[ttbmer]

i just finish with install of the Forge Dvs. very easy, finish in 15min or so. before installing my DP and CBE i could hardly to hear the wasgate rattle , and after the install the noise became lound, really really annoying, i started think i had an exhaust leak, i triple checked the install and everything looked good, so after awhile i got use to it and learn to ignore it.

today i change my stock DV for forge DVs and that problem is gone. i can hardly hear the wasgete and whatever else was making that horrible rattling noise is gone as well.

know debating if i should change the charge pipe soon or not

[Forcefed3]

Get an er charge pipe. I just ordered one along with synapse bov.

[ttbmer]

I don't know if I wanna go that round!! I want to upgrade the charge pipe but I don't think I want a blow off valve.

[Forcefed3]

Originally Posted by ttbmer

I don't know if I wanna go that round!! I want to upgrade the charge pipe but I don't think I want a blow off valve.

You dont have to get a BOV with the ER charge pipe. They sell one that will allow DV's.

[ttbmer]

Cool I will do that!! How much u paid??

[crazydrummer]

wait so your saying by simply installing forged dv's you can't hear wastegate rattle?

I didn't notice any rattle on stock downpipes then i put in my AR dp's and it is horrible. Tried tightening it and that helped a bit, still rattle at idle and especially on cold starts. Would you say the dv's make it sound more like it did on stock dp's? My car has 35k miles on it right now and really don't want to take it into the dealership for any warrenty drama if there is an easy fix (dealer ship is an hour away and i'm under 25 so no loaner)

[ttbmer]

Originally Posted by crazydrummer

wait so your saying by simply installing forged dv's you can't hear wastegate rattle?

I didn't notice any rattle on stock downpipes then i put in my AR dp's and it is horrible. Tried tightening it and that helped a bit, still rattle at idle and especially on cold starts. Would you say the dv's make it sound more like it did on stock dp's? My car has 35k miles on it right now and really don't want to take it into the dealership for any warrenty drama if there is an easy fix (dealer ship is an hour away and i'm under 25 so no loaner)

Yeah thats right!! My rattke was nasty!! I mean when accelating, when staring the car, when deaccelating almost at all time!
But now with the new forge DVs is like it was on stock DPs, no sounds no rattles.

[ttbmer]

Oh and 40k on my car!

[crazydrummer]

Awsome, what kind are they/where did u get them

[ttbmer]

Black forge DVs used, from a user here. Runing the yellow spring

[Forcefed3]

Originally Posted by ttbmer

Black forge DVs used, from a user here. Runing the yellow spring

Good choice.

[M3 Eater]

I can vouch for ER charge pipe. Best value in upgrades and very attentive staff. I saw and increase of 1 psi in my logs after install. Wider pipe, means more room for boost! Also the plastic on metal marriage that comes with a billet after-market DV and a plastic stock pipe is just begging for a poor seal. I got the 2010 version on the way that deletes the elbow so one less opportunity for leaks and the flex in the pipe that comes with rubber/silicone elbows. I had the 2007 version and wanted to move the bungs to a new location. They had me ship the pipe back and they are sending a pipe designed to my exact specifications... (hopefully soon!)

[crazydrummer]

can anyone give me some reasoning behinde why this covers up the sound? My car rattles like shit when its cold and i've tried tightening the actuator rods, it stops it, but a day or 2 later comes back. I'd really like to deal with this without taking off all my mods and going to the dealership but have a strange feeling that when i put the catted dp's back on the rattle won't be noticable. Any advice on what i should do?

[Thumperx]

Originally Posted by crazydrummer

can anyone give me some reasoning behind why this covers up the sound? My car rattles like shit when its cold and i've tried tightening the actuator rods, it stops it, but a day or 2 later comes back. I'd really like to deal with this without taking off all my mods and going to the dealership but have a strange feeling that when i put the catted dp's back on the rattle won't be noticeable. Any advice on what i should do?

My car had similar starting problem like you described. But, I think tightening the actuator may not have anything to do with it. Rather it’s the low pressure of the HPFP, and replacing them may solve this issue. Also, taking advantage of the recall for replacing the injectors may help. You mentioned "tighten up the actuator", which refers to a wastegate rattle, the dealer may want to try software updates to rectify this issue before replacing the turbos which is a lengthy and costly procedure.

I wouldn't worry about going into the dealer with your mods. They have seen plenty of other fanatics with mods too, but it's a cat and mouse game. For example, if you had an exhaust problem, then the DPs may be a related issue, and not the V5. If you're planning to go in, the "must" item to be removed is the V5. They will access this unit for programming. All other items in your sig should not be a major issue to them. They may note it for the future reference.

Having just received the car back from the dealer (with AFE intake installed and scoops, but removed my V5). They perform the recall of replacing all injectors, replaced the HPFP (although 933 model), software update, and 40k servicing. Lots of tasks were done at one time. Engine runs smooth and no cold weather start-up problems, so far and no charge.

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by crazydrummer

can anyone give me some reasoning behinde why this covers up the sound? My car rattles like shit when its cold and i've tried tightening the actuator rods, it stops it, but a day or 2 later comes back. I'd really like to deal with this without taking off all my mods and going to the dealership but have a strange feeling that when i put the catted dp's back on the rattle won't be noticable. Any advice on what i should do?

would like to know the same thing.

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by gbreeE90

You dont have to get a BOV with the ER charge pipe. They sell one that will allow DV's.

I wanted to get the ER charge pipe with the DVs but do you see how high the DVs sit..it wont work for me cause I have the Simota carbon fiber intake and it wont clear the DVs in the ER pipe

Here is a pic

[BimmerPod]

i just ordered my Forge DV. How do you know which spring to use?

I've been reading that most use the yellow springs. I will be running a procede v5, AMS IC, AR DP

[bigdaddycane]

..it wont work for me cause I have the Simota carbon fiber intake and it wont clear the DVs in the ER pipe

If I were you I'd get rid of the Simota intake. It's basically for show (CF) and has a very small filter in it. You could change to a BMS intake or a Injen and get some HP gains for swapping out the stock air box.

[Slops]

very intresting... my car is starting to make a rattle noise as well when i start it, but quiets down when the rpms goes down... its brand new though 3K on the clock and maybe i should look into this as well. Only upgrade so far is the Vishnu catless dp.

[ianthegreat]

Originally Posted by Thumperx

I wouldn't worry about going into the dealer with your mods. They have seen plenty of other fanatics with mods too, but it's a cat and mouse game. For example, if you had an exhaust problem, then the DPs may be a related issue, and not the V5. If you're planning to go in, the "must" item to be removed is the V5. They will access this unit for programming. All other items in your sig should not be a major issue to them. They may note it for the future reference.

Whatever you do... don't listen to this guy ^^

[NiVeDh]

Originally Posted by M3 Eater

I can vouch for ER charge pipe. Best value in upgrades and very attentive staff. I saw and increase of 1 psi in my logs after install. Wider pipe, means more room for boost! Also the plastic on metal marriage that comes with a billet after-market DV and a plastic stock pipe is just begging for a poor seal. I got the 2010 version on the way that deletes the elbow so one less opportunity for leaks and the flex in the pipe that comes with rubber/silicone elbows. I had the 2007 version and wanted to move the bungs to a new location. They had me ship the pipe back and they are sending a pipe designed to my exact specifications... (hopefully soon!)

Do you have a picture of the new version of the ER CP that replaces the stock accordion/balloon part?