[jwebb335xi]

Hey guys,

By way of background, I have a 2008 335xi. Its nearly FBO, but the suspension it completely stock except for the Bilstein HDs I installed this past week. I had an alignment performed at the shop my local Indy (who has treated me pretty well over the past few years) recommends and uses here locally - instead of the dealership.

Now, for the details. When I brought the car in, the rear was all in spec and they adjusted it slightly to better match L and R sides. That seems just fine for a DD. I don't AUTO-X this car nor do I take it to the track, though I'm tempted after having been a guest at two events last year in other cars. The front right, is out of spec with 0.5* total camber on the right. And, camber is just barely in spec on the left.

So, I think my options are: (1) ignore the issue and let my tires (both winter and summer) wear unevenly and lose some cornering capability; (2) go over everything I did with the install to see if there's ANYTHING that might get that right side back in spec - though I can't imagine what's wrong (the mount is flush at top and the strut is fully seated as best I can tell - I mean, I felt it bottom out when sliding it into the knuckle/pinch bolt housing). I triple checked and everything appear to sit as it should; (3) loosen the right strut nuts, drop the assembly a bit, dremmel out the alignment pin and reassemble - sliding the assembly toward the engine as far (4-5 mm, I suppose) as it will go and call it a day; or, (4) find a camber kit, pay, install, re-aling.... Again, this is a DD.

I'd appreciate any thoughts.

[feuer]

First thing I would do and have done literally hundreds of alignments (I use to for for Indy that used Firestone for alignment and I was assigned to shuttle the cars back and forth) is to get a second opinion. Is quite possible that the alignment rack is out of calibration. Even if it is not is also quite possible for the same car to get two different readings on the same alignment rack just by going up and down on the rack twice in the a row. So before you rush into doing anything mechanically on your car get another alignment reading. Most places will do it for free.

[rothwem]

On my strut mounts, I was able to loosen the three bolts and put a 3mm allen wrench in the alignment pin/stud and twist it out. Its an aluminum stud and hex head though, so its very easy to strip, that's why most people drill them out.

You need to loosen the three bolts though, or you'll DEFINITELY strip out the head of the stud.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by rothwem

On my strut mounts, I was able to loosen the three bolts and put a 3mm allen wrench in the alignment pin/stud and twist it out. Its an aluminum stud and hex head though, so its very easy to strip, that's why most people drill them out.

You need to loosen the three bolts though, or you'll DEFINITELY strip out the head of the stud.

Looked at it over lunch. Definitely small hex and it looks like aluminum. When you say to loosen the (3) strut mount bolts, do you mean that I should put the car on stands and let that side hang so there's NO pressure on those bolts or would a couple turns with the car on the ground do? Heck, even if the hex strips, I might be able to run the thing out with vice grip, pliers and some luck....

[bNks334]

I am confused. Did the person performing the alignment state that the camber can't be adjusted? What is the issue and/or goal here?

Adding negative camber is going to increase your toe. If you remove the alignment pins on the strut mounts then you're going to need to get the car back on an alignment rack, at which point you can ask for whatever alignment specs you want. You should be able to get -.7* or more of negative camber with the alignment pins removed, but it shouldn't be necessary to do just to get the camber in spec...

[joshe92]

Firestone gives free lifetime alignment for one vehicle for $150

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by bNks334

I am confused. Did the person performing the alignment state that the camber can't be adjusted? What is the issue and/or goal here?

Adding negative camber is going to increase your toe. If you remove the alignment pins on the strut mounts then you're going to need to get the car back on an alignment rack, at which point you can ask for whatever alignment specs you want. You should be able to get -.7* or more of negative camber with the alignment pins removed, but it shouldn't be necessary to do just to get the camber in spec...

My "goal" was to get the right front into spec. When the alignment was done on Thursday, I was told they could not adjust camber, that it was just out of spec, but toe was way off. They dialed in the rear AND did toe up front, but the right front camber is slightly positive (0.5*) but it should be slightly negative (between -0.1 and -.08). So, my "concern" is that the car is a little out of spec and may give uneven tire wear, etc..

[bNks334]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

My "goal" was to get the right front into spec. When the alignment was done on Thursday, I was told they could not adjust camber, that it was just out of spec, but toe was way off. They dialed in the rear AND did toe up front, but the right front camber is slightly positive (0.5*) but it should be slightly negative (between -0.1 and -.08). So, my "concern" is that the car is a little out of spec and may give uneven tire wear, etc..

Ok, thanks for clarifying. If your car is out of spec and the alignment shop is stating they can't get it aligned then they either aren't very good or something is bent. Cant think of any other reason your car is seeing positive camber without cause and without being able to adjust it further. Again, you shouldn't need to delete the alignment pins just to get the car into spec.

Maybe you bent a control arm? I think that spending money on M3 control arms (gain -.7) might be a better way to fix the positive camber issue than camber plates. Adjustable plates will cost you just as much and you might still have a bent control arm or something. I'd consult another shop on what might be the cause of the car not being in spec. Either way, good luck!

[miker2013]

did u install stock springs? can u give a quick assessment of the ride quality and handling before and after the hd install? thanks

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by bNks334

Ok, thanks for clarifying. If your car is out of spec and the alignment shop is stating they can't get it aligned then they either aren't very good or something is bent. Cant think of any other reason your car is seeing positive camber without cause and without being able to adjust it further. Again, you shouldn't need to delete the alignment pins just to get the car into spec.

Maybe you bent a control arm? I think that spending money on M3 control arms (gain -.7) might be a better way to fix the positive camber issue than camber plates. Adjustable plates will cost you just as much and you might still have a bent control arm or something. I'd consult another shop on what might be the cause of the car not being in spec. Either way, good luck!

OP Has Xdrive so M3 Control Arms aren't going to work...

[rothwem]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Looked at it over lunch. Definitely small hex and it looks like aluminum. When you say to loosen the (3) strut mount bolts, do you mean that I should put the car on stands and let that side hang so there's NO pressure on those bolts or would a couple turns with the car on the ground do? Heck, even if the hex strips, I might be able to run the thing out with vice grip, pliers and some luck....

No, do it while the vehicle is on the ground. You'll probably need another alignment after you do this though.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by bNks334

Ok, thanks for clarifying. If your car is out of spec and the alignment shop is stating they can't get it aligned then they either aren't very good or something is bent. Cant think of any other reason your car is seeing positive camber without cause and without being able to adjust it further. Again, you shouldn't need to delete the alignment pins just to get the car into spec.


Maybe you bent a control arm? I think that spending money on M3 control arms (gain -.7) might be a better way to fix the positive camber issue than camber plates. Adjustable plates will cost you just as much and you might still have a bent control arm or something. I'd consult another shop on what might be the cause of the car not being in spec. Either way, good luck!

Car is back in spec. I swapped lower control arms and pulled right side pin. Thanks for all the comments guys!