Dead Car

PiZauL · 08-23-2011, 05:31 AM

This is really random as I have never had an issue with the car. Yesterday I came home, parked the car outside of garage and turned it off. Forgot that I had no keys so I powered it back on (accessory, no start) to open garage, then powered it off and locked the car. Came back to it a few hours later, and it was dead. Couldn't unlock doors, no crank. But what I did notice was my tail light middle section was slightly flickering, the gear indicator on shifter was flickering, and there was a audible thud type noise coming from the bottom of the car (sounded like fuel pump in tank?). I ended up jumping the car and found a 2DEC code stored, which is:

2DEC:
2DEC Power management, battery control
EXPLANATION: Sometimes appears when removing battery cable
FIX: Reconnect battery, clear and rescan

Last time I touched the battery cable was when I reinstalled my JB4, and that was months ago. After I jumped it, I checked the battery and all cables were snug. Battery seems to be healthy as car isn't giving any indication on it needing to be changed. It's as if the car never went to sleep mode properly. On a side note, before jumping it I tried using my key to open the trunk to check on the battery and it refused to do so.. wtf.

Going to the dealer would probably be pointless for this since the car is now fine, and they would prob just ask me if I messed with the battery cable. Ideas? Is my car going to explode? Random electrical gremlin?

Here is a vid to show what was happening:

PiZauL · 08-23-2011, 08:06 PM

Guess this is a unique case?

E30M3Driver · 08-24-2011, 11:06 AM

So car was dead and you couldn't unlock it? How did you eventually get inside? It sounds like it started working again?

Not sure if this is your problem but it sounds something like it.

There was a recent service bulletin issued, SI B61 08 11, Complete Power Failure of the Vehicle's Electrical System

For all E90, E91, E92, E93 produced 2/28/07-05/30/11

"Over time, the positive battery cable connection at the front power distribution box loses connection."

Symptoms include vehicle failing to start, central locking system failure and key doesn't insert into key slot.

Only fix is to remove and replace the battery cable from the fusebox to the battery in the trunk. The way to tell if this is the problem is to look for discoloration of the battery cable going into the fuse box. To do that, you have to pull the fusebox loose and look at the back side.

Good luck.

PiZauL · 08-24-2011, 01:01 PM

^Ended up using the key to open the door then I jumped the car. And interesting service bulletin, I will check this out. Thanks! I still have CPO warranty, will have to bring this service bulletin up.

Edit: Now that I think of it, I believe my car was produced in 06. Will double check.

Elliott@DetailAddict · 08-24-2011, 01:05 PM

Just had my car fixed for the service bulletin above.

If you're out of warranty get ready to pay $2,000+ for the repair.
(I asked how much it was without my CPO warranty. 10 hours labor plus $1300 dealer cost parts before markup.)

I'm calling BMWNA to get a refund and start things rolling with legal pressure.

This is going to be the next HPFP Lawsuit for sure.

Background:
3 months back my car lost power for 2 minutes.
1.5 months ago it did it 2 times in one day for 1 hour plus each time.
3 weeks ago it did it at work at lunch for 4 hours.

Super inconvenient and made me really worry every time I used my car.

Edit: Just sent my message to BMWNA

Quote:

Hello,
I have just received my 335i coupe back from 2+ weeks of service for repair under SI B61 08 11 (for complete vehicle power loss).

I have been locked out of my vehicle on multiple occasions for the past 3 months leading to discovering this factory defect for up to 4 hours at a time.

This defect has not only jeopardized my safety but my significant other's as well. Without the ability to even re-enter and lock the vehicle we have been stranded road side where anything could have happened.

I understand that without my CPO warranty that this fix would have costed over $2,000 dollars. My Service Advisor also let me know that 4 other cars this month alone have come in and been diagnosed with this issue (along with dozens of others surfacing on online enthusiast forums).

With the HPFP defect, the car is at least able to be driven to a safe location yet this situation was deemed a safety issue and a recall was issued. I have a very strong feeling a recall and class action suit will be soon to follow with this Complete Power Failure.

I am writing to request a refund of my $50 dollar CPO co-pay for repairs due to multiple instances of the safety of myself and my loved ones being put at risk due to this defect.

Thank you. Regards.

PiZauL · 08-24-2011, 01:18 PM

Hmm, this kinda has me worried. I still have factory warranty until end of this month, then its CPO warranty. Might take it in, gonna keep the code stored and take the JB4 out.

