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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > What should I know before I purchase a 335D



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      07-15-2014, 10:21 AM   #23
montr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grzes View Post
well said and I can confirm that it is true, when CBU creeps on us it costs thousands in parts and weeks without car. Walnut blasting was done in few days but figuring out what else went wrong took them forever, waited for over 4 months to get my car back.
My car has been to the dealer for 2 months this year alone, and the year is not over. My experience is that diagnostic of problems is complicated, parts are not stock and take days or weeks to arrive. I like to drive the car when it is drivable.
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      07-15-2014, 10:28 AM   #24
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Other than the CBU issue, crappy gearbox and subpar mileage (in my experience), best car I've owned. Just don't hesitate on buying the extended warranty but then again, most out there are probably CPOs by now.

Let's just say I drove my buddy's new-used E92 328i (first time driving the NA I-6) last weekend and I gotta say I am so thankful I got the diesel beast!
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      07-15-2014, 11:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montr View Post
My car has been to the dealer for 2 months this year alone, and the year is not over. My experience is that diagnostic of problems is complicated, parts are not stock and take days or weeks to arrive. I like to drive the car when it is drivable.
true true true, they order one part at a time, each part takes at least two weeks to arrive from Germany, then when they replace that part some other issue pops up and so on till there is nothing more to be replaced lol
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      07-15-2014, 12:23 PM   #26
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It was the best of times,it was the worst of times.

How anyone accepts a car being in the shop for 90 days is beyond me.

I enjoyed the car for 40K miles and then it wasn't even reliable for a DD.

Having to re-engineer the car to make it usable is ridiculous. I say get a 335i.
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      07-16-2014, 03:49 AM   #27
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I would also say get a 335i, but do lots of searching first. A 2011 CPO 335i can be had for under $30k with the good options (sport/premium/nav), and yet sometimes a similar 335d will be an extra $2000, even though resell on them lately is terrible. And I mean terrible. My wholesale value 15 months ago was $28-$29k, now it's $18k-$20k. Dealers wouldn't go low 30's on a CPO sport D within 500 miles and now I hear of $22-24k CPO D's. The carbon build up has to be the main culprit.

I had two 335i sedans and loved both as much as my D, but the diesel is my favorite of the bunch.

I'm biased, but I would probably do it all over again.

My car has been at the dealer for 8 days now. I have no idea what they're working on. Or if they're working on it.
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      07-16-2014, 10:05 AM   #28
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I got a new short engine, dde, and fuel injectors. As long as you got CPO 100k warranty, you are good to go.
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      07-16-2014, 09:53 PM   #29
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I ended up buying an F30, but I am intrigued by the 335D. However I guess ultimately it would have been a bad decision
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      07-16-2014, 10:43 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdiaz
I got a new short engine, dde, and fuel injectors. As long as you got CPO 100k warranty, you are good to go.
What happened to your block?
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      07-17-2014, 09:20 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by bahasad View Post
I ended up buying an F30, but I am intrigued by the 335D. However I guess ultimately it would have been a bad decision
The 335d is an intriguing car! Ultimately, one has to do what works best for them. I don't think that you can go wrong with an F30, my neighbor has one and he loves it. Congrats on your new F30 purchase!
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      07-17-2014, 09:59 AM   #32
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After buying car, drive home pull in garage:

Step 1. install block off plate on EGR.
Step 2. enjoy the car evermore.
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      07-17-2014, 11:40 AM   #33
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Also do dpf removal and install a new DOWNPIPE then either piggy back or bench flash it
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      07-19-2014, 12:50 AM   #34
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Aside from the carbon build up issues that seem to be a constant subject here (remember that a forum will probably magnify an issue), the 'd is a great car. Period. However, it's a little under appreciated by the masses and resale value suffers accordingly. As a buyer of course, you will gain. When you decide to sell it, expect to get hit with depreciation about 15% higher than with a 335i or 328i. Probably a wash or a moot issue if you drive/own it for a while. If you find one in nice condition, at the right price and with a solid maintenance record, I recommend you go for it. You won't be disappointed.

Edit: I just saw your post that you went with an F30. Enjoy your new ride.
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      07-22-2014, 03:29 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bahasad View Post
I ended up buying an F30, but I am intrigued by the 335D. However I guess ultimately it would have been a bad decision
A bad decision? Ummm ... OK, if you say so. The F30 328i is my favorite in the F30 lineup, BTW. The x drive is crap but, whatever. Still, as much as I like the F30 328i, it's just boring to drive. I can pay 21k for a damn Camry if I want to fall asleep behind the wheel ...
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      08-14-2014, 04:40 PM   #36
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Don't mean to bring this back to the dead, but I figure it's better than starting a whole new thread.

