[ErvGotti]

Originally Posted by Ubersmooth

How do you like the turner flywheel?

I like it, the DMFW was causing false knock above 6K RPM causing me to go into limp mode, I'm at 470 WHP and 490 WTQ at 20 PSI on dynamic autoworks hybrids.

It chatters just as much as the M Factory lightweight flywheel on idle, but if you raise your idle to 900 rpm on mhd, it gets rid of 90% of the chatter on idle. Slight increase in NVH.

As far as performance, I'd say about a 30% increase in rev characteristics in both accel and decel, enough to notice, but not a huge difference.

On a side note if you install a lightweight flywheel and your tranny mounts are worn, you will get a ton of NVH especially vibration. I recommend replacing the mounts with new ones. I made the mistake of using ECS polyurethanes and it amount of noise it let into the cabin was unbearable for a DD. Went back to stock mounts and have been fine since.

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by ErvGotti

I like it, the DMFW was causing false knock above 6K RPM causing me to go into limp mode, I'm at 470 WHP and 490 WTQ at 20 PSI on dynamic autoworks hybrids.

It chatters just as much as the M Factory lightweight flywheel on idle, but if you raise your idle to 900 rpm on mhd, it gets rid of 90% of the chatter on idle. Slight increase in NVH.

As far as performance, I'd say about a 30% increase in rev characteristics in both accel and decel, enough to notice, but not a huge difference.

On a side note if you install a lightweight flywheel and your tranny mounts are worn, you will get a ton of NVH especially vibration. I recommend replacing the mounts with new ones. I made the mistake of using ECS polyurethanes and it amount of noise it let into the cabin was unbearable for a DD. Went back to stock mounts and have been fine since.

What condition was your dmfw?

Mine somehow is holding on w/o issue. No misfires. Im running RB nex gens at 25psi and ~6 degrees of timing. I dont know what WHP it makes but im assuming it's ~450-480.

My stock clutch doesnt slip either so im wondering now if im not even making that much power. (heavier car too, its an e60)

[feuer]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

What condition was your dmfw?

Mine somehow is holding on w/o issue. No misfires. Im running RB nex gens at 25psi and ~6 degrees of timing. I dont know what WHP it makes but im assuming it's ~450-480.

My stock clutch doesnt slip either so im wondering now if im not even making that much power. (heavier car too, its an e60)

If you tires spin clutch won’t slip. Stickier tires that hook immediately will cause clutch to slip

[ErvGotti]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

What condition was your dmfw?

Mine somehow is holding on w/o issue. No misfires. Im running RB nex gens at 25psi and ~6 degrees of timing. I dont know what WHP it makes but im assuming it's ~450-480.

My stock clutch doesnt slip either so im wondering now if im not even making that much power. (heavier car too, its an e60)

TBH I didn't see what the DMFW condition was, I troubleshot everything and read that some people were getting false knock with the DMFW around 500 WHP. My symptoms fit it perfectly and it was what was causing it.

Basically my logs looked perfect then for some reason around 6K RPM, misfire. No timing corrections at all, I then upgraded my coils and plugs to the PR coils and NGK 2 step colder plugs gapped at .20 replaced both vanos solenoids (needed to be replaced as they were leaking) and carbon cleaned my valves (by hand a pain in the ass) and it didn't fix it.

So i desensitized my knock sensor and did one pull and the log looked fine all the way to 7k. That's what led me to the conclusion of DMFW. From what I read at higher HP the DMFW vibrates at the frequency the knock sensor triggers at, which it's right by cyl 6 and the tranny.

The false knock/misfire is wasn't due to the clutch not holding, tho my stock clutch was slipping a little.

[kern417]

Bumping the thread to add more data. I have a doc race turbo kit with a torque-limited tune to keep the clutch in check. I got on the dyno a few months ago and hit 530wtq. I think i'm upwards of 550-570 now with some upgraded fueling. We'll see how long it lasts but has been taking a beating all spring/summer. All it takes is limiting torque down low and letting it carry power up top.

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by kern417

Bumping the thread to add more data. I have a doc race turbo kit with a torque-limited tune to keep the clutch in check. I got on the dyno a few months ago and hit 530wtq. I think i'm upwards of 550-570 now with some upgraded fueling. We'll see how long it lasts but has been taking a beating all spring/summer. All it takes is limiting torque down low and letting it carry power up top.

