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      11-12-2012, 07:41 PM   #1
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335 went nuts

So I was about to rip it off of a red light as it turned green, but my car decided to lose power. No cel but car isn't what it is. I'm getting the fan to turn on by itself and the temp shows red. WTF is this?! Temp was 220 until I turned off for 10 min then back on but still no power
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      11-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #2
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How many miles? check codes, sounds like waterpump.
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      11-12-2012, 07:57 PM   #3
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I'm thinking waterpump also. 55k miles.

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How many miles? check codes, sounds like waterpump.
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      11-12-2012, 08:22 PM   #4
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Damn, sorry to hear OP. Let us know how it goes. Do you have warranty still? CPO?
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      11-12-2012, 08:24 PM   #5
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Yea, probably water pump based on milage. Scan codes to be sure.
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      11-12-2012, 08:44 PM   #6
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Waterpump failed
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      11-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #7
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Scanned. No codes!? Wtff

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Yea, probably water pump based on milage. Scan codes to be sure.
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      11-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #8
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No cpo. But I scanned the car and got no codes.. I'm pissed

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Damn, sorry to hear OP. Let us know how it goes. Do you have warranty still? CPO?
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      11-12-2012, 08:47 PM   #9
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Scanned. No codes!? Wtff
You have a JB4 based on your sig I'm assuming. Did you have auto-clear on?
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      11-12-2012, 08:49 PM   #10
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You have a JB4 based on your sig I'm assuming. Did you have auto-clear on?
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      11-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #11
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Nope, I never clear codes with jb4. I use a macttools scanner

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You have a JB4 based on your sig I'm assuming. Did you have auto-clear on?
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      11-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #12
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Nope, I never clear codes with jb4. I use a macttools scanner
there's a feature on the jb4 that will automatically clear codes like the ones u get with catless downpipes.
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      11-12-2012, 09:20 PM   #13
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Yes I know. I'm just saying I never used it. I always used and cleared codes thru my scanner but I tried reading codes with the jb4, nothing came up

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there's a feature on the jb4 that will automatically clear codes like the ones u get with catless downpipes.
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      11-14-2012, 11:30 AM   #14
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As stated I would bet money on the water pump.
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      11-14-2012, 12:17 PM   #15
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Open the cap to the coolant reservoir and run the water pump bleed procedure by turning your ignition on, but not starting the car, turning the heat to 84, and holding the gas pedal for like ten seconds. You should see water squirting through a small hole in the neck of the reservoir where the small tube comes in. You should also here your water pump cycling.

If you don't see the water moving, and hear the pump, then I would replace the pump.
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      11-14-2012, 01:49 PM   #16
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dude its your waterpump...do not drive the car or you will blow something in the engine. happened to me and i turned it off immediately.

you could actually check your waterpump by turning it on for the bleeding process. you have to turn the car to the on position without starting your car and put your heater on the highest temperature set at low speed fan and hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds and it should turn on.

if you pop your hood you should be able to hear intermittent sounds of the waterpump turning on and off. if you cant the obviously your waterpump has failed.

what you could do though is stop your car and let it sit for a while so the temp goes all the way down and if you are like less than a few minutes away from the dealership just drive it there but only if its a few minutes away.
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      11-14-2012, 02:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
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dude its your waterpump...do not drive the car or you will blow something in the engine. happened to me and i turned it off immediately.

you could actually check your waterpump by turning it on for the bleeding process. you have to turn the car to the on position without starting your car and put your heater on the highest temperature set at low speed fan and hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds and it should turn on.

if you pop your hood you should be able to hear intermittent sounds of the waterpump turning on and off. if you cant the obviously your waterpump has failed.

what you could do though is stop your car and let it sit for a while so the temp goes all the way down and if you are like less than a few minutes away from the dealership just drive it there but only if its a few minutes away.
Whoa buddy, he is not going to blow up anything. The car is smart enough to throw CEL and reduce power to prevent anything going wrong. Though dangerous, nothing to crazy to worry about.

OP it is the water pump. Super Loud fans, No power (car can bearly rev when hot) Yellow coolant and red coolant lights pop up.

it could be bad or connection to water pump is bad. Id drive home and then get BMW to tow it unless the dealership is close.
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      11-14-2012, 02:49 PM   #18
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im out of warranty and i put ~4 miles since the issue and is sitting it at my work parking lot. i will try the bleeding process and keep you guys updated. i actually found a good deal on ecs tuning actually but do not want to wait until december for the pump.

i had a buddy from bmw quote me 420$ for pump $20 coolant $7 aluminum screws but about $150 for thermostat when i can buy the t-stat from ecs for about $85.

i actually prayed that people would have answers before i buy/fix anything just in case. i will do the bleeding process first.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by idrift4wd View Post
Whoa buddy, he is not going to blow up anything. The car is smart enough to throw CEL and reduce power to prevent anything going wrong. Though dangerous, nothing to crazy to worry about.

