[ayyy]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

The 7psi wouldn't make as much difference as the dampening being too stiff. And if anything you might get better results by raising the spring rate to match the dampening, but ideally you want to lower the dampening. You should be able to just reach the tops of the struts to drop in the adjusters from the left and right side panels that remove, I can just.

I know for an MOT they jack the car up and try and move the wheel, it shouldn't really move in any direction when the bushes are good.

You want to find a suspension setup that doesn't roll too much but is keeping the tyre in contact with the road as much as possible.

Initially I thought your problem was stretched tyres but you don't have them so it's not that.

If the car bobs too much after a bump it's because the damper is too soft, not suppressing the springs natural bounce, it's often a problem people get after the damper is worn and failing. Pushing down on a corner of the car it should return to still after one or two rebounds.

Suspension isn't a simple thing and whilst air suspension is different, it follows the same rules as conventional suspension, so it might be worth researching how it all works or even talking to a specialist, who could also setup the car for a fee.

Thanks again for the response. Well that's what I'm so confused about: my suspension is both too stiff resulting in wheel hop and instability, but also too soft as I bob up and down after the smallest crack in the road. I would assume then the best solution is to change my spring rate instead of the damping? AKA lower the PSI?

Yeah I realize suspension is tricky. I did the install myself minus a few fixes done by a shop, so I'm at least familiar with my own suspension. But I'll go from here and try a few things to see if I can make it any better.

Thanks again for all your help!

[Digitalize]

Originally Posted by ayyy

Thanks again for the response. Well that's what I'm so confused about: my suspension is both too stiff resulting in wheel hop and instability, but also too soft as I bob up and down after the smallest crack in the road. I would assume then the best solution is to change my spring rate instead of the damping? AKA lower the PSI?

Yeah I realize suspension is tricky. I did the install myself minus a few fixes done by a shop, so I'm at least familiar with my own suspension. But I'll go from here and try a few things to see if I can make it any better.

Thanks again for all your help!

What your describing is literally the criteria for mismatched spring rate and dampening. Hopping over quick bumps is caused by the damper not reacting quickly enough - Dampening too stiff. Bobbing up and down too much is because the spring is too soft. I'd just experiment, it's a lot easier on air than with a coil spring! Either way a matched spring and damper rate is important, so all you can do is stiffen it really.

The change in spring rate will make a larger difference than any increase in COG from raising it. Also remember your tracking will be off so that will effect things too, but more driving feel rather than how the suspension reacts to the road.

[Digitalize]

Getting there slowly, still a fair bit more to do but tested the system today and it pressurises the tank, small leak need to check the fittings in the tank are tight, could probably give them a bit more.

[Digitalize]

Got the install done, went fairly smoothly in the end, ran corrugated conduit under the car to run the airline through for extra protection, and overall the car seems fairly simple to run the lines for, with access to the wheel arch etc.

Initial impressions is that the suspension is surprisingly firm, probably firmer at 35/70psi than my coilovers were. Lengthened my droplinks and ironically they're only a hair longer than the standard ones, but my standards were pretty loose. 3P management seems okay so far but the presets don't seem too accurate, with the car sometimes missing the mark and having to air back up to it. This possibly may learn over time or I have the option of reducers to either the exhaust or bag lines from 3/8" to 1/4", which should add some more control due to being slower, but I'm not 100%. I do have 3H sensors to install as well, which could improve things. I haven't messed around with things to see if dampening etc needs to be played with to improve ride quality, it's by no means bad, just would like to see if I can soften it up a bit more.

I sort of wish the rear bags spacer was taller, or had some form of adjustment, as it tucks way too much at 0 for my liking which means a reasonable ride height is really stiff. I was hoping to do arch to lip fitment but I think I might have to reserve that for potentially just shows by changing spacers.



Need to get my rear wheels back on and get the car tracked, then fit my LCI front end, but pretty happy so far. Front arches need trimming etc still but I reckon I can just about arch to lip the front on 19s.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

I sort of wish the rear bags spacer was taller, or had some form of adjustment, as it tucks way too much at 0 for my liking which means a reasonable ride height is really stiff. I was hoping to do arch to lip fitment but I think I might have to reserve that for potentially just shows by changing spacers.

