[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by 7smurfs

They don't always have the latest firmware so best to check.

Default settings are on the bottom of the first post found in link below:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10605

Also on the latest firmware, it will tell you what safety was triggered when got reverted to map 4.

Bottom of the first post is just the FAQ? Alright i'll update my firmware (if possible) when I next get to the car/laptop

[7smurfs]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

Bottom of the first post is just the FAQ? Alright i'll update my firmware (if possible) when I next get to the car/laptop

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/attach...1&d=1443494785

[_ink]

Have you got this sorted yet mate?

First things first, invest in the jb4 Bluetooth mobile app! It's the absolute best! The flash lovers don't have this (yet) so they can bitch all day about piggybacks etc..

The JB4 will save and advise the reason for the map4 safety trigger (I'm not sure what flash only offers in safety here in these circumstances)...

From there it's a process of elimination in replacing and inspecting components (this is the n54 life).

Check the common suspects like vacuum lines that run over the oil filter housing and under the engine cover, to the boost solenoids.. If they are old and brittle, upgrade them.

Then check your chargepipe for cracks, removing it would be the easiest to inspect.

These are the most common things to start with.

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by _ink

Have you got this sorted yet mate?

First things first, invest in the jb4 Bluetooth mobile app! It's the absolute best! The flash lovers don't have this (yet) so they can bitch all day about piggybacks etc..

The JB4 will save and advise the reason for the map4 safety trigger (I'm not sure what flash only offers in safety here in these circumstances)...

From there it's a process of elimination in replacing and inspecting components (this is the n54 life).

Check the common suspects like vacuum lines that run over the oil filter housing and under the engine cover, to the boost solenoids.. If they are old and brittle, upgrade them.

Then check your chargepipe for cracks, removing it would be the easiest to inspect.

These are the most common things to start with.

Not yet mate, I've posted the logs on n54tec.. and had a little help there. I'm going to put the car in map 4 and do a few runs and then also post those logs. Thats what steve from BMS said to do. Also going to try updating the firmware on the JB4 and doing a 1/7 reset in the steering wheel controls on the JB4, if non of that works ill have a look into what you said.

They have a large thread about the 30FF problem here. Just super annoying to have this as soon as the JB4 is installed, but as you said welcome to the world of the n54! Ill have a look into the JB4 app but what can it do that plugging and logging with my laptop can't do?

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114

[_ink]

Real time gauges to monitor temps, boost, and other things when the laptop isn't in the car, essentially they are gauges with the ability to log. I have this app open everytime I'm in the car.

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by _ink

Real time gauges to monitor temps, boost, and other things when the laptop isn't in the car, essentially they are gauges with the ability to log. I have this app open everytime I'm in the car.

Alright i'll take a look into it, but need to fix this 30FF code before I invest in the app!

[EB89]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

Alright i'll take a look into it, but need to fix this 30FF code before I invest in the app!

As Ink said It's really good.

- Read and Clear Codes
- Customise a dashboard with 6 gauges of your choosing out of a massive list
- Create and send log data
- Change or check the map you are on
- Set values for the JB4

This is where you buy it
http://jb4connectkit.com/store/

Worth it

A recent update allows it to display oil temp which I have open all the time, hopefully water temp soon.

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by EB89

As Ink said It's really good.

- Read and Clear Codes
- Customise a dashboard with 6 gauges of your choosing out of a massive list
- Create and send log data
- Change or check the map you are on
- Set values for the JB4

This is where you buy it
http://jb4connectkit.com/store/

Worth it

A recent update allows it to display oil temp which I have open all the time, hopefully water temp soon.

I understand the app is worth it and I'm looking at getting it, but for the time being I need to fix this 30FF code. No point in running JB4 if the car isn't even running properly! haha

Going to give it a go right now, I will post results

[samuelmccarthy13]

So I just went out and did some logs and here is the update.

First of all I did a 1/7 in the JB4 which resets octane, o2 sensor, and AFR adaptions for advanced use.

Then set all my JB4 controls to exactly match this --> http://www.n54tech.com/forums/attach...1&d=1443494785
including the menu 10,11 and 12 defaults

Put the car in map 1 and did a 2nd gear pull. Boost was average and below target the entire time, but car didnt throw 30ff code (same as last time). 3rd gear pull and once again car was thrown into map 4 during the pull.

So i left the car in map 4 and did a 2nd/3rd gear pull like Steve from BMS told me to and I have uploaded a picture of that log here.

Only thing I didnt do was update my Jb4 as I forgot but I really dont think that is going to be the problem.

If you want to see the CSV file its attached here --> http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40006

Thanks

[_ink]

Still not hitting target, it's got to be a boost leak somewhere.. you need to check everything.

AND update your firmware (what version is the FW currently?)

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by _ink

Still not hitting target, it's got to be a boost leak somewhere.. you need to check everything.

AND update your firmware (what version is the FW currently?)

The app firmware 1.8.7, how do I know the firmware of the actual JB4?

I'll have to try and find this boost leak!

[_ink]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

The app firmware 1.8.7, how do I know the firmware of the actual JB4?

I'll have to try and find this boost leak!

