[Mik325tds]

Thanks rbreding for the pictures. Isn't it really rewarding seeing these squeaky clean valves?

As I wrote before - I don't think the catch can is needed to prevent CBU. I checked mine after 30k miles and the intakes still looked as clean as after the cleaning. The EGR block is all that is needed to prevent CBU.

[rbreding]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

Thanks rbreding for the pictures. Isn't it really rewarding seeing these squeaky clean valves?

As I wrote before - I don't think the catch can is needed to prevent CBU. I checked mine after 30k miles and the intakes still looked as clean as after the cleaning. The EGR block is all that is needed to prevent CBU.

Most definitely knowing that they are clean now.

As an aside, when I replaced my IC with one of the new ATM ones the old one had at least 1/2 - 3/4 cup of oil in it from the CCV. For me I want to keep the excess oil out that would condensate even more so in the new IC. I want that IC do stay just as clean as the intake.

If you haven't pulled your IC to see how much is in there I would suggest that process next maintenance interval. Its not too difficult but it does involve pulling the fan.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by rbreding

Most definitely knowing that they are clean now.

As an aside, when I replaced my IC with one of the new ATM ones the old one had at least 1/2 - 3/4 cup of oil in it from the CCV. For me I want to keep the excess oil out that would condensate even more so in the new IC. I want that IC do stay just as clean as the intake.

If you haven't pulled your IC to see how much is in there I would suggest that process next maintenance interval. Its not too difficult but it does involve pulling the fan.

I've pulled my IC without pulling the fan. I didn't think it was difficuly at all. Just takes a long screwdriver.

[rbreding]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I've pulled my IC without pulling the fan. I didn't think it was difficuly at all. Just takes a long screwdriver.

Not sure if you are still running the factory IC Andrew ? That massive ATM IC was a little more difficult for me maneuver with the fan on thus the fan removal point.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by rbreding

Not sure if you are still running the factory IC Andrew ? That massive ATM IC was a little more difficult for me maneuver with the fan on thus the fan removal point.

Oh yeah, aftermarket is definitely harder to do, and needs removal of the fan. Factory IC is easy.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by rbreding

Most definitely knowing that they are clean now.

As an aside, when I replaced my IC with one of the new ATM ones the old one had at least 1/2 - 3/4 cup of oil in it from the CCV. For me I want to keep the excess oil out that would condensate even more so in the new IC. I want that IC do stay just as clean as the intake.

If you haven't pulled your IC to see how much is in there I would suggest that process next maintenance interval. Its not too difficult but it does involve pulling the fan.

Point well taken. That is a reasonable argument. But when I pulled my IC last year there was hardly any oil in there (a few drops maybe).

[jjbaldasano]

I am reaching out for advice on walnut blasting. I took the intake manifold off to replace glow plugs and glow plug controller and am considering CBU cleaning. Two questions:
a. how/what starter wires are used to jump and move valves between cylinder cleaning?
b. Are the swirl port AND tangential swirl port valve positions synchronized? Meaning if I scope the tangential swirl port to determine the valve position will that also be the valve position for the same cylinder swirl port?
Thanks

[civilator]

Originally Posted by jjbaldasano

I am reaching out for advice on walnut blasting. I took the intake manifold off to replace glow plugs and glow plug controller and am considering CBU cleaning. Two questions:
a. how/what starter wires are used to jump and move valves between cylinder cleaning?
b. Are the swirl port AND tangential swirl port valve positions synchronized? Meaning if I scope the tangential swirl port to determine the valve position will that also be the valve position for the same cylinder swirl port?
Thanks

a. I asked the same question back in the time. see the following video
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=starter

b. yes, both ports on the same cylinder are in sync.

[jjbaldasano]

Thank you for the prompt reply. That is good regarding the ports as I am having an easier time borescoping the tangential ports.
The video was very good but the starter switch on my 335d M57 engine does not appear to match what was shown in the video - at least from what I could see. Where is the connection that is to be disconnected?
Any clarification would be very much appreciated.

[civilator]

Originally Posted by jjbaldasano

Thank you for the prompt reply. That is good regarding the ports as I am having an easier time borescoping the tangential ports.
The video was very good but the starter switch on my 335d M57 engine does not appear to match what was shown in the video - at least from what I could see. Where is the connection that is to be disconnected?
Any clarification would be very much appreciated.

you connect the hand switch to the bolt where the two red cables go in (red side) and to the bolt immediately below (black).
lastly, connect the long plastic cable that goes across the engine to the positive battery terminal on the pass side strut mount.

another way is to turn it by hand and it is not that hard either. I used the starter switch as I did it.

[civilator]

Originally Posted by jjbaldasano

Thank you for the prompt reply. That is good regarding the ports as I am having an easier time borescoping the tangential ports.
The video was very good but the starter switch on my 335d M57 engine does not appear to match what was shown in the video - at least from what I could see. Where is the connection that is to be disconnected?
Any clarification would be very much appreciated.

I attached a frame from the video to show the two bolts. if you connect just to the red bolt, you can activate the solenoid only by connecting the other side of your hand switch to a ground to do a test .

[HudZ]

Do you have to do anything with the swirl port while you're cleaning the tangential port? Will the walnut media and air pressure go in one port and out the other? Or are they separate from each other and you just blast tangential port with its adapter and then blast the swirl port with its adapter afterwards?

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by HudZ

Do you have to do anything with the swirl port while you're cleaning the tangential port? Will the walnut media and air pressure go in one port and out the other? Or are they separate from each other and you just blast tangential port with its adapter and then blast the swirl port with its adapter afterwards?

The ports are not connected so far as I can tell. You have to clean each separately.

