[Beasters]

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a 2008 335xi awd 6speed manual. Did a boost leak test today and found a large boost leak at the turbo rear inlet adapter. The owner installed an VRSF 2” rear inlet and used a 1.75” adapter to connect to the turbo. I tried tightening the clamp that connects to the adapter with 4 extensions and a 7mm socket but it’s as tight as I can get it. Still leaking just as bad. Seems like a nightmare to get to.. I think I would have to remove the VRSF downpipes to get to this rear inlet adapter.. this thing is leaking and I can hear it with only 5 psi.. what’s weird is the adapter seems to be installed very securely and the previous owner said he is surprised the adapter could be leaking with how solid it was attached to the turbo.

See the attached video. Let me know any thoughts.. can
I still drive the car like this? Should I stay out of boost? Any insight would be great. If it were me I would have just installed the 1.75 inlets from vrsf so I wouldn’t have to worry about this adapter situation.

https://youtube.com/shorts/C70brEu6N...jLRM6AJaPpFjEd

[JimThot]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a 2008 335xi awd 6speed manual. Did a boost leak test today and found a large boost leak at the turbo rear inlet adapter. The owner installed an VRSF 2” rear inlet and used a 1.75” adapter to connect to the turbo. I tried tightening the clamp that connects to the adapter with 4 extensions and a 7mm socket but it’s as tight as I can get it. Still leaking just as bad. Seems like a nightmare to get to.. I think I would have to remove the VRSF downpipes to get to this rear inlet adapter.. this thing is leaking and I can hear it with only 5 psi.. what’s weird is the adapter seems to be installed very securely and the previous owner said he is surprised the adapter could be leaking with how solid it was attached to the turbo.

See the attached video. Let me know any thoughts.. can
I still drive the car like this? Should I stay out of boost? Any insight would be great. If it were me I would have just installed the 1.75 inlets from vrsf so I wouldn’t have to worry about this adapter situation.

https://youtube.com/shorts/C70brEu6N...jLRM6AJaPpFjEd

could the clamp possibly cut the adapter? is it made out of silicone? I’ve heard people say on this forum that they are really hard to get a good seal around the turbo inlet sometimes

[TiAgAu]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a 2008 335xi awd 6speed manual. Did a boost leak test today and found a large boost leak at the turbo rear inlet adapter. The owner installed an VRSF 2” rear inlet and used a 1.75” adapter to connect to the turbo. I tried tightening the clamp that connects to the adapter with 4 extensions and a 7mm socket but it’s as tight as I can get it. Still leaking just as bad. Seems like a nightmare to get to.. I think I would have to remove the VRSF downpipes to get to this rear inlet adapter.. this thing is leaking and I can hear it with only 5 psi.. what’s weird is the adapter seems to be installed very securely and the previous owner said he is surprised the adapter could be leaking with how solid it was attached to the turbo.

See the attached video. Let me know any thoughts.. can
I still drive the car like this? Should I stay out of boost? Any insight would be great. If it were me I would have just installed the 1.75 inlets from vrsf so I wouldn’t have to worry about this adapter situation.

https://youtube.com/shorts/C70brEu6N...jLRM6AJaPpFjEd

Well spotted! I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Didn't find any other leaks after turbos? The inlets are not under boost pressure it's sucking air in and merely a connection to your intake. After it goes though the turbos then out your outlets then it's under pressure under boost at boost.

If you can log it would be good to see how it's running.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by TiAgAu

Well spotted! I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Didn't find any other leaks after turbos? The inlets are not under boost pressure it's sucking air in and merely a connection to your intake. After it goes though the turbos then out your outlets then it's under pressure under boost at boost.

If you can log it would be good to see how it's running.

I will make a log today and upload. I wasn’t thinking about it being on the intake. That does make me feel better about it. Honestly, when I did the test, the boost was so loud I wasn’t really focused on anything else. Thank you guys for your help. I really appreciate it. Maybe I’m better off doing smoke tests with this adapter leak situation going forward.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by TiAgAu

Well spotted! I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Didn't find any other leaks after turbos? The inlets are not under boost pressure it's sucking air in and merely a connection to your intake. After it goes though the turbos then out your outlets then it's under pressure under boost at boost.

If you can log it would be good to see how it's running.

Here is a log of a 3rd gear pull I did today. I uploaded to data zap.
https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...=0&data=3-4-20

I’m new to all this so let me know if there is something else I should be showing in these logs. If you could like me know how this looks. I’m thinking about replacing my boost solenoids to see if that helps hold the boost bettter but overall the car feels good.