You can fix this. I adjusted the rears so that they were about 2 inches higher, for the same reason. All you have to do is release the lock ring, and twist the strut until it is extended further, then lock the lock ring.

[Digitalize]

That doesn't change the fact that a reasonable ride height is like 75-80psi, just reduces the amount of shock travel, making you more likely to bottom out the strut.

I'm thinking if there was an inch spacer or so that the bags position would be better, but maybe it's something I'll play around with in the future.

Has anyone managed to get the front to sit even lower? I know at one point Bagriders we're doing different front struts as it's the strut that's just physically too long right?

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

That doesn't change the fact that a reasonable ride height is like 75-80psi, just reduces the amount of shock travel, making you more likely to bottom out the strut.

I'm thinking if there was an inch spacer or so that the bags position would be better, but maybe it's something I'll play around with in the future.

Has anyone managed to get the front to sit even lower? I know at one point Bagriders we're doing different front struts as it's the strut that's just physically too long right?

you are increasing the shock length in order to raise the ride height, therefore at 0 psi the car sits higher.

also, yes, I got the front a lot lower.. just look a few pages back. I gt some custom longer end link center bars. I even sent a set to another member and it worked for him.

[Digitalize]

No because the bag is still the same length, you're just moving where the shock sits, so at the same PSI it will sit at the same height, just the damper will be in a different position. The bag will still compress the same amount just it will be limited by the damper. I'd love to see how it would work but I just can't see a way changing the damper length would change pressure that the bag is at at a certain height. What you're suggesting is like saying on a coilovers system that you don't adjust height with the spring adjuster but with the damper adjuster, which on a separate spring and damper like the rear of these are makes no sense, the two heights aren't connected until you reach the dampers limit.

Also I've done that, lengthened them to your spec, which was only slightly longer than OEM droplinks as it happens. I'm sitting on the front bumper mount at the moment but with skinny wheels on it doesn't seem to sit much lower if at all.

[e92_bryan]

Just wondering but I also can't search through 20+ pages of commets
I'm guess that when running bags and airing out or slamming the car you guys got rid of the front and rear fender liners??
If so were there any issues with the front or rear bumper staying firm and rigid?
Also any risk to electronics since they might be exposed to the elements? And I'm just tapkin light california rain no heavy storms
I'm not planning on bagging my car or maybe I am but I'm gonna get a widebody kit and big wheels and I'm guessing the fender liner would need to be removed anyways

[Digitalize]

Mine is still in, on the rear at least there's no reason to remove them, front maybe.

You'll want to build new liners really when you widebody.

[e92_bryan]

Originally Posted by Digitalize

Mine is still in, on the rear at least there's no reason to remove them, front maybe.

You'll want to build new liners really when you widebody.

Really? I'm surprised you still have it, I thought that most bagged cars have to remove them, I can't imagine airing out and going down 2.5-3 inches and not hitting the liner, and thats just me on 235/35/19 on sport suspension
As far as getting my own liner made, that sounds like a PITA!
I kn other widebody kit cars like brz's and 370z just run without fender liner but i'm still not sure, I mean would anything even be at risk of getting damaged without a liner?

[Digitalize]

It doesn't really seem to get in the way.

Increased road noise and the potential for components to get blasted with water, along with rust reasons would be enough for me to make my own. B is for Build made some on his widebody BRZ out of slices of sheet metal.

[Digitalize]

[Anth0nyD]

Been getting a lot of clunking noise from the front going over bumps at low and high speed, my left rear have the same problem. Anyone else experience this?

[MikeeM3]

Anyone looking for some more front camber with airlift struts?? I am parting out my suspension setup and i have some custom made camber plates to get you to a maximum of -10 degree of negative camber !! 200$ shipped takes them PM me if interested

[mashimarho]

Turns out my rear shocks unmounted and hit the nipple on the rear air bag line and I now it won't hold air at all. Started out with a lot of clunking noise.