But my symptoms don't really sound like what is said in this bulletin. I was able to use my key in the door slots, didn't work for trunk (and still doesn't - could be lock issue). And you are saying eventually your car starts? For me the battery was drained and needed to be jumped.

Elliott@DetailAddict · 08-24-2011, 01:27 PM

I could unlock my car with the key in the driver door.
I was unable to jump though.

Maybe we could change the title of this thread to Vehicle Loss of Power with your code in there too.

Will335i · 08-24-2011, 01:39 PM

If this is an obvious defect in the car which even BMW seems to think it is, i.e. service bulliten then I'm really surprised you had to pay. I would definitely go after a refund. There is no reason you should pay for a manufacture defect, specially one that could turn into a serious safety issue. GL

Elliott@DetailAddict · 08-24-2011, 01:55 PM

I completely agree.

I'm sure this will turn into the next BMW recall/Class action suit.

E30M3Driver · 08-24-2011, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PiZauL

Hmm, this kinda has me worried. I still have factory warranty until end of this month, then its CPO warranty. Might take it in, gonna keep the code stored and take the JB4 out.

But my symptoms don't really sound like what is said in this bulletin. I was able to use my key in the door slots, didn't work for trunk (and still doesn't - could be lock issue). And you are saying eventually your car starts? For me the battery was drained and needed to be jumped.

If your battery was drained, the first step in the SB is to diagnose the battery. Hard to say whether or not your battery was the cause of your problem or the victim due to this or another cause.

PiZauL · 08-25-2011, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E30M3Driver

If your battery was drained, the first step in the SB is to diagnose the battery. Hard to say whether or not your battery was the cause of your problem or the victim due to this or another cause.

I will see if this happens again, then will dig deeper. I suspect the car just never went to sleep, and whatever that noise is, is what drained the battery. But doesnt make sense why my tails and shift indicator would flicker like that.

Dynomyte · 10-25-2011, 09:51 AM

I am out of warranty and I am certain that I have this issue. If this is in a bulletin does that mean that the work will be done for free?

Thanks,
Dynomyte

E30M3Driver · 10-25-2011, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynomyte

I am out of warranty and I am certain that I have this issue. If this is in a bulletin does that mean that the work will be done for free?

Thanks,
Dynomyte

Only if you are in warranty.

mikey0013 · 10-25-2011, 10:41 AM

My car had the same issue and I posted what was going on and everyone flamed on me because I had subs in the car, well after getting a lawyer and having the car at the dealer for four months they fixed the issue replaced battery cable,fuse box and junction box, and BMW reimbursed me for four months of payment sry for typos and ongoing sentences I'm posting from my cell phone as soon as I get home ill try taking pics of the service paperwork so you guys know exactly what they did to fix the issue

dbjb · 10-25-2011, 10:59 AM

Disconnect your battery. Take it to an auto store and have it tested. Bet it won't hold a charge. If so, you can only jump start the car by having the powered car connected for 10+ minutes and then turning ignition.

My battery was just replaced. Had same issues.

dbjb · 10-25-2011, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PiZauL

Hmm, this kinda has me worried. I still have factory warranty until end of this month, then its CPO warranty. Might take it in, gonna keep the code stored and take the JB4 out.

But my symptoms don't really sound like what is said in this bulletin. I was able to use my key in the door slots, didn't work for trunk (and still doesn't - could be lock issue). And you are saying eventually your car starts? For me the battery was drained and needed to be jumped.

Trunk will open. It is very tight though. Turn it hard to the left. Same for me.

Potty_Pants · 10-25-2011, 11:37 AM

last bummer for me.

PiZauL · 10-25-2011, 12:03 PM

Just as an update, the issue hasn't reoccured and I have put it behind me. I will prob need a new battery sometime next year, gonna wait until the car starts yelling at me that it needs a new batt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsbj

Trunk will open. It is very tight though. Turn it hard to the left. Same for me.

Ah, will see if this does it. Thanks

Dynomyte · 10-30-2011, 04:22 PM

I am 100% sure I have this issue and I am out of warranty. Any suggestions to what I should do?

