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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Earthquake SWS-8xi 2ohm review
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02-09-2014, 03:55 PM | #27 |
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So the engineer/founder/ceo of earthquake told me he recommends the 8xi's for oem amps/bmw professional and the 8's for an aftermarket amp. Obviously 8xi's can work with some aftermarket amps.
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05-14-2014, 01:44 PM | #28 | |
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01-13-2015, 09:49 AM | #29 |
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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but was wondering if this 8xi sub would be ok with the stock/oem Hi-Fi system/amp? Really trying to find an underseat sub improvment without having to do the aftermarket amp addition
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03-07-2016, 09:22 AM | #30 |
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I only registered to this forum to inform you about the following:
Sorry for pulling this old thread out of it's grave , but: I was working at BMW in Munich the last 11 Years as Resident Eng. and had a chance to talk to the Resident Engineer, who was supporting the L7 Amps. LEAR is the manufacturer of the Logic7 AMP for the E6x and E9x . He told me, that there will be absolutely no Problem in driving 2 Ohm speakers at the (Sub-)Woofer terminals. The amplifier is a Class-D (!) and is specified to drive 2 Ohm speakers. In the case of an shortcut, the amp is trying to reactivate the according output 10 times ( 500ms signal, 500ms off ). After these retries, the output will be switched off and stays off, until you switch off ignition and on again. Also a DTC will be stored in the Amp. If the Amp goes in "overheat", the power ot the outputs will be limited, if the temperature is still rising, the output will be switched off and a DTC will be stored . So it doesn't matter if you use 2 Ohm Subs like the Earthquake XI. |
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03-11-2016, 02:38 PM | #31 | |
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03-18-2016, 09:56 AM | #32 |
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As far as I can see, there is no Problem in using the XI instead of the 4 Ohm .
I'm running them in my E60 for the last two years without any problem. Maybe it's a good idea, to measure the wires to be sure, that they have no contact to ground, before intalling the earthquakes. It's a kind of mess to install them, but the sound is wort it. I needed 2 hours for both speakers, but you have to replace them anyway . Greetings from Munich Uli |
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06-06-2016, 02:59 PM | #33 |
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Sorry to revive this thread. I've had 2 more 335i's since this thread. All had the L7. I ran the 2ohm subs for 2 years without any problem except one time I was driving back from bimmerfest (LA to Bay Area) non stop blasting music and the radio shutoff after about 5 hours of nonstop playing. I felt the amp and it felt decently warm, nothing was burning or melted. Waited 5 min and everything worked fine. Interestingly I had the same thing happen with the stock subs in my current e92. The 2ohms work just fine, I havent been able to find a single documented case of anyones stock amp failing due to a 2ohm aftermarket sub.
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06-07-2016, 08:32 AM | #34 | |
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06-07-2016, 02:32 PM | #35 |
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01-06-2018, 11:00 AM | #36 | |
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I have an 07 e93. How do I know what amp and head unit I have or can I just run the sws-8xi regardless based on these new findings about 2ohm vs 4ohm irrelevance? Thanks in advance |
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01-06-2018, 11:15 AM | #37 |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
bimmerfest stereo http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=ctuna http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1157793 http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ighlight=audio Read the links |
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05-23-2018, 03:42 PM | #38 |
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Went through every thread, have googled everything and am still confused as to what to do here.
I have a blown right side underseat woofer in my Logic 7 E92 system. I am looking for an aftermarket replacement (not OEM due to being burned numerous times by faulty sellers on EBAY) that will run on the OEM L7 amp. Aftermarket speaker(s) with OEM L7 amp. People posting in this thread say that running the 2 ohm (SWS-8xi) is okay and then it says it is not okay, then says it is okay again. I see in other threads that for my logic 7, the 4 ohm (SWS-8x) is necessary for the stock amp. I'm worried that if I buy the 4 ohm, there will be insufficient power for them to even work at all or even be heard. I have a trunk sub taking care of the bass and I do not want to buy another amp to power underseat woofers. I'm looking for a simple aftermarket drop in replacement that doesn't cost me an arm and a leg that can be powered by the L7 amp without damaging it. Any help will greatly be appreciated. |
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05-24-2018, 10:36 AM | #39 | |
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If you operate underseats and a trunk sub like you are, you will always have some cancellations because the frequencies overlap. One solution that works quite well is to use another amp, or one multi-channel amp, to also amplify the underseat OEM woofers, and at the same time separate the signal going to them, so that there is no frequency overlap. So you would split the input signal going to your current amp, which is roughly 30 - 200 Hz, at the sub amp use the low pass crossover and set it around 80Hz, and at the other amp set a high-pass crossover at 80Hz. Then 30 - 80Hz go to the subs, and 80-200Hz to the underseats. The L7 woofers can take around 100 - 150 watts when band passed like that, and they sound pretty good (good kick bass).
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05-25-2018, 08:37 AM | #40 |
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Thanks for the reply.
I'm going to continue to look for a replacement for the awful sounding right underseat woofer I guess. The one I have right now works, but when it hits a hard line of bass, it sounds like it's going to blow up. It makes this awful sound. It's like when you overpower a speaker and it hits, but it's all distorted and awful sounding (not sure what it's called) ... ya, that sound. Anyone know of someone selling one? I just need the speaker, not the whole assembly. Or am I limited only with ebay? My trunk sub sounds great. My question now is this ... I already have a JL amp in the back powering the sub (JL Audio JX250/1 on a 12" W1v3-2) using a Technic PnP harness for my Logic 7 system. Could I get a 500/1 amp and wire it to power both the sub and the underseat woofers? Or should I just get another JX250/1 to power the underseat woofers? Can I link one amp to the other using only the PnP harness? Any suggestions? I'm not trying to spend a lot of money here on this car (it's my daily driver). I'm going to dump a new aftermarket sound system (2 JL 12" W7's with full mid/high replacements on the new vxi amps) in my new M4 so I just want some decent sound from my daily driver E92. Last edited by Alki; 05-25-2018 at 09:38 AM.. |
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05-26-2018, 01:11 PM | #41 |
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^^^ I see they are $50 on eBay. Just throw away the enclosure if you can't find one without.
The signal coming from the Technic harness is stereo. Your amp has a pass-through RCA connection ("pre-outs") and you would simply run another RCA to the new amp. The underseats will sound best in stereo so anything that makes around 75-100 watts per channel will work. Just make sure you set the high pass filter on the new amp (not low-pass) and be conservative with the gains.
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05-26-2018, 02:43 PM | #42 |
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OH my god, I just read this thread.. Based on the email traffic from EQ I don't even think that guy at EQ even knows his products let alone BMWs... 2000w on a pair of SWS.. LOL you will be lucky not to blow them on a true 75w rms.. Dude needs to drop the crack pipe!
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05-29-2018, 03:33 PM | #43 | |
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05-29-2018, 03:44 PM | #44 | |
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In terms of the Earthquakes playing down to 40 hz. The range is set by the stock amp so the stock subs are playing down there too. The frequency range of the sub should be the same, its the resonance frequency that changes when you swap to sws which might sound like they are playing at a different frequency range to the untrained ear. In terms of the phase, you dont adjust the underseats to be in phase with the trunk sub, you adjust the already-aftermarket trunk sub's phase. Setting a range of 80-200hz on the underseats would sound terrible. Yeah a trunk sub will take care of the rest but the OEM underseat enclosure does a really good job of evenly distributing the bass and actually sounds like a more natural setup.
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