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      11-13-2014, 09:20 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Let u know when you get those derlins installed and how they feel. Thx
installing in a few!
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      11-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #68
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Very cool. I'm looking to do this in a few weeks and I do a ton of long drives. I want it to firm up but mot ride like a go cart rattle box. No track for me. Was thinking M3, purple, or this.
Thx again.
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      11-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #69
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Would the aluminium ones ($500) be too hard for fast street use?
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      11-13-2014, 03:45 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
installing in a few!
You don't mess around!
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      11-13-2014, 03:54 PM   #71
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You don't mess around!
only thing is I don't like bleeding brakes...motors, turbos, suspension, tranny I am fine with lol! I am seriously thinking of crimping the line, taking loose, then reinstall with no bleeding. have seen a few do this method, Any thoughts?
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      11-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
Would the aluminium ones ($500) be too hard for fast street use?
full aluminium are 299.00 and "should" be a bit harsher than delrin. Apparently delrin is not to bad on NVH according to jake@motiv.
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      11-13-2014, 04:00 PM   #73
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Plus you minimally want the Al sleeves rather than just straight Delrin given how brittle Delrin is... longevity is better with this setup.
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      11-13-2014, 04:54 PM   #74
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Got my delrins today, amazing quality!
Man those things look awesome! Really interested to see how they drive
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      11-13-2014, 08:19 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisar82 View Post
Man those things look awesome! Really interested to see how they drive
Hope they are good, would of had then installed but can't give a brake bleeder...may just crimp the line lol!
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      11-14-2014, 10:58 PM   #76
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I can't understand why the Delrin sleeve doesn't sit flush on brace like others do? I am guessing for vibration ire some reason? Anbody know?
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      11-14-2014, 11:15 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
Would the aluminium ones ($500) be too hard for fast street use?
full aluminium are 299.00 and "should" be a bit harsher than delrin. Apparently delrin is not to bad on NVH according to jake@motiv.
Sorry to hijack your thread OP. Those bushes are the best looking bushes i've seen!

I really want to upgrade my SF bushes too, but from reading your experience and this thread i'm not too convinced on the OEM M3 bushes.

When you say the full aluminium ones would be harsher, how would that actually be felt in the driver's seat? Would it be harsh over bumps? Would it cause more oversteer?

I currently only have Ohlins, no other suspension mods. Planning to get an M Factory diff later next year and perhaps upgrade rear springs to swifts and M3 arms. Would full aluminium be advisable? Its a 335D btw
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      11-15-2014, 12:15 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
Sorry to hijack your thread OP. Those bushes are the best looking bushes i've seen!

I really want to upgrade my SF bushes too, but from reading your experience and this thread i'm not too convinced on the OEM M3 bushes.

When you say the full aluminium ones would be harsher, how would that actually be felt in the driver's seat? Would it be harsh over bumps? Would it cause more oversteer?

I currently only have Ohlins, no other suspension mods. Planning to get an M Factory diff later next year and perhaps upgrade rear springs to swifts and M3 arms. Would full aluminium be advisable? Its a 335D btw
you would feel everything in the road. These bushings are for heavily tracked car or higher hp car. For you I would go powerflex purple or black
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      11-15-2014, 03:41 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
Sorry to hijack your thread OP. Those bushes are the best looking bushes i've seen!

I really want to upgrade my SF bushes too, but from reading your experience and this thread i'm not too convinced on the OEM M3 bushes.

When you say the full aluminium ones would be harsher, how would that actually be felt in the driver's seat? Would it be harsh over bumps? Would it cause more oversteer?

