[SlickE90]

I'll be changing my spark plugs with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So my questions are:
1. They come pre-gapped to 0.044, is that the correct gap?
2. Do I need anti-seize on the plugs?
3. I would like to get all the tools necessary before I start so do I need a thin walled spark plug socket?

Thanks guys

[hassmaschine]

the pre-gap should be fine.

I used anti-seize. you don't need much, just a light coating. I always use it on aluminum heads.

I didn't need any special spark plug socket, the regular one I've had for decades worked just fine.

[paulm3251]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

the pre-gap should be fine.

I used anti-seize. you don't need much, just a light coating. I always use it on aluminum heads.

I didn't need any special spark plug socket, the regular one I've had for decades worked just fine.

Yeah I believe it was a 5/8 spark plug socket...I went with the NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (ILZFR6D11) and they were perfect no gapping necessary but I'm not sure about the one's your considering.

[SlickE90]

Thanks for the response guys!

[bimmerquick43321]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I didn't need any special spark plug socket, the regular one I've had for decades worked just fine.

Never understood that one, I've kept seeing discussions about a special tool to change spark plugs on the bmw, but as you I've been using the same one as I did for all of my cars...

[paulm3251]

Originally Posted by mecbain

Never understood that one, I've kept seeing discussions about a special tool to change spark plugs on the bmw, but as you I've been using the same one as I did for all of my cars...

The 335 needs a special tool not 328.

[bimmerquick43321]

Originally Posted by paulm3251

The 335 needs a special tool not 328.

that would explain it.

[talisman311]

Originally Posted by SlickE90

I'll be changing my spark plugs with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So my questions are:
1. They come pre-gapped to 0.044, is that the correct gap?
2. Do I need anti-seize on the plugs?
3. I would like to get all the tools necessary before I start so do I need a thin walled spark plug socket?

Thanks guys

Yes, pregaped.
No, anti-seize (NGK states this is unneeded as they're already coated)
I did use some di-electric grease, though.
I used a regular spark-plug socket from my craftsman tool set.

[TheSt|G]

For starters, wrong spark plugs.

1. Everything that has a cardboard sleeve on it is pre-gapped, which is pretty much every modern plug.

2. DO NOT use any anti-seize/grease/whatever on the plugs in the slightest. You will get an inaccurate and low torque reading which will give you a high chance of stripping the aluminum threads on your head.

3. Really depends on your current tool width. Get an accurate torque wrench as the spec is 18 ft/lbs.

[SlickE90]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

For starters, wrong spark plugs.

1. Everything that has a cardboard sleeve on it is pre-gapped, which is pretty much every modern plug.

2. DO NOT use any anti-seize/grease/whatever on the plugs in the slightest. You will get an inaccurate and low torque reading which will give you a high chance of stripping the aluminum threads on your head.

3. Really depends on your current tool width. Get an accurate torque wrench as the spec is 18 ft/lbs.

On NGK's website it said these would work. I already installed them with anti-seize as other members suggested. Car runs fine, no codes or anything.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by SlickE90

On NGK's website it said these would work. I already installed them with anti-seize as other members suggested. Car runs fine, no codes or anything.

There have been plenty of posts around here on the difference between OE and OEM plugs, your choice.

Sucks about the anti-seize.

[hassmaschine]

nothing wrong with anti seize. if you put enough on to affect the torque, then you put way too much on.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

nothing wrong with anti seize. if you put enough on to affect the torque, then you put way too much on.

Any amount will affect the torque...

And yes, lubricated bolts will yield an inaccurate torque spec. Clean dry unstretched threads are the only way to get a correct reading.

[hassmaschine]

torquing spark plugs is overkill IMO, but that's another debate. I guess I've changed enough of them by now to know how tight they need to be.

[Volasko]

I'm pretty sure these plugs have a crush washer, which means you hand tighten until you snug everything up, then tighten another 1/2 or 3/4 tuns (I can't remember) to set the washer.

[SlickE90]

Originally Posted by Volasko

I'm pretty sure these plugs have a crush washer, which means you hand tighten until you snug everything up, then tighten another 1/2 or 3/4 tuns (I can't remember) to set the washer.

That's pretty much what I did.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

torquing spark plugs is overkill IMO, but that's another debate. I guess I've changed enough of them by now to know how tight they need to be.

Originally Posted by Volasko

I'm pretty sure these plugs have a crush washer, which means you hand tighten until you snug everything up, then tighten another 1/2 or 3/4 tuns (I can't remember) to set the washer.

Originally Posted by SlickE90

That's pretty much what I did.

They do have a crush washer, but that doesn't mean they also don't have a torque spec. It is 18 ft/lbs, just like it was on the M54 before the N52.

[SDemetris]

Yeah, idk about torqueing spark plugs. The range of acceptable torques is large enough that you'll be safe using a short handled ratchet and not going too hard on it. I guess it never hurts to be careful though.

[thomas88162]

Plugs are anti-seized from the factory. Not only does adding more invalidate torque specs, it is UNNECESSARY.

[hassmaschine]

mine were dry. but, whatever. I'll let you know when one of my 3 BMWs explodes.

[thomas88162]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

mine were dry. but, whatever. I'll let you know when one of my 3 BMWs explodes.

I never said it would explode, it won't really hurt anything. Just that it is already applied from the factory. Bah, you act like you're the only one who maintains a herd of Bimmers . They don't use the liquid form, it is a ceramic application of anti seize, far superior because it coats the entire threaded surface. Just letting all you know that there is no advantage to doing it like there was in the good ol' days. It is standardized now, I doubt you could find a spark plug without the stuff.