Dynomyte · 10-31-2011, 10:50 PM

Bump. My car is completely dead as we speak. Any suggestions?

hugus311 · 11-01-2011, 04:21 AM

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...use+box&page=2

AWDBooSTIn90 · 07-28-2020, 05:03 PM

You can also replace the fitting on your own if your capable or willing to learn to crimp a straight thru round hole end connector. It is a big AWG Wire. Maybe 4awg-2awg? It can be done.
You cut the old corroded one off and crimp on the new connector or possibly also an extension piece if you need to cut back far on the copper cable to get to clean copper again, no more green corrosion. Then install a section of wire with the stud connector on the other end to the Fuxe Box(JB).
But definitely do this at your own risk
People will also find they might have this same corrosion on the two wires that go thru the body at the bulkhead connections in the battery box.
So it would be good to give all these a good check: the wires from battery fuse block to battery box connection points. Which are insulated copper studs going thru the wheel-well sheet metal to the the outside PS wheel-well to the front. Then check the other side, the cable/connections on the wheel well side for corrosion, as well.
Also theres a connection block area where the under-hood jump start positive (+) point. The Battery Cables B & B+ are located there but not connected.

08-23-2011, 05:31 AM	#1
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	Vehicle Loss of Electrical Power - 2DEC Power Management Code This is really random as I have never had an issue with the car. Yesterday I came home, parked the car outside of garage and turned it off. Forgot that I had no keys so I powered it back on (accessory, no start) to open garage, then powered it off and locked the car. Came back to it a few hours later, and it was dead. Couldn't unlock doors, no crank. But what I did notice was my tail light middle section was slightly flickering, the gear indicator on shifter was flickering, and there was a audible thud type noise coming from the bottom of the car (sounded like fuel pump in tank?). I ended up jumping the car and found a 2DEC code stored, which is: 2DEC: 2DEC Power management, battery control EXPLANATION: Sometimes appears when removing battery cable FIX: Reconnect battery, clear and rescan Last time I touched the battery cable was when I reinstalled my JB4, and that was months ago. After I jumped it, I checked the battery and all cables were snug. Battery seems to be healthy as car isn't giving any indication on it needing to be changed. It's as if the car never went to sleep mode properly. On a side note, before jumping it I tried using my key to open the trunk to check on the battery and it refused to do so.. wtf. Going to the dealer would probably be pointless for this since the car is now fine, and they would prob just ask me if I messed with the battery cable. Ideas? Is my car going to explode? Random electrical gremlin? Here is a vid to show what was happening: Last edited by PiZauL; 08-25-2011 at 06:40 AM.. Reason: Title change for clarification
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08-23-2011, 08:06 PM	#2
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	Guess this is a unique case?
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08-24-2011, 11:06 AM	#3
E30M3Driver Captain 37 Rep 794 Posts Drives: 2021 M2C, 97 M3 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Here, there iTrader: (1) Garage List 2007 BMW 335i [8.00] 1989 BMW M3 [8.20]	So car was dead and you couldn't unlock it? How did you eventually get inside? It sounds like it started working again? Not sure if this is your problem but it sounds something like it. There was a recent service bulletin issued, SI B61 08 11, Complete Power Failure of the Vehicle's Electrical System For all E90, E91, E92, E93 produced 2/28/07-05/30/11 "Over time, the positive battery cable connection at the front power distribution box loses connection." Symptoms include vehicle failing to start, central locking system failure and key doesn't insert into key slot. Only fix is to remove and replace the battery cable from the fusebox to the battery in the trunk. The way to tell if this is the problem is to look for discoloration of the battery cable going into the fuse box. To do that, you have to pull the fusebox loose and look at the back side. Good luck. __________________ Performance Center Delivery, June 21, 2013: 2013 E92 335is \| Le Mans Blue \| Gray Leather with Black \| 6MT \| 19" Style 313's \| Michelin Pilot Super Sports \| BMW Carbon Fiber Rear Spoiler \|
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08-24-2011, 01:01 PM	#4
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	^Ended up using the key to open the door then I jumped the car. And interesting service bulletin, I will check this out. Thanks! I still have CPO warranty, will have to bring this service bulletin up. Edit: Now that I think of it, I believe my car was produced in 06. Will double check.
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08-24-2011, 01:18 PM	#6
PiZauL I6 + TT = FTW 80 Rep 847 Posts Drives: E90 M3, GT350, Tesla M3P Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD iTrader: (2)	Hmm, this kinda has me worried. I still have factory warranty until end of this month, then its CPO warranty. Might take it in, gonna keep the code stored and take the JB4 out. But my symptoms don't really sound like what is said in this bulletin. I was able to use my key in the door slots, didn't work for trunk (and still doesn't - could be lock issue). And you are saying eventually your car starts? For me the battery was drained and needed to be jumped.
