[Syndicategt]

SyndicateGT’s Custom Intake DIY :

Before I start with the install DIY, I wanted to thank Mr. 5 for his ingenuity and design of this intake, Trevor, and Bahn Storm for his help on my specific intake. I’ll post some datalog results in the next few days, but I think Mr. 5’s research speaks for itself. I’m posting this DIY to show you how easy it is to make your own, as I know there are many people out there who think it’s very difficult, expensive, and time consuming.

If you are still too afraid of attempting this yourself, I’ll be glad to do the air box for you. Just PM me and we can work something out.

Final version:




Installation Difficulty: Easy with a few tools bought from your local hardware store
Installation Time: 2 hours for the intake / 1 hour to prep the car / 1 hour for the actual install = 4 hours total + 6 pack of beer
Cost of Installation:
- BMS Drop-In Filter + Cone Intake (http://www.burgertuning.com/intakes.html) = $100
- Spectre Intake Tube Adapter (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-8148/) = $8
- 4’ Mc-Master Carr Super Abrasion Duct (http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=cx1x0u) = $25
- Spectre Air Duct Cuffs (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-87411/) = $14
- Worm Clamps = $4
- Hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers) = $5
- Silicon = $3
- (Optional) Intake Box = $100-405 used to new
- (Optional) 3” Hole Cutter = $25

Tools:
- Flat Head screwdriver
- 8mm, 10mm, 17mm sockets
- Torx bits
- Socket wrenches and extender (torque wrench optional)
- Drill + bits
- 3” hole cutter
- Hammer
- Wire cutters
- (Optional)Magnet
- Lift to remove tire
- Chisel or X-acto blade
- Sandpaper
- Silicon
- Loctie
- Zip Ties
- (Optional) Dremel

Step 1 – Prep the intake box
- Remove intake box (use the DIY found here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30688)
- I used wire cutters to cut out the plastic grids on the outside of the box, removed roughly 4” x 4” square. Once the big chunks were cut out, I used a chisel/x-acto blade to remove the smaller bits still left on. Finally, I used 80 grit sandpaper to make the surface smooth.
- Next, I took my 3” hole cut drill bit and cut out the hole. Once cut, I used my sandpaper to smooth everything out, as I don’t want any bits of plastic going into my cylinders.
- Here is a photo of the drill bit and hole cut:




Step 2 - Assembly of intake box and ducting
- Align the Spectre intake adapter with the air box. Mark the 4 corners and drill into the intake box to fit whatever size bolt you are going to use. I could not make 2 of the 4 Spectre intake adapter pre-drilled holes work, so I had to cut though that as well.



- Once all 4 holes are drilled, do a quick test fit with all your nut and bolts. After a good test fit, put a small line of silicon around the ring wall of the Spectre intake adapter.
- Now you can install the Spectre intake adapter to your air box. I used Loctie on my bolts to ensure they will not come off and go into the engine. Once everything is on, I put another small line of silicon on the outside of the air box around the edge of the Spectre adapter.




- Let dry overnight
- Screw the Spectre duct cuff on one end of your duct, make sure it’s on tight. Now take your worm clamp and tighten the cuff around the intake adapter.



Step 3 – Prep the car and modify the power steering reservoir bracket
- With the intake already out, remove the power steering reservoir. You need to use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 nuts. Lift up the reservoir and place it off to the side. The bracket is tricky. There is a 10mm bolt at the top and x2 10mm bolts at the bottom. I suggest using an extender on the end of your socket wrench to remove the 2 bolts at the bottom, you will most likely have to move around some rubber hoses near them to get to the bolts. All of it can be accessed from the top of the engine bay and it’s also a good idea to keep a magnet nearby incase you drop something.
- Once you get the bracket out, you will see a triangular piece of metal on the bracket that needs to be cut out. It’s attached by 3 tac welds on once side and 2 tac welds on the other. I used a drill but to cut out the tac welds, I’m sure a cut saw would make this quicker, it’s not necessary but will make the job easier and faster. Take a wedge, or screwdriver, and hammer and try to brake off the triangular piece of metal.
- Without removing this piece of metal, the 3” ducting will not fit.
- Take a Dremel or file and remove any sharp pieces of metal, you don’t want it cutting though the ducting.



- Re-install the bracket and move the power steering reservoir 1 bolt over. It will only be attached by 1 bolt now.



Step 4 – Test fit air box and cut ducting
- Take driver’s side wheel off.
- Remove inner wheel well. There are x7 8mm bolts and x1 10mm plastic hat. Be careful when taking off, there is a wire attached to the wheel well that doesn’t need to be removed.
- Now it’s time to install the air box. Place it in position and run the ducting down behind the bracket. I bought a 4’ hose which was too long so it needed to be cut. Mark the hose to the length you want it then take everything back off again. Use scissors to cut though the rubber part of the hose, then I had to use a Dremel to cut the metal wire in the ducting (it was too thick for wire cutters).
- Place the second Spectre duct cuff on the end you just cut.

Step 5 – Final install
- Place the intake back onto its seat, and tighten the worm clamps on each side. You can also put the drop-in filter in, cover, and snorkel on at this time.
- Run the ducting though the bracket and down to it’s spot behind the bumper.



- Take your worm clamp and cone intake and tighten on the duct cuff.
- I used 2 zip ties together and placed around the ducting just behind the cone intake. I found a spot to attach the zip ties to on the bumper.



- Re-install wheel well and wheel (torque 17mm lugs to 95lbs)
- Check to see if everything is installed properly (don’t forget about the brake line near the intake).
- Drive around and have fun!