So, it looks like I'm on the hunt for another rear set up

[mashimarho]

For you guys with Airlift, what do you guys set your dampening to?
I wasn't sure, but I knew I didn't want it too soft.
I have it 6 clicks from the very end (clockwise). I think it's out of 30 clicks?

Just installed brand new Airlift rears. In love 10000x better than before on my old set up.

[Digitalize]

Whatever Air Lift recommend, I think it's 10 on front and back, with 0 being soft.

[_thekonig]

Here's what it ended up looking like prior to deployment; currently getting a new set of wheels built.

[Digitalize]

Got my 3H height sensors installed over the last few days. Going to button it up and test tomorrow, if they're all good I'll try and remember to take some photos to show anyone who's thinking of doing it, I know I had a hard time finding any examples.

[TranMan]

hi bmw family,

I am new to this forum and I am not sure if this has been discussed but I am having issues with my airlift struts in the front. I own a e92 335ix and I have the full airride setup from airlift installed. My problem is when my car is fully aired out, my front end seems to still sit high. My rear wheels tuck nicely but on the front, the top of my front tires still show. Now I have heard two things. Someone mentioned to me that there are “bump stops” inside the struts and I will need to remove them in order to get my car to slam all the way down. Another person mentioned to me that its because my sway bar is hitting my axles and wont allow me to go any lower until I fure out that problem. If anyone can please point me in the right direction, that would be so awesome and much appreciated.

[igzekyativ]

Originally Posted by TranMan

hi bmw family,

I am new to this forum and I am not sure if this has been discussed but I am having issues with my airlift struts in the front. I own a e92 335ix and I have the full airride setup from airlift installed. My problem is when my car is fully aired out, my front end seems to still sit high. My rear wheels tuck nicely but on the front, the top of my front tires still show. Now I have heard two things. Someone mentioned to me that there are “bump stops” inside the struts and I will need to remove them in order to get my car to slam all the way down. Another person mentioned to me that its because my sway bar is hitting my axles and wont allow me to go any lower until I fure out that problem. If anyone can please point me in the right direction, that would be so awesome and much appreciated.

e91 here. from my experience, the reason the front doesn't go as low as the rear is because when you air out the sway bar + end link holds the car up.

Basically, if you draw a line from the connection point of the end link to the strut all the way down the end link, then from the end link connection to the sway bar to the bend in the sway bar, this is all the length you have to work with. if you increase the length of the end link you can go lower.

here is a crude diagram i just made:


I made longer end links (by making a longer center bar) and now my car slams nicely. I sold a pair of the longer center bars for the end links to another member (username PRO.) on the forum and maybe they want to chime in.

Here are some pictures:

Before lengthening end links, this is a low as the front would get:


I removed the end links, and this is how low it would get:


This is the car now with legthened end links and as low as it gets:



here is one of my older posts:
We lengthened the end links to their max (10mm of threads inside each end link head). Length was set to ~285mm and the car sits much lower, but about 20-25mm higher than without end links installed. This is satisfactory for now, but will want it to go lower.

I need a longer center bar for the end links so that I can set the length to 310mm or so. Current center bar is about 162mm long.

It was counter-intuitive to lengthen the end links when lowering the car, but this has worked.
Update:
I fully understand how this works now.

The top end link connection point on the strut is a static point, no matter the height of the car. When the air bags deflate and the car lowers, the sway bar (and bushings) lowers too; this causes the end link connection to the sway bar to pull on the sway bar and it pivots. If your end link is too short, when you air out your end link is actually holding the car up; the weight of the front of the car is suspended on the end link and sway bar. The longer the end link, the lower you can go (to a certain point).

I think an end link length of 310mm-320mm is ideal. This will allow you to go as low as the car wants to without end links attached. I have not checked clearance for this length yet though as the end links that came with the kit can only go to ~285mm (while still leaving enough threads, ~13mm, inside the end link heads so the connection is strong and effective). I have clearance with this setting. --- Keep in mind I have an e91, so your results may vary.