[OneMoreAlex]

Please forgive me I know this has been beaten to death but I could use some help.

My car has been running hot the past few weeks. I don't have the factory oil cooler temps usually range from 230F-245F normally. Lately I'm seeing temps above 250F-270F. Water pump was replaced ~20k ago by bmw. Where I live the temperature outside rarely sees 95F during the hottest days of summer.

I began to investigate what could be causing it. I started by removing the under plastic and checking for leaks. I didn't find anything consistent. Next I inspected to the infamous expansion tank, checked the seem where everyone usually notices a leak...nothing; but there seemed to be a few dried up drops under the cap, yet still nothing major. I opened the cap to the expansion tank, level was just below "low"so I filled up with distilled water to max and proceeded to bleed the system thinking maybe it's air? I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere. I drove around after refilling the tank enough to get it to operating temp and then I got underneath but still didn't see anything leaking. I checked the level after it cooled down and it was about the same as when I filled it.

A few days go by, all seems okay. Until today the outside temp is 90F, didn't start running hot until I got on the highway. I noticed it starting to climb past 250F all the way to about 265F. Anybody have a suggestion what I should look for next? I'm all out of options here and CPO warranty just expired Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[rtn1911]

Those temperatures don't surprise me given you have a turbo. My 328i runs ~250F when fully warmed up. Probably wouldn't hurt to flush/fill coolant though.

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Please forgive me I know this has been beaten to death but I could use some help.

My car has been running hot the past few weeks. I don't have the factory oil cooler temps usually range from 230F-245F normally. Lately I'm seeing temps above 250F-270F. Water pump was replaced ~20k ago by bmw. Where I live the temperature outside rarely sees 95F during the hottest days of summer.

I began to investigate what could be causing it. I started by removing the under plastic and checking for leaks. I didn't find anything consistent. Next I inspected to the infamous expansion tank, checked the seem where everyone usually notices a leak...nothing; but there seemed to be a few dried up drops under the cap, yet still nothing major. I opened the cap to the expansion tank, level was just below "low"so I filled up with distilled water to max and proceeded to bleed the system thinking maybe it's air? I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere. I drove around after refilling the tank enough to get it to operating temp and then I got underneath but still didn't see anything leaking. I checked the level after it cooled down and it was about the same as when I filled it.

A few days go by, all seems okay. Until today the outside temp is 90F, didn't start running hot until I got on the highway. I noticed it starting to climb past 250F all the way to about 265F. Anybody have a suggestion what I should look for next? I'm all out of options here and CPO warranty just expired Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Flip the oil cooler thermostat. That way it will continuously run (not just open at 230*) and should give your car a fighting chance to stay cool.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Please forgive me I know this has been beaten to death but I could use some help.

My car has been running hot the past few weeks. I don't have the factory oil cooler temps usually range from 230F-245F normally. Lately I'm seeing temps above 250F-270F. Water pump was replaced ~20k ago by bmw. Where I live the temperature outside rarely sees 95F during the hottest days of summer.

I began to investigate what could be causing it. I started by removing the under plastic and checking for leaks. I didn't find anything consistent. Next I inspected to the infamous expansion tank, checked the seem where everyone usually notices a leak...nothing; but there seemed to be a few dried up drops under the cap, yet still nothing major. I opened the cap to the expansion tank, level was just below "low"so I filled up with distilled water to max and proceeded to bleed the system thinking maybe it's air? I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere. I drove around after refilling the tank enough to get it to operating temp and then I got underneath but still didn't see anything leaking. I checked the level after it cooled down and it was about the same as when I filled it.

A few days go by, all seems okay. Until today the outside temp is 90F, didn't start running hot until I got on the highway. I noticed it starting to climb past 250F all the way to about 265F. Anybody have a suggestion what I should look for next? I'm all out of options here and CPO warranty just expired Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Try running a better oil. I use Redline 5w-30 and my temps decreased 10-15f by just the change alone. I don't get over 240 even after 5-6 WOT pulls.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Try running a better oil. I use Redline 5w-30 and my temps decreased 10-15f by just the change alone. I don't get over 240 even after 5-6 WOT pulls.

I might try this, I used to run Mobil 1 0w-40 until this last change since it's no longer long life approved. Since then I switched to castrol 0w40.

Although I'm not 100% convinced that it's the oil that could be causing he higher temps, I noticed my coolant has been low over the past few weeks I've had to fill maybe 2-3 times. I just can't seem to spot anywhere it might be leaking from.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by sirdaft1

Flip the oil cooler thermostat. That way it will continuously run (not just open at 230*) and should give your car a fighting chance to stay cool.

