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      11-26-2010, 01:38 PM   #1277
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Originally Posted by hieracity View Post
Hi there, I am looking to take advantage of your Black friday special and get myself a buffer but I don't have the slightest idea of how to go about picking one.

I am a complete noob and have very little know how on detailing a car so I would really appreciate your input. My car is black and has a lot of swirl marks and also has water spots.

Firstly, which buffer is recommended for complete noobs (so that i don't mess up the paint even more) and what all compounds should be looking to get?

Thanks (i am sure that there might be some posts about this already but it's quite a lengthy process to go through all the pages. So if you could also refer me to another post, that would be great )

edit: some research shows that i should stick with a orbital buffer. What do you think?
Thanks for the post. You got it right sticking with the orbital buffer. This narrows it down to two great options, the Porter Cable 7424 XP and the Flex XC 3401VRG. Both buffers have their pros and cons and are safe for first time users. The PC is the more popular of the two, primarily because it's been on the market much longer and it's more cost effective. The other benefit the PC offers over the Flex is the ability to use a variety of backing plates, meaning it's easy to use a variety of size pads. Smaller pads on random orbitals will offer more correction and more control. Plus you can get in much tighter areas with a smaller 4" pad. The Flex on the other hand, offers much more power (because of a much bigger motor) which means faster correction. The Flex is also a dual action machine meaning as it orbits it also has a forced rotation. The limitation on the pad size is either 5.5" pads or 6.5" pads, you cannot use a 4" pad on it. Another nice feature of the Flex is the variable speed trigger, so as you are approaching trim or the edge of a panel, you can dial back the speed.

Depending on the level of swirls in your paint will determine which polish and pad combination to go with. A good combination to start with is Meguiar's M105 and M205. It works great on random orbital buffers and is pretty easy to get good results with the combo. I'd recommend reading through this M105/M205 article for optimal results.

We do have a couple of packages with these buffers and polishes and pads.

PC w/ M105 & M205 and pads

Flex w/ M105 & M205 and pads

That would certainly be a great start. Other options I like are the Menzerna polishes as well.

Before polishing, I'd highly recommend claying your paint and after you definitely want to protect with your choice of sealant or wax.

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Originally Posted by Tony717 View Post
Good Morning,

My outside mirrors have become stained as a result of water; although not a problem while driving during the day, it is problematic during the night as a result of car's headlights. Is there a way to clean them in order to eliminate the water stains, or is replacing the glass the only option?

Thank you for your help

Tony
You could try a chemical polish, like Klasse All In One, or something you could try is 0000 grade steel wool with some distilled white vinegar. This would remove mineral deposits remaining on the glass / mirror. Other than those couple of things, then I'd probably just replace the side mirror.

Keep us posted how it turns out.
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      11-27-2010, 11:22 PM   #1278
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Would like a little feedback after a couple detail jobs!

Hey guys,

So I have years and years of washing and detailing cars (at least once a week, all cars in the household) and normally wax the cars in the spring and fall. Poeple say I'm obsessed...I think I like to retain value

However, over the past couple of weeks I've started learning about paint correction. After spending what seemed like 30 hours on this forum section and reading the Detailing 101 thread five times, I placed an order thru Detailed Image for all the necessities.

The first car attempted was my 08 E90 335 in Sparkling Graphite. Not many swirl marks or scratches, just a lot of orange peel that I wanted to get rid of. (after reading the 'life of my M3" thread) The other cars include a Black Audi A4 and Cadillac El Dorado, both swirled a lot.

A couple questions:
--Does anyone have experience with Sparkling Graphite? It seems it is a Very HARD paint.[/B] For example, I had done the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on speed 6 with the orange pad FOUR TIMES, and saw no 'results'. After pulling the tape divider off, the polished side didn't look much better than the untouched side. The polished side felt a tiny bit smoother, but not significant. As I was expecting/wanting to see 3-5 microns off, It didn't seem to do much of anything. I will attempt to do it again with Meguiars 105, and perhaps the purple wool pad? Would you suggest the wool pad, or is that too abrasive for what I'm trying to do? The other cars swirl marks seemed to react better to the SIP and orange pad.