*If you have any questions, comments, or concerns please feel free to PM me.

**If you notice any errors let me know via PM.

***Here are some extra references for your reading pleasure (thanks to Bahn Stormer).

Mr.5's original intake design:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...3538&highlight

Mr. 5's update:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...9293&highlight

Mr. 5 VBox testing:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352077

Bahn Stormer Dyno test and design:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549854

Zasquatch design (machined flange/coupling):
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=535820

rwalker reservoir bracket (post #61):
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=352077&page=3

[seetully]

amazing write up man, looks nice cant wait to see datalogs

[frozenfire]

I started collecting the parts for this already! Cant wait till I get everything in and have a free weekend to do this!!

very nice write up!

[dbjb]

Saw this first hand. Quality work and nice writeup.

[Syndicategt]

Originally Posted by frozenfire

I started collecting the parts for this already! Cant wait till I get everything in and have a free weekend to do this!!

very nice write up!

Good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I saved some $ and just used my BMS DCI cone intake The Vishnu one's have a different diameter and may have to be modified.

[tmo335tt]

Nice work

[E90MCF]

Bawlin'!!!

[bahn stormer]

Originally Posted by Syndicategt

Good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I saved some $ and just used my BMS DCI cone intake The Vishnu one's have a different diameter and may have to be modified.

I used the same filter as the Vishnu DCI, S&B part # R0738. It is 3" ID, same as the hose. Because of this the coupling is simpler, 3" OD to 3" OD, and the full hose and filter are 3". I would recommend it to people who need to purchase a cone filter and don't already have a BMS one available.

[Syndicategt]

1 month update:

The intake has held up extremely well in the 100+ deg weather, I feel no heat soak at all. Nothing has popped off or come apart. The car pulls all day long, strong and consistant! This is something I didn't experience with the DCI's, I felt the power drop off at high RPM with hot temps. I recently tracked the car at Infineon with great results and will be heading to Thunderhill in a few weeks. Great mod to do if you are wanting to upgrade the DCI's or the restrictive other aftermarket intakes.

[dzenno]

Synicategt, the company that you listed above won't sell an intake and ship internationally and its pretty hard to find a good 3" hose up here so far...how does that hose look on the inside, is it completely smooth or is it wavy like on the outside? I don't think it matters much but still would prefer something smooth on the inside..

[Sales@modmy3.com]

Nice, this was the cleanest out of them all!

[Syndicategt]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Synicategt, the company that you listed above won't sell an intake and ship internationally and its pretty hard to find a good 3" hose up here so far...how does that hose look on the inside, is it completely smooth or is it wavy like on the outside? I don't think it matters much but still would prefer something smooth on the inside..

Very smooth on the inside, you couldn't tell from the outside. It's not smooth like a silicon hose, but it's close enough.

[Persian_535i]

So the cone filter sits near the bottom of the car, what happens if it rains does it suck in all the water?

[Syndicategt]

Originally Posted by Persian_535i

So the cone filter sits near the bottom of the car, what happens if it rains does it suck in all the water?

No, basic physics says air will take the path of least resistance. If the cone filter goes completely submerged in water, the air will pass though the stock intake snorkel and not the cone filter. You will have no issues with hydrolock with this setup. Now if you have a pure CAI, with no stock intake snorkel, then it will hydrolock if you drive in deep water. You can also adjust the height of the cone filter as needed. I live in a very dry climate so I have a completely exposed filter, if it rains where you live, feel free to tuck the filter up behind the bumper.

[bahn stormer]

Originally Posted by Syndicategt

No, basic physics says air will take the path of least resistance. If the cone filter goes completely submerged in water, the air will pass though the stock intake snorkel and not the cone filter. You will have no issues with hydrolock with this setup. Now if you have a pure CAI, with no stock intake snorkel, then it will hydrolock if you drive in deep water. You can also adjust the height of the cone filter as needed. I live in a very dry climate so I have a completely exposed filter, if it rains where you live, feel free to tuck the filter up behind the bumper.

+1
OEM Air Snorkel acts as a siphon break. You cannot develop a vacuum deep enough to pull water up the cone filter suction hose unless the OEM airflow path becomes completely obstructed.

[Patronus86]

I know this thing has been dead for a while. I am totally in love with this DIY for economical and effective CAI solution. Is there any risk/issue with the metal screws and bolts being exposed to the air inside the intake it (like metal shavings, obviously on a miniscule level, getting sucked into the engine)? What about rubber or silicone bits (from the incision in the stock air box) getting sucked in? I am not doubting this mod's performance, I just want to make sure there's no risk of harming the engine.

Maybe I'm being paranoid.

[nikitino25]

I'm in the process of doing this mod myself albeit with a smaller 2.5" diameter intake tube. I've already used a hole saw and cut the hole in my airbox and test fitted the flange but the problem i'm running into is that the mating surface on the inside of the airbox where the flange goes up against the wall of the airbox is not even. I think I may just try to sand down the high side and even it out but was wondering what others have done. You'll see what I'm talking about if you look inside the airbox on the side that the hole goes on; it's like one side is stepped higher than the other up to a certain point....I guess I could also just kind of form it up with rtv silicone but then i'm worried about that junk eventually disintegrating and making it into my engine or turbos as posted above....

[mythek]

great detailed tutorial. I have so much more confidence doing this myself after reading yours. I do have one question for you or for anyone who has similar design intake. Can you fit this with a charge pipe w/ blow of valve kit?

thanks for your responses.

[damnsin]

Hey can u make me one? I'm willing to pay
Email. Krnboysin@hotmail.com