When you say youre beating it, can you expand on what youre doing?

e.g - do you mean you can launch it at 3k and it holds; can you flat foot shift each gear etc

What type of tire are you running and have you launched on vht or anything?

Also, did you perform similar maneuvers on a (healthy) stock clutch and it immediately slipped whereas the 550 clutch is obviously stronger?

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

When you say youre beating it, can you expand on what youre doing?

e.g - do you mean you can launch it at 3k and it holds; can you flat foot shift each gear etc

What type of tire are you running and have you launched on vht or anything?

Also, did you perform similar maneuvers on a (healthy) stock clutch and it immediately slipped whereas the 550 clutch is obviously stronger?

My experience was moving from a stock clutch that couldn't handle a flat foot shift to the 550i clutch having no issues. The stock clutch had less than 10k on it and I'm only at ~475lb-ft. The 550i clutch launches better, but is still a little weak for that purpose, but I have an xi.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

When you say youre beating it, can you expand on what youre doing?

e.g - do you mean you can launch it at 3k and it holds; can you flat foot shift each gear etc

What type of tire are you running and have you launched on vht or anything?

Also, did you perform similar maneuvers on a (healthy) stock clutch and it immediately slipped whereas the 550 clutch is obviously stronger?

- No launches, just fast shifts at high rpm (roll racing), i typically hit redline a few times whenever i drive the car (getting on the highway, etc.)
- I'm on Hankook RS3 so good grip but nothing crazy. Car is RWD and spins with traction control off
- My stock clutch never slipped so I don't really have anything to compare it to like that. I upgraded my clutch before since I knew my power goals.

Originally Posted by stewbets

My experience was moving from a stock clutch that couldn't handle a flat foot shift to the 550i clutch having no issues. The stock clutch had less than 10k on it and I'm only at ~475lb-ft. The 550i clutch launches better, but is still a little weak for that purpose, but I have an xi.

Yeah I've heard the same. It's still an organic material so not made to handle a lot of heat from launching or excessive slipping. I don't do drag racing but I'll hit it at a green light just for fun sometimes

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by stewbets

My experience was moving from a stock clutch that couldn't handle a flat foot shift to the 550i clutch having no issues. The stock clutch had less than 10k on it and I'm only at ~475lb-ft. The 550i clutch launches better, but is still a little weak for that purpose, but I have an xi.

Def good feedback. I imagine the AWD really hammers it.

I'd guess Im near your power (21psi td04s) and my stocker @ 90k doesnt feel like it's slipping but Im too scared to really hit it. Ive an e60 rwd so not as much grip though

[theobjectivist]

Originally Posted by kern417

- No launches, just fast shifts at high rpm (roll racing), i typically hit redline a few times whenever i drive the car (getting on the highway, etc.)
- I'm on Hankook RS3 so good grip but nothing crazy. Car is RWD and spins with traction control off
- My stock clutch never slipped so I don't really have anything to compare it to like that. I upgraded my clutch before since I knew my power goals.



Yeah I've heard the same. It's still an organic material so not made to handle a lot of heat from launching or excessive slipping. I don't do drag racing but I'll hit it at a green light just for fun sometimes

If youre shifting flat out at roll speed, I imagine your single is spinning pretty well, so good to hear the 550 is holding. I hope you update if it begins to slip.

Im 90% sure I want the 550 clutch, but cant stop thinking about the spec 2+. If the price was the same and I could get from FCP, Id go that route. So much praise for the BMW clutch though

[kern417]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

If youre shifting flat out at roll speed, I imagine your single is spinning pretty well, so good to hear the 550 is holding. I hope you update if it begins to slip.

Im 90% sure I want the 550 clutch, but cant stop thinking about the spec 2+. If the price was the same and I could get from FCP, Id go that route. So much praise for the BMW clutch though

My primary focus
- Great driveability
- No SMFW Noise
- Lifetime warranty through FCP

I also haven't heard that the Spec can hold a lot more torque. And I don't want to go with a huge twin disk clutch and ruin the daily driveability. I'm sure eventually I'll want more power and need to upgrade, but I think the 550 clutch is underrated. Just need a tune that doesn't make 600+ ftlbs at 2000rpm

I've also done some dragy times. My best 60-130 is 7.2s. I think that's pretty good. I'm hoping for a 6.9 when conditions improve in the fall.

[kern417]

Update - I upgraded my fueling and confirmed on the dyno that I am now at ~570wtq. The clutch is still holding strong.