-- I used the Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it seemed to be easier to apply it by hand with a microfiber pad. Is this really less effective than putting it on with the orbital on speed 3?

-- Washing towels: I got the powder packs that I mixed with 3 gallons of water for the PADS, but what can/should I use to wash microfiber towels that have polish/sealant/wax on them?

--Klasse Sealant:
*****Is 3 or 4 coats overkill? If it chemically bonds to the paint, after the 2nd coat I'd think it would have no paint to bond to, so would it bond to the existing sealant and make another layer? I'm wondering if 4 coats actually gives more protection than 2
*****Is there a reason to not use this sealant on the windows? I know there are specific window products, but will this be just as effective?


Thanks for all the previous help guys, I learned A LOT from this section. I'd greatly appreciate advice for the questions above!
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      11-28-2010, 05:04 PM   #1279
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Originally Posted by BrianMN View Post
Hey guys,

So I have years and years of washing and detailing cars (at least once a week, all cars in the household) and normally wax the cars in the spring and fall. Poeple say I'm obsessed...I think I like to retain value

However, over the past couple of weeks I've started learning about paint correction. After spending what seemed like 30 hours on this forum section and reading the Detailing 101 thread five times, I placed an order thru Detailed Image for all the necessities.

The first car attempted was my 08 E90 335 in Sparkling Graphite. Not many swirl marks or scratches, just a lot of orange peel that I wanted to get rid of. (after reading the 'life of my M3" thread) The other cars include a Black Audi A4 and Cadillac El Dorado, both swirled a lot.

A couple questions:
--Does anyone have experience with Sparkling Graphite? It seems it is a Very HARD paint.[/B] For example, I had done the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on speed 6 with the orange pad FOUR TIMES, and saw no 'results'. After pulling the tape divider off, the polished side didn't look much better than the untouched side. The polished side felt a tiny bit smoother, but not significant. As I was expecting/wanting to see 3-5 microns off, It didn't seem to do much of anything. I will attempt to do it again with Meguiars 105, and perhaps the purple wool pad? Would you suggest the wool pad, or is that too abrasive for what I'm trying to do? The other cars swirl marks seemed to react better to the SIP and orange pad.

-- I used the Klasse Sealant Glaze, and it seemed to be easier to apply it by hand with a microfiber pad. Is this really less effective than putting it on with the orbital on speed 3?

-- Washing towels: I got the powder packs that I mixed with 3 gallons of water for the PADS, but what can/should I use to wash microfiber towels that have polish/sealant/wax on them?

--Klasse Sealant:
*****Is 3 or 4 coats overkill? If it chemically bonds to the paint, after the 2nd coat I'd think it would have no paint to bond to, so would it bond to the existing sealant and make another layer? I'm wondering if 4 coats actually gives more protection than 2
*****Is there a reason to not use this sealant on the windows? I know there are specific window products, but will this be just as effective?


Thanks for all the previous help guys, I learned A LOT from this section. I'd greatly appreciate advice for the questions above!
Regarding the SIP and no results... Menzerna is a diminishing abrasive polish that is designed specifically for rotary use. While it can work using a random orbital, it takes some tweaking of the technique to really get results out of it. What size pad are you using with it? The smaller the pad on a random orbital, the better the results (or more cutting action) you're going to get. So a 4" pad will correct noticeably more than 6.5" pads but obviously, you don't cover as much area and it takes much longer to detail.

Regarding the wool pads, that's not the answer with random orbitals... another product designed more so for rotary use. The reason wool pads are used with rotary buffers is because rotaries can generate a lot more heat due to spinning in one continuous circle and the wool fibers help keep the paint cooler than foam pads will. The just happen to offer more cut in addition to keeping the paint cooler. Your best bet for maximum cut with a PC and M105 is to go with the Surbuf pads. Again, smaller the pad you go with the better the correction you are going to get. I'd recommend reading through this article as well for maximum results: M105 + Surbuf + PC

There's no benefit of applying a sealant with a buffer, it's just a matter of preference. Polishing is the only step that benefits from application with a quality buffer, glazes, sealants and waxes give you the same result by hand or buffer applied.

