[parapaul]

Originally Posted by samdaman

Anyone know if it's ok to resurface BMW rotors? I put new EBC ceramic RED brake pads onto my existing rotors without resurfacing them (I also got the spray on disc brake quieter) but they squeal like crazy when I'm braking at slow speed after they've warmed up a little. The car has 55k miles on them and I believe this is the first brake change. The inner and outer edges are pretty high and then sink in a bit where the main pads hit the rotors so I'm thinking that's what's causing the squeal. The EBC Red brakes have an anti-squeal shim on them so I'm assuming the squeal is more coming from the the uneven rotor surface or edges. So my question is...is it too late to try resurfacing the rotors since I've put about 100 miles on the brake pads? (and does BMW even sanction resurfacing rotors or are they simply 1-time use?) OR should I just paste on some anti-brake squeal on the backs of the pads? HELP! The squeal is killing me!!!

Relax

EBC pads tend to squeal pretty badly for the first couple of hundred miles due to their bed-in coating. I wouldn't worry about it until at least then. They definitely DO NOT need any anti-squeal paste of any sort, they have rubber shims on the back from the factory.

[Amini77]

Originally Posted by samdaman

Anyone know if it's ok to resurface BMW rotors? I put new EBC ceramic RED brake pads onto my existing rotors without resurfacing them (I also got the spray on disc brake quieter) but they squeal like crazy when I'm braking at slow speed after they've warmed up a little. The car has 55k miles on them and I believe this is the first brake change. The inner and outer edges are pretty high and then sink in a bit where the main pads hit the rotors so I'm thinking that's what's causing the squeal. The EBC Red brakes have an anti-squeal shim on them so I'm assuming the squeal is more coming from the the uneven rotor surface or edges. So my question is...is it too late to try resurfacing the rotors since I've put about 100 miles on the brake pads? (and does BMW even sanction resurfacing rotors or are they simply 1-time use?) OR should I just paste on some anti-brake squeal on the backs of the pads? HELP! The squeal is killing me!!!

I've heard bad stories from resurfacing BMW rotors. Apparently they aren't like "honda or toyota rotors to be so easily resurfaced" according to my mechanic's worker and they're easily warped when resurfaced.

[danb35]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

PB Blaster is okay. If you want a real good penetrating oil, get Kroil from Kano Labs. The stuff is awesome and doesn't smell like skunk piss. You can only get it from Kano Labs on line.

Actually, Kroil is widely available--I've ordered mine from a gunsmith supply house called Brownell's for some years, but I'm sure there are other sources. It does work well.

[wdeerfield]

Originally Posted by Amini77

I've heard bad stories from resurfacing BMW rotors. Apparently they aren't like "honda or toyota rotors to be so easily resurfaced" according to my mechanic's worker and they're easily warped when resurfaced.

bmw rotors are already so thin to save weight that after wear, there usually isnt enough to save them by resurfacing. Its best to just do new as you can get a whole brake package for ~$500 from Turner using OEM suppliers for rotors and OEM pads/sensors

[mweisdorfer]

There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the guide. Then there are two bolts that hold the guide in place. Then there is a small screw that holds the rotor on.

Typically speaking, you can get one change of pads on the Rotors. You should not have to change out the rotors at 55k. I would look into Akebono ceramic pads. On the 2nd change of pads, you will most likely have to change out the rotors.

However, I am wondering about the lip you describe on the current rotor. That is usually a sign the rotor is done and needs to be changed out.

I would not re-surface a BMW rotor. (Zimmerman).

