[Leanped]

Hi all, I want to run the RSA delete batch file and 325-330 conversion tune on bimmerlabs but after reading a lot of forum posts, I see a lot of ways it goes wrong, so I have a few questions.

I know this is a repeat of what others have posted about, but I think some questions haven't been answered fully.

1. Bimmerlabs says to leave the EC-APPS, EDIABA, and NCSEXPER folders alone and not replace them like the Bimmergeeks install says. When I do this, my winkfp looks fine but I attached a screenshot of what my inpa looks like. My worry is that winkfp will also be set up wrong but I have no way of knowing since Bimmerlabs doesn't mention INPA so I don't know if that's normal. Do I just do what bimmerlabs says to set up my standard tools? Will that version of winkfp be fine?

1.5 If I replace only the INPA file with the bimmergeeks version, both winkfp and INPA look normal. If I replace everything like Bimmergeeks says, winkfp gets 4 errors and won't start: Codes 1020, 1040, 3017, and 9960, which I have head of before but make me think Bimmerlabs was right in saying to not delete any files. I'm also worried about having to import P-SGBD and PABD files because it says you can just leave winkfp alone if you don't delete anything. I'd like to keep it simple if possible.

2. I have seen multiple people say their car goes into limp mode with the 2FA4 error due to mismatched powerclasses. I assume this is because you are putting a tune from a DME with powerclass 02 on a car with modules set to 00 (in my case 00, in 328 01). Is there any way of opening the conversion tune and checking the powerclass? I've heard it can be changed in NCSexpert but I don't know how to do that and don't want to put my car in limp mode to find out. I can't attach the tune files here but if someone thinks they can take a look I'll try to upload them elsewhere and post a link. To put it shortly, how do I make sure I don't get the 2FA4 error?

3. I've heard that sometimes the batch file will error out at the end and it can be caused by bad drivers and potentially a VIN error. I am using a bimmergeeks cable and changed my driver to the 2.8.28.0 from 2013 because I saw a guy who said that fixed his issue. I find it weird to use an older driver so I was wondering if that's correct or if I should let it auto update to whatever newer version windows has. Regarding the VIN error, I see how you can enter a VIN in comfort mode, but the bimmerlabs instructions say to run the batch file with all programs closed. How do I put my VIN in winkfp if I have to start the process with winkfp closed?

4. Lastly, dumb question, but in my car, when you stick the key in with the door open, it will start beeping and it never stops. If you close the door, you can't get the cable from the OBD to the computer. If you push the key in and then hit the start button but not let it crank, all the electrical equipment turns on (radios, lights, etc.) and it doesn't beep at all with the door open. Which is correct for flashing? I'm worried the key beeping would cause the DME to brick because I've heard there should be absolutely nothing running while flashing.


I realized this is a long post but I think if these questions are answered, no one will be confused anymore. Thank you so much for any help. Let me know if there's more screenshots or files you need.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Leanped

Hi all, I want to run the RSA delete batch file and 325-330 conversion tune on bimmerlabs but after reading a lot of forum posts, I see a lot of ways it goes wrong, so I have a few questions.

I know this is a repeat of what others have posted about, but I think some questions haven't been answered fully.

1. Bimmerlabs says to leave the EC-APPS, EDIABA, and NCSEXPER folders alone and not replace them like the Bimmergeeks install says. When I do this, my winkfp looks fine but I attached a screenshot of what my inpa looks like. My worry is that winkfp will also be set up wrong but I have no way of knowing since Bimmerlabs doesn't mention INPA so I don't know if that's normal. Do I just do what bimmerlabs says to set up my standard tools? Will that version of winkfp be fine?

It doesn't say do not replace them. It says do not *delete* them. You should copy the new folders over per the BG instructions, but skip the part where it says to delete them.

1.5 If I replace only the INPA file with the bimmergeeks version, both winkfp and INPA look normal. If I replace everything like Bimmergeeks says, winkfp gets 4 errors and won't start: Codes 1020, 1040, 3017, and 9960, which I have head of before but make me think Bimmerlabs was right in saying to not delete any files. I'm also worried about having to import P-SGBD and PABD files because it says you can just leave winkfp alone if you don't delete anything. I'd like to keep it simple if possible.

If you delete the folders without importing the P-SGBD and PABD files, then it will not work. But there's no reason to delete the folders first, they already have the required P-SGBD and PABD files. And Bimmerlabs doesn't require you to have any Daten files since it has it's own; you can of course import them. But you need the *.ipo and *.ips files as a minimum for flashing to work.

2. I have seen multiple people say their car goes into limp mode with the 2FA4 error due to mismatched powerclasses. I assume this is because you are putting a tune from a DME with powerclass 02 on a car with modules set to 00 (in my case 00, in 328 01). Is there any way of opening the conversion tune and checking the powerclass? I've heard it can be changed in NCSexpert but I don't know how to do that and don't want to put my car in limp mode to find out. I can't attach the tune files here but if someone thinks they can take a look I'll try to upload them elsewhere and post a link. To put it shortly, how do I make sure I don't get the 2FA4 error?

