[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mjz

Just sent you a PM I've been following this great thread online. Wondered if you would also recommend an auto care package for me. I just purchased my first BMW, a 2009 335i convertible. It's a CPO from the local dealer. Black with red leather. It's my everyday driver car and I have children. Not a lot of time to detail it constantly, but want to take care of it. Recommendations on a full car care package? I need it all!

Thanks in advance.

Congrats on the new ride! I'm going to suggest a full detail as I normally would with some of my favorite products.

Wash and Dry
Most swirls come from this process so be sure to use good technique and quality products. If you need to upgrade your products check out these kits:
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package

Clay Bar
Helps deep clean the paint.
DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube

Polish
This is the step where you actually remove the swirls for good and restore that like new shine again!
Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad 2x
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - Lake Country White Polishing Pad 2x

Sealant
Protect the shine and enhance it!
Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger - Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad 1x

Wax
A sealant provides more than enough protection and an outstanding shine so you can certainly stop there. If you want the maximum gloss apply a wax on top of the sealant.
Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax - Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad

Hand remove all of these products with CLEAN microfiber towels. I highly recommend picking up about 5x - 10x DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel.

If you have any questions please check out our detailing guide or ask me I'd be happy to help!

Wheels and Tires
To clean the wheels I highly recommend the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect. It's my favorite wheel cleaner because of how effectively it breaks down brake dust and road grime. Best of all it's pH neutral so it's safe on your wheels and you don't have to worry about any staining or discoloration. After you have thoroughly cleaned them you can protect them with virtually any sealant or pick up a wheel specific product like the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. It's a great way to protect the wheel's finish and it makes future cleanings much easier! It applies with ease, smells amazing and one jar can protect 100+ wheels.

TUF SHINE Tire Appearance Kit is easily my favorite tire care product, just thoroughly clean the tires with the supplied cleaner and the tire clear coat will provide you a shine that lasts MONTHS, not days or weeks.

Interior
The Leatherique products are my go to choice for the leather seats, they do a great job of cleaning and conditioning the leather. The 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover is perfect for interior cleanings as it can be used safely on the doors, dashboard, console, etc.

303 Aerospace Protectant protects just about the whole interior (vinyl, plastic, rubber, leather). It blocks out UV rays and preserves the finish so apply it to the dashboard, doors, console, arm rests, exterior trim, rubber moldings, etc. etc. Protecting the carpets and mats is super easy just mist the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard on them and you are done! It will help repel moisture while keeping the fibers flexible and soft.

If you follow these basic pre-cautions your vehicle will look great for years to come and keep the re-sale value up! If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Take care!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rogerdiaz

Is it okay to use Optimum Spray Wax after using quick detailer (optimum no rinse mixture)? Will the wax actually stay on or does car need to be rinsed with 100% water and dried for it to work??

Thanks,

Roger

Roger,

If you've washed with the ONR or just used it as a quick detailer the spray wax should still bond to the surface fairly well. Try to make sure you've removed the excess ONR and let the surface dry before applying a nice thin coating.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by plantationwalrus

This isn't BMW-related, but I'm hoping you guys can help. I have a white 1994 Volvo 940 turbo with a lot of deposits on the paint. It used to be garaged, but my 335d took its place :P.

I wax it 2x/yr and clay once a year, but it was never "buttery smooth". I use Meguiar's clay, but it doesn't pick up everything-- even after claying the same 2'x2' section for ~10 mins. Should I be using a different type of clay? More aggressive clay? Any help would be appreciated

I'm not sure what the issue is but give the age of the vehicle and the fact that those previous efforts didn't solve it here is what I recommend:

Wash and Dry - should remove most of the loose build ups
CarPro Iron X Iron Remover - helps remove embedded iron deposits from brake dust, rail dust, etc.
Clay Bar or NanoSkin AutoScrub Medium Foam Pad - to remove the remaining deposits and ensure the surface is contaminant free
Polishing - This is the step where you really create the shine and remove micro-fine surface abrasions (ie swirls, oxidation, etc.). It's the most important step in getting that deep shine back and ideally I'd recommend a two step process with a buffer. If you have the time this kit would be absolutely ideal - DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. If you don't the time or funds I'd still highly recommend doing at least a one step process with medium pressure with the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.
Protection - Apply your favorite sealant or wax, I personally recommend sealants since they are so much more durable. The Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection is my favorite because of the incredible shine, protection and ease of use.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[mjz]

Greg,

Thanks for the detailed recommendation. I placed my first order earlier this week. It should be here tomorrow!

-Marc

[Detailed Image]

Very much appreciated! I hope you enjoy the products!

