who posted picture of the section of the snorkel that goes around the oil fill). So I used 3/4" rubber hoses all around.

To connect the 3/4" to the ProVent I sliped a piece of 1" rubber hose over the 3/4" hose, used some gasket adhesive to attach the two together and finished it off with some silicon tape to ensure a strong leak proof bond.

Mock it up and mark...



Apply weatherstrip adhesive...



Push the 3/4" into the 1" up to the mark...



Let it cure a little bit and then apply some silicon tape...



Now on to the bracket to support the ProVent 200
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      06-29-2014, 10:40 AM   #22
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Now that the brake booster line is out of the way I removed the bracket that was holding it...



and used it as a template to make a bracket that would go in the same location to hold the ProVent 200



See if it fits...



And install the ProVent 200...



Next is the takeoff plate
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