Check out the inlet port configuration illustration on page 21 of this BMW service training manual to better visualize what's going on inside the cylinder head.

http://www.kaross-chip.lv/m_download...ommon-Rail.pdf

[HudZ]

Originally Posted by PerfectAce

The ports are not connected so far as I can tell. You have to clean each separately.

Check out the inlet port configuration illustration on page 21 of this BMW service training manual to better visualize what's going on inside the cylinder head.

http://www.kaross-chip.lv/m_download...ommon-Rail.pdf

Oh, so it looks like 2 intake valves. One for the swirl and one for the tangential? So once the valves are closed prior to blasting, each port is essentially it's own private chamber.

[civilator]

Originally Posted by HudZ

Oh, so it looks like 2 intake valves. One for the swirl and one for the tangential? So once the valves are closed prior to blasting, each port is essentially it's own private chamber.

yes, you check whether the valves are closed by looking into the square port with the camera, and that means both sides are closed for that cylinder.

one thing about the top ports (i think they are the tangential) is that you have to be very careful not to clean too close to the top. as they are plastic, they say there is a danger of blasting through the plastic. if you read the pdf document about the cleaning, the document says to mark the wand about 1 inch and not go over that line as you do the blasting. also, the cylinder closest to the firewall is kind of hard to reach, so be even more careful with this. I lost my balance and almost messed it up.

needless to say, this is the most critical thing along with making sure the ports are actually closed.
and one last thing, when everything is finished and you put back the thing together, the engine will barely turn over. it takes some cranking before it kinda gets normal and you hear the first "spark". I did not know this and almost got the car towed to the dealership.

[marlboroman]

Hi, I'm starting my CBU blasting for first time. I've read as much as I could so far. I want to make sure the valve are closed before I blast but don't want to open the valve cover. I have a scope camera and can see the valve in the tangential port. I looked at all six tangential ports. Some valve seem to be at a higher position then other but not sure which is closed. My question is:

How do I know when they are closed?
Are they closed on the very top of an up stroke or the very bottom of a down stroke?

Thanks for any advice.

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by marlboroman

Hi, I'm starting my CBU blasting for first time. I've read as much as I could so far. I want to make sure the valve are closed before I blast but don't want to open the valve cover. I have a scope camera and can see the valve in the tangential port. I looked at all six tangential ports. Some valve seem to be at a higher position then other but not sure which is closed. My question is:

How do I know when they are closed?
Are they closed on the very top of an up stroke or the very bottom of a down stroke?

Thanks for any advice.

Some jobs on these cars are better left to professionals. If you're unsure about determining whether or not a cylinder's valves are closed (and not knowing which way they travel to open tells me you might be), then this job might be a bit outside your wheelhouse. I understand the satisfaction of DIY, but sometimes, discretion is the better part of valor. For the record, this job exceeds my personal experience/confidence level and I will leave it to a pro.

But in the spirit of fostering can-do attitudes and knowing that we all have to start somewhere: yes, some valves belonging to different cylinders seem to be at different positions than others because they in fact are at different stages of opened/closed. You will need to inspect the intake valves of each cylinder individually before cleaning each one and turn the crank (either by starter or by hand) to ensure that the intake valves have risen to their highest point and stopped their motion and are thus closed. Once you've cleaned that cylinder's intake ports, you will then move on to another cylinder, inspect the intake valves and rotate the crank if necessary to close those valves before cleaning.

To help you visualize how the valve travels in relation to the intake port from which you are viewing it, here's a cutaway of a cylinder head (it's for a different motor, but the principle is the same):

[ninja_zx11]

Originally Posted by marlboroman

Hi, I'm starting my CBU blasting for first time. I've read as much as I could so far. I want to make sure the valve are closed before I blast but don't want to open the valve cover. I have a scope camera and can see the valve in the tangential port. I looked at all six tangential ports. Some valve seem to be at a higher position then other but not sure which is closed. My question is:

How do I know when they are closed?
Are they closed on the very top of an up stroke or the very bottom of a down stroke?

Thanks for any advice.

If you really want to make sure that valves are fully closed for that cylinder then remove the glow plug and try to blow air into the glow plug hole.If there is no air leak then it means cylinder is properly sealed.Just move that piston to TDC @ compression stroke.Hope it will help you

[marlboroman]

Thanks for tips and info guys.

[rlmccarty2000]

I got a quote from my dealer for CBU cleaning for $3000 which is insane on a car worth $12000. Does anyone know an independent shop in the South Georgia-North Florida area? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

[canam_banana]

Gents, I really appreciate all the advice, photos, tips, and expertise.

May I ask how this work affects smog certification?

Some context: I have a 2010 335d. I started getting the SES lights a year a go. Dealer in San Jose (CA) wanted $2750 to sublet the CBU work. I have found a couple of local places willing to do the walnut blasting for roughly $1300.

1) Do I need to do the cleaning (soda or walnut) first, before trying to install the water+meth injection system to get rid of the CBU? (some posts in other threads indicate possibly not? (gtp9000?))

2) How does one get the smog certification done with the EGR block and/or the water+meth injection?

Thanks very much for all the helpful knowledge sharing!

[rbreding]

Indy pricing in Kalifornia has show to be around $1000 for a good job. There are shops charging less but work has been suspect or confused for a gasser.

After you have it cleaned why not have a simple stage 1 tune to turn off the EGR and keep all your emissions equipment intact. This will eliminate the major culprit of CBU. Since the EGR is still there and all readiness will show you should pass SMOG without an issue even at a legit SMOG shop.

I would consider meth on a stock vehicle a waste of money really. Just do the above.