[BMWMusician]

Brought my 08 e93 in and the dealer recommended a coolant flush, brake fluid flush, and their fuel system exchange, along with pads. My question is can most of this be done diy?

I'm wondering why I need a brake flush since I had a new abs system last year around September, and the other dealer had to bleed the brakes?

Fuel system exchange is basically changing the power steering and running the car with sea foam?

Now coolant exchange... is it really difficult? I'm looking for a detailed diy for it. Jacking the car and replacing the tpms transmitters were a breeze.

Any advice would be appreciated. Car has 49.5k miles.

[GATORB8]

Coolant DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...ing_System.htm

Brake flush and bleed are similar processes, but to different levels. A bleed "flushes" the air from the system then stops. A flush replaces 100% of the fluid (theoretically).

Brake fluid absorbs water and can "go bad" which is why it requires flushing.

[GATORB8]

Fuel system services can be a variety of things, but would not include flushing your power steering system. It's (fuel) kind of a dealer upsale/addon, as it's not specified maintenance.

A power steering flush is super easy, just suction the old fluid out of the reservoir, replace with new, drive around, then repeat a few times until the fluid is clean. You can also replace the reservoir w/ integral filter pretty easily while you're at it.

New pads is definitely something you can DIY and save a lot, you should either turn (refinish) your rotors or replace them at the same time. Most part stores could turn them for you. Don't forget to replace the sensor if necessary.

Note, prematurely replacing pads is a common upsell, you may have tens of thousands of miles left. Review your CBS in idrive/BC, it will give you an approximate remaining distance that is pretty conservative.

Pad DIY:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

[gjm120]

A comment on the Pelican coolant flush tutorial - it correctly states that the bleed/burp process is done with bleeder screw and coolant reservoir cap tightened. I've seen where quite a few people think the bleed screw needs to be loose to burp the system. The Pelican write-up is consistent with the Bentley manual.

Also, it's hard to get all the coolant out of the system. I took the tack that I'd do it every couple of years which will incrementally keep the coolant relatively fresh.

[BMWMusician]

Thanks for all the input GATORB8 and gjm120 , which one of these do you think I should tackle first?

Front Brake Pads
Replace Brake Fluid
Coolant Flush

This week I'm going to do the ps steering flush. Pads are at 5mm, so theres still miles left, and I think I need to order a few tools to do the pads, brake fluid, or coolant flush. I think Maybe the brake flush in the next 3-4 weeks, replace the pads around end of march/sometime in april, and do the coolant flush around the summer?

Idk if the coolant flush would be the hardest diy out of all 3? And the jack stands I have, I'm probably going to replace when I save up more for the esco ones.

[AceOnTheRiver]

you will need to electronically bleed the coolant system , heater on high etc.. with cap and bleed screw on tight. check out youtube for easy tutorial.

[gjm120]

If your brake fluid hasn't been done in over 2 years, that should be high priority (of course, assuming you still have brake pad life!) For me that also seems the most difficult which may be only because I haven't done that myself.

The coolant flush is not too difficult if you're content to get most not all of the old coolant replaced. Be sure to use BMW coolant and distilled water 50/50.

[BMWMusician]

Do I have to remove all 4 wheels to do the brake fluid flush, or just one on the front, and one one the rear? Also, do I need to use dis/gt1 in conjunction with it?

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by BMWMusician

Do I have to remove all 4 wheels to do the brake fluid flush, or just one on the front, and one one the rear? Also, do I need to use dis/gt1 in conjunction with it?

Not all at once. Start with right rear, left rear, right front and last will be left front. Real east with a power bleeder and a lot cleaner if you use the power blended dry. Dry bleeding takes a bit longer but worth it to me.

[BMWMusician]

Originally Posted by david in germany

Not all at once. Start with right rear, left rear, right front and last will be left front. Real east with a power bleeder and a lot cleaner if you use the power blended dry. Dry bleeding takes a bit longer but worth it to me.

How much is power bleeder, and how much do you think it will cost with all tools/supplies?

Dealer wanted $189.99 + plus tax.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by BMWMusician

How much is power bleeder, and how much do you think it will cost with all tools/supplies?

Dealer wanted $189.99 + plus tax.

Ecs has the bleeder and fluid in a kit for around 80. I would reccomend grabbing one of the catch bottles as well. Next time you are due you can just grab up another lit of fluid and nock it out again.