It’s tuned on mhd stage 2+ bigger FMIC, intake cones, front and rear inlets, charge pipe and box

Any input on how the cars running would be great. I hoping to understand what’s right and wrong from lookin at these logs over time.

Thanks!

[Beasters]

bump

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

bump

Log looks Ok-ish. I personally do not like V10. You can see it requests the same boost target flat to redline. Your Oem turbos cannot keep up with this. You can see the boost dropping halfway through the logs and your waste gate duty slowly going up trying to work the turbos harder to meet the target. You either have a small boost leak or just the oem turbos running out of steam and over working them in the higher rpm’s.
I personally like v7 (my favourite) or v9 is good too. Their boost target tapers towards redline which keeps the small oem turbos happy.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Your boost solenoids are also fine since you are able to meet target. Holding target boost has nothing to do with the solenoids.
Also keep in mind none of these tunes take upgraded inlets into count. Once you have upgrades inlets a custom tune is always best.
Some people overshoot target with these inlets and may trip a code but I don’t think you have that issue.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Your boost solenoids are also fine since you are able to meet target. Holding target boost has nothing to do with the solenoids.
Also keep in mind none of these tunes take upgraded inlets into count. Once you have upgrades inlets a custom tune is always best.
Some people overshoot target with these inlets and may trip a code but I don’t think you have that issue.

Bimmer Bro, Thank you so much for the response. I really appreciate the insite! I’m still learning how to read these values. I see what you mean about the wastegate base value % continuing to rise throughout the rpms to redline while the boost level peaks around 18psi and slowly tapers as it gets closer to redline. Seems like the stock turbos also take time to build boost compared to what this “boost Target”, is set to early in the rpm range. I have not had any codes trip at all. That’s interesting that v7 is better for the stock turbos. I’m always thinking the latest version the better, guess not always! I will make this switch right away (I have mhd super license) running stage 2+ on 93 octane.

Also I noticed some timing corrections happening on different cylinders in this log. Any big deal? I’ve read adding a couple gallons of e85 to a full tank of 93 octane can help reduce timing corrections? Also any opinions about running e30 tune on stock turbos/ stock fuel pumps? Again I’m a newb, but I used to own an Evo 8 for a few years so I do understand good amount.

Just purchased this car a week ago. It’s an 08 335xi at 99k miles.. I’m assuming the turbos are factory. Thanks again for all your help my bimmer brother!

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Bimmer Bro, Thank you so much for the response. I really appreciate the insite! I’m still learning how to read these values. I see what you mean about the wastegate base value % continuing to rise throughout the rpms to redline while the boost level peaks around 18psi and slowly tapers as it gets closer to redline. Seems like the stock turbos also take time to build boost compared to what this “boost Target”, is set to early in the rpm range. I have not had any codes trip at all. That’s interesting that v7 is better for the stock turbos. I’m always thinking the latest version the better, guess not always! I will make this switch right away (I have mhd super license) running stage 2+ on 93 octane.

Also I noticed some timing corrections happening on different cylinders in this log. Any big deal? I’ve read adding a couple gallons of e85 to a full tank of 93 octane can help reduce timing corrections? Also any opinions about running e30 tune on stock turbos/ stock fuel pumps? Again I’m a newb, but I used to own an Evo 8 for a few years so I do understand good amount.

Just purchased this car a week ago. It’s an 08 335xi at 99k miles.. I’m assuming the turbos are factory. Thanks again for all your help my bimmer brother!

No problem.
It is taking a little longer than it should to reach peak boost (target) and obviously not able to maintain it either. I would definitely double check for boost leaks. Most common places are the connections to the intercooler , charge pipe to throttle body and check the map sensor on the charge pipe. Those can cause a boost leak if the rubber ring is pinched or cracked.
I would avoid any ethonal on factory fuel pumps, it will drag them down too much. If you have upgraded fuel pumps then you could run one of the ethonal maps. You do have timing corrections but they are nothing crazy. An off the shelf tune is not going to be perfect for every car.

-Hunt down some boost leaks
-Give version 9 or 7 a try they are both good and a little easier on oem turbos. 9 makes slightly more power than 7 but I enjoy the boost curve of 7 more. It’s a kick in the pants.
After that do another 3rd gear log. Make sure tc is off as it will prevent throttle closures in the log.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

No problem.
It is taking a little longer than it should to reach peak boost (target) and obviously not able to maintain it either. I would definitely double check for boost leaks. Most common places are the connections to the intercooler , charge pipe to throttle body and check the map sensor on the charge pipe. Those can cause a boost leak if the rubber ring is pinched or cracked.
I would avoid any ethonal on factory fuel pumps, it will drag them down too much. If you have upgraded fuel pumps then you could run one of the ethonal maps. You do have timing corrections but they are nothing crazy. An off the shelf tune is not going to be perfect for every car.

