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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Doing my build-Vargas 2+ this week. Woo hoo



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      11-28-2014, 08:39 AM   #45
Fundguy1
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ATM it's just a plain motor looks wise with the intake. I'll h as ve the builders do picks when they install.
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      11-28-2014, 08:59 AM   #46
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You should consider upgrading your axles while your car is apart. Drive Shaft Shop can do this for you.
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      11-28-2014, 09:07 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaster400 View Post
You should consider upgrading your axles while your car is apart. Drive Shaft Shop can do this for you.
Yep I run RB's and am an automatic alpina flash and broke my right rear axle two weeks ago. Both axles are at DSS now being upgraded. Luckily I have a truck as a second car.
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      11-28-2014, 09:21 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deltalima0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaster400 View Post
You should consider upgrading your axles while your car is apart. Drive Shaft Shop can do this for you.
Yep I run RB's and am an automatic alpina flash and broke my right rear axle two weeks ago. Both axles are at DSS now being upgraded. Luckily I have a truck as a second car.
How much that run u?
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      11-28-2014, 09:23 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1
Ok so I've been planning and plotting to take over the world, and build a mean e93. Her name is going to be the Beast.
Did a factory delivery of a 2008 artic white/saddle 335i e93 with manual trans and every option except Idrive, active steering, and winter package.
A few years ago I added:
BMW front and rear bumpers, side skirts
Laser Interceptor Jammers
Hard wired a Garmin and Passport
15% tint all windows.
Juicebox 3.

So now with 200,000 miles the turbos crapped out, I went to trade in for a 2009 M3 e93 with 40,000 miles, Stealer said give me your car and $850 a month for 5 yrs and you can have it. No way. My car body, interior, etc is perfect. Looks like 10,000 miles. So I decided to spend half of what they asked and make an M3, and just about everything else, killer.

I decided to do it in stages.

Stage one was to install:
Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires 235/35-19 front, 275/30-19 rear
Breyton rims 19x8.5 front, 19x9.5 rear
A JL touring carbon fiber rear wing
Black and white carbon fiber roundels
Clear reflectors
VRSF 7" FMIC with aluminum downpipes
Juicebox 4 G5 with 2 step module
New oem water pump, radiator, PCV valve
Smart Top module
Cree 80w angel eyes

Stage two will be installed 11/18:
Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, pads
Valve cover gasket
Head gasket
Walnut blast head
NGK plugs
Oil filter gasket
Compression test cylinders, check coils and injectors

Stage 3 will be first week of December
Vargas stage 2+ turbos with 9 blade Garrett clipped turbos, 6x6 billet compressor, 20T drive gear
Motiv Dual disc clutch and flywheel
VRSF charge pipe
VRSF catless downpipes
Boost addictions rear diff lockdown
BMS clutch valve and clutch stop

Stage 4 will be first week of January
KW V2 with 1" drop
M3 front swing arms
Subframe bushings type TBD
MFactory LSD 3.08
Cobb V3 with Motiv/PTF tune
Motiv fuel rail or Vargas Double Shotgun TBD
Fuel-It stage 3 LPFP

So that s the plan. Did I miss anything?
How much did you invest?
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      11-28-2014, 10:14 AM   #50
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Was hoping the rear diff lock, subframe bushings, lsd would stop the axel problems and wheel hop. I have a spare car but from what many have said it's wheel hop not torque that snaps them. If they or anything else goes, I just replace and upgrade. I probably have close to $30,000 in total upgrades including labor in my car when it's all said and done. The turbo setup, fbo, brakes, suspension, etc is about $20,000 something.
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      11-28-2014, 10:21 AM   #51
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Parts non cosmetic, or oem replacement about $15,000. Labor about $ 5,000.
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      11-28-2014, 06:12 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1
Parts non cosmetic, or oem replacement about $15,000. Labor about $ 5,000.
Damn I needa catch up lol
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      11-29-2014, 08:57 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Esveesh View Post
How much that run u?
999.00
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      12-18-2014, 01:14 PM   #54
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any update? did you get the stage 2+ kit installed yet?
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      12-18-2014, 01:39 PM   #55
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Waiting on the installers to get a time slot. Looking like January 6 or 7. Adding forge diverter valves to the build list in the mean time.
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      12-18-2014, 02:14 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1
Ok so I've been planning and plotting to take over the world, and build a mean e93. Her name is going to be the Beast.
Did a factory delivery of a 2008 artic white/saddle 335i e93 with manual trans and every option except Idrive, active steering, and winter package.
A few years ago I added:
BMW front and rear bumpers, side skirts
Laser Interceptor Jammers
Hard wired a Garmin and Passport
15% tint all windows.
Juicebox 3.

So now with 200,000 miles the turbos crapped out, I went to trade in for a 2009 M3 e93 with 40,000 miles, Stealer said give me your car and $850 a month for 5 yrs and you can have it. No way. My car body, interior, etc is perfect. Looks like 10,000 miles. So I decided to spend half of what they asked and make an M3, and just about everything else, killer.

I decided to do it in stages.

