[NightStalker]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

The tensioner literally takes 2 minutes to replace. It's not hard at all. I did tensioner/belt/idler pulleys over the weekend. With the electric fan out of the way (although unnecessary for this job) it certainly made things that much easier.

With 54k miles on the original pieces, they showed very little (if any) wear. I replaced the motor mounts too with new OEM pieces (335is passenger mount, etc) and the original units didn't feel as stiff as the new pieces but certainly weren't "worn out" either.

Either way, I think this whole "belt through the crank seal" issue is a result of a combination of factors. I doubt just attacking one part, or group of parts, will protect you from this potentially ever happening.

Interesting. Btw is there a DIY for it? If not once fan is removed everything's straight forward?

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

The tensioner literally takes 2 minutes to replace. It's not hard at all. I did tensioner/belt/idler pulleys over the weekend. With the electric fan out of the way (although unnecessary for this job) it certainly made things that much easier.

With 54k miles on the original pieces, they showed very little (if any) wear. I replaced the motor mounts too with new OEM pieces (335is passenger mount, etc) and the original units didn't feel as stiff as the new pieces but certainly weren't "worn out" either.

Either way, I think this whole "belt through the crank seal" issue is a result of a combination of factors. I doubt just attacking one part, or group of parts, will protect you from this potentially ever happening.

Yeah not sure if the intake tube routing is different on the 135 but I bet it is. I haven't worked on the belt yet on my D/D. I'll be doing the ofhg soon so I'll check it then.

[tc535i]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

The tensioner literally takes 2 minutes to replace. It's not hard at all. I did tensioner/belt/idler pulleys over the weekend. With the electric fan out of the way (although unnecessary for this job) it certainly made things that much easier.

With 54k miles on the original pieces, they showed very little (if any) wear. I replaced the motor mounts too with new OEM pieces (335is passenger mount, etc) and the original units didn't feel as stiff as the new pieces but certainly weren't "worn out" either.

Either way, I think this whole "belt through the crank seal" issue is a result of a combination of factors. I doubt just attacking one part, or group of parts, will protect you from this potentially ever happening.

Sounds like I need to dig in there, I looked but couldn't see much.

Does the fan just unplug and slide up and out like on my e46 330i? would make the pulleys/belts a whole lot easier to access and see. I checked yesterday and my belt looks good, but couldn't really get my hand in there to test tension.

Do the tensioners fail gradually? I assume I'd notice less resistance with a bad tensioner, or slip/squeal or something?

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by tc535i

Sounds like I need to dig in there, I looked but couldn't see much.

Does the fan just unplug and slide up and out like on my e46 330i? would make the pulleys/belts a whole lot easier to access and see. I checked yesterday and my belt looks good, but couldn't really get my hand in there to test tension.

Do the tensioners fail gradually? I assume I'd notice less resistance with a bad tensioner, or slip/squeal or something?

Unplug then a bolt top right bottom left.

[tc535i]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

Unplug then a bolt top right bottom left.

[hardr85]

I have the seal removal tool and some of the BMW sealant left over, will sell both for $75.

I assume the sealant is still good, it has been a few months, I haven't checked.