[DickBlisken]

Originally Posted by E92Vancouver

Got it fixed!!! Everything is awesome again!!!!

Just PM'd you! I've been having this same problem for the last couple of months on my own E92 328i, and I'm in Vancouver, too! Where did you have the work done?

[E92Vancouver]

Originally Posted by Nico87

Just PM'd you! I've been having this same problem for the last couple of months on my own E92 328i, and I'm in Vancouver, too! Where did you have the work done?

Mike Warner was the mechanic at Park Shore BMW. He is now the Service Manager. Really smart guy.

[Efthreeoh]

Does anyone know what the spec/type is for the Loctite is?

Thanks

[Casca]

I couldn't find a TSB for BMW concerning this, but came across one for Range Rover

SITUATION:

REAR AXLE CLICKING NOISE

When moving the gear selector lever from the "D" (drive) position to "R" (reverse) or from "R to "D" a clicking noise may be heard from the rear axle area. The noise may be the result of movement between the axle shaft spline and the drive flange. The differential flange to pinion spline can exhibit the same symptoms.

RESOLUTION:

NOTE: This TIB supersedes and replaces the information contained in TIB 51/01/98/NAS SECURE AXLE SHAFT SPLINE TO HUB JOINT

When a customer complains of these symptoms, or if the axle is apart for other work, Range Rover vehicles prior to the above VIN should have the axle shaft spline-to-hub joints secured using Loctite 648. Apply the Loctite using the procedure outlined below.

The rear differential flange to pinion spline for Range Rover and Discovery Series II models up to the above VINs can be corrected for a "click" sound with assembly using Loctite 648 also. When a vehicle after the above VINs is disassembled for repair, Loctite 648 should be used as part of the assembly process.

They used Loctite 648 which is the red high strength one. Not so sure I am comfortable doing that. Think I will just use blue. I think all it is doing is taking up slack space on the spline so there is no play. Or maybe I will just use red as well. All these parts that need the threadlock are fairly easy to get at with a puller once you remove the pumpkin from the car. Think I will do the input from the drive shaft as well as the output to the half shafts.

edit:

Should also not that the Range Rover TSB cautioned to apply Loctie only to the splines on the female part so that when you mate everything back together you are not pushing Loctite down into the differential or getting it where you shouldn't be getting it.

Not sure how that works out on a BMW, but the goal is to apply it so any excess loctite is just pushed up where you can just wipe it off.

[Dylanize]

Originally Posted by vedolino

Finally, I pushed myself to solve the clicking sound. I am driving a 2007 E92 328i automatic. The clicking was really, really bad when starting in D or starting in reverse. When driving in sport mode, when the car downshifts due to breaking you could hear a loud click in the cabin, the click coming from the differential area.

I first went to my local/official BMW dealer/service. They first told me to buy a whole new differential (few thousend Euros ). I said no, and I showed them this forum post. They asked for about 180 Euros to remove the differential to try to solve this using the description found in this forum post. In the end, they couldn't remove the differential, they didn't have the necessary tools

After that, I went to a local mechanic, I showed him again this forum post. He removed the whole exhaust and the driveshaft, there was no need to remove the differential. here are all the parts that were removed:



He applied the Loctite and we let it dry over night. This morning, I picked up my car, and voila - no clicking noise at all!!!! He charged me 75 Euros, and it was a 2-3 hours work.

I could not imagine in my wildest dreams that a bit of Loctite "glue" could solve this, since the clicking in my car was really, really bad. Even when I turn on the radio, I could still hear it clearly when it happens.

so a BIG BIG BIG thank you for posting the solution to this forum, the clicking was really, really annoying!

Here are some pics for better understanding if someone else wants to solve this:

THANKS DUDE, YOU ROCK!

[avocet]

I pulled my diff flange around 30,000kms ago with the very same issue. used high performance synth grease, and it has yet to return. using high strength Loctite there can be a pain in the ass if you ever need to pull your flange(seal leak, lsd upgrade etc...).

to quote my post on another site a few years ago:

"my car(manual 328i) would click just when releasing the clutch, either in rev or 1st. one click. sounds like the same issue. the answer is the puma case.

i pulled the aft end of my driveshaft at the input flange the the diff and pulled the flange. i then greased the splines and put it back together. click gone.

you dont need to drop the exhaust or pull the shaft... i pushed the shaft off to the side and it gave me enough room. mark the nut with a scribe or paint pen so you can torque it to the same spot. important because there is a crush gasket in there.

all you is a big socket(30mm???) and an outside torx for the shaft flange for 'special' tools. "

[Wolfgang Schneiderhan]

Be aware that using red (hi strength) Loctite will make future removal of the parts extremely difficult.

Red Loctite seems like overkill -- all we need to do is eliminate the clearance.

[AzureHaze]

I've had this issue for a while now but mine's auto. First stealership couldn't figure it out and the second one blames it on my wheel spacers.