What I find best is to keep a 5 gallon bucket ready for both pads and towels. You can mix them together using the Snappy Clean packets or use a degreaser. Put the used pads and towels in the bucket immediately after use, do not wait... this will make cleaning them significantly easier. After you soak the towels (and pads) use your thumbs to run them over the towels and pads every 30 mins or so to help release product. After the detail, then wash the towels in your washer and dryer without any fabric softener and store them properly.

You'll reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly when you venture into the 3rd and 4th coat. I recommend at least 2 coats of Klasse HGSG (or any sealant for that matter) primarily to ensure full even coverage but also for the added benefit of increased protection and slightly more depth and gloss. I do notice with the Klasse the look is better with multiple coats compared to just one. Use it on your exterior glass too, it works great at repelling water.

Hope this helps, keep us posted how your next polishing session goes.
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      11-28-2010, 07:47 PM   #1280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Regarding the SIP and no results... Menzerna is a diminishing abrasive polish that is designed specifically for rotary use. While it can work using a random orbital, it takes some tweaking of the technique to really get results out of it. What size pad are you using with it? The smaller the pad on a random orbital, the better the results (or more cutting action) you're going to get. So a 4" pad will correct noticeably more than 6.5" pads but obviously, you don't cover as much area and it takes much longer to detail.

Regarding the wool pads, that's not the answer with random orbitals... another product designed more so for rotary use. The reason wool pads are used with rotary buffers is because rotaries can generate a lot more heat due to spinning in one continuous circle and the wool fibers help keep the paint cooler than foam pads will. The just happen to offer more cut in addition to keeping the paint cooler. Your best bet for maximum cut with a PC and M105 is to go with the Surbuf pads. Again, smaller the pad you go with the better the correction you are going to get. I'd recommend reading through this article as well for maximum results: M105 + Surbuf + PC

There's no benefit of applying a sealant with a buffer, it's just a matter of preference. Polishing is the only step that benefits from application with a quality buffer, glazes, sealants and waxes give you the same result by hand or buffer applied.

What I find best is to keep a 5 gallon bucket ready for both pads and towels. You can mix them together using the Snappy Clean packets or use a degreaser. Put the used pads and towels in the bucket immediately after use, do not wait... this will make cleaning them significantly easier. After you soak the towels (and pads) use your thumbs to run them over the towels and pads every 30 mins or so to help release product. After the detail, then wash the towels in your washer and dryer without any fabric softener and store them properly.

You'll reach a point of diminishing returns rather quickly when you venture into the 3rd and 4th coat. I recommend at least 2 coats of Klasse HGSG (or any sealant for that matter) primarily to ensure full even coverage but also for the added benefit of increased protection and slightly more depth and gloss. I do notice with the Klasse the look is better with multiple coats compared to just one. Use it on your exterior glass too, it works great at repelling water.

Hope this helps, keep us posted how your next polishing session goes.
Wow, THANK YOU for taking the time to give such a detailed response! (no pun intended)

I'm using the 6.5" pad, but will give the 5.5 or 4" a try! I've also got an order in for M105, pads, light, and a slew of other accessories. (that makes 3 orders in the past 2 weeks, haha)

Here's a picture of an A4 I was working on (not all deep swirls were removed)

I had posted up a new thread regarding capturing poor paint conditions on camera, do you have any advice for that?
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      11-29-2010, 07:57 AM   #1281
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Originally Posted by BrianMN View Post
Wow, THANK YOU for taking the time to give such a detailed response! (no pun intended)

I'm using the 6.5" pad, but will give the 5.5 or 4" a try! I've also got an order in for M105, pads, light, and a slew of other accessories. (that makes 3 orders in the past 2 weeks, haha)

Here's a picture of an A4 I was working on (not all deep swirls were removed)

I had posted up a new thread regarding capturing poor paint conditions on camera, do you have any advice for that?
Audi is notorious for having very hard clear coats. Many people with a PC would have a difficult time removing imperfections from that type of paint. Your best bet for those situations is M105 and a very aggressive pad (Surbuf would be ideal or a Cyan HydroTech Pad).