[Efthreeoh]

I've done at least 15 brake jobs on BMWs. Early on I tried two or three of them (on different cars) without changing the rotors and found that the original rotors, when they have gone through a full pad set, will not make it all the way through the second set of pads without warping. Machining the old rotor to get it the surface properly flat, which should be done to allow the pads to properly bed with the rotors, makes the rotors too thin to last through the second set of pads. If you are DIYing your brakes, you are saving more in labor than the difference in paying for the old rotors to get resurfaced versus the cost of new rotors, so it just makes sense to start out with fresh pads and rotors. And like I said previously, just get a set of new rotor screws while your at it.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I've done at least 15 brake jobs on BMWs. Early on I tried two or three of them (on different cars) without changing the rotors and found that the original rotors, when they have gone through a full pad set, will not make it all the way through the second set of pads without warping. Machining the old rotor to get it the surface properly flat, which should be done to allow the pads to properly bed with the rotors, makes the rotors too thin to last through the second set of pads. If you are DIYing your brakes, you are saving more in labor than the difference in paying for the old rotors to get resurfaced versus the cost of new rotors, so it just makes sense to start out with fresh pads and rotors. And like I said previously, just get a set of new rotor screws while your at it.

Good advice there EFth. And considering the price of a good set of rotors now, its a no brainer, see my update to the pad change thread on the current deal from tire rack.

For other 335 owners instead if using a hammer when trying to get the rotors off check #177
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=177

[Kruz]

sub

[Hops128i]

has anyone used a rotor puller? Do they work?

[mweisdorfer]

You basically want to replace the rotors, pads and retaining clips and of course the sensors. You can do both axels for about $500.00 in parts.

I like Brembo UV rotors and Akebono pads.

Make sure you clean up the caliper guide pins good with an emery cloth or 1000 grit sand paper and grease the crap out of them with high temp brake grease.

I would put some synthetic grease on the caliper guide bolts before putting the caliper guide back on.

Also, the last thing you do is install the sensor. This just clips right in from the top of the caliper once it is secure to the caliper guide.

Last, make sure you burnish the pads. You do this by running the car up to 60mph and break steadily w/ out setting off the ABS down to 15 mph, Do this 8x in a row on your test run.

The only thing with Akebono pads is that it takes about 1000 miles for them to fully break in. The nice thing is that there is virtually no break dust, and they break just as good as the stock pads. At least in my opinion they do.

One more thing, if you are doing a break job, you might consider painting your calipers and caliper guides. There is plenty of DIY's on this. You should take the caliper off the car. If you do that, you will need a break Vacuum to properly restore pressure in the lines. So, you will need about 3 cans of Dot 4. Your also going to need a flare style wrench or you risk breaking the the break line where it is attached to the caliper.

[Meeni]

If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mass to "ring" it. A single blow flat on the center of the rotor is usually enough, if not, use more force.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Hops128i

has anyone used a rotor puller? Do they work?

I just use a 14 inch long 1 3/4 wood dowel and a 3 lb. sledge hammer. Tap the rotor from the back side where the caliper usually sits and rotate it and smack it again.

[Initial G]

Anyone know what the factory runout spec is for the 335i rotors? I don't have a Bentley manual and I've been searching and can't seem to find it. Thank you!

[Frasdl]

Originally Posted by ska///235i

Other notes:
• Putting back on the bracket bolts; be very careful when you torque these bolts. The front bolts are twice as big as the rears. I made the mistake of over torque one of the rear bolts and it broke. You want to properly torque them to the steering knuckle but don’t over torque. A short torque wrench is ideal for the rear (no more than a foot long). Here are the specs: Front bolt = 110nm/81ft lbs Rear bolt = 65nm/48ft lbs

I have to second this point. I broke a rear bolt today making sure I hit 48ft lbs. They seem to spin on lower torque, rather than my wrench clicking. This must be very close to the limit for these alloy bolts or whatever they are.

It was no fun only getting one side done as I had to drive to the dealer to replace the bolt. However I was relieved the bolt came out and that I didn't strip the back of the bracket they screw into. This happens because the mounting plate attached to the hub or suspention is not threaded. Only the caliper bracket is threaded allowing you to spin the middle of the bolt if you keep torquing. I had no issues on the left side, only the right.

[6ixSpd]

Hate to bump an old thread, but your post was incredibly useful along with the tips. Just did the rotors and pads on my E90 328i following this. Thanks for the contribution!