-Hunt down some boost leaks
-Give version 9 or 7 a try they are both good and a little easier on oem turbos. 9 makes slightly more power than 7 but I enjoy the boost curve of 7 more. It’s a kick in the pants.
After that do another 3rd gear log. Make sure tc is off as it will prevent throttle closures in the log.

I shall do it! I’ll post again when I get a chance to do a boost leak test. Probably won’t be for a week or so before I’ll have another chance. I’ll post a 3rd gear pull after I double check everything and I’ll experiment with v7 and v9. Thanks Again!!!

[TiAgAu]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Here is a log of a 3rd gear pull I did today. I uploaded to data zap.
https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...=0&data=3-4-20

I’m new to all this so let me know if there is something else I should be showing in these logs. If you could like me know how this looks. I’m thinking about replacing my boost solenoids to see if that helps hold the boost bettter but overall the car feels good.

It’s tuned on mhd stage 2+ bigger FMIC, intake cones, front and rear inlets, charge pipe and box

Any input on how the cars running would be great. I hoping to understand what’s right and wrong from lookin at these logs over time.

Thanks!

Log looks good! Boost and fuelling are spot on. Some timing corrections though, could be just fuel quality.

You wont hold boost any better than that up top with stock turbos even though the target calls for 18.6psi. 15psi @ 6000rpm is usually the norm/max for stage 2+ over that they are out there efficiency zone anyway. No boost leaks looks healthy to me.

[dmckmc]

Also any opinions about running e30 tune on stock turbos/ stock fuel pumps?

I routinely run ethanol tune with e40-45 on stock fuel pumps and turbo...Amazing difference in power. Over e45 and the low pressure pump will give up.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by dmckmc

I routinely run ethanol tune with e40-45 on stock fuel pumps and turbo...Amazing difference in power. Over e45 and the low pressure pump will give up.

So I haven’t changed the tune at all since my previous log. Today was pretty cold compared (like 35 degrees out this morning) compared to the first log I posted earlier in this thread (probably around 60 degrees)

I did a hard 2nd gear WOT pull when I wasn’t logging of course and the car built boost and took off no problem but shortly after maybe around 5k rpm fell flat on it face.

I had no power at all but had no check engine light pop up on the dash or anything. Car was running really rough at idle.

Got to a stop light and turned the car off and back on and everything went back to normal. I checked the codes with MHD and I had 3 new codes

29DC - DME: Cylinder injection cutout.
2C77 - DME: Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter: Signal.
2C78 - DME: Oxygen sensor 2 after catalytic converter: Signal.

I reset these codes and restarted the car and all adaptations and everything seems back to normal.

I did a very short 3rd gear pull and let off pretty early just to be careful. Here the short log. I’ve read that these codes could mean that the HPFP is going out?

Please let me know your thoughts guys.
Thanks!

https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...og=0&data=3-21

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

So I haven’t changed the tune at all since my previous log. Today was pretty cold compared (like 35 degrees out this morning) compared to the first log I posted earlier in this thread (probably around 60 degrees)

I did a hard 2nd gear WOT pull when I wasn’t logging of course and the car built boost and took off no problem but shortly after maybe around 5k rpm fell flat on it face.

I had no power at all but had no check engine light pop up on the dash or anything. Car was running really rough at idle.

Got to a stop light and turned the car off and back on and everything went back to normal. I checked the codes with MHD and I had 3 new codes

29DC - DME: Cylinder injection cutout.
2C77 - DME: Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter: Signal.
2C78 - DME: Oxygen sensor 2 after catalytic converter: Signal.

I reset these codes and restarted the car and all adaptations and everything seems back to normal.

I did a very short 3rd gear pull and let off pretty early just to be careful. Here the short log. I’ve read that these codes could mean that the HPFP is going out?

Please let me know your thoughts guys.
Thanks!

https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...og=0&data=3-21

You over boosted in 2nd gear. This is the issue of having bigger turbo inlets but using an OTS map. Car basically threw itself into a fail safe mode to prevent damage.
You will most likely need a custom tune. I suggest going to version 9 or 7. Since they are a little less aggressive it will help you in the mean time.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

You over boosted in 2nd gear. This is the issue of having bigger turbo inlets but using an OTS map. Car basically threw itself into a fail safe mode to prevent damage.
You will most likely need a custom tune. I suggest going to version 9 or 7. Since they are a little less aggressive it will help you in the mean time.