[BMWMusician]

I found this page:

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E93-33...Braking/Tools/

Why are they selling two catch bottles in a kit? Would that make it easier? How long do you think it takes to do the whole procedure? It takes me less than 10 minutes to remove two tires, and do I need a jack stand?

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by BMWMusician

I found this page:

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E93-33...Braking/Tools/

Why are they selling two catch bottles in a kit? Would that make it easier? How long do you think it takes to do the whole procedure? It takes me less than 10 minutes to remove two tires, and do I need a jack stand?

Takeing my time with just a jack it takes me 30-45 min. That is most likely the same kit I bought but I only used one catch bottle.

[BMWMusician]

Originally Posted by david in germany

Takeing my time with just a jack it takes me 30-45 min. That is most likely the same kit I bought but I only used one catch bottle.

Being my first time, I would guess 45-1 hour. So far from reading, it seems like this:

1. Jack up car, and remove right rear tire. Put jackstand.
2. Open power bleeder reservoir, and fill a liter of brake fluid.
3. Open hood, and open brake master cylinder reservoir, and siphon out most of the brake fluid (not all of it, dont let it go below a quarter below max).
4. Pump power bleeder to 20 psi, and put valve on brake master cylinder to pump new brake fluid
5. go to rear right rear tire, put open end wrench on bleeder, then receiver bottle and tube on bleeder, and release with wrench to let the fluid go to the bottle.
6. When the old fluid is out and you see new fluid, close and tighten back the bleeder, remove the bottle, and move to the new tire (right rear, left rear, right front, left front).
7. Keep an eye on the power bleeder to make sure it doesnt run out of fluid.
8. Once finished, reset brake fluid interval via the car (like you would with a oil change).

Would this be the right fluid?

[david in germany]

I do mine dry (don't fill the power bleeder)
Suck the old fluid from the resivoir first then full to max with fresh fluid. Attach the power bleeder and pump to 20 psi. Open the caliper bleeder and let the fluid flow. Every minute or so check the resivoir to make sure there is fluid. When the fluid level gets low, close the bleeder valve, disconnect the power bleeder and refill. Repeat as needed until complete.
The benefit of dry is you don't have the clean up mess when disconnecting the bleeder.
The fluid looks correct.

[2002]

Amazon has one for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc.../dp/B0002KM5L0

[Efthreeoh]

Okay, so you are getting into so serious DIY stuff.

Here's my advice to flush and bleed the brake system.

1) Use a power bleeder like the Motive unit and bleed the system WET (i.e. with brake fluid in the power bleeder). This eliminates the risk of putting air into the system.

2) Get all for wheels off the ground (use 4 jackstands) and remove all 4 wheels at the same time. Spray each bleed screw with penetrating oil and let soak while you follw the next steps.

3) Get a 10MM (rear) and 11MM (front - I think it's 11MM so double check first) flare nut brake screw wrench for loosening and tightening the bleed screws. If you don't want to buy flare nut wrenches, then use the box-end of a standard wrench. DO NOT USE THE OPEN END OF THE WRENCH because the is a good chance you'll round off the bleeder screw head.

4) Use a catch can and clear plastic tube into the can with a little bit of brake fluid in the catch can so to eliminate the risk of back-feeding air into the caliper.

5) Use a suction device like a turkey baster (there is an automotive version available at the parts store). Remove as much of the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and refill with fresh fluid.

6) Test fit the power bleeder to the master reservoir and test pressurize the bleeder. Be careful fitting the bleeder cap to the reservoir because you can easily cross thread it. Check for leaks. if no leaks then,

7) Bleed off the pressure, and fill the power bleeder with brake fluid according to the manufacturer of the bleeder instructions. Motive says to fill it half way full.

8) Put 18 to 20 PSI on the bleeder.

9) Start with the right rear (farthest wheel from the master cylinder - i.e. has the longest brake line). If using a flare wrench attach the clear tubing and catch bottle. Using the flare wrench open the bleed screw and allow the old fluid to bleed out. It only takes about 30 seconds. GENTLY close the bleed screw. All it needs to do is re-seat. Cranking down on the bleed screw does not make it seal any better. Its just a few inch-pounds of torque.

