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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Next upgrade recommendation
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11-27-2013, 08:13 PM | #2 |
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You can get a diff pumpkin from VAC and then return your core after. If you're in Spain the international shipping would probably be a lot but it's doable...
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11-27-2013, 10:57 PM | #3 |
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I would definitely do suspension and in fact I wouldn't run semi-slick tires on a stock suspension. Sticky tires require a stiff suspension.
M3 bits, control arms and swaybars not worth it in my opinion. Seems like you'll get camber plates eventually so no point in buying the m3 arms. And swaybars should be the last addition to your suspension for fine tuning, not your primary way to stiffen the springs. Don't tune the car, that extra hp won't make as big a difference than suspension on a road course. There are plenty of cars on track with far less hp and you probably have trouble keeping up with them because of soft suspension. Not to mention extra boost = potential limp mode and possible warranty issues. |
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11-28-2013, 03:34 AM | #4 | ||
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Thanks both for your input Last edited by odariel; 04-14-2014 at 01:56 PM.. |
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11-28-2013, 09:28 AM | #5 | |
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http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...als-p2324.aspx |
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11-28-2013, 10:17 AM | #6 | |
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I am not sure that Ohlins R&T is the best choice. Make sure you do plenty of research and talkt to VAC (Steve or Mike). Steve helped me set-up my car and it is a night and day difference to the point that you can almost instantly see your driving flaws on track. |
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11-28-2013, 10:30 AM | #7 |
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An LSD would be the single biggest improvement you could make to your car; it will give you a lot more control over getting power down through corners.
After that, coilovers w/ stiffer springs and lower ride height. The M3 parts offer incremental improvements. You might consider doing just a couple of them. IMO, get the front control arms and tension struts - they'll improve road feedback quite a bit.
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11-28-2013, 10:55 AM | #8 | ||
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Regarding talking to the guys at VAC, will do. I have to drop them an email to inquire about the lsd.. Thanks! Quote:
Another question for you guys; i read somewhere in the forum that when you get an LSD your suspension (specially in the rear) needs to be improved because the standard parts will not hold that well the new forces produced by the extra grip... do you agree with this?? |
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11-28-2013, 11:26 AM | #9 | |
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Once I got the LSD in and the bushings all done, the car actually tracks straight now when the wheels spin. It makes the car so much more predictable versus the stock bushings/open diff where the whole rear end torques itself around and reacts fairly unpredictably. |
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11-28-2013, 11:33 AM | #10 | |
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Thanks!! |
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11-28-2013, 11:36 AM | #11 | |
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http://powerflexusa.com/bmwe90e91e92...-pfr5-426.aspx |
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11-28-2013, 05:16 PM | #12 | |
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Great, thank you! I'll get these when i finally get an lsd... So powerflex black bushings all around... noted. Hey @CJ421 i see that you have camber plates, why do they somehow substitute the m3 arms as Smooth says?? |
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11-28-2013, 08:05 PM | #13 |
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They don't substitute. The reason you get the M3 arms is for the bushings that sit in those arms. The arms are also slightly longer, giving a little bit more negative camber. You probably won't need the negative camber if you get camber plates. But you still want the arms for the bushing stiffness.
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11-29-2013, 08:58 AM | #14 |
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I disagree on bushings, I've seen many powerflex bushings crack prematurely and trust me you don't want to have to pay for labor on this job more than once. M3 ones are sufficient.
And in regards to your precious post about what mods are popular here you'll quickly realize following the lead of many here won't get you far. A lot of members here mod their e9x for the sole purpose of circle jerk car gtg/meets. |
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11-29-2013, 09:14 AM | #15 | |
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By the way, I asked you to elaborate on your affirmation that with camber plates you don't need control arms, but apparently, you don't care to explain. Please enlighten me, because the reasoning that Dallas just argumented in the post on top of yours is why i was getting them... Better /stiffer bushings, more controled front... Last edited by odariel; 04-14-2014 at 01:57 PM.. |
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11-29-2013, 09:46 AM | #16 | |
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Sure you get the benefit of bushing stiffness as Dallas mentioned but can you or anyone quantify how much that'll translate into lap times? I'm all about best bang for buck mod, not the ultimate glory list of OEM mods. With a fixed amount to spend, there's a clear list of parts that you'll benefit the most from. M3 control arms and sways are not on the top of the list if your budget allows for coilovers with stiffer springs and control arms. And I still insist on not getting poly bushings. If you want to hear that the majority has to say, read on Bimmeforums track section. Real race car and DE instructors will tell you how OEM rubber m3 bushings are the best. They're firm, allow some deflection so you won't get unwanted NVH and most importantly, will last 40k if not more. Regarding the tune, check 50 page long sticky on limp mode failures. Sure there's always one or two guys who swear they get by fine but that's not the majority. Last edited by 3002 tii; 11-29-2013 at 09:55 AM.. |
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11-29-2013, 10:24 AM | #17 | ||
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I've been using a Cobb tune for over a year now with not one tune related limp mode on track and only 2-3 limp modes total (with those being one intercooler hose blowing off and the others when I ran it out of fuel and it cut fuel injection due to low fuel pressure). I run the Cobb race maps now on track with E30-35 and no issues in 30 minute sessions. Last edited by DallasBoosted; 11-29-2013 at 11:09 AM.. |
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11-29-2013, 11:48 AM | #18 | |
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11-29-2013, 06:17 PM | #19 |
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^^^
And does a track newbie need the added power of a tune on a 35i? With 300/300 that is already way more than adequate for having fun while learning lines and gaining experience.
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11-29-2013, 06:32 PM | #20 | |
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So much this! |
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12-02-2013, 09:22 PM | #21 | |
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And I also have heard mixed reviews about the powerflex but don't have enough knowledge to form a conclusion. I will be throwing in the monoball fronts soon so that should be fun. To the OP, I would HIGHLY recommend the M3 front control arms (if you just want to do one M3 suspension mod). I noticed a significant different in turn-in accuracy, confidence, and overall agility. It made the steering a little heavier (but in a good way). I would also suggest subframe bushings (if you have over 40k miles), rear guide rods & rear upper links (both to prevent wheel hop under harsh acceleration), and front strut brace (if you eventually run camber plates). I would tend to stay away from sway bars because you want your main focus to be on spring rates and use the sway bars for just that little extra. Let me know if you have narrowed it down a little bit because I could go on and on about this stuff, haha. -Mike |
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12-02-2013, 11:52 PM | #22 |
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Good job on the brakes and tires. Definitely should be the first few things on anyone's list.
Out of those three options, you should ABSOLUTELY do the coilovers next. The general rule is that coilovers take care of 90% of one's suspension needs, distantly followed by bushings, M3 parts, sway bars, and everything else. Honestly, you won't really feel the effect of M3 parts. Camber plates are for minimizing tire shoulder wear, thus extending tire life. Power? You should do this when you observe yourself consistently catching up to E9x M3s and GT3s in corners but lagging behind at corner exit or straights. LSD? Eh.. for that much money, I'd just practice being more precise with the throttle. One item you haven't mentioned is seats. Get reclining seats with a lot of side bolsters for moderate improvement in chassis feedback, or go with bucket seats, 6pt, and roll bar/cage to feel EVERYTHING. |
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