Hey Bimmer Bro, that makes sense. I have gone ahead and flashed to MHD V7.1 with 93 octane and I just did a 3rd gear pull. I can understand what you mean about the “kick in the pants” on v7.1. 2nd gear feels very strong!

Please see the log on datazap
https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...44-45-46-47-49

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Hey Bimmer Bro, that makes sense. I have gone ahead and flashed to MHD V7.1 with 93 octane and I just did a 3rd gear pull. I can understand what you mean about the “kick in the pants” on v7.1. 2nd gear feels very strong!

Please see the log on datazap
https://datazap.me/u/beasters/log-17...44-45-46-47-49

Log looks good! Turbos pair up with that boost curve much better than the flat target on V10.
I think you are on the right map. It doesn’t usually say the “+”. This is the same map and fuel version I run.
The only thing I can see is the low pressure fuel pump is starting to get a little tired. Dipping into low 50s. It’s ok for now but once it start dropping into the 40s you may want to replace. 65-85psi is ideal.

This should work for you for now. Keep on mind that hard second gear pulls with your inlets may trigger limp mode. I would plan for a custom tune in the future.

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Log looks good! Turbos pair up with that boost curve much better than the flat target on V10.
I think you are on the right map. It doesn’t usually say the “+”. This is the same map and fuel version I run.
The only thing I can see is the low pressure fuel pump is starting to get a little tired. Dipping into low 50s. It’s ok for now but once it start dropping into the 40s you may want to replace. 65-85psi is ideal.

This should work for you for now. Keep on mind that hard second gear pulls with your inlets may trigger limp mode. I would plan for a custom tune in the future.

Thank you Bimmer Bro for the feedback on this log! At first I was second guessing if it was a stage 2+ or not because I noticed the log didn’t say + but I checked my flash and it is in fact on stage 2+. I really appreciate you mentioning the lpfp. At this stage I don’t know what numbers are good or bad. I am learning so much everyday about these cars. Really cool how much data these bmws gave from the factory. Like for my old Evo 8 I had to install an afr gauge and o2 sensor just to be able to log afr’s in my pulls. These car just have that ability out of the box.. and so much more.. really cool stuff. For the future, is there a remote customer tuner that you recommend?? Seems hard to justify spending the money on a tune when I have super license for MHD that the previous owner gave me with the car but if you think it’s needed with the inlets I will plan on it. Thanks again for all your time and knowledge!!!

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

Thank you Bimmer Bro for the feedback on this log! At first I was second guessing if it was a stage 2+ or not because I noticed the log didn’t say + but I checked my flash and it is in fact on stage 2+. I really appreciate you mentioning the lpfp. At this stage I don’t know what numbers are good or bad. I am learning so much everyday about these cars. Really cool how much data these bmws gave from the factory. Like for my old Evo 8 I had to install an afr gauge and o2 sensor just to be able to log afr’s in my pulls. These car just have that ability out of the box.. and so much more.. really cool stuff. For the future, is there a remote customer tuner that you recommend?? Seems hard to justify spending the money on a tune when I have super license for MHD that the previous owner gave me with the car but if you think it’s needed with the inlets I will plan on it. Thanks again for all your time and knowledge!!!

I hear ya! I had a stage 2 STI years ago. Modern cars monitor everything and more flexibly with direct injection. Plus MHD is great.
There are tons of great tuners online, I’m not sure off the top of my head tho. I have always been fine with the off the shelf maps. You may have no issues now but if it keeps happening it’s because of your inlets. So see how it goes for a while. V7 is great.
No problem at all, glad I could help

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

I hear ya! I had a stage 2 STI years ago. Modern cars monitor everything and more flexibly with direct injection. Plus MHD is great.
There are tons of great tuners online, I’m not sure off the top of my head tho. I have always been fine with the off the shelf maps. You may have no issues now but if it keeps happening it’s because of your inlets. So see how it goes for a while. V7 is great.
No problem at all, glad I could help

I will keep a close eye and see if I have this overboost issue anymore. I still plan to do a boost leak test in a week or so on my next day off work and I’ll post a log on v7, if I find any leaks at all. Thank you my bimmer brother!

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by Beasters

I will keep a close eye and see if I have this overboost issue anymore. I still plan to do a boost leak test in a week or so on my next day off work and I’ll post a log on v7, if I find any leaks at all. Thank you my bimmer brother!

No problem. I doubt you will find much as your log looks good.
Are you manual or auto btw?

[Beasters]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

No problem. I doubt you will find much as your log looks good.
Are you manual or auto btw?

Thank you for saying that about the boost leaks, good to know the car is performing as it should. This car is a 2008 e92 335xi 6 speed manual