[mike3000fl]

ran these about 6,000 more miles after the car said ----- miles were left. had to buy rotors anyway so figured i would torture test.

[hockeyplayer]

Totally agree. I've found that its possible to go a few more thousand miles after the warning light comes on...seems to trip the sensor a bit early in my opinion.

Good to see some other NC forum members.

[bender rodriguez]

Good to know.. Was going to replace my pads when the computer still says 2k left. Prob will run it closer to zero now or wait for warning.

[mike3000fl]

i had the warning and it did get kind of ghetto driving around with the brake light.

i would peek in there with a flashlight to see how much meat i had on the pad between the rotor, not hard to see.

pretty sure the sensor wears out early in case one of the other 3 pads up front have more wear than the one with the sensor.

[fravel]

I had the exact opposite experience. Someone put grease on the caliper pins causing my outside pads to stick after the grease broke down and gunked up. My rear outers were ground down to backing material and the sensor never even went off. I scrubbed all the gunk off my caliper pins, put in new pads and rotors all the way around, and also replaced the rubber boots that house the caliper pins on all 4 calipers. I did a visual check during my suspension swap this weekend and pad wear is very even now.

[mike3000fl]

Originally Posted by fravel

I had the exact opposite experience. Someone put grease on the caliper pins causing my outside pads to stick after the grease broke down and gunked up. My rear outers were ground down to backing material and the sensor never even went off. I scrubbed all the gunk off my caliper pins, put in new pads and rotors all the way around, and also replaced the rubber boots that house the caliper pins on all 4 calipers. I did a visual check during my suspension swap this weekend and pad wear is very even now.

fuck i used grease when i reassembled mine. it was a high temp permatex silicone designed for brake caliper pins but i hope that shit doesn't happen to me because im happy with how mine wore evenly.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by fravel

I had the exact opposite experience. Someone put grease on the caliper pins causing my outside pads to stick after the grease broke down and gunked up. My rear outers were ground down to backing material and the sensor never even went off. I scrubbed all the gunk off my caliper pins, put in new pads and rotors all the way around, and also replaced the rubber boots that house the caliper pins on all 4 calipers. I did a visual check during my suspension swap this weekend and pad wear is very even now.

They need grease....just the right kind!

[fravel]

Originally Posted by mike3000fl

fuck i used grease when i reassembled mine. it was a high temp permatex silicone designed for brake caliper pins but i hope that shit doesn't happen to me because im happy with how mine wore evenly.

Bentley manual explicitly states not to use grease. If I were you, I'd go back in and pull your pins and wipe the grease off. It might even be worth your while to replace the rubber boots while you're in there too (they just pull right out).

Originally Posted by mankytron

They need grease....just the right kind!

False. Bentley manual explicitly states not to use grease, I know, it's weird, because every other car uses grease on caliper pins. A dry lube is ok, but not grease. Over time it gunks up in between the caliper pin and the rubber boot and causes the pin to stick in place.

You can argue with me about it all you want, but I've got the first hand experience to know that what you're claiming is wrong.

[mankytron]

Originally Posted by fravel

Bentley manual explicitly states not to use grease. If I were you, I'd go back in and pull your pins and wipe the grease off. It might even be worth your while to replace the rubber boots while you're in there too (they just pull right out).



False. Bentley manual explicitly states not to use grease, I know, it's weird, because every other car uses grease on caliper pins. A dry lube is ok, but not grease. Over time it gunks up in between the caliper pin and the rubber boot and causes the pin to stick in place.

You can argue with me about it all you want, but I've got the first hand experience to know that what you're claiming is wrong.

Wow thats a first. I will not argue...maybe bmw uses a different rubber in the boots, or a stainless pin to get away without some kind a lube in there? I wonder how they don't bind dry?

[1QuikWS6]

Yeah, there is no 'right' grease to use on the caliper slide pins - both the manual & the dealer confirm this.

I use Permatex Hi Temp Ceramic Filled grease sparingly on the pad ears where they contact the caliper slides, the face of the piston where it contacts the inboard pad, & the faces of the caliper ears that contact the outboard pad only.

Never have any noise or sticking problems

Of course, I also replace all the caliper slide pin rubber bushings & pins with new every time I do the brakes - not expensive & EZ install = good insurance

[fravel]

Originally Posted by mankytron

Wow thats a first. I will not argue...maybe bmw uses a different rubber in the boots, or a stainless pin to get away without some kind a lube in there? I wonder how they don't bind dry?

It is a stainless pin, but I'm not sure about the compound of the rubber. The new boots I put in did feel a bit slick, but I figured it was just because of the mold release that was leftover from the manufacturing process (kinda like how new tires feel slick to the touch.)