Capturing imperfections with your camera can be a difficult thing to do... your best bet is to use all manual settings if using an dSLR and you definitely need good lighting that reveals the imperfections. Make sure you aren't focusing on the reflection but the surface of the paint. A little practice and messing around with the settings should give you some results. Also, I found that no outside lighting helps, if you have windows letting light in, that can hinder capturing the results.

Hope this helps.
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      11-29-2010, 02:23 PM   #1282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Audi is notorious for having very hard clear coats. Many people with a PC would have a difficult time removing imperfections from that type of paint. Your best bet for those situations is M105 and a very aggressive pad (Surbuf would be ideal or a Cyan HydroTech Pad).

Capturing imperfections with your camera can be a difficult thing to do... your best bet is to use all manual settings if using an dSLR and you definitely need good lighting that reveals the imperfections. Make sure you aren't focusing on the reflection but the surface of the paint. A little practice and messing around with the settings should give you some results. Also, I found that no outside lighting helps, if you have windows letting light in, that can hinder capturing the results.

Hope this helps.
Thanks, it definitely seems that the Audi was much tougher than my Sparkling graphite E90. The manual focusing makes perfect sense, thanks for the tip! The current pics had definitely been focusing on the reflection and not the surface, so manually focusing it will help a lot!
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      11-30-2010, 08:01 AM   #1283
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Thanks, it definitely seems that the Audi was much tougher than my Sparkling graphite E90. The manual focusing makes perfect sense, thanks for the tip! The current pics had definitely been focusing on the reflection and not the surface, so manually focusing it will help a lot!
Glad I could help... if you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.
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      12-03-2010, 06:32 AM   #1284
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Probably asked before, but this just happened to me...

How do you remove gas stains from paint? A defective pump didnt stop by itself and it caused a major spill ahah. Cleaned the surface with water yesterday after it happened but I didnt knew it would leave a stain on the paint; just noticed that this morning.
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      12-03-2010, 10:50 PM   #1285
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George, another wax question! Used the 5050 before and was happy with that. Just picked up some dodo juice blue velvet from you so going to try that. What wax do you recommend for a jerez M3? I usually wax the car every 6-8 weeks and apply jetseal twice a year with two coats each time. So many choices out there! Thanks!
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      12-04-2010, 11:58 AM   #1286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusJ View Post
Probably asked before, but this just happened to me...

How do you remove gas stains from paint? A defective pump didnt stop by itself and it caused a major spill ahah. Cleaned the surface with water yesterday after it happened but I didnt knew it would leave a stain on the paint; just noticed that this morning.
That's enough to ruin someone's day! Before attempting to fix it, I would go to the gas station to document and photograph the damage with the owner/manager, incase it turns worse and costing big $$. In which case, the owner should be and IS liable to pay for all damages. My aunt had that happen to her new Saturn (10 years ago) and they reluctantly gave her a FREE car wash...but the bumper still started peeling within the next year.

All I'm sayin...Make sure it didn't cause more damage than you realize.
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      12-06-2010, 07:35 AM   #1287
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Washed the quarter the day after the event happened and it completely disapeared. It wasnt that big of a stain, maybe just a oily finish on the clear.

But I was ready for the worst. I was even ready to polish and rewax/polish/glaze.

But now its gone! A new polish should definitely settle things.
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      12-07-2010, 04:35 PM   #1288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J BONE View Post
George, another wax question! Used the 5050 before and was happy with that. Just picked up some dodo juice blue velvet from you so going to try that. What wax do you recommend for a jerez M3? I usually wax the car every 6-8 weeks and apply jetseal twice a year with two coats each time. So many choices out there! Thanks!
The Dodo Juice Blue Velvet will be a nice wax for Jerez. If you liked how the 5050 worked, I really like the finish of Pete's '53 on darker colors. Goes on and off very easily and is pretty wet looking. Beyond the Blue Velvet and that, it jumps up to the $100 or so range for a wax that offers different / better characteristics.