10) Repeat for the other three wheels

Now the reason I suggest taking all four wheels off at the same time, is a) the car is safer on 4 jack stands, b) if you screw up and get air in the system after bleeding the right rear, you'll have to start all over again. If you screw up with all 4 wheels off, you don't have to re-lift the car and re-remove the wheel.. get it?

Bleed the system wet with the power bleeder. Bleeding dry can lead to introducing air into the brake system. Bleeding wet prevents this. Experienced DIY'ers can bleed dry, but it takes practice. Your new at this, so you have a way better chance of fucking up trying to bleed using a dry pressure bleeder. Once your done the brake fluid in the bleeder can be poured back in the brake fluid bottle for later use. To clean the power bleeder, you need denatured alcohol to clean it. You wash out the power bleeder with denatured alcohol. The pour in a few ounces more and pressurize the bleeder to clean the tubing.

Get some oil-dry and a bucket so you can pour the old brake fluid and denatured alcohol into it then throw the oil-dry in the trash. Get a few cans of brake kleen to clean up the calipers once you are done. And get a few rolls of blue paper shop towels.

I've been bleeding brakes for over 30 years. This is the best method I've come up with. Don't spill the brake fluid, it can damage the paint if left on too long.

Have fun.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so you are getting into so serious DIY stuff.

Here's my advice to flush and bleed the brake system.

1) Use a power bleeder like the Motive unit and bleed the system WET (i.e. with brake fluid in the power bleeder). This eliminates the risk of putting air into the system.

2) Get all for wheels off the ground (use 4 jackstands) and remove all 4 wheels at the same time. Spray each bleed screw with penetrating oil and let soak while you follw the next steps.

3) Get a 10MM (rear) and 11MM (front - I think it's 11MM so double check first) flare nut brake screw wrench for loosening and tightening the bleed screws. If you don't want to buy flare nut wrenches, then use the box-end of a standard wrench. DO NOT USE THE OPEN END OF THE WRENCH because the is a good chance you'll round off the bleeder screw head.

4) Use a catch can and clear plastic tube into the can with a little bit of brake fluid in the catch can so to eliminate the risk of back-feeding air into the caliper.

5) Use a suction device like a turkey baster (there is an automotive version available at the parts store). Remove as much of the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and refill with fresh fluid.

6) Test fit the power bleeder to the master reservoir and test pressurize the bleeder. Be careful fitting the bleeder cap to the reservoir because you can easily cross thread it. Check for leaks. if no leaks then,

7) Bleed off the pressure, and fill the power bleeder with brake fluid according to the manufacturer of the bleeder instructions. Motive says to fill it half way full.

8) Put 18 to 20 PSI on the bleeder.

9) Start with the right rear (farthest wheel from the master cylinder - i.e. has the longest brake line). If using a flare wrench attach the clear tubing and catch bottle. Using the flare wrench open the bleed screw and allow the old fluid to bleed out. It only takes about 30 seconds. GENTLY close the bleed screw. All it needs to do is re-seat. Cranking down on the bleed screw does not make it seal any better. Its just a few inch-pounds of torque.

10) Repeat for the other three wheels

Now the reason I suggest taking all four wheels off at the same time, is a) the car is safer on 4 jack stands, b) if you screw up and get air in the system after bleeding the right rear, you'll have to start all over again. If you screw up with all 4 wheels off, you don't have to re-lift the car and re-remove the wheel.. get it?

Bleed the system wet with the power bleeder. Bleeding dry can lead to introducing air into the brake system. Bleeding wet prevents this. Experienced DIY'ers can bleed dry, but it takes practice. Your new at this, so you have a way better chance of fucking up trying to bleed using a dry pressure bleeder. Once your done the brake fluid in the bleeder can be poured back in the brake fluid bottle for later use. To clean the power bleeder, you need denatured alcohol to clean it. You wash out the power bleeder with denatured alcohol. The pour in a few ounces more and pressurize the bleeder to clean the tubing.

Get some oil-dry and a bucket so you can pour the old brake fluid and denatured alcohol into it then throw the oil-dry in the trash. Get a few cans of brake kleen to clean up the calipers once you are done. And get a few rolls of blue paper shop towels.

I've been bleeding brakes for over 30 years. This is the best method I've come up with. Don't spill the brake fluid, it can damage the paint if left on too long.

Have fun.

Very good write up!