[328ixdrive66]

Good day all,

So I have been having some issue for the last 10-12KM with my 328xi in regards to brake shutter/pulsation. So about 8k ago I got the rotors resurfaced because there was little to no run-out on them .001 to be exact. After that they were fine now it has since came back. I talked to a Indy shop and they said to take the car from 100km to 30km 4-6 times, basically re-bedding the brakes. They said likely its pad deposits and not a warped rotor. So I did this and I find a better difference but it's still not perfect above 120km to so. My question is what is a good aftermarket rotor/pad combo that is cost effect and very reliable. if you have similar stories let me know please. Currently I have 33KM on the car right now. Thanks

[ashmostro]

What pads are you using? How is your car being used? *Most* pedal judder is inded pad deposits and is typically the result of running the wrong pad temp range for your driving style and vehicle use.

As for what else to get instead, you're going to get 100 different opinions on this with very few "wrong" answers. What I mean by that is it's a personal choice. I happen to run Racingbrake XT910s because I like as aggressive a pad on the street as possible, and it will probably stand up to the track too with the right cooling solution.

Again, important question is how you intend to use it. Knowing what pads you have now will help figure out what can be eliminated, too.

[328ixdrive66]

First thank you for the quick reply, I do not use it for track at all I would say I can drive aggressively fairly often but I am not hard on the pads more cornering and take off. I am currently running the OEM that came on the car. Do you think I can just repair the ones that are on them but doing more hard braking?

[ashmostro]

I would recommend getting new rotors (OEM or Zimmerman are just fine, and reasonably priced if you shop around), and slightly more aggressive pads.

Pads to consider:
Hawk Ceramic, or HPS (more aggressive than Ceramic)
EBC Redstuff
Racingbrake ET500 (ET800 is more aggressive- I think 500's are fine for your needs)
Akebono Euro Ceramic
Carbotech 1512's

and more...

[ashmostro]

Also, should ask, how many miles on the pads?

[328ixdrive66]

Only 20500 Miles that's the shitty part barley any at all

[ashmostro]

Have you measured how much pad is left by chance? I still think you should get better pads but just curious how much wear there is.

[328ixdrive66]

Yes the Indy shops said they still have over 80% left

[ashmostro]

Got it. Would you rather keep trouble shooting, or are you OK with spending the cash on new equipment?

There could still be a few things to try, which is why I ask. Understandable if you prefer just getting new gear- I would do the same in fact.

[328ixdrive66]

well if I could fix what I got I would much rather do that, I could spend the 1000K on mods I would much rather do that

[ashmostro]

Well there are a few things to try then:

1) get a flex hone tool bit and matching oil and chuck it into your drill. Clean the pad transfer layer off the rotors, front and back. The oil is for lubrication and is necessary. Then clean off completely with brake cleaner.

2) use a brass wire brush and clean any and all rust off all the wheel hubs, rotor back and front faces, and wheel hub faces. Any rust can put the wheels or rotors out of parallel which can contribute to pulsation.

3) re bed your leads as recommended by your Indy. Be careful to allow for proper cooling after the initial bed.

If the rotors have excess pad deposits, you may find that the problem goes away, and then comes back after a time. If so, replace at least the rotors, if not also the pads.

[328ixdrive66]

ok I will give this a try..... thanks for the advice!!

[ashmostro]

You bet. Let us know how it works out!