I think you'll really like the Blue Velvet though. Make sure the paint is properly prepped before applying it, that makes the biggest impact on the results you'll get out of the wax.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusJ View Post
Washed the quarter the day after the event happened and it completely disapeared. It wasnt that big of a stain, maybe just a oily finish on the clear.

But I was ready for the worst. I was even ready to polish and rewax/polish/glaze.

But now its gone! A new polish should definitely settle things.
Glad to hear it is gone, I apologize for not getting to this in time. As BrianMN mentioned it could have been bad. The first step I usually take on stains like that is to use a chemical polish to try to remove any residue or oxidation before digging into the clear coat. Klasse All In One is usually what I'd try first in those scenarios.
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      12-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #1289
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Ok just saw the paint spill situation and got a bit scared.

About 2 months ao when removing the gas nozzle a whole bunch of fuel spilled all over my paint, I came home and read online a couple hours about what to do and then just took it through a touchless car wash and washed it off.

Is there a chance that there was damage done that will show up later? Is there anything I should do now even though it was so long ago?
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      12-08-2010, 01:06 PM   #1290
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Ok just saw the paint spill situation and got a bit scared.

About 2 months ao when removing the gas nozzle a whole bunch of fuel spilled all over my paint, I came home and read online a couple hours about what to do and then just took it through a touchless car wash and washed it off.

Is there a chance that there was damage done that will show up later? Is there anything I should do now even though it was so long ago?
I wouldn't be too concerned if there isn't anything remaining on your paint from the spill. Perhaps when you detail your car, give that area a little extra attention with the clay or polish stage, but other than that, I wouldn't worry about it.
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      12-08-2010, 01:20 PM   #1291
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These gas spillage stories make me quiver and cringe!
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      12-08-2010, 03:37 PM   #1292
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Thanks for the reply... I'll def give it some extra attention.
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      12-09-2010, 12:06 PM   #1293
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how do u get swirl marks?
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      12-09-2010, 01:03 PM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMN View Post
These gas spillage stories make me quiver and cringe!
Agreed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. G View Post
Thanks for the reply... I'll def give it some extra attention.
Sounds good. Let us know how everything turns out for you.

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Originally Posted by CPWINCH View Post
how do u get swirl marks?
Swirl marks are typically created from some variation of improper washing or drying techniques or contaminated towels, pads, applicators that touch your paint. Swirls are essentially minor scratches and are usually created by dragging dirt (or some other form of contamination) over your paint without lubrication. The only way to permanently eliminate swirls is to properly polish your car and take the steps needed to ensure you're washing and drying using the best technique and proper equipment.
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      12-09-2010, 05:57 PM   #1295
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Do you know anybody in la who knows how to wash cars without causing swirl marks and can wax and detail preferably in the san fernando valley
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      12-11-2010, 09:24 AM   #1296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
The Dodo Juice Blue Velvet will be a nice wax for Jerez. If you liked how the 5050 worked, I really like the finish of Pete's '53 on darker colors. Goes on and off very easily and is pretty wet looking. Beyond the Blue Velvet and that, it jumps up to the $100 or so range for a wax that offers different / better characteristics.

I think you'll really like the Blue Velvet though. Make sure the paint is properly prepped before applying it, that makes the biggest impact on the results you'll get out of the wax.

Thanks George. I will use up the Blue Velvet and test it out. So far, one application, it seems good. Appreciate the response!
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      12-12-2010, 05:50 PM   #1297
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Do you know anybody in la who knows how to wash cars without causing swirl marks and can wax and detail preferably in the san fernando valley
I'd check out Eric from Envious Detailing, he's in OC, but would be worth the drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J BONE View Post
Thanks George. I will use up the Blue Velvet and test it out. So far, one application, it seems good. Appreciate the response!
Sounds good, keep me posted on your thoughts of the wax as you get to use it some more and see how it holds up to the elements.
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      12-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #1298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
I'd check out Eric from Envious Detailing, he's in OC, but would be worth the drive.
I dont have the 500 dollars for the drive. Do you know anyone closer. Thanks
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