User "Adjustment Tab", then "Firmware Ver".. it needs to be connected to the car.

[Brule]

Put your head under the bonnet and get a torch look at the vacuum lines, check under intake manifold and all lines coming off the vacuum canisters ones fallen off or is split.

[samuelmccarthy13]

I'll have a look today, my only concern is that the car will eventually reach the target boost. It just climbs very slowly! See in the attached photo, im in 2nd gear and I slowly build the throttle and the boost can match the target the whole way and the boost eventually gets to around 13.5psi, but if i were to put my foot flat to the floor straight away the boost would climb way below target.

The car is only really starting to build boost quickly at around 5000rpm which is too late because i'll have to change gears anyway.

Other problem is why is it only putting me into map 4 on a 3rd gear pull? 2nd gear the boost actually goes higher and the car remains in map 1 but 3rd gear the car gets to around 10psi and then throws me into map 4?

[BMOmega]

Man.... all you guys are evil. I just bought myself the JB4 bluetooth dongle.

Can't wait to try it out!

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by BMOmega

Man.... all you guys are evil. I just bought myself the JB4 bluetooth dongle.

Can't wait to try it out!

Checked all the vacuum lines yesterday and no leaks! Broke two little 'T' joints in the process as I dont have a vacuum gauge so I had to take them off manually and then suck to see if they held a vacuum. But no problem replacing them.

Whats the next step? Could it be the boost solenoids? I'm really hoping my turbo's dont need to be replaced, mind you they have done 150k kms and have the wastegate rattle!

[Fuji]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

Whats the next step? Could it be the boost solenoids? I'm really hoping my turbo's dont need to be replaced, mind you they have done 150k kms and have the wastegate rattle!

Have the vacuum lines ever been replaced? How about the boost solenoids? If you ever have a hard brake pedal after leaving the car siting overnight, I'd replace the brake check valve (it causes a slow vacuum leak also).

If turbos were on the way out, you'd likely be throwing codes IMO

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by Fuji

Have the vacuum lines ever been replaced? How about the boost solenoids? If you ever have a hard brake pedal after leaving the car siting overnight, I'd replace the brake check valve (it causes a slow vacuum leak also).

If turbos were on the way out, you'd likely be throwing codes IMO

Some of the vacuum lines have been replaced by the previous owner but not all. But I did check them for leaks and although them seem a little worn, there arent any leaks. Havent replaced the boost solenoids, you think they could be the problem?

Yea i'm getting no other codes other than 30FF, what other codes would I be getting if turbos were going?

I'll also probably have to check the chargepipe to look for leaks around there

[Fuji]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

Some of the vacuum lines have been replaced by the previous owner but not all. But I did check them for leaks and although them seem a little worn, there arent any leaks. Havent replaced the boost solenoids, you think they could be the problem?

Yea i'm getting no other codes other than 30FF, what other codes would I be getting if turbos were going?

I'll also probably have to check the chargepipe to look for leaks around there

Good preventative maintenance to replace all of them if you can (rules them out as a source of vacuum leak also)

It's possible that the boost solenoids are failing (they often make some noise if they are). If you've replaced your FMIC, I'd double check connections there also.

Sorry, didn't see the code - 30FF can be associated with turbos going, but there's also a tonne of other things that can cause it ie vacuum leak

Good luck

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by Fuji

Good preventative maintenance to replace all of them if you can (rules them out as a source of vacuum leak also)

It's possible that the boost solenoids are failing (they often make some noise if they are). If you've replaced your FMIC, I'd double check connections there also.

Sorry, didn't see the code - 30FF can be associated with turbos going, but there's also a tonne of other things that can cause it ie vacuum leak

Good luck

Yea might just replace them as preventative maintenance. Even if they did make some noise, I wouldnt be able to hear them over my exhaust/wastegate rattle. I might just replace the boost solenoids, is there any way to test if they are faulty?

[Fuji]

Originally Posted by samuelmccarthy13

Yea might just replace them as preventative maintenance. Even if they did make some noise, I wouldnt be able to hear them over my exhaust/wastegate rattle. I might just replace the boost solenoids, is there any way to test if they are faulty?

They tend to make a buzzing noise that can be heard at idle if you stand in front of the engine bay (coming from boost solenoid area on the driver's side of the engine). If they've completely failed, they'll throw a code. Otherwise they might be noisy or sometimes no obvious symptoms at all.

Your WG rattle should be happening at idle, is it?

[samuelmccarthy13]

Originally Posted by Fuji

They tend to make a buzzing noise that can be heard at idle if you stand in front of the engine bay (coming from boost solenoid area on the driver's side of the engine). If they've completely failed, they'll throw a code. Otherwise they might be noisy or sometimes no obvious symptoms at all.

Your WG rattle should be happening at idle, is it?

WG rattle happens on cold start but then settles after 30sec-1min. But revving the engine in park you car hear the rattle on the deceleration of the RPM's. Otherwise its not too bad while driving/accelerating.

I havent really listened to the boost solenoids on start up, or at all for that matter. Is there any other way rather than just standing there and listening? How much does it cost to fix this problem at the mechanic, anyone ever had it fixed at Advan?