[svg95gt]

Originally Posted by cesanche

So my car consistently warms up after about 4 miles or 10 mins running, then fans kicks on high, then yellow to red - every time. Tray was taken out, no leaks, splashes evident - under car or from the top. So the only thing I have are the codes, which state those two conditions, water pump on/off due to fluid difference. Wonder if it's a sensor now or again if the water pump is to blame.

Did you guys ever figure out what this issue was? Mine is doing the same thing and I haven't had time to get to a shop yet. I did add some DI water to get me home, but overheated again on my way in to work this am. I'd rather not replace the pump/therm if it's a fluid thing...

[Built My Way]

Originally Posted by svg95gt

Did you guys ever figure out what this issue was? Mine is doing the same thing and I haven't had time to get to a shop yet. I did add some DI water to get me home, but overheated again on my way in to work this am. I'd rather not replace the pump/therm if it's a fluid thing...

If there aren't any leaks and you still get a code, your pump's impeller might be seized or the thermostat is malfunctioning. Fluid levels wouldn't be affected by these issues. You might want to try the Venting procedure from the DIY to make sure that your pump is functioning. With the engine off you will be able to hear the pump and the circulation of fluid. At least it's a start. How many miles/kilometers on the vehicle? For peace of mind, you might just want to get both the pump and thermostat replaced anyway.

[svg95gt]

Took it to an indy and they replaced the pump...

[epouss2]

PLEASE HELP!! I replaced my pump and t stat and now all is good, except I have one left over screw (not bolt). It is a hex head (11mm head) (6mm thread) screw that looks about a half inch long on the threads. I did not loosen my sway bar. Instead, I removed my radiator fan. But I put everything back together and now I have this one screw left. I figured it probably goes on the skid plate but I'm not sure. It does not have a matching screw anywhere else like this one. My car runs fine but I still have this screw.

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by epouss2

PLEASE HELP!! I replaced my pump and t stat and now all is good, except I have one left over screw (not bolt). It is a 11 mm hex head screw that looks about a half inch long on the threads. I did not loosen my sway bar. Instead, I removed my radiator fan. But I put everything back together and now I have this one screw left. I figured it probably goes on the skid plate but I'm not sure. It does not have a matching screw anywhere else like this one. My car runs fine but I still have this screw.

picture?

[epouss2]

it is M6 x 15mm or maybe M6 x 16mm self tapping screw
BTW my car is an automatic. I also had a D6 x 20 (T25) screw but I used it to mount the ATF cooler to the radiator fan. Maybe that was a mistake and that D6 x 20 screw goes somewhere else. The D6 x 20 screw is identical to the screw used to mount the radiator fan.

Originally Posted by woodpecka

picture?

[woodpecka]

Looks like the bolt for the small fluids radiator. (Steering fluids?)

[epouss2]

Originally Posted by woodpecka

Looks like the bolt for the small fluids radiator. (Steering fluids?)

What is the small fluids radiator. Is that the small radiator thing that mounts to the fan?

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by epouss2

What is the small fluids radiator. Is that the small radiator thing that mounts to the fan?

yes

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by epouss2

What is the small fluids radiator. Is that the small radiator thing that mounts to the fan?

yes

thinking about it, I now feel it was more a Torx type than hex.

[epouss2]

It was. It was a torx T25 screw.

[atinybug]

So I attempted this today on a manual transmission. After looking around for about 10 minutes for someplace to drain the coolant from and not being able to find it, I went searching on the internet. Apparently I have to take off my front bumper and intercooler to be able to do it. So I asked a friend of mine what he did with his last year (also 6mt) and he told me to just yank a hose straight off the pump and let the coolant splash out (messy). Is this a good idea? If it isn't too bad of an idea, I'll probably just do this tomorrow because I'm lazy.

[Built My Way]

Originally Posted by atinybug

So I attempted this today on a manual transmission. After looking around for about 10 minutes for someplace to drain the coolant from and not being able to find it, I went searching on the internet. Apparently I have to take off my front bumper and intercooler to be able to do it. So I asked a friend of mine what he did with his last year (also 6mt) and he told me to just yank a hose straight off the pump and let the coolant splash out (messy). Is this a good idea? If it isn't too bad of an idea, I'll probably just do this tomorrow because I'm lazy.