Been surfing through a lot of threads to learn as much as possible about CBU and what people are doing to mitigate this. People are asking what they should know before buying a 335d or whether 200X year with XX,XXX miles for $______ is worth it and I all keep seeing people suggest is "CPO CPO CPO CPO CPO"

Is the EGR/DPF/DEF delete doing its job to increase reliability? If so, then those mods would void the CPO. At the same time, the only reason people keep preaching to have CPO is because of the CBU caused by those components, correct? If that's true, then it seems kind of a waste to spend the money on a car with a CPO still active unless there's other things I didn't read about that are breaking and cost $$

I guess it may be too soon to tell, but injectors should be lasting a lot longer if the car has the delete mods to prevent CBU?
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      08-14-2014, 05:12 PM   #37
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If you live in a emission controlled state then I would just do the EGR block off and Meth. Both are easily reversible before an annual/bi-annual inspection and probably the two most effective at reducing/eliminating carbon buildup. Oh, add a catch can to that, but if done properly should not throw any codes. CPO will come in handy with things like injectors, DDE, SCR components.
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      08-14-2014, 05:53 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yozh View Post
If you live in a emission controlled state then I would just do the EGR block off and Meth. Both are easily reversible before an annual/bi-annual inspection and probably the two most effective at reducing/eliminating carbon buildup. Oh, add a catch can to that, but if done properly should not throw any codes. CPO will come in handy with things like injectors, DDE, SCR components.
I would be subject to the OBD II only, luckily.
My main concern like everyone else would be the CBU buildup. So either way if the EGR/DPF/tune voids the warranty then it shouldn't really be of an issue?
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      08-14-2014, 06:10 PM   #39
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If you remove the emissions components I bet a BMW dealer would not even work on the car, in or out of warranty, it is a federal issue by then to them...
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      08-15-2014, 09:56 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by DieselRacer View Post
If you remove the emissions components I bet a BMW dealer would not even work on the car, in or out of warranty, it is a federal issue by then to them...
That's fine, they sound quite useless anyways judging by the colorful comments I've read about their work on the d's :P
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      08-15-2014, 10:21 AM   #41
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From reading these pages, it seems like a 335d owner has a choice:

Go to a dealer and be insured, get a bill for up to $15,000 for repairs er.. replacements

or

Go to a private mechanic knowledgable about diesels and be uninsured, get a bill for up to, uh, maybe $3000 for cleaning and repairs.

BTW, "insurance" means a $2500 extended warranty.

Am I wrong?

PL
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      08-15-2014, 09:46 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre Louis
From reading these pages, it seems like a 335d owner has a choice:

Go to a dealer and be insured, get a bill for up to $15,000 for repairs er.. replacements

or

Go to a private mechanic knowledgable about diesels and be uninsured, get a bill for up to, uh, maybe $3000 for cleaning and repairs.

BTW, "insurance" means a $2500 extended warranty.

Am I wrong?

PL
There are a lot of things that can and have broken on these cars. The problem is the parts themselves are fairly expensive. I had warranty work and cleaning done as a result of CBU, and now a month or so later I'm throwing a swirl flap SES again...
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      08-16-2014, 01:22 AM   #43
Pierre Louis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skychismo View Post
There are a lot of things that can and have broken on these cars. The problem is the parts themselves are fairly expensive. I had warranty work and cleaning done as a result of CBU, and now a month or so later I'm throwing a swirl flap SES again...
Sorry to sound cynical, but this still sounds like the dealer replaces stuff but doesn't do the job well enough, gets paid by BMW for both. The private mechanic screws up, and fixes it for free, if that happens at all.

PL
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      08-16-2014, 08:55 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre Louis
Quote:
Originally Posted by skychismo View Post
There are a lot of things that can and have broken on these cars. The problem is the parts themselves are fairly expensive. I had warranty work and cleaning done as a result of CBU, and now a month or so later I'm throwing a swirl flap SES again...
Sorry to sound cynical, but this still sounds like the dealer replaces stuff but doesn't do the job well enough, gets paid by BMW for both. The private mechanic screws up, and fixes it for free, if that happens at all.

PL
You don't sound cynical, you sound like you don't really know what you're talking about. The dealer would have nothing to do with a swirl flap actuator sticking. It's most likely due to oily buildup in the intake mixing with carbon from the egr.
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