[ModificaClassica]

I am installing a rear camera and I need a constant +12V and ground. can anybody recommend which to tap? I am going to buy a Fuse Tap at advance auto parts. Camera only uses .05A, and I was told to use a 5A fuse.

If anybody has a link to a DIY thread where this was already done I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Elie

[pkirk]

Originally Posted by eliemman

I am installing a rear camera and I need a constant +12V and ground. can anybody recommend which to tap? I am going to buy a Fuse Tap at advance auto parts. Camera only uses .05A, and I was told to use a 5A fuse.

If anybody has a link to a DIY thread where this was already done I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Elie

Just connected mine to the fuse box last week. In my case i chose to connect to an empty location. Used a spade on the end of an inline fuse assembly and routed to the trunk. Use a meter to confirm voltage - should have multiple locations to choose from.

[fdriller9]

I would tap the wire going to the reverse lights so it's triggered to go on only when you're in reverse.

Otherwise, it's going to stay on whenever your car is on.

[pkirk]

Originally Posted by *********

I would tap the wire going to the reverse lights so it's triggered to go on only when you're in reverse.

Otherwise, it's going to stay on whenever your car is on.

In my experience, and apparently others', the reverse light power is not consistent enough for powering the camera. Refer to this post for alternate wiring: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425343

I pulled the relay trigger from my reverse light and camera power from fuse box. I didn't want constant power to be in the camera as you mention.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by pkirk

In my experience, and apparently others', the reverse light power is not consistent enough for powering the camera. Refer to this post for alternate wiring: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425343

I pulled the relay trigger from my reverse light and camera power from fuse box. I didn't want constant power to be in the camera as you mention.

Gotcha. Have you tried coding? And raising voltage? Or maybe a boost converter?

EDIT: I'm not sure how much current your camera draws but something like this will step up the 11.7v to up to 14v....and anywhere in between. You set the output voltage with the pot on the side of the unit. Input voltage can be anywhere from 2.6V - 14V and the output voltage will remain the same....no dropout. I think this is better than running a wire from your fuse panel to your trunk. I know you need to run an RCA anyway for the video feed but it would cut down on wiring.

If you've never soldered before or don't want to, they sell a breakout board with screw terminals.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVoltMicro.htm

[pkirk]

Originally Posted by *********

Gotcha. Have you tried coding? And raising voltage? Or maybe a boost converter?

EDIT: I'm not sure how much current your camera draws but something like this will step up the 11.7v to up to 14v....and anywhere in between. You set the output voltage with the pot on the side of the unit. Input voltage can be anywhere from 2.6V - 14V and the output voltage will remain the same....no dropout. I think this is better than running a wire from your fuse panel to your trunk. I know you need to run an RCA anyway for the video feed but it would cut down on wiring.

If you've never soldered before or don't want to, they sell a breakout board with screw terminals.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/AnyVoltMicro.htm

Wow, this is great, thanks! Unfortunately too late for my benefit.

I got a wireless transmitter/receiver for my camera, so no RCA cable routing required. The only wire I ran through the vehicle ended up being the single power wire, but I did that in less than 1 hour (including pulling the trunk liner and rewiring the system with relay circuit).

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by pkirk

Wow, this is great, thanks! Unfortunately too late for my benefit.

I got a wireless transmitter/receiver for my camera, so no RCA cable routing required. The only wire I ran through the vehicle ended up being the single power wire, but I did that in less than 1 hour (including pulling the trunk liner and rewiring the system with relay circuit).

To add, I would put a zener diode on the power wire going into the converter rated for 14v so there is no chance of a spike in voltage blowing it out.