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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Silicone Vacuum Line Replacement



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      01-31-2015, 11:01 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayuri Krab
Thread bump, I accidently broke the plastic connector on one of the boost solenoid and I'm in the process of ordering a new one from ECS, while I'm at it would it be wise to replace them both at the same time?

One other noob question, how would I go around removing them? From what I can see the solendoid is held onto the metal plate by 2 bolts (top and bottom), how do I go around undoing the bolt on the bottom? No of my tools fit under there...

Would one of those 'bendy' (there shows my lack of knowledge on tools) screw driver things do the trick?

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2 bolts on each, to get to the bottom one, You can used a 1/4 ratchet with a 1/4 universal joint attachment - good idea to buy a set of these, but I don't think I needed it for this repair. Or a flex head ratchet might work too. For the front one, un bolt your coolant expansion tank (2 bolts), and have a second pair of hands hold it out of the way for you while you undo the solenoid bolts. Be careful not to drop the bolts, or this 30min job could turn into a headache.
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      02-04-2015, 12:18 PM   #90
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      03-19-2015, 10:14 AM   #91
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Hey guys,

Anyone tried the 3mm because it's very difficult to found the 3.5mm, I only found 3 or 4mm in Europe...
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      03-22-2015, 10:19 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rif75 View Post
Hey guys,

Anyone tried the 3mm because it's very difficult to found the 3.5mm, I only found 3 or 4mm in Europe...
4mm should work too. 3mm might be too small.
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      03-22-2015, 11:43 AM   #93
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4mm can cause leak, that's why I will try 3mm, I already ordered so I give you a feedback
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      03-22-2015, 11:51 AM   #94
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what size is the intake manifold vac nipple by throttle body.I havent changed that one yet & want to change it.My TiAL bov is bigger though.would i have to use a reducer coupling to connect?
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      03-22-2015, 02:56 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
what size is the intake manifold vac nipple by throttle body.I havent changed that one yet & want to change it.My TiAL bov is bigger though.would i have to use a reducer coupling to connect?
Its 3.5mm hose for the intake man. Perhaps a 4mm may fit snug, not sure. How big is the tial?

This is one of the better hoses, esp since is not too thick walled...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Black-...72db5c&vxp=mtr
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      03-22-2015, 02:58 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rif75 View Post
4mm can cause leak, that's why I will try 3mm, I already ordered so I give you a feedback
Think 3mm is going to be real hard in some places, esp the wastegate barbs!
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      03-22-2015, 04:16 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Its 3.5mm hose for the intake man. Perhaps a 4mm may fit snug, not sure. How big is the tial?

This is one of the better hoses, esp since is not too thick walled...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Black-...72db5c&vxp=mtr
not sure its a barbed Tial Q 50.could be a 1/4 od going over barb.
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      03-22-2015, 04:49 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
not sure its a barbed Tial Q 50.could be a 1/4 od going over barb.
The Tial Q50 BOV has a 10mm hose flange. Using 3.5mm hose it is a very tight fit going over the flange but I was able to make it work.
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      03-22-2015, 06:10 PM   #99
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Crazy thing it's that in ebay.de I can't found the same product made in Germany

Now I ordered the 3mm, if it doesn t feet, I ll ordered another 3.5mm at the dealer, it's 1 meter for 12€


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Its 3.5mm hose for the intake man. Perhaps a 4mm may fit snug, not sure. How big is the tial?

This is one of the better hoses, esp since is not too thick walled...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Black-...72db5c&vxp=mtr
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Last edited by rif75; 03-22-2015 at 07:43 PM..
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      03-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rif75 View Post
Crazy think it's that in ebay.de I can't found the same product made in Germany

Now I ordered the 3mm, if it doesn t feet, I ll ordered another 3.5mm at the dealer, it's 1 meter for 12€
Yea that is crazy! Dealer has silicone tubing?
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      03-22-2015, 07:44 PM   #101
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No it's not. I don't know if silicone is very important, new OEM can old too I think. I'm using 21psi for now and will use 23psi soon but no more.
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      04-06-2015, 12:24 PM   #102
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I just replaced mine yesterday and it was not too bad. Getting the line back onto the front turbo was the worst, took about 30 minutes. I removed the vacuum canisters and bracket to get more room to work. There is not much room to get a hand in there. My stock lines had 86K on them and they didn't look to bad. The ones entering the bottom of the vacuum canisters were the worst.

I bought 17' of 3.5mm line and had about 6-7 feet left over. I did not do the diverter valve lines since I have a BOV and replaced the line when I installed it. I also ended up breaking one of the two T's off the boost solenoids, luckily I had some generic spares and replaced them both.

Is there an additional vacuum line running under the car to the exhaust valve that needs to be replaced too?
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      04-20-2015, 10:30 AM   #103
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Just a heads up when doing this project. I unbolted my coolant expansion tank to make room for me to work and ended up snapping the vent hose that goes from the expansion tank to the upper radiator hose. All the coolant line plastic is brittle. Be very careful or this 2 hour/$10 job can end up costing you $50+ like it did me.
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      05-26-2015, 09:33 AM   #104
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What is the size of the nipple on the intake manifold that goes to the BOV? Will 3.5mm work for this as well? or do I need larger?
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      05-26-2015, 10:46 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illrider View Post
What is the size of the nipple on the intake manifold that goes to the BOV? Will 3.5mm work for this as well? or do I need larger?
I used the 3.5mm on that. It worked fine.
For the front turbo actuator, I cut a very slight bevel on the inside of the replacement lines to help it start on the nipple. It's a very tough spot to reach, but it went right on with a slight bevel.

edit- like this-
View post on imgur.com
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      05-26-2015, 07:33 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
I used the 3.5mm on that. It worked fine.
For the front turbo actuator, I cut a very slight bevel on the inside of the replacement lines to help it start on the nipple. It's a very tough spot to reach, but it went right on with a slight bevel.

edit- like this-
View post on imgur.com
Good job! Yes 3.5 is fine.
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      07-03-2015, 10:27 PM   #107
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Just finished doing all the lines. I love this diy. I was getting the dreaded 30ff code.
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      08-08-2015, 08:19 PM   #108
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Thx all for this thread. Helped me replace all my hoses. Should be good for 50K. Used this hose: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ilpage_o06_s00

Not as sexy as some of the hose mentioned here but it is high temp and fairly thick so should last a while and not have problems with collapsing. Time will tell!
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      08-14-2015, 12:40 PM   #109
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Quote:
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Thx all for this thread. Helped me replace all my hoses. Should be good for 50K. Used this hose: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ilpage_o06_s00

Not as sexy as some of the hose mentioned here but it is high temp and fairly thick so should last a while and not have problems with collapsing. Time will tell!
Awesome. Hoping for some similar results this weekend.

So you used 4mm? I've been seeing 4mm and 3.5. How did yours fit? Not sure what difference 0.5mm makes in this setting.
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      08-14-2015, 04:25 PM   #110
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There's a thread on "the other forum" about how a 4mm line makes a bov respond much more quickly, replacing the whole system sounds like a good idea imo
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