I currently only have Ohlins, no other suspension mods. Planning to get an M Factory diff later next year and perhaps upgrade rear springs to swifts and M3 arms. Would full aluminium be advisable? Its a 335D btw
BMW Motorsport Group N bushings are the best bet. Had I known about them prior to installing M3 bushings, that's the route I would've gone. Harder durometer rubber not polyurethane or solid aluminum. Since you have soft rear spring rates, M3 bushings should be fine.
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      11-15-2014, 06:53 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
I can't understand why the Delrin sleeve doesn't sit flush on brace like others do? I am guessing for vibration ire some reason? Anbody know?
Turn it 90 degrees so the flange lips line up? Am I missing something?
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      11-15-2014, 10:31 AM   #81
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I have Olhins with swift springs and yellow powerflex subframe bushings. My car is as comfortable as stock during normal driving conditions but under hard acceleration is uncontrollable and is very scary to drive as it TQ steers worse than any car I have driven.

I'm considering the powerflex black, group N or solid aluminum subframe bushings. I hate having power and not being able to use it. A lot of the m3 guys do solid subframe bushings and Delrin diff bushings. I already have purple diff bushings so it would make sense to do nothing less than black subframe bushings. I was with RobC during his Delrin install yesterday and can tell you they look even better in person. My only issue is they don't sit flush on the sub brace. I could see the bushing bolt break as the the sleeve hole is a lot bigger than the bolt. And it doesn't sit flush regardless of how you turn them.

My question is: which bushing is harder/stiffer? (Powerflex black or group N) Once I eliminate one of these I can decide whether or not to make the jump to solids. I would like to think solids would be ok as my Ohlins are too soft.
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      11-15-2014, 10:32 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Turn it 90 degrees so the flange lips line up? Am I missing something?
it doesn't fully seat on to it, indention isn't deep enough for brace to fully seat inside bushing. It basically bottoms out before flanges on bushing make contact with brace.
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      11-15-2014, 12:12 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
it doesn't fully seat on to it, indention isn't deep enough for brace to fully seat inside bushing. It basically bottoms out before flanges on bushing make contact with brace.
If it's any help a couple of pics of the install on my car are here if you scroll down a bit:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=justpete
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      11-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
If it's any help a couple of pics of the install on my car are here if you scroll down a bit:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=justpete
we have the the exact same set up basically lol! My bushings seat in subframe perfectly, its the subframe brace (front) that doesn't seat fully in indention. The rear I don't even use as my exhaust doesn't hang from it.

You have something I have always wanted to do, the trailing arm bushings, stock I can flex with my hand and could see benefeit from this. Did you notice a difference?
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      11-15-2014, 01:03 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete
Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
it doesn't fully seat on to it, indention isn't deep enough for brace to fully seat inside bushing. It basically bottoms out before flanges on bushing make contact with brace.
If it's any help a couple of pics of the install on my car are here if you scroll down a bit:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=justpete
You have a 328i right? How much power are you running?

Would you take a pic of how your delrins sit on the subframe brace? Rob's sit 1/4 inch higher than stock.
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      11-15-2014, 01:14 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
it doesn't fully seat on to it, indention isn't deep enough for brace to fully seat inside bushing. It basically bottoms out before flanges on bushing make contact with brace.
Got it. That's weird indeed.

What are you going to do? Keep or go group N?
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      11-15-2014, 01:17 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Got it. That's weird indeed.

What are you going to do? Keep or go group N?
I would not want to take those delrins out...major pitia!
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      11-15-2014, 02:30 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
we have the the exact same set up basically lol! My bushings seat in subframe perfectly, its the subframe brace (front) that doesn't seat fully in indention. The rear I don't even use as my exhaust doesn't hang from it.

You have something I have always wanted to do, the trailing arm bushings, stock I can flex with my hand and could see benefeit from this. Did you notice a difference?
There's one pic on the second page where you can see the bushing sitting in the front brace but you'd have to zoom in on it. Not sure if it tells you what you need to know.

The trailing arm bearings went in at the same time as everything else so I couldn't say what they did by themselves although the whole point of the work was to turn the suspension into as close a facsimile as a race suspension as possible. You'd use solid adjustable trailing arms on a racecar but a street car really should have the OE parts installed to minimize damage in the event of an accident by folding up. The spherical bearings make it as solid a link as possible given this limitation.
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