Now I originally posted this here because not a lot of F3X guys have put some miles on the 550i clutch, but I forgot the N54 is different where you guys have to go to a smfw to prevent false knock detection. So maybe not an apples to apples comparison. But I was pleasantly surprised to see it's performance.

The next step is to get a bigger turbo that can flatten my torque curve and hold 500-550 ft lbs at redline and give me a taller powerband.

[NoGuru]

Off topic but I have a DCT IS and just switched from a DMFW to a M4 FW and my stock DM was at 70K miles and completely shot.

Also FYI, love your YouTube content Kern, subbed for a while now.

[kern417]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Off topic but I have a DCT IS and just switched from a DMFW to a M4 FW and my stock DM was at 70K miles and completely shot.

Also FYI, love your YouTube content Kern, subbed for a while now.

I appreciate the support. That's an interesting swap, haven't heard of it before. Hopefully the car is more rev-happy with less rotation mass.

[cristy7610]

I'm in the same situation, where I have to replace my clutch kit, including DMFW on my N54 and I don't know if this kit from 550i-335is will hold it.I have this car(e92 335i) from almost 7 years and I've replaced my clutch(6 years ago)with 550i version and it still hold it even now..MHD stage 2+ stock turbos.
My goal is to go around 500hp so I want to replace the whole clutch..Anyone here who have this setup on N54?

[NCBlueDevil]

Originally Posted by kern417

Bumping the thread to add more data. I have a doc race turbo kit with a torque-limited tune to keep the clutch in check. I got on the dyno a few months ago and hit 530wtq. I think i'm upwards of 550-570 now with some upgraded fueling. We'll see how long it lasts but has been taking a beating all spring/summer. All it takes is limiting torque down low and letting it carry power up top.

I'm running stock fuel system and stock turbo on my 340 with an e30 tune. just had this clutch installed ~45 miles ago. I've had very mild slip under heavy throttle. I'm going to take it easy for the next couple hundred miles to allow the clutch and resurfaced flywheel to break in. Does this seem normal to you based on your experience?

[kern417]

Originally Posted by NCBlueDevil

I'm running stock fuel system and stock turbo on my 340 with an e30 tune. just had this clutch installed ~45 miles ago. I've had very mild slip under heavy throttle. I'm going to take it easy for the next couple hundred miles to allow the clutch and resurfaced flywheel to break in. Does this seem normal to you based on your experience?

I never experienced any slippage personally. But i did a break in mostly city driving to make sure it got maximum surface contact and I never had any slippage on my stock clutch before upgrading.

[Jaronbwall]

Are you guys replacing the flywheel when upgrading to the 335is or 550i clutch? I'm reading different opinions.
Would I have to remove the flywheel anyways to gain access to a leaking RMS? Thanks

[335i54n]

yeah, if it >10yrs old I would. it was the main reason for doing both my bmw clutches was the dmfw damping failing

[oVeRdOsE.]

n52 no, not enough power to have a slip, as new pressure plate and disk is enough to avoid slip on a old n52 FW.

RMS is a hit or miss, I went far on google search to find the best way to install it for good, without the expensive BMW kit with the glue. and saw few post people reporting that if they knew, they wouldn't touch it since the engine was relatively low mileage and they ended up with leaks.
See, one of my bmw has 270k km, OEM RMS, no leak.

However, on a tuned N54, I would change the FW (or resurface if this still a thing). My low mileage OEM clutch slipped the moment the car was FBO and BEF tuned @19psi.

The issue is the ''while I'm there'', this is not a easy task, and you might go big to avoid going back in the work. ''big'' kit , oem-ish feel and ''lower'' cost one, is the DKM twin disk organic kit, and even that, this fcker is 1300$ usd + tx + ship...

[Jaronbwall]

oVeRdOsE. I can get a 335is or 550i clutch and replacement flywheel for about $1k online. Twin disk is for bigger power levels which I'm not doing. My original s**t clutch lasted about 5k miles on FBO. haha

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

oVeRdOsE. I can get a 335is or 550i clutch and replacement flywheel for about $1k online. Twin disk is for bigger power levels which I'm not doing. My original s**t clutch lasted about 5k miles on FBO. haha

you can have a single disk with ceramic 6 puck and still can go high HP. But the drivability will be sht.

if you go FBO and 335is clutch kit, I would remove the clutch delay valve, at least on each shift it ''should'' reduce the small slip, thus increase the life of the disk.