OP it is the water pump. Super Loud fans, No power (car can bearly rev when hot) Yellow coolant and red coolant lights pop up.

it could be bad or connection to water pump is bad. Id drive home and then get BMW to tow it unless the dealership is close.
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      11-14-2012, 05:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrift4wd View Post
Whoa buddy, he is not going to blow up anything. The car is smart enough to throw CEL and reduce power to prevent anything going wrong. Though dangerous, nothing to crazy to worry about.

OP it is the water pump. Super Loud fans, No power (car can bearly rev when hot) Yellow coolant and red coolant lights pop up.

it could be bad or connection to water pump is bad. Id drive home and then get BMW to tow it unless the dealership is close.
its smart enough to reduce power but if your engine still gets too hot which it will even with reduced power then your engine is too hot. when you get a red engine light it means stop and do not drive any further or you could possibly harm your car.

even at idle with outside temps at 60 degrees my car water temps get up to 204-209 degrees Celsius so can you imagine when your car isnt running a water pump how hot it would get just sitting there?

trust me there is a reason why bmw doesnt want you to drive when you get a red warning light...means something critical is wrong. something might not go wrong but i wouldnt take my chances as getting an engine part fixed is probably minimum $3000 with labor compared the towing savings of $150.

either way good luck OP and i can guarantee its your water pump with the things you described as thats what happened to me at 60k miles...exact same symptoms and to help you out i got it fixed at the dealership as i needed done asap and they charged me $1100 for everything which is a fair price at a dealership.

if you find the parts new online somewhere you could probably get them for $600 and either do it yourself or get an indy shop to install which might save you a couple hundred but to me its just piece of mind that i dont mind paying for to get it done at the dealership. saving $100-$200 for a job over $1000 really isnt enough for me to go elsewhere.
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      11-14-2012, 09:41 PM   #20
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thanks for the info. yea like you said, i am getting OEM pump from the dealer and OEM thermostat from them as well. but i will have an indy shop do the work saving me around 460$ :P

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Originally Posted by cleex024 View Post
its smart enough to reduce power but if your engine still gets too hot which it will even with reduced power then your engine is too hot. when you get a red engine light it means stop and do not drive any further or you could possibly harm your car.

even at idle with outside temps at 60 degrees my car water temps get up to 204-209 degrees Celsius so can you imagine when your car isnt running a water pump how hot it would get just sitting there?

trust me there is a reason why bmw doesnt want you to drive when you get a red warning light...means something critical is wrong. something might not go wrong but i wouldnt take my chances as getting an engine part fixed is probably minimum $3000 with labor compared the towing savings of $150.

either way good luck OP and i can guarantee its your water pump with the things you described as thats what happened to me at 60k miles...exact same symptoms and to help you out i got it fixed at the dealership as i needed done asap and they charged me $1100 for everything which is a fair price at a dealership.

if you find the parts new online somewhere you could probably get them for $600 and either do it yourself or get an indy shop to install which might save you a couple hundred but to me its just piece of mind that i dont mind paying for to get it done at the dealership. saving $100-$200 for a job over $1000 really isnt enough for me to go elsewhere.
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      11-15-2012, 11:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi Stunt' View Post
thanks for the info. yea like you said, i am getting OEM pump from the dealer and OEM thermostat from them as well. but i will have an indy shop do the work saving me around 460$ :P

Sounds exactly like what happened to mine @ 113K.
Most likely your water pump has failed.

I got the code "2E81" with my Bav tool

Tischer has it for 420.00
ECS for 440.00 (****When mines went out, not sure if it was a special or what not, it was $375 on ECS )

Good luck
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      11-15-2012, 12:50 PM   #22
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thanks buddy. i actually got a discount at BMW dealership and buying pump for $420. coolant for $20 and the alum bolts for $7

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Originally Posted by GreekMaverick View Post
Sounds exactly like what happened to mine @ 113K.
Most likely your water pump has failed.

I got the code "2E81" with my Bav tool

Tischer has it for 420.00
ECS for 440.00 (****When mines went out, not sure if it was a special or what not, it was $375 on ECS )

Good luck
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