Originally Posted by ska///235i

Here’s my experience on changing Pads & Rotors. Hope this could help others.

• Put car on 4 jack stands (see separate DIY on how to properly jack your car up on to stands). Make sure to loosen your wheel lugs before the car is up.
• Open the brake reservoir cap (less pressure when sitting the pistons back).
• (Optional) Suck out some brake fluid from the brake reservoir with a turkey blaster….will flush brake fluid after the brake job since the car is already on jack stands with wheels off (Separate DIY).
• Take off wheel and first thing you want to do is spray some PB Blaster (lubricant) to the wheel hub where the rotor sits on and also spray some to the two bolts that holds the caliper bracket. This will make things easier later.
• Loosen the 6mm hex from the rotor, but keep the bolt on so that the rotor stays in place. I slide a hex key into the edge of the rotor where heat vents and against the caliper so that the rotor will not move when you’re trying to loosen the 6mm hex bolt (This will prevent the rotor from turning when you’re trying to turn the hex bolt).
• Take off the clip from the caliper.
• Take off sliding pin plastic covers and use 7mm hex socket to remove the caliper pins. An extension bar might be needed in some tight areas behind the rotor.
• Slide the caliper off, I had to use a screwdriver to pry the pads against both sides of the rotor (Warning! If you’re not replacing your rotors, be careful not to damage your rotors). Do not pry on the piston boot.
• Ones the caliper is off, I highly recommend hanging the caliper with ropes/hooks etc. You don’t want to put stress on the brake lines and this will also allow you to have more space to work on the brackets. You want to hang it as high as you can and away from the bracket without stressing the brake lines.
• The caliper brackets = the fun part: Do not use the Metric size; instead use the SAE size for a better snug on these bolts. I believe 18mm for the front and 16mm for the rear so find the SAE equivalent for those sizes. You will only have enough room to remove these bolts from the caliper side. This is why you want to hang the caliper to give yourself plenty of space. Be careful not to strip the bolts (use more PB Blaster on the bolts if needed).
• Remove the 6mm hex from the rotor, then remove the rotor from the hub…hammer the surface of the rotor and be careful not to hit the hub (use more PB Blaster if needed).
• Remove the old pads from the caliper and sit the piston back (I used a C clamp). Remember that the reservoir cap was left open; you shouldn’t have to use too much force when sitting the piston back.
• Now just clean the necessary parts/areas (use brake cleaners and sandpapers).
• Same process for other 3 wheels/brakes. Also replace the 2 brake sensors and install everything back (see below for more details)
• Remember to close the brake reservoir cap when you’re done.


Other notes:
• Putting back on the bracket bolts; be very careful when you torque these bolts. The front bolts are twice as big as the rears. I made the mistake of over torque one of the rear bolts and it broke. You want to properly torque them to the steering knuckle but don’t over torque. A short torque wrench is ideal for the rear (no more than a foot long). Here are the specs: Front bolt = 110nm/81ft lbs Rear bolt = 65nm/48ft lbs
• Anti-seize the bracket area where the pads sit on (the area where the edge of the pads sit/move on).
• Anti-seize the hub area.
• Use brake grease (not anti-seize) on the sliding pins.
• Use brake quiet behind the pads.
• Don’t forget to put the plastic dust covers back on for the sliding pins.
• There will be a lot of brake dust that you’ll be breathing in, use a mask unless you want your lungs to look like your wheels lol.
• If this is your first attempt, give yourself plenty of time to do this job. Don’t expect to finish in 3-4 hours; it could take 6+ hours…Good Luck!

[Black widow]

Originally Posted by parapaul

Relax

EBC pads tend to squeal pretty badly for the first couple of hundred miles due to their bed-in coating. I wouldn't worry about it until at least then. They definitely DO NOT need any anti-squeal paste of any sort, they have rubber shims on the back from the factory.

Is there anything that watch out for when i replace my brakes with EBC yellow and new OEM rotors? Like is it going to squeaky too?