[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Streetsweeper360

Never hear that before about driving around a couple of hours to adapt.A flash is instant it will get minor changes after a couple hundred miles of driving.

With a flash tune the car needs to drive about 100-200 miles in order for the DME to be "fully optimize" to the new founded power

When I flashed to Dinan S3, a day later only after driving 60 miles, I had a friend using JB4 map 5 on a 135i, he walked me. 3 Weeks later, way over 200 miles, we met back up and I walked him everytime.

The DME goes through an adaptation period.

Edit: Not saying you will not feel the difference right after the flash, but it will get even better after couple of miles....

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by mithiral67

The difference between stage 1 and stage 2+ was very significant for me on my first pull (second pull not so much as it blew off my chargepipe). I dont know how you couldnt noticed it.

Also, what type of dps did you get and who installed? I have never heard of them making noise hitting eachother.

please read it again...i said NOT stg2+fmic. from stg1 to stg2. damn i hope my charge pipe doesnt blow off once i get fmic...guess i should just go ahead and upgrade my chargepipe while im at it.

also about dps i have installed the new vrsf ones and i accidentally put it on about 3mm clockwise so it is that much closer to the other downpipe. the space inbetween the 2 are about 2mm and they just clank against each other when there is movement in the pipes.

anyway anyone think its ok to strap them together?

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

With a flash tune the car needs to drive about 100-200 miles in order for the DME to be "fully optimize" to the new founded power

When I flashed to Dinan S3, a day later only after driving 60 miles, I had a friend using JB4 map 5 on a 135i, he walked me. 3 Weeks later, way over 200 miles, we met back up and I walked him everytime.

The DME goes through an adaptation period.

Edit: Not saying you will not feel the difference right after the flash, but it will get even better after couple of miles....

ive driven on it for about 300 miles with it and then reflashed to stg 1 and instantly had more torque...i mean you can peel the wheels again. in stg2 i was not able to spin the wheels at about 2500 rpms like i was able to in stg1.

[Streetsweeper360]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

With a flash tune the car needs to drive about 100-200 miles in order for the DME to be "fully optimize" to the new founded power

When I flashed to Dinan S3, a day later only after driving 60 miles, I had a friend using JB4 map 5 on a 135i, he walked me. 3 Weeks later, way over 200 miles, we met back up and I walked him everytime.

The DME goes through an adaptation period.

Edit: Not saying you will not feel the difference right after the flash, but it will get even better after couple of miles....

Makes More sense now!The way you described it is how I understand how it works .

[Streetsweeper360]

Originally Posted by cleex024

ive driven on it for about 300 miles with it and then reflashed to stg 1 and instantly had more torque...i mean you can peel the wheels again. in stg2 i was not able to spin the wheels at about 2500 rpms like i was able to in stg1.

I think
The first stage 1 maps were very aggressive and cobb tuned them down a bit !

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Streetsweeper360

I think
The first stage 1 maps were very aggressive and cobb tuned them down a bit !

i dont understand...why would the stg2 be tuned down farther than stg1? im running the new stg1 vs stg2.

i swear it seems to be the linear throttle cause even stg1 with linear throttle seems like it sucks. but the stg1 thats not either stock or linear throttle seems to push so hard.

cant wait to get fmic i guess so i can run the same throttle in stg2+fmic...cause in just stg2 there is only linear throttle.

[Jeef]

For your dp's, go and fix the 3mm you said so it will be farther apart.. My AR dp's are super close but they don't clink. And I don't think your charge pipe will blow off with a FMIC but you will feel a bigger difference.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Jeef

For your dp's, go and fix the 3mm you said so it will be farther apart.. My AR dp's are super close but they don't clink. And I don't think your charge pipe will blow off with a FMIC but you will feel a bigger difference.

yeah but the only problem is i have to take everything apart agian and that would take at least 2 hours to fix...because its the pipe on the driver side.

[Streetsweeper360]

Originally Posted by cleex024

i dont understand...why would the stg2 be tuned down farther than stg1? im running the new stg1 vs stg2.

i swear it seems to be the linear throttle cause even stg1 with linear throttle seems like it sucks. but the stg1 thats not either stock or linear throttle seems to push so hard.

cant wait to get fmic i guess so i can run the same throttle in stg2+fmic...cause in just stg2 there is only linear throttle.

Stage 1 203v stage 1 was over aggressive to many.If you want to run a much stronger map ,then have someone email you this map.The linear fools people
In thinking the map feels weaker then the stock throttle.All it's doing is making the throttle do exactly how you pres it.Stock throttle hits 75% at 20% throttle so it ramps up the Turbo very fast ,for a a explosive wot feel.Now stage 2 + is violent when compared to the rest .good luck .

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by Streetsweeper360

Stage 1 203v stage 1 was over aggressive to many.If you want to run a much stronger map ,then have someone email you this map.The linear fools people
In thinking the map feels weaker then the stock throttle.All it's doing is making the throttle do exactly how you pres it.Stock throttle hits 75% at 20% throttle so it ramps up the Turbo very fast ,for a a explosive wot feel.Now stage 2 + is violent when compared to the rest .good luck .

haha thanks...well i hope i dont blow up my engine lol.

ive been reading up with that whole m3 supercharged thread...its getting kinda crazy. that better not happen to my engine lol

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by cleex024

yeah but the only problem is i have to take everything apart agian and that would take at least 2 hours to fix...because its the pipe on the driver side.