I wouldn't recommend it but it is doable. Just remember that coolant is not exactly environmentally friendly. It is also poisonous. Be sure to keep it contained when pulling the hose. Don't let it get on your skin or in your eyes. Also, more of the old coolant will remain in the system if you go this route. I would take the time to remove the intercooler.

[Oo vvR3cKz oO 619]

Nice

[atinybug]

Ok I just sorta finished doing this spread out over 3 days (a couple hours a day, due to work and available daylight). As I'm bleeding the system, the large U shaped hose between the pump and thermostat keeps leaking where it connects to the pump. I've already broken 1 hose clamp tightening it, and I'm afraid to tighten this 2nd hose clamp anymore than it already is. What should I do?

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by atinybug

Ok I just sorta finished doing this spread out over 3 days (a couple hours a day, due to work and available daylight). As I'm bleeding the system, the large U shaped hose between the pump and thermostat keeps leaking where it connects to the pump. I've already broken 1 hose clamp tightening it, and I'm afraid to tighten this 2nd hose clamp anymore than it already is. What should I do?

You shouldn't over tighten the clamps. If the hoses are bulging when you tighten the loosen a little. You want it snug not grip me to death tight. Replace your broken clamp with one of similar size from your local Home Depot or Auto store.

[atinybug]

It wasn't bulging the first time I tightened the original clamp. I started the pump up, it started leaking, so I tightened it some more. Repeated 2 more times until it snapped, then went and got a new clamp, and stuck that one on, and it's still leaking. I'm thinking I may need to make a trip to the dealer tomorrow to get a new hose?

[PichaDis11]

Seems like the hose got clinched or something. Try examining it just to be sure. A bad hose will break under pressure from the system.

[Cali]

I have a 2006 325i E90 (99,500 miles on it) and had the amber temp light come on followed by the red temp light then limp mode........My check lights say I have low coolant, should I top off and drive around to see if I get the same problem again?
Going by this thread and other searches it looks like I need a new water pump/thermostat in which case how much of this tutorial applies to the 2006 325i E90.
Thank you for any help in advance.

Cali

[Built My Way]

Originally Posted by Cali

I have a 2006 325i E90 (99,500 miles on it) and had the amber temp light come on followed by the red temp light then limp mode........My check lights say I have low coolant, should I top off and drive around to see if I get the same problem again?
Going by this thread and other searches it looks like I need a new water pump/thermostat in which case how much of this tutorial applies to the 2006 325i E90.
Thank you for any help in advance.

Cali

Sounds like the pump is shot. I'd top up the system with water and perform the venting procedure from this DIY. This lets you listen for pump activation and hear the water rushing through the system. Then start the car (let it warm up) and watch for leaks from under the vehicle.
I think there's a 328i DIY out there somewhere. Google it. Good luck.

[Cali]

Originally Posted by Built My Way

Sounds like the pump is shot. I'd top up the system with water and perform the venting procedure from this DIY. This lets you listen for pump activation and hear the water rushing through the system. Then start the car (let it warm up) and watch for leaks from under the vehicle.
I think there's a 328i DIY out there somewhere. Google it. Good luck.

I tried to run the vent cycle but nothing is happening.......assume that means the water pump is dead?

Cali

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by atinybug

So I attempted this today on a manual transmission. After looking around for about 10 minutes for someplace to drain the coolant from and not being able to find it, I went searching on the internet. Apparently I have to take off my front bumper and intercooler to be able to do it. So I asked a friend of mine what he did with his last year (also 6mt) and he told me to just yank a hose straight off the pump and let the coolant splash out (messy). Is this a good idea? If it isn't too bad of an idea, I'll probably just do this tomorrow because I'm lazy.

I know this is a month old, but dude, you have to remove the big splash shield (front belly pan) and then the small plastic shield covering the radiator. The drain in on the radiator either on the driver's side, or both sides depending on what radiator was used to build the car.

There is a DIY for the manual transmission cars done by Eninty a long time ago.