[momentum3]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

What’s the history of the car? Looks like the interior was replaced at some point, or this isn’t a US spec vehicle (unlikely).

Car is missing the rear speakers for the Logic 7 system, which was standard on the pre-LCI 335i. Flood/salvage/theft recovery?

Edit: saw your post up there. FYI it looks like your driver side rear door card is off of a different car - I’d inspect the area where the accident was to make sure it was repaired properly (I’ve been through that with my first BMW, a 330Ci. That car was swideswiped and put back together very poorly. Didn’t notice it until a few years on when I noticed the bondo coming apart)

Thank you for the heads up on the rear doors will definitely look deeper.

So, i just did a bit more digging with my local shop and it was purchased in 2007 in Virginia and imported in 2010 to Baltimore from Germany. So who knows at this point lol.

I'm guessing it was an insurance total loss with that side swipe but I don't have the title yet to see if its a salvage title.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by lordnikon

Woah good eye.

OP: Is there a picture of the rear passenger side?

drivers side rear door

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Hey looks like a nice example with a manual, hopefully you got a good deal on it.

For stage 1+ you don't need to get the downpipes, although less restriction is always better either way. If you are doing the upgraded downpipes there is no reason I see not to go with Stage 2+ since at that point you will have all the upgrades required for that version.

I personally have the "high flow" catted VRSF DPs and no complains so far since I didn't want that disgusting smell of the catless DPs.

Also of note, ensure you have no oil leaks in the oil filter housing gasket and valve cover since these cars are notorious for issues with those gaskets. The Oil filter housing gasket being much more important since it can cause the failure of the drive belt and grenade the engine if that belt gets ingested.

It has this exact DP and looks brand new. just matched it up with their website. I do not see any evidence of oil leaks but I need to get it out of limp mode first so that I can get it moving enough to see what leaks. As of now i have not found any signs of oil leak stains in the usual spots you guys warned me about.

[lordnikon]

Originally Posted by momentum3

drivers side rear door

I mean pictures of the passenger side rear door. If that has the silver trim and door speaker, then you can be sure the driver side rear door was swapped from another car.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by lordnikon

I mean pictures of the passenger side rear door. If that has the silver trim and door speaker, then you can be sure the driver side rear door was swapped from another car.

Whoops I knew better than that. How about these?

[lordnikon]

Yeah unfortunately your pictures confirm what I thought. The car was probably damaged on the driver's side rear door and someone swapped it over from another car.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by lordnikon

Yeah unfortunately your pictures confirm what I thought. The car was probably damaged on the driver's side rear door and someone swapped it over from another car.

Missing the sunshade as well on left side rear door.

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by lordnikon

Yeah unfortunately your pictures confirm what I thought. The car was probably damaged on the driver's side rear door and someone swapped it over from another car.

Look at the tail light too - has some barcode on it and no BMW part number. Definitely a replacement.
Could’ve been hit on the rear left. Orange peel on the rear quarter looks off too.

Maybe I’m just being paranoid but I’d look at the rear subframe / trunk pan / quarter to make sure it’s straight and not full of bondo.

[Serf27]

Side skirt is different
Door trim is different
Door wire harness most likely won’t have logic 7 wiring harness
Door window trim is black and not chrome
Tail light aftermarket
Door jamb repainted
Body filler above tail light
Quarter panel to trunk seam sealer is not oem pattern.
Quarter panel paint match does looks very good

Looking at this picture of it: door swapped, quarter panel most likely swapped, it was too crushed and explains the filler/sealer above the light. Wheel looks pretty straight, worst case is a control arm was swapped, damage behind side skirt which may or may not have been fixed. You can see the chrome trim on the door and the sunshade bits as well.
Sucks they did that work and didn’t put the original parts back.

Overall, it looks good now, and if it runs and drives well then great.
Finding the original parts will be easy to do and install.