Thats not too bad? haha

[import36]

Originally Posted by cleex024

yeah but the only problem is i have to take everything apart agian and that would take at least 2 hours to fix...because its the pipe on the driver side.

cleex...if i were you i'd spend the two hours to get back up in there and correct the position of the pipes. the two pipes should not be touching each other...so i wouldn't recommend strapping them together...that's just a bandaid fix.

also...linear throttle vs stock throttle maps are night and day...at least that's the way it feels to me. i ran the stg2+ fmic linear throttle maps for a while before the stock throttle maps were released.

[jh49tpro]

Hey Everyone,

I recently bought the Cobb AP for my 2008 e90 non sport. I flashed stage 1 aggressive 93 and absolutely love it. Over this past weekend I installed the Turner Motorsport boost gauge and noticed a drop in pressure once the car fully warms up (200). When the car is around 160-180 degree the psi goes to 14 but after is warms up to 200+ the psi drops from 11-12. Is this normal? Any ideas why this could be happening? Thanks!

J

[enrita]

Originally Posted by jh49tpro

Hey Everyone,

I recently bought the Cobb AP for my 2008 e90 non sport. I flashed stage 1 aggressive 93 and absolutely love it. Over this past weekend I installed the Turner Motorsport boost gauge and noticed a drop in pressure once the car fully warms up (200). When the car is around 160-180 degree the psi goes to 14 but after is warms up to 200+ the psi drops from 11-12. Is this normal? Any ideas why this could be happening? Thanks!

J

you should not go WOT when the car is not fully warm.

[jh49tpro]

Originally Posted by enrita

you should not go WOT when the car is not fully warm.

Thanks for the response. I usually do wait for the temp to be above 200 before I drive it hard but these few times it was at 180-200 when it hit 14 psi then dropped off to 11psi once it was over 200 in the 200-225 range. I am just worried I am not getting the full power or that something is wrong. Maybe Cobb stage 1 aggressive normally operates at 11psi?

[enrita]

Originally Posted by jh49tpro

Thanks for the response. I usually do wait for the temp to be above 200 before I drive it hard but these few times it was at 180-200 when it hit 14 psi then dropped off to 11psi once it was over 200 in the 200-225 range. I am just worried I am not getting the full power or that something is wrong. Maybe Cobb stage 1 aggressive normally operates at 11psi?

log your car when fully warm so we see whats going on . You could use Virtual dyno to trace boost and AFR . The new VD has as well a plotting functionality

[Streetsweeper360]

210 would be the minimum to go wot!

[rader1]

Originally Posted by jh49tpro

Thanks for the response. I usually do wait for the temp to be above 200 before I drive it hard but these few times it was at 180-200 when it hit 14 psi then dropped off to 11psi once it was over 200 in the 200-225 range. I am just worried I am not getting the full power or that something is wrong. Maybe Cobb stage 1 aggressive normally operates at 11psi?

Do you have any mods aside from the AP? If you have bolt-ons the car runs less boost on stage 1. It could also be due to the cold weather making more power so it needs less boost to hit the load target.

[Glowin]

We've now got Stock, Stg 1, and 2+ dynos.

Dear COBB, could we please get a Stg 2 dyno as well?

I'd love to know what you get just going from 1 to 2 (NOT 2+). I've just bought DP's at this point, and don't have plans on installing a FMIC for a while, so I'm only going to be Stg 2.

Cleex above also seems to be saying his Stg 2 feeling like it's less power than his Stg 1 aggressive map. A dyno would sure clear things up, and make all comparisons apples to apples, using the same fuel, car, map level (drive/sport/aggressive), etc.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by Glowin

We've now got Stock, Stg 1, and 2+ dynos.

[COLOR="Red"]Dear COBB, could we please get a Stg 2 dyno as well?[/COLOR]

I'd love to know what you get just going from 1 to 2 (NOT 2+). I've just bought DP's at this point, and don't have plans on installing a FMIC for a while, so I'm only going to be Stg 2.

Cleex above also seems to be saying his Stg 2 feeling like it's less power than his Stg 1 aggressive map. A dyno would sure clear things up, and make all comparisons apples to apples, using the same fuel, car, map level (drive/sport/aggressive), etc.

It was dynoed by Terry over on n54 forum, I think stage 2 agg makes around 360-365whp dynojet around 10-20whp more than stage 1.
I only see a difference in boost staying on longer in stage 2 other than that looks the same to me. Even though they say timing is .5 to 1 degrees higher than s1 but dont see that in my logs.

[KG3356MT]

I tried stage 1 aggressive a few days ago. did some logs and I have timing drops in multiple cylinders. is the map too much for my car? I have shell 93 Oct. 2012 335is DCT with 1600miles. maybe sport map better?

[rader1]

Originally Posted by KG3356MT

I tried stage 1 aggressive a few days ago. did some logs and I have timing drops in multiple cylinders. is the map too much for my car? I have shell 93 Oct. 2012 335is DCT with 1600miles. maybe sport map better?

Try sport and see what the logs look like. Post up some logs of aggresive