You would get 2FA4 if you flashed an *unmodified* 330i file to your car. The whole point of the 325 to 330i flash is that it will work on your car without any errors. You can't change the powerclass on the DME, it's locked after 10 hours. Sometimes you might get 2FA3, but this is literally meaningless and causes no problems - you can make it go away by default coding the DME if you like (which literally changes nothing, except making the error go away).

3. I've heard that sometimes the batch file will error out at the end and it can be caused by bad drivers and potentially a VIN error. I am using a bimmergeeks cable and changed my driver to the 2.8.28.0 from 2013 because I saw a guy who said that fixed his issue. I find it weird to use an older driver so I was wondering if that's correct or if I should let it auto update to whatever newer version windows has. Regarding the VIN error, I see how you can enter a VIN in comfort mode, but the bimmerlabs instructions say to run the batch file with all programs closed. How do I put my VIN in winkfp if I have to start the process with winkfp closed?

Windows 10 updates are sometimes problematic. I haven't had this issue but it's plausible that a driver update broke something (happens all the time at work). As far as entering your VIN number, that is in Comfort mode. you shouldn't need to do this - errors with the batch flash are extremely low.

4. Lastly, dumb question, but in my car, when you stick the key in with the door open, it will start beeping and it never stops. If you close the door, you can't get the cable from the OBD to the computer. If you push the key in and then hit the start button but not let it crank, all the electrical equipment turns on (radios, lights, etc.) and it doesn't beep at all with the door open. Which is correct for flashing? I'm worried the key beeping would cause the DME to brick because I've heard there should be absolutely nothing running while flashing.

There's no reason to worry about flashing your car with the door open. alternatively, you could open the window, or use a laptop and leave it on the passenger seat. I usually turn everything off (lights, radio, fan, etc), but the door gong is just annoying, it's not going to cause an issue.

[Leanped]

Thank you for responding hass, I just have some last things to clarify.

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

It doesn't say do not replace them. It says do not *delete* them. You should copy the new folders over per the BG instructions, but skip the part where it says to delete them.

In step 4 of the BG instructions, it say to replace those files. If I skip the deleting part, when I move thoseBG files over to my C drive and Windows gives the "Do you want to replace or skip the 2,000 files with the same name" message, I should just replace them, right? Just want to make sure I understand you.

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

If you delete the folders without importing the P-SGBD and PABD files, then it will not work. But there's no reason to delete the folders first, they already have the required P-SGBD and PABD files. And Bimmerlabs doesn't require you to have any Daten files since it has it's own; you can of course import them. But you need the *.ipo and *.ips files as a minimum for flashing to work.

If I don't delete any folders, do I need to import anything into winkfp? I'm confused about the "needing .ipo and .ips files" part. You mean to say that's taken care of by not deleting the files, right? I'm not good with computers so I'm sorry I'm repeating myself.


Lastly, regarding drivers, if I use an older version of the driver that is a known working driver, that's better than the automatic driver Windows gives, right? You said Windows sometimes screws up so if I use a driver that worked before, it will still work now, right?


Thanks again for your response and apologies for my lack of computer-related knowledge.

[E92William]

I will have to rewatch my video on this but maybe I said something that insinuated that you have to delete the files before bringing he bimmergeeks download ones in to the C drive. Which probably isn't good as people are gonna have issues with the bmw tools setup if they go word by word. Hopefully I didn't.

I know I did everything as per bimmerlabs and bimmergeeks and had no issues with the icons. Just skip the file delete in the install and move over to C the bimmergeeks download files.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I

You would get 2FA4 if you flashed an *unmodified* 330i file to your car. The whole point of the 325 to 330i flash is that it will work on your car without any errors. You can't change the powerclass on the DME, it's locked after 10 hours. Sometimes you might get 2FA3, but this is literally meaningless and causes no problems - you can make it go away by default coding the DME if you like (which literally changes nothing, except making the error go away).

huh.
I've had that improper coding error since I did it, and just never thought about it as it doesn't cause issue.

but now I may have to default code it in the ncsexpert and have no errors in the car.

thanks.

[Leucosticte]

wouldn't it be possible to modify the powerclass in the CAS in order to get rid of the 2FA4 code?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by nsjames

huh.
I've had that improper coding error since I did it, and just never thought about it as it doesn't cause issue.

but now I may have to default code it in the ncsexpert and have no errors in the car.

thanks.

Not sure why I thought you had done it when I did awhile back. It was one of those "wow, that simple?" kinda things.

[Leanped]

Update: I followed the advice here and everything worked out. I got several errors from the flash the first time I tried it, but I believe that was from using the newer driver rather than the old one, coupled maybe with the fact I was only using the first stage of ignition.

Swapped drivers, pushed the botton for second stage, and it flashed back to stock. Then did it again for the RSA delete and tune. Car works perfectly, no lights. Thanks guys.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Leanped

Update: I followed the advice here and everything worked out. I got several errors from the flash the first time I tried it, but I believe that was from using the newer driver rather than the old one, coupled maybe with the fact I was only using the first stage of ignition.

Swapped drivers, pushed the botton for second stage, and it flashed back to stock. Then did it again for the RSA delete and tune. Car works perfectly, no lights. Thanks guys.

Default code your DME so you don't come back asking what is 2FA3 (its nothing btw).