Greg @ DI

[mjz]

Greg - I received my products and got to work on my interior this weekend. Let me first off say that the products you recommended are awesome. Noticeable difference. Now my wife wants me to tackle the interior of her 6 year old mini-van!

A couple of follow-up questions for you....
1) I noticed that on my driver seat some of the leather seemed to "rub off" and a bit of red dye came up from the leather. NOTE: I used Leatherique. I'm guessing this has something to do with the seat being a little worn in a couple of spots. What should I do?

2) I got Leatherique on a few black plastic parts of my 335i. The Leatherique caused some of the matte black finish to "blister and pop". Now revealing a shiny black undercoat. Guessing I should not have let the Leatherique sit on it. Anything I can do?

Thanks again.

-Marc

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mjz

Greg - I received my products and got to work on my interior this weekend. Let me first off say that the products you recommended are awesome. Noticeable difference. Now my wife wants me to tackle the interior of her 6 year old mini-van!

A couple of follow-up questions for you....
1) I noticed that on my driver seat some of the leather seemed to "rub off" and a bit of red dye came up from the leather. NOTE: I used Leatherique. I'm guessing this has something to do with the seat being a little worn in a couple of spots. What should I do?

2) I got Leatherique on a few black plastic parts of my 335i. The Leatherique caused some of the matte black finish to "blister and pop". Now revealing a shiny black undercoat. Guessing I should not have let the Leatherique sit on it. Anything I can do?

Thanks again.

-Marc

Marc,

Glad to hear the products overall were a huge success! Others asking you do their vehicle is inevitable when you do good work. Just make sure you are compensated, lol.

As for the Leatherique I'm guessing you may have rubbed a little too hard while working them in. I would only use very light pressure going forward and monitor trouble spots. In general the dye should not be coming off so if it keeps happening you may want to stop or be extra careful. To be safe I would apply the Leatherique with literally my bare hands, since they are softer. I would also use less product so less would need to be wiped away afterward.

In general the Leatherique products work great on vinyl trim. I've used it to treat vinyl that looked overly dull and it can make it look normal again. Since it works so well on vinyl I'm surprised to hear it may have caused any issues on plastics. I've honestly never heard of this type of issue so I'm not sure happened. Leatherique is a gentle all natural formula so I would normally think it was not cause. The marks could have come from something else being used in the vehicle but maybe it was just noticed as you got close to it. If you are certain it was the cause I guess I would just be very careful with the application and only pour it on, don't use a spray top. Sorry I don't have more specifics for you.

Greg @ DI

[divisionbell77]

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

[Weaselboy]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

According to this the QD ratio is 8 OZ per gallon (128 OZ). So one fourth that, 2 OZ for your 32 OZ sprayer. Or four capfuls in the 32 OZ sprayer.

[fooledyas]

hi
I'm sure this has been asked before but my brain hurts from reading thru all the search results, so I'll just ask i have 2 alpine white BMW's 2011s a black 2010challenger all in great shape maybe some very light swirl marks and some water spots
i'm looking to get the pc polisher mostly to save wear and tear o my arms. All the different kits u have its hard to pick the one thats right 4 me. i like getting a deal but don't want to get a bunch of unneeded stuff.

[kalamokid]

EDIT POST
Hello experts. I'm about to pull the trigger on some products. From what I understand the two most popular interior products used are

1 303 AEROSPACE PROTECTANT W/SPRAYER (16OZ)

And
2 1Z EINSZETT COCKPIT PREMIUM W/SPRAYER (16.9OZ)

I also understand that both products are used for different reasons. My question is what would be a correct schedule and sequence of use for each product?

Would you use the einszett once a week on dash and trim and use the 303 once a month to protect? Any help would be great thanks!

[MCMLXXXIX]

Looking through my products and Ive found a bottle of Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, Poorboys SSR1 and SSR2.5 that I purchased in summer of 2009. Is there an expiration date on these products? They all have between 60-80% left each. Id hate to dispose of them

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I have the big old 1 gallon jug of ONR and was going to make some quick detail spray out of it, but before hand wanted to double check my mixture.

I have 32 ounce spray bottles, from what I can tell it would take either 1 1/2 or 2 ounces of ONR for 32 ounce of water. The jug does not state the QD mixture, but from what I found it to be both 6 and 8 ounce per 1 gallon of water.

It somewhat depends on how it's being used as a quick detailer and personal preference. I think you can use it about 2oz to 30oz of water, but you may prefer a richer concentration for a slicker surface. 8oz of ONR to 24oz of water is probably on the high side of what could be used for a quick detailer so somewhere in that range should be fine. If you want to be extra safe go up to 8oz and if you need a better value try using a bit less, you can always add more ONR to the spray bottle if needed. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by fooledyas

hi
I'm sure this has been asked before but my brain hurts from reading thru all the search results, so I'll just ask i have 2 alpine white BMW's 2011s a black 2010challenger all in great shape maybe some very light swirl marks and some water spots
i'm looking to get the pc polisher mostly to save wear and tear o my arms. All the different kits u have its hard to pick the one thats right 4 me. i like getting a deal but don't want to get a bunch of unneeded stuff.

