[Annata20df]

Originally Posted by e90will

Thank you guys for the feedback. Now i can stay cool

I also did some other checks on the car & found out it was the blower regulator (the resistor) that was defective. I just went out & bought the new part from a friend i know at my local dealer and got it fixed.

Spent a few hours in doing it myself after finding other threads that provided the instructions on getting it replaced... Also want to give big thanks to member "Eninty" for providing detailed instructions on replacing it:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=blower dordle

I'm glad your blower is fixed, I had the same problem as you a few days ago, thanks to your post it's solved

[Trevor_L]

I have a 2007 bmw 328i that has no air coming from the vents, hot or cold. The blower motor will not engage. I just got done replacing the coolant flange and upper radiator hose, flushing the heater core, and bleeding the system, and when I went to start the car no air come out of the vents. This wasn't a problem the other day before I started the work, but the blower motor did not blow too strong. I checked the fuse and it was still good, but when I turn the dials for cold air the radiator fan will cut on for a bit and then turn off and then back on again which I don't know if that's normal or not. Any advice is appreciated. I also know that there is a recall for the wiring to the blower motor but do not know if that could be it.

[Nando_e90]

Originally Posted by Trevor_L

I have a 2007 bmw 328i that has no air coming from the vents, hot or cold. The blower motor will not engage. I just got done replacing the coolant flange and upper radiator hose, flushing the heater core, and bleeding the system, and when I went to start the car no air come out of the vents. This wasn't a problem the other day before I started the work, but the blower motor did not blow too strong. I checked the fuse and it was still good, but when I turn the dials for cold air the radiator fan will cut on for a bit and then turn off and then back on again which I don't know if that's normal or not. Any advice is appreciated. I also know that there is a recall for the wiring to the blower motor but do not know if that could be it.

Had same issue last week. Blower stopped working but after three days it worked again.
What marvinstockman says of the worn brushes being the problem makes sense to me. You should try whacking it and see if it works.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1991793

[rasmith9]

Hello - I am new to the forum, long time BMW owner and have an issue I am hoping someone with more experience may be able to help.

Blower motor stopped working, so based on initial testing of harness and having 12v on the Red wire (pin #2 on the connector of the new harness, the recall was performed in '19) ordered a new blower motor and resistor. Both were installed and Blower Motor still doesn't work. It does come on for about 2 seconds when I start the car and then stops - believe that is from the Capacitors getting charged by the Red wire. Here are some details:

Verified checks:
- Voltage to the 4 pin connector (believe input) Red wire without the engine on is 12.43v
- Ground to the Brown wire on the 4 pin connector was verified to chassis with a Multimeter
- Battery was load checked and is good
- Voltage to the Red wire with the engine on is 14.5v
- Voltage to the output (2 Pin connector) is 0
- The on dash controls have no effect: defrost, any of the fan levels, auto, AC, heat
- Fuses 6, 77, 88 have been pulled and checked and all are good

Potential Issue:
- No voltage at fuse 88 (checked with engine on/off and with defrost, different fan levels, auto, heat/AC on/off).
- Water got into the passenger footwell, so am sure the original Blower Motor and Resistor were suspect.

Questions:
- Is there a relay for the Blower motor? I think there should be voltage coming to fuse 88.
- What test can be done for the controller wire (believe is is pin #3 on 4 pin connector - blue/white small wire)?
- Is there a test procedure for the FSU (Blower Resistor), so I can test the new vs. old parts?
- Is there something else I should be testing?

I only have a basic OBDII tester and no codes showing related to this. Any help would be appreciated, about to have to take to a shop.

Thanks in advance, Robert