For now though, I’d remove the side skirt, rear wheel liner, rear bumper, and trunk carpet liner and make sure there isn’t any holes where water can leak into and make sure there is seam sealer wherever 2 welded panels meet.
Take a look at the subframe, but those hardly crack/bend, I’m sure it’s find there. Might find a kinked control arm but I think that’s about it.
Make sure it’s all sealed then move on to everything else discussed in the thread.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Side skirt is different
Door trim is different
Door wire harness most likely won’t have logic 7 wiring harness
Door window trim is black and not chrome
Tail light aftermarket
Door jamb repainted
Body filler above tail light
Quarter panel to trunk seam sealer is not oem pattern.
Quarter panel paint match does looks very good

Looking at this picture of it: door swapped, quarter panel most likely swapped, it was too crushed and explains the filler/sealer above the light. Wheel looks pretty straight, worst case is a control arm was swapped, damage behind side skirt which may or may not have been fixed. You can see the chrome trim on the door and the sunshade bits as well.
Sucks they did that work and didn’t put the original parts back.

Overall, it looks good now, and it runs and drives well then great.
Finding the original parts will be easy to do and install.

For now though, I’d remove the side skirt, rear wheel liner, rear bumper, and trunk carpet liner and make sure there isn’t any holes where water can leak into and make sure there is seam sealer wherever 2 welded panels meet.
Take a look at the subframe, but those hardly crack/bend, I’m sure it’s find there. Might find a kinked control arm but I think that’s about it.
Make sure it’s all sealed then move on to everything else discussed in the thread.

Thank you this is super helpful.

[momentum3]

Tension pulley broken and belt was off. Knocking noise gone. Also while making this repair I noticed the only oil leak is coming from Oil Cap so I ordered a new one of those.

[Serf27]

The caps don’t leak(unless broken), it’s the o ring that leaks.
You might as well change the oil and filter while doing that.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by Serf27

The caps don’t leak(unless broken), it’s the o ring that leaks.
You might as well change the oil and filter while doing that.

ah gotcha. So I can just replace the O ring? It doesn't appear to be broken on the plastic just leaking.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by momentum3

ah gotcha. So I can just replace the O ring? It doesn't appear to be broken on the plastic just leaking.

There is 2 o rings.
The large one around the cap and a small one on the filter cage.
I’d replace both+filter and oil.
Don’t confuse that leak with a leaking filter housing gasket.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by Serf27

There is 2 o rings.
The large one around the cap and a small one on the filter cage.
I’d replace both+filter and oil.
Don’t confuse that leak with a leaking filter housing gasket.

Oil filter housing is not leaking, yet anyways.

[Serf27]

I see it was replaced about 40kish miles ago by bmw.
It should be good for a while, but when or if you do walnut blasting, that is the time to change it as the n54 ofh can only be removed with the manifold loose or removed. Replacing the starter would be good while the manifold off too. I don’t see you mentioning it had been replaced.
Nothing will leave you stranded faster than a dead starter.

For OBD, I like using the protools app.
It’s a bit pricey up front but it will help you the entire time you have the car.

[momentum3]

Originally Posted by Serf27

I see it was replaced about 40kish miles ago by bmw.
It should be good for a while, but when or if you do walnut blasting, that is the time to change it as the n54 ofh can only be removed with the manifold loose or removed. Replacing the starter would be good while the manifold off too. I don’t see you mentioning it had been replaced.
Nothing will leave you stranded faster than a dead starter.

For OBD, I like using the protools app.
It’s a bit pricey up front but it will help you the entire time you have the car.

Protools looks excellent. Ty.

[momentum3]

Was able to get some work in this morning before I melted in this heat. Here's what I'm working on in the immediate that i confirmed needs replaced. plus getting ready for all the stuff you guys are suggesting

6 Eldor coils
Tensioner pulley + serpatine belt
AC compressor
Oil Cap
H8 Battery -


Making progress. Thanks so much guys. Having fun. Been too long since I did a project

[momentum3]

Managed to finish the coils, plugs, tensioner pulley and belt today.

Going to do oil change and fire it up and see how we are looking