Stage one was to install:
Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires 235/35-19 front, 275/30-19 rear
Breyton rims 19x8.5 front, 19x9.5 rear
A JL touring carbon fiber rear wing
Black and white carbon fiber roundels
Clear reflectors
VRSF 7" FMIC with aluminum downpipes
Juicebox 4 G5 with 2 step module
New oem water pump, radiator, PCV valve
Smart Top module
Cree 80w angel eyes

Stage two will be installed 11/18:
Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors, pads
Valve cover gasket
Head gasket
Walnut blast head
NGK plugs
Oil filter gasket
Compression test cylinders, check coils and injectors

Stage 3 will be first week of December
Vargas stage 2+ turbos with 9 blade Garrett clipped turbos, 6x6 billet compressor, 20T drive gear
Motiv Dual disc clutch and flywheel
VRSF charge pipe
VRSF catless downpipes
Boost addictions rear diff lockdown
BMS clutch valve and clutch stop

Stage 4 will be first week of January
KW V2 with 1" drop
M3 front swing arms
Subframe bushings type TBD
MFactory LSD 3.08
Cobb V3 with Motiv/PTF tune
Motiv fuel rail or Vargas Double Shotgun TBD
Fuel-It stage 3 LPFP

So that s the plan. Did I miss anything?
Turbos lasted you 200k?! Nice! Lol where u FBO tuned ?
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      12-18-2014, 02:58 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 924er View Post
Turbos lasted you 200k?! Nice! Lol where u FBO tuned ?
Turbos died with 120k. Just took my time replacing them. Only had juicebox 3 before. Now I'm all out.
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      12-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #58
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So you mean you can drive without turbos pretty much? Does that mean basically zero boost? I thought the car just wouldn't move and you'd get a ton of codes...
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      12-18-2014, 06:13 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Waiting on the installers to get a time slot. Looking like January 6 or 7. Adding forge diverter valves to the build list in the mean time.
I'd recommend taking a long look at the forge vs other brands on this platform. I had the forge, they worked fine but needed a signficant amount of maintenance. Maybe they got better or the ones I had were mis-machined but I was rebuilding them often due to issues with them sticking/not seating properly. Went Tial with CP-e charge pipe and never looked back. Suffered the loss b/c I had an upgraded chargepipe already with the Forge. Just food for thought, either way keep us updated. I have my 2+ installed and am undergoing basic tuning and shakedown stuff. So far so good.
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      12-18-2014, 09:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Waiting on the installers to get a time slot. Looking like January 6 or 7. Adding forge diverter valves to the build list in the mean time.
Why stick with diverter valves and not upgrade to a BOV??? All high hp cars running 18psi+ run bov's for a reason. Even cars with less than 18psi. I understand it circulates that air back in but imo a BOV is the way to go. I have the active autowerke one and im completely happy with it.
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What's the difference between a stock FBO 335 and an upgraded Single Turbo 335?
Nothing! They both run 11's LMAO
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      12-18-2014, 10:52 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Turbos died with 120k. Just took my time replacing them. Only had juicebox 3 before. Now I'm all out.
damn u took 80k miles later to replace them lol how did it run blown?
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      12-19-2014, 12:26 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deltalima0 View Post
Yep I run RB's and am an automatic alpina flash and broke my right rear axle two weeks ago. Both axles are at DSS now being upgraded. Luckily I have a truck as a second car.
Do you have LSD?
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      12-19-2014, 12:28 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techmaster05 View Post
Why stick with diverter valves and not upgrade to a BOV??? All high hp cars running 18psi+ run bov's for a reason. Even cars with less than 18psi. I understand it circulates that air back in but imo a BOV is the way to go. I have the active autowerke one and im completely happy with it.
What is the reason?
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      12-19-2014, 12:35 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Pop View Post
I'd recommend taking a long look at the forge vs other brands on this platform. I had the forge, they worked fine but needed a signficant amount of maintenance. Maybe they got better or the ones I had were mis-machined but I was rebuilding them often due to issues with them sticking/not seating properly. Went Tial with CP-e charge pipe and never looked back. Suffered the loss b/c I had an upgraded chargepipe already with the Forge. Just food for thought, either way keep us updated. I have my 2+ installed and am undergoing basic tuning and shakedown stuff. So far so good.
+1 for Forge DVs requiring a lot of maintenance.
VTT Stage 2+ turbos most likely as well. You haven't got any reasonable WHP figures either?
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      12-19-2014, 01:51 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jippii ensio View Post
+1 for Forge DVs requiring a lot of maintenance.
VTT Stage 2+ turbos most likely as well. You haven't got any reasonable WHP figures either?
It's too early to make posts about that as tuning is very much in process. I got the 19t unclipped. This is cobb only, running around 22 psi. These are making more power than my stockers pretty much everywhere but they start really diverging at 3500 on up. Spool is surprisingly fast. Based on virtual dyno, the current unfinished map the car is making 60hp more than stockers at 4k, 70hp more than stock at 5k, 80hp more at 6k, 100hp more at 7k and generally is an absolute animal. The car is very fast. Tuning isn't done, so these numbers will likely change. I'll make my own thread for all of that when everything is finished and maybe I'll even stick it on a dynojet. Initial results are very positive and promising.

That's all I'm going to post for now, not trying to thread jack.
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      12-19-2014, 08:04 AM   #66
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Forge is local to me, 20 min drive away. Might still go BOV. My charge pipe isn't set up for it. Should I swap charge pipes or can I have one fitted on mine. I wanted diverter valves because I don't want any noise from it. Figured with forge so close I could just pop over there if I had a problem and let them take care of it.
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