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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > Clutch DIY Tips and Tricks



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      10-17-2014, 01:38 PM   #1
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Clutch DIY Tips and Tricks

I replaced the clutch on my 2009 335i this week and figured I would share some things I picked up along the way. I had trouble finding a good source of information, so I hope this can be helpful to someone. Below is a list of parts needed and optional stuff as well. My car only had 33k miles on it, so I wasn't worried about replacing everything such as flex disc, pilot bearings, rear main seal, etc. I just needed a clutch to hold more power so I put in the 335is/650i clutch.
I bought the Bentley manual to help me figure it out. It more or less tells you to replace all the bolts. I ordered them and replaced them, but I must say, I think you can reuse them with the exception of the 5 aluminum bolts holding the bellhousing. Those 5 bolts are replaced with steel ones now, and I'm told that is how BMW has spec'd it. This concerned me with torque specs as the torque to yield on an aluminum bolt is certainly much different than that of a steel bolt. I quickly realized the specs in the manual for, say, 11 ft-lbs + 190 degrees where never going to work. It would strip out well before I could hit that torque. So I found other sections in the Bentley where an M12 bolt, for example, gets torqued to 53 ft-lbs. That certainly felt like the right amount but I really don't know if it was. Now, onto the more useful stuff.

Tips:
1. The top 2 bellhousing bolts are hard to get to. Remove all the cabin air filter stuff to be able to reach down from the top. Have 1 person underneath the car with a bunch of extensions and a universal joint while the 2nd person assists from the top side to guide the socket into place. I bet those bolts took 2 hours for me to figure out the best way to do it.
2. The 5 aluminum bolts that get removed and thrown away are E18. I didn't have an E18 but a 9/16" 12 point socket fits perfect and removed them without issue.
3. Those 5 aluminum bolts get replace with 5 steel bolts. The steel bolts use an E14.
4. Take lots of pictures because it can be hard to remember exactly where all the brackets go.
5. Many items require 2 people (exhaust removal, bellhousing bolts, trans removal). Have some help available when you need it.
6. Get the clutch alignment tool or make your own. I have another thread regarding this. ID: 15mm, OD: 32.5mm, Length: 35mm, M5x45 bolt.
7. It's easy to change the trans fluid and engine oil during this job. I recommend doing it to save you effort later.
8. Different year cars seem to use different trans bolts. Yours might vary from mine. I have a late-year 2009 build.
9. It is helpful (probably not required) to have a way to keep the flywheel from spinning while tightening the bolts. I made up a tool I will put in a post below. You could certainly find another way to do this though.
10. I specify a Felpro gasket below. This probably isn't nearly as good as some $20 gaskets, but they do work fine with a little modification and they have a 2.5" opening. The spacing between the 2 bolt holes is too wide. I took a die grinder (Dremel would also work) and made the holes much closer together (about 0.25" per side). You can match it up with your existing gasket or exhaust to get it right. It's not too hard to do.
11. Some jack pad adapters are useful when keeping the car off the ground on a lift. These can be easily made by taking 1" square steel stock and cutting it 2" long. Make 4 of them and they fit in the BMW jack pads perfectly. If you are using jack stands, I recommend a previous DIY of mine:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727131

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Last edited by LeMansBMW335i; 10-17-2014 at 07:57 PM..
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      10-17-2014, 01:39 PM   #2
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List of tools (probably missing some things!):
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2009 335i M-Sport: BMW Performance SSK/pedals/ spoiler/suspension/rear diffuser, 650i clutch, 35% tint, JB4, AFE DCI, Meth Injection, Ceramic coated VRSF Downpipes, ER Chargepipe, DTEC Angle Eyes, LED Interior and Reverse Lighting, Shift Light & Low Meth Light inside Rear View Mirror Clown Nose

Last edited by LeMansBMW335i; 10-17-2014 at 02:02 PM..
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      10-17-2014, 01:44 PM   #3
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Flywheel Locking Tool
PDF can be printed at 1:1 (check 1" box for size verification). Cut out of 1/4" steel or aluminum. DXF also attached if you have access to a machine that can cut it. You don't need all 3 slots, it just makes it easier to use. You can get away with 1 slot. This will get bolted to one of the tapped holes that will be present after you remove the transmission. Just use one of the bolts you took out to secure it. The flywheel is spaced a little off the engine face, so run your re-used bolt through the tool, then through a random nut approx 1/4" thick, then into the engine. Add additional nuts/washers between the bolt head and tool if you need to effectively shorten the bolt. It works great!
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File Type: pdf 335i flywheel lock.pdf (7.2 KB, 728 views)
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File Type: zip flywheel lock.zip (3.9 KB, 177 views)
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2009 335i M-Sport: BMW Performance SSK/pedals/ spoiler/suspension/rear diffuser, 650i clutch, 35% tint, JB4, AFE DCI, Meth Injection, Ceramic coated VRSF Downpipes, ER Chargepipe, DTEC Angle Eyes, LED Interior and Reverse Lighting, Shift Light & Low Meth Light inside Rear View Mirror Clown Nose