Got over it now but I'll make sure to take care of it before my warranty is over.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Wolfgang Schneiderhan

Be aware that using red (hi strength) Loctite will make future removal of the parts extremely difficult.

Red Loctite seems like overkill -- all we need to do is eliminate the clearance.

There s Loctite 660 is developed for such usages, expensive though. It also needs heat to be removed.

[andysat]

Just had my e93 320i stripped and re-greased-under AUC warranty-ok now

[Repaxx]

Originally Posted by E92Vancouver

My car is like new again!!! Get it fixed. That click will only get lounder and louder.

I know this is an old thread but hopefully it can help me.
I have a 2003 M3 and experiencing the same problem.
I dont even know if I have the same spline/coupler.
And since you are from Vancouver, would you happen to know a shop that would do this for me (applying loctite) in Vancouver area?
Thanks in advance

[scorpnaz7]

Just did this yesterday. Thanks!

[norvie16]

Have the same problem on my 2008 e92 M3. It started around 55k miles, I'm at 67k miles now, can't say that it has gotten worse, but it's like water torture to me I can't stand the noise anymore so I had to pull the trigger. My mech said BMW NA issued a service bulletin on this problem since it is well-known.

[Yangorang]

I began to see similar symptoms about a year ago as well on my 2008 328xi, but for me I hear the clunk more from the front-ish. The only odd thing is that my car is an automatic and an xDrive model as well - I have mostly heard of this being an issue on the manual rear-drive models, but it's possible that there just aren't that many xDrive owners to complain.

I'm going to try to ask an indie shop tomorrow to see if they can perform this procedure for both my front and rear diffs. Hopefully that helps lock everything up.

[fmugur]

Originally Posted by Yangorang

I began to see similar symptoms about a year ago as well on my 2008 328xi, but for me I hear the clunk more from the front-ish. The only odd thing is that my car is an automatic and an xDrive model as well - I have mostly heard of this being an issue on the manual rear-drive models, but it's possible that there just aren't that many xDrive owners to complain.

I'm going to try to ask an indie shop tomorrow to see if they can perform this procedure for both my front and rear diffs. Hopefully that helps lock everything up.

How did it go? Any update? I bought my 2008 328xi with a defective transfer case. No clunking since it was only rear wheel drive. I replaced the transfer case today and everything works great except I got the clunking now. I wonder if you figure out what was causing the clunking in your case. And yes, the clunking seems to be closer to the front.

[Yangorang]

Never figured it out. Every shop I go to just says they can't replicate it. I'm not really sure at this point if it's the splined coupler or just the torque converter lockup clutch being rough. I was just going to wait around to see if it gets more obvious. There's too much stuff going on in this drivetrain...

[ykolin]

Vedolino,
How much of LOCTITE was applied on the splines?
A little bit or a good amount of it?

I have that clucking noise and want to eliminate it. Not sure how much I need to buy and apply.

[garret24]

I have this problem, but im wondering if this is something that really needs to be fixed before something serious happens? The noise dosent bother me that much so thats why im asking

Ps: sorry for my bad english

[ch1nczyk]

Same issue here, 2007 328i AT - which Loctie product has been used by anyone who fixed it this way?

[Orb]

Loctite 660 is the correct product to use. This is meant for worn splines as a gap filler as noted in the documentation.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by ch1nczyk

Same issue here, 2007 328i AT - which Loctie product has been used by anyone who fixed it this way?

The TSB can be found here:

https://www.bmwcca.org/forum/index.p...axle-pdf.2156/

It is has "NEW" information saying the product to use is a lubricant (grease),
BMW P/N 83 23 0 443 864 , not Loctite.

This grease Part Number is replaced by

"Grease Optitemp Ht 1 Lf 832517 - BMW (83-23-0-417-754)"

https://www.bmwpartsworldwide.com/oe...17-83230417754

If I were you I would get it from a BMW dealership near by, not very expensive.

[HP_e92]

Originally Posted by avocet

I pulled my diff flange around 30,000kms ago with the very same issue. used high performance synth grease, and it has yet to return. using high strength Loctite there can be a pain in the ass if you ever need to pull your flange(seal leak, lsd upgrade etc...).

to quote my post on another site a few years ago:

"my car(manual 328i) would click just when releasing the clutch, either in rev or 1st. one click. sounds like the same issue. the answer is the puma case.

i pulled the aft end of my driveshaft at the input flange the the diff and pulled the flange. i then greased the splines and put it back together. click gone.

you dont need to drop the exhaust or pull the shaft... i pushed the shaft off to the side and it gave me enough room. mark the nut with a scribe or paint pen so you can torque it to the same spot. important because there is a crush gasket in there.

all you is a big socket(30mm???) and an outside torx for the shaft flange for 'special' tools. "

Im trying your method but cant seem to separate the driveshaft from the input flange. Any tricks or tools? Also, will the flange be just as stuck?
Any help is appreciated as i cant locate any info online.
Thanks