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Boost Solenoids - Have you replaced yours?
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02-11-2015, 05:30 AM | #1 |
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Boost Solenoids - Have you replaced yours?
I had recently had a major service done on my car, new waterpump, T/Stat, rocker cover and gasket, oil filter housing gasket, walnut blast, hpfp and fuel it stage 2 lpfp.
On a long trip after some spirited driving on a hot day I had a CEL reduced power error pop up whilst cruising at 110-130km/h for an hour or so. When I got to some twisties the car was bogging down and didn't feel righr. I had put it down to it being a really hot day (40 Deg C+/ over 100 Deg F ambient) I drove home from the trip with no further issues, and didnt push it all that hard from then on. Since my car isn't a daily driver I didnt drive it for a month or so and finally checked the error codes: 2D5A (monitoring motor torque limitation) & 2D2E (angle of throttle valve, intake pipe under pressure) There was quite a few of these codes on the cobb stored. At the time I had a procede installed, and recently had it removed and a cobb E30 OTS map installed. I commenced some logs to send to PTF, and their response back was I was having a boost leak (I was peaking at 12psi) I thought perhaps since I had an intake walnut blast the CP may be loose? I tightened up the clamps on the CP that comes from the FMIC uppipe and went to relog. The car felt like it was bogging down from 2-4k rpm and after 4k rpm it started to boost. Looking at the logs it builds boost slowly and peaks @ 16psi so would this still be a boost leak related issue? PTF replied back that I should check my boost solenoids, as they've experienced these fail on cars with a similiar scenario to what I'm experiencing. Most recent log: Normally I would just take it back to my tuner to resolve, albeit I reside 2 hrs or so away so it would take me 5-6 hrs on a return trip to drop it off and get home and leave it with them for a week then try and get back there to collect the car. So if I take it there and it is the boost solenoids, I will have to order these in whereas I'm thinking perhaps if I order them in myself and attempt to swap them out that I may be able to resolve it myself... Having said that they're quite expensive to replace & from the quick research I've done online most guys who replace their boost solenoids get the underboost error code, albeit I haven't... Advice please so I can get this thing sorted, and start making some decent power via a PTF ETune!! |
02-11-2015, 08:45 PM | #3 |
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Vacuum line leak, boost leak or boost control solenoids. Your wgdc is pegging a high value showing the dme is trying its best to compensate with all the wgdc it has at its disposal and still under targeting quite heavily. Given you've resolved your initial oost leak I'd look over those vacuum hoses and then boost solenoids. See if someone local can lend you theirs just to test.
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02-11-2015, 09:21 PM | #4 |
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My tuner said they're a few hundred dollar's each and in their experience they havent had to replace many solenoids.
Looking online ECS etc they're $150 each x 2 plus P&H to Australia ($350-400) would be quite expensive if it isn't the solenoids... But yeah I maintain my car to a high standard so I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace them with the car coming up to 84000 kms It's a catch 22 situation really, as potentially I could resolve it myself with some new boost solenoids, but then find this didnt resolve my issue and have to take it to my tuner anyway, or I could take it to my tuner and they diagnose the solenoids being faulty and have to leave it there an extra week while i order the solenoids in I'm just trying to get a general consensus if anyone has experienced the issues I had and after replacing the solenoids it resolved the issue. But it seems it isn't as simple as that as there are so many variables that could be root cause... |
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02-11-2015, 09:22 PM | #5 | |
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02-12-2015, 04:21 AM | #7 |
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02-12-2015, 04:23 AM | #8 |
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When i realised my boost solenoids were failing they still held boost perfect but couldn't control vacume and my wastegates rattled.
This was at 100000kms |
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02-12-2015, 07:42 PM | #11 |
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I've replaced a number of the boost control solenoids (BMW calls them EPDWs). Usually this is due to the typical 30FF fault on stock engines, but I've found some to leak without any fault codes or warnings. Since my personal car is an early N54 model, I replaced both of my solenoids with less than 30k miles on the clock. Just for peace of mind really. The part number has changed a zillion times over the years, and that's usually a bad thing.
That said, I'd be looking really closely at all the vacuum lines in the vacuum control system. Valve cover and intake manifold removal means these lines were disturbed. Could be something as simple as a kinked vacuum line. If your car has some mileage on it, I'd seriously consider replacing the lines from the vacuum pump to the canisters. Probably the lines from the canisters to the control solenoids as well.
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02-12-2015, 07:51 PM | #12 |
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I replaced mine not long ago because the car was bogging and building boost slowly. They seem to help my problem. I never got a low boost message. like other have said check vac lines. I bought the Pierburg brand from ecs for $89 each.
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02-26-2015, 04:47 AM | #13 |
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So I got my new solenoids in the mail today and the new ones are missing the cap on the outlet marked as ATM (atmosphere?)
I tried removing them from the old solenoid to transfer to the new solenoid but they arent coming off easily. This pic below is of the old and new solenoid, the old solenoid is marked with a red x below: For you guys who replaced your solenoids did you go without the cap, or do you have to transfer it over on the replacement solenoids? |
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02-26-2015, 06:09 AM | #14 |
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02-26-2015, 06:22 AM | #15 |
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Just decided to buy some rather then stuff around removing yours and than putting them back in etc.
Some guys have mentioned they fail over time especially on older cars, so with my car getting on in the years i replaced them. Sadly I still have a boost leak when i done a log tonight after replacing the boost solenoids |
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04-15-2015, 12:00 PM | #17 |
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hi guys, I've got same problem got code p30ff - I've checked the vacuum lines and my turbos also checked my dp and ic but everything is looking good, so would my next step be to look ove my solenoids? is it just a chance to change them or can u actually see somehow if its something wrong with them?
Also where can i buy them for a good price and where are they on the car, pic would be great! |
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04-15-2015, 03:10 PM | #18 |
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I recently ordered 2 of the Pierburg brand from ECS. Simple install but did not help with the wastegate rattle. It did however give a great increase in pedal response for boost down low and the logs are consistant now that they are new. Boost is on target.
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04-15-2015, 03:17 PM | #19 |
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Well my car doesn't seem to be hitting target boost at all. Map 5 shows 17psi while the car is stuck trying to hit 14.5-15.map7 doesn't do much either. I have alot of rattle coming from my Watergates. Replaced all the vacuum lines last month and that didn't help. Wonder is solenoids would work
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04-26-2015, 06:11 AM | #20 | |
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04-29-2015, 09:40 PM | #21 |
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yes
but issue repaired.was software issue
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