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08-24-2011, 01:27 PM	#7
Elliott@DetailAddict Brigadier General 300 Rep 4,444 Posts Drives: E90 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Santa Clara, CA iTrader: (0)	I could unlock my car with the key in the driver door. I was unable to jump though. Maybe we could change the title of this thread to Vehicle Loss of Power with your code in there too.
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08-24-2011, 01:39 PM	#8
Will335i The Engineer 26 Rep 329 Posts Drives: AW 07' 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis MO iTrader: (2) Garage List 2007 335i e92 [1.00]	If this is an obvious defect in the car which even BMW seems to think it is, i.e. service bulliten then I'm really surprised you had to pay. I would definitely go after a refund. There is no reason you should pay for a manufacture defect, specially one that could turn into a serious safety issue. GL
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08-24-2011, 01:55 PM	#9
Elliott@DetailAddict Brigadier General 300 Rep 4,444 Posts Drives: E90 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Santa Clara, CA iTrader: (0)	I completely agree. I'm sure this will turn into the next BMW recall/Class action suit.
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10-25-2011, 09:51 AM	#12
Dynomyte Private First Class 11 Rep 166 Posts Drives: BMW 335i E92 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada iTrader: (0)	I am out of warranty and I am certain that I have this issue. If this is in a bulletin does that mean that the work will be done for free? Thanks, Dynomyte
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10-25-2011, 10:41 AM	#14
mikey0013 Enlisted Member 3 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2008 328i sedan Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: California iTrader: (0)	My car had the same issue and I posted what was going on and everyone flamed on me because I had subs in the car, well after getting a lawyer and having the car at the dealer for four months they fixed the issue replaced battery cable,fuse box and junction box, and BMW reimbursed me for four months of payment sry for typos and ongoing sentences I'm posting from my cell phone as soon as I get home ill try taking pics of the service paperwork so you guys know exactly what they did to fix the issue
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10-25-2011, 10:59 AM	#15
dbjb I sweat pheromones 203 Rep 2,103 Posts Drives: e92 335i, retired SLK55 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NorCal iTrader: (25)	Disconnect your battery. Take it to an auto store and have it tested. Bet it won't hold a charge. If so, you can only jump start the car by having the powered car connected for 10+ minutes and then turning ignition. My battery was just replaced. Had same issues.
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10-25-2011, 11:37 AM	#17
Potty_Pants Colonel 66 Rep 2,189 Posts Drives: 2012 Genesis Sedan Rspec Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern NJ iTrader: (0)	last bummer for me. __________________ Olds Starfire > Chevy Malibu > Isuzu I-mark RS & Honda Magna 500 > Grand Am GT & YSR50 > Nissan Maxima & Ninja 750 > X-Wife > Hyundai Excel > Honda Prelude > Honda Accord > Honda Prelude & Ninja 250> Infiniti G35 > E90 335i > Hyundai Genesis Rspec, Hyunadai Sonata > Kia Sorento > Honda CRV-EX
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10-30-2011, 04:22 PM	#19
Dynomyte Private First Class 11 Rep 166 Posts Drives: BMW 335i E92 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada iTrader: (0)	I am 100% sure I have this issue and I am out of warranty. Any suggestions to what I should do?
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10-31-2011, 10:50 PM	#20
Dynomyte Private First Class 11 Rep 166 Posts Drives: BMW 335i E92 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada iTrader: (0)	Bump. My car is completely dead as we speak. Any suggestions?
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11-01-2011, 04:21 AM	#21
hugus311 Titanium silver + Sport + Premium 32 Rep 662 Posts Drives: 2006 330i (E90) Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: west covina 626 iTrader: (6)	http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...use+box&page=2
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07-28-2020, 05:03 PM	#22
AWDBooSTIn90 Nomore 149 Rep 793 Posts Drives: 335i Coupe 6MT N54 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Long Island iTrader: (1)	You can also replace the fitting on your own if your capable or willing to learn to crimp a straight thru round hole end connector. It is a big AWG Wire. Maybe 4awg-2awg? It can be done. You cut the old corroded one off and crimp on the new connector or possibly also an extension piece if you need to cut back far on the copper cable to get to clean copper again, no more green corrosion. Then install a section of wire with the stud connector on the other end to the Fuxe Box(JB). But definitely do this at your own risk People will also find they might have this same corrosion on the two wires that go thru the body at the bulkhead connections in the battery box. So it would be good to give all these a good check: the wires from battery fuse block to battery box connection points. Which are insulated copper studs going thru the wheel-well sheet metal to the the outside PS wheel-well to the front. Then check the other side, the cable/connections on the wheel well side for corrosion, as well. Also theres a connection block area where the under-hood jump start positive (+) point. The Battery Cables B & B+ are located there but not connected.
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