[xthejuicex]

I recently replaced my driver front axle shaft with a re manufactured NAPA unit. I did read online that they have an issue with the boots ripping, but I thought that this was an isolated incident and possibly the issue was fixed. Boy was I wrong. Less than 1000 miles on the axle and this is what happened...





The boot ripped and shot blue grease all over the brakes, inner wheel, control arms, etc. It looks like a Smurf rubbed one out all over my car...



Now my car is on jack stands and I am looking for any advice for a replacement axle shaft. Does DSS make xDrive front axles?

How can a company sell something that is this terrible. The axle didn't even make 100 miles!

This piece of shit is going back today I urge no one else to make the same mistake I made!

[Karman]

wish I had read this literally 2 hours prior. I'm having the same part installed on the same side. hopefully mine won't do this

[xthejuicex]

Originally Posted by Karman

wish I had read this literally 2 hours prior. I'm having the same part installed on the same side. hopefully mine won't do this

I wouldn't do it if I were you. I installed the part myself so at least I'm not out labor charges. Idk what you are paying in labor but you may be paying that twice..

[Needbmwpartzz]

Thanks for the post and helping point this out to the community.
How Long did it take to pull out old one and install new?

[xthejuicex]

Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz

Thanks for the post and helping point this out to the community.
How Long did it take to pull out old one and install new?

Probably took an hour once the car was on jack stands. This is what you have to do to remove it, install is in reverse:
(BTW I used air tools to make it faster/easier)

remove wheel
remove brake pad holder clip, pop off
remove brake pad sensor from caliper and strut mount
remove brake line clip and hose from strut mount
remove caliper and tie up using wire or something else
remove caliper bracket
remove abs sensor, or don't and just make sure cable isn't being pulled in later steps
remove axle nut, 36mm 12 point (in the middle of disc)
remove top endlink connection to strut and move out of the way
remove strut bolt that holds the bracket and keeps the strut on the knuckle (make sure to have a jack or something to keep knuckle from falling down too far)
lower knuckle to have strut slide out of knuckle

Now we need to get the axle out of the knuckle. I used a 1/2" extension and a mini sledge to pound it back and out of the knuckle. Use your imagination here.

Once that is out, you can lay under the car and use a couple screwdrivers to slowly pry the axle shaft away from the diff. Be careful not to break the plastic if you plan on reusing the shaft, if not, give it hell. It will pop out with a decent amount of force. Be ready to catch some diff fluid that will leak out as well.


Re-install is in reverse. Put the diff side of the axle in first, this will take a good amount of force. To get the new shaft into the knuckle, I used some grease on the splines and then jacked up the knuckle a bit and hit the middle of the disc where the lug bolts go in with a mini sledge until i had enough threads through to put the 36mm nut on and tighten it to pull it all the way in.

Hope this helps. It is not that difficult, just takes some creativity.

[ajsalida]

OP that sucks!

DSS does make front axles, I installed one driver's side last fall. Coincidentally I literally just this minute finished up an oil change. Pulled the wheel and carefully checked the axle, boots, seal etc. first time since last fall. No issues, leaks, cracks, looks perfect. They are cheap too, like $120 from BavAuto.

One thing on install I was super worried about was seating the new axle into the diff, and making sure that little ring thing in the groove on the inboard end was properly in there. To do that, after inserting the splined end into the diff, I had to fully compress the axle inwards quite a bit, and then tap the outboard end of the assembly with a soft mallet. Took a few good blows to get it in there. You know it's seated when the inner cup thing that seals the diff is nearly flush up against the housing. I was super worried I did not smack it all the way in but checking over the winter with car on the ground and a flashlight saw no leaks.

If this is not done 100% right the axle will walk out of the diff a bit and either leak or maybe tear up the boot. Or destroy itself under enough power.

Anyway can definitely recommend the DSS, at least for the few 1000 miles I have on one of them.

[matteblue3er]

That's a Cardone reman'd axle, which are known to have shitty boots.

I've had a Cardone reman'd axle in my car for a few thousand miles now but I replaced their shitty boots right from the get go with OEM BMW boots.

[TBN54]

Don't know why people don't just use OEM parts.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by TBN54

Don't know why people don't just use OEM parts.

Try pricing an OEM axle.

[TBN54]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Try pricing an OEM axle.

I work at the dealer, I know. Saves you the headache of OP's issue though.

Buy a honda or toyota if you're trying to go the cheap route on an important component such as an axle.

[xthejuicex]

Approximately $700 for an OEM axle, no thank you... My gripe is more that a company put out an axle that cannot last 1000 miles, that is not okay in my books.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by TBN54

I work at the dealer, I know. Saves you the headache of OP's issue though.

Buy a honda or toyota if you're trying to go the cheap route on an important component such as an axle.

Relax, Tarzan. $700 for a (rebuilt!) OEM axle is a rip off. and oh, BTW people would not need to be replacing axles if OEM's did not fail often. Hard to see what quality difference there is, at least to justify 6-7 times the price. As I said prior, DSS has worked fine so far we'll see.

[trixdout]

Originally Posted by xthejuicex

I wouldn't do it if I were you. I installed the part myself so at least I'm not out labor charges. Idk what you are paying in labor but you may be paying that twice..

You should go to BBB and make it a point to get your labor money back. I would raise hell.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Relax, Tarzan. $700 for a (rebuilt!) OEM axle is a rip off.

Exactly!!

[TBN54]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Relax, Tarzan. $700 for a (rebuilt!) OEM axle is a rip off. and oh, BTW people would not need to be replacing axles if OEM's did not fail often. Hard to see what quality difference there is, at least to justify 6-7 times the price. As I said prior, DSS has worked fine so far we'll see.

Damn, must suck to suck then. Sorry dad.

[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by TBN54

Damn, must suck to suck then. Sorry dad.

[NiNeTyOne]

Raxles FTW

[pits200]

Or do what I did, buy a used low mileage oem axle. Picked up a 2012 axle with 15k miles for 80 bucks from a junkyard in sc, been on the car for about 10k miles now with no problems.

And the dude who said buy oem, what a silly fool. No wonder he wants people to buy oem from the dealer, it keeps them in business. Probably wants us to buy those special bmw branded spark plugs, special bmw oil, special bmw brake pads, such silly advice the young lad gives.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by NiNeTyOne

Raxles FTW

Good advice. Used exclusively raxles in my racecar. Good parts at a good price.