Last edited by LeMansBMW335i; 10-17-2014 at 03:58 PM..
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      10-25-2014, 10:01 AM   #4
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Do you have the torque specs for the three different bolt sizes for the transmission bellhousing?
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      10-25-2014, 06:20 PM   #5
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This was a section I found pretty confusion. I referred to the Bentley for all torque specs. In the Clutch section (page 210-12) it specifies the following:
M10x30: 20Nm+100°
M10x85: 20Nm+190°
M12: 25Nm+150°
I found a few issues with these numbers. There is no M10x30 bolt for one. There is no spec even given for the M8. The other is the angle they specify is so large that I don't think the engine side threads could handle the torque without stripping. Maybe with the original aluminum bolts, but I didn't think so with the new steel ones. It wasn't something I was going to risk, so I looked for more specs. In the Manual Transmission section (page 230-13), I found the following:
M8: 22Nm
M10: 43Nm
M12: 72Nm
I completed my install based off of the Manual Transmission section. I've done quite a bit work like this before, but I'm by no means a professional. What I can say though is that the torque values I used felt right. Definitely tight but I didn't feel like they were going to strip out.
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2009 335i M-Sport: BMW Performance SSK/pedals/ spoiler/suspension/rear diffuser, 650i clutch, 35% tint, JB4, AFE DCI, Meth Injection, Ceramic coated VRSF Downpipes, ER Chargepipe, DTEC Angle Eyes, LED Interior and Reverse Lighting, Shift Light & Low Meth Light inside Rear View Mirror Clown Nose
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      10-28-2014, 09:56 AM   #6
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To aid in the removal/assembly of the trans, I put together the below picture. I did some of this off memory, so I'm hoping it's right. I've read that different years use different bolts, so keep that in mind. Mine is a 2009 335i.
The picture includes bolt head size, bolt material, bolt (or bolt kit) part number, bolt size, and the torque that I believe is correct.
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2009 335i M-Sport: BMW Performance SSK/pedals/ spoiler/suspension/rear diffuser, 650i clutch, 35% tint, JB4, AFE DCI, Meth Injection, Ceramic coated VRSF Downpipes, ER Chargepipe, DTEC Angle Eyes, LED Interior and Reverse Lighting, Shift Light & Low Meth Light inside Rear View Mirror Clown Nose
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      12-31-2014, 07:20 PM   #7
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Anyone know the Torque specs to the flywheel bolts?
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      01-08-2015, 05:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335iNavyGuy View Post
Anyone know the Torque specs to the flywheel bolts?
The Bentley says to use new bolts and tighten to 89 ft-lb.
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      07-02-2019, 01:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeMansBMW335i View Post
To aid in the removal/assembly of the trans, I put together the below picture. I did some of this off memory, so I'm hoping it's right. I've read that different years use different bolts, so keep that in mind. Mine is a 2009 335i.
The picture includes bolt head size, bolt material, bolt (or bolt kit) part number, bolt size, and the torque that I believe is correct.
Been awhile since this has been posted. That picture is for manual. What would the bolts be for the automatic?
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      10-16-2023, 09:11 AM   #10
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Old thread here but shouldn't you replace the flywheel during this installation? Everything I'm reading says BMW recommends clutch and flywheel together. Thanks.
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      10-17-2023, 09:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaronbwall View Post
Old thread here but shouldn't you replace the flywheel during this installation? Everything I'm reading says BMW recommends clutch and flywheel together. Thanks.
it's a ''while I'm there'' situation.

In my previous papy cars , I didnt change it. only the disk and pressure plate.
However, my cars were not tuned or huge power.


the FW can have hot spot and the friction coefficient is lower than the pressure plate.
If from factory the clutch is known to be oversize, you wont feel any slip or drivability difference.

on a N54 I would change it, specially if you want big power.

I mean the job is huge enough, I would'nt cheap on that and replace the FW.
Like brake disk, you can simply change pads, but for the price go with rotor too.
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      10-18-2023, 08:09 AM   #12
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oVeRdOsE. yeah I'm leaning towards doing the flywheel and 335is clutch. Just feels like insurance. I have no plans to go big power anyways. I enjoy the MHD tune and stock twins throttle response.
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