I understand so many choices can make it hard. In general I would suggest you pick up the DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP 5.5" Starter Kit, and you can select any combination of pads you prefer by adding a comment in the comment field.

As for products if you just want to use a very light polish try the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) is a great choice applied with at least two white pads. This will help safely remove very fine imperfections, oxidation, etc. and restore a great shine. Afterward you can protect the surface and enhance the shine with a quality sealant. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is one of my favorite choices and can be applied with the blue pad.

I hand remove both of these products with clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel, probably at least 2 - 3 to remove the polish and 1 - 2 for the sealant. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by kalamokid

EDIT POST
Hello experts. I'm about to pull the trigger on some products. From what I understand the two most popular interior products used are

1 303 AEROSPACE PROTECTANT W/SPRAYER (16OZ)

And
2 1Z EINSZETT COCKPIT PREMIUM W/SPRAYER (16.9OZ)

I also understand that both products are used for different reasons. My question is what would be a correct schedule and sequence of use for each product?

Would you use the einszett once a week on dash and trim and use the 303 once a month to protect? Any help would be great thanks!

The Einszett 1Z Cockpit Premium is a great choice for a light cleaning and protection. I think using this weekly or bi-weekly makes sense. If you want additional protection that is better suited to block UV rays the 303 Aerospace Protectant can be applied. Once a month is about right for this product depending on conditions. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by MCMLXXXIX

Looking through my products and Ive found a bottle of Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, Poorboys SSR1 and SSR2.5 that I purchased in summer of 2009. Is there an expiration date on these products? They all have between 60-80% left each. Id hate to dispose of them

In general detailing supplies usually last about 4 - 5 years in ideal condition assuming they were not exposed to extremely high or low temps. After 4 - 5 years they tend to slowly lose their effectiveness. When using a questionable product I would shake it vigorously first and then pour out a tiny bit on an applicator if the color and texture is consistent I would then proceed to testing it on a small non-visible area. Inspect the results carefully and if you don't see any issues it's probably safe to continue using. If it will not mix properly and look uniform it's probably best to just throw it out, but you could try a test spot if desired.

Greg @ DI

[divisionbell77]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

It somewhat depends on how it's being used as a quick detailer and personal preference. I think you can use it about 2oz to 30oz of water, but you may prefer a richer concentration for a slicker surface. 8oz of ONR to 24oz of water is probably on the high side of what could be used for a quick detailer so somewhere in that range should be fine. If you want to be extra safe go up to 8oz and if you need a better value try using a bit less, you can always add more ONR to the spray bottle if needed. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI

I'd be using it when drying the car. Dry car with microfiber weave(spot method) and then mist with QD and finish with ultra soft microfiber towel.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by divisionbell77

I'd be using it when drying the car. Dry car with microfiber weave(spot method) and then mist with QD and finish with ultra soft microfiber towel.

I'd probably start with it more diluted and if you don't like the results add in more ONR as needed. Otherwise it sounds like a good plan. If you have any questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[newtobimmer23]

I recently got my car detailed by a reputable detail center and I'm not sure what to make of it. The paint is exceptionally smooth and great shine. In indirect sunlight, the car looks great and almost brand new.

Sitting in the garage under led and halogen lights, the car looks stunning. However, in direct sunlight, it seems there is some haze going on or the sun hitting the panels and just a weird effect going on that wasn't there before.

Not sure if it is too much product and after a hand wash, it'll be fine or there is damage done. What can it possibly be and what can I do to remedy it? Thanks.

[nation]

could you suggest a wax for sparkling graphite? im currently using meg #16 wax.
it worked great on the sti but i think for the money theres got to be something that will really make the paint look deep.

[nitehawk]

Hi Greg,

Quick question. How do you typically recommend applying a sealant: by hand or with a PC? I have both the DI Yellow Foam Applicator Pads for hand application and the 5.5" Blue Fine Finishing Pads to use with the PC. The sealant I will use is Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Is there any need to apply pressure or is the natural movement of my hands adequate?

[WesleyC]

Hi Greg,

Sorry if this has been covered, but I've been having a hard time with my exhaust tips. There is a ton of carbon that has been a pita to remove. I've used the Magic Eraser (both normal and extra strength) with decent results, but it is still not good enough for me. Would 0000 steel wool be a better option? Is there any sort or liquid/paste that you would recommend for me to use to help break down the carbon before I start scrubbing with the steel wool?

Thanks,
Wes