Thanks I would do that but my car didn't come with the factory oil cooler

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Thanks I would do that but my car didn't come with the factory oil cooler

You should consider a retrofit with the housing since you are reaching unsafe temps. I'd go with the evolution racewerks sport oil cooler

[BruceJ]

Since I didn't see any mention of optimal or unsafe OIL temps take a moment and read the link below, the values provided are pretty standard (220 F is fully warmed up, 250 is ok, 265 is high and 275 is starting to be not good, but probably not pull it over and shut it off). While all oils are not the same, a premium, full syn oil is engineered to operate in the temps mentioned. I think everyone gets excited when oil temp exceeds water temp, cause water temp traditionally is all we have seen.

OP, your writeup makes me think you are thinking this is a coolant leak issue; if it is, you will have obvious serious problems, independent of engine oil temp. Like your car pissing coolant all over the place, lots of steam if at full temp and a tow truck. I would first change the oil, making sure it is "properly" filled. Part of the reason BMW has a greater oil sump capacity is management of engine oil temp. If that does not address the problem add an oil cooler. In any event, 250 F oil temp is not something to be excited about, but 275 and up is.

IMHO BMW should have kept that gage water instead of oil. If you don't track your car, or tow, engine oil temps should never get to the point where they break down. Instead we get an oil temp light that looks like coolant temp and idiot lights to let us know we just smoked our engine/warped head(s).

Good Luck
Bruce

http://beta.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/

[kaybat]

this helped my temps(a little)
http://burgertuning.com/sport_oil_cooler_valve.html

oil cooler retrofit(did it,its pretty involved):

[mweisdorfer]

Try running a 5w-40 weight oil. A little thicker oil may give your engine more protection under hotter temps outside.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by BruceJ

Since I didn't see any mention of optimal or unsafe OIL temps take a moment and read the link below, the values provided are pretty standard (220 F is fully warmed up, 250 is ok, 265 is high and 275 is starting to be not good, but probably not pull it over and shut it off). While all oils are not the same, a premium, full syn oil is engineered to operate in the temps mentioned. I think everyone gets excited when oil temp exceeds water temp, cause water temp traditionally is all we have seen.

OP, your writeup makes me think you are thinking this is a coolant leak issue; if it is, you will have obvious serious problems, independent of engine oil temp. Like your car pissing coolant all over the place, lots of steam if at full temp and a tow truck. I would first change the oil, making sure it is "properly" filled. Part of the reason BMW has a greater oil sump capacity is management of engine oil temp. If that does not address the problem add an oil cooler. In any event, 250 F oil temp is not something to be excited about, but 275 and up is.

IMHO BMW should have kept that gage water instead of oil. If you don't track your car, or tow, engine oil temps should never get to the point where they break down. Instead we get an oil temp light that looks like coolant temp and idiot lights to let us know we just smoked our engine/warped head(s).

Good Luck
Bruce

http://beta.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/

Hey Bruce, thanks for the response. Yes, I am aware I'm looking at oil temp on the gauge. Im leaning toward this being a coolant issue since the tank has been low over the past few weeks. From my understanding a high oil temp could be a sign of a coolant leak. With no obvious sign of a leak and with the under plastic off I'm running out of possibilities of what could be my issue.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Hey Bruce, thanks for the response. Yes, I am aware I'm looking at oil temp on the gauge. Im leaning toward this being a coolant issue since the tank has been low over the past few weeks. From my understanding a high oil temp could be a sign of a coolant leak. With no obvious sign of a leak and with the under plastic off I'm running out of possibilities of what could be my issue.

You may have a small coolant leak, but that's likely not the cause of the oil temp issue. If you want to be sure, you can display the coolant temperature on the dash, search for "E90 hidden menu". Use option 7.0 to show the coolant temperature. It should be somewhere around 100 to 105 degrees C when it's warmed up.

[sk55]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Please forgive me I know this has been beaten to death but I could use some help.

My car has been running hot the past few weeks. I don't have the factory oil cooler temps usually range from 230F-245F normally. Lately I'm seeing temps above 250F-270F. Water pump was replaced ~20k ago by bmw. Where I live the temperature outside rarely sees 95F during the hottest days of summer.

I began to investigate what could be causing it. I started by removing the under plastic and checking for leaks. I didn't find anything consistent. Next I inspected to the infamous expansion tank, checked the seem where everyone usually notices a leak...nothing; but there seemed to be a few dried up drops under the cap, yet still nothing major. I opened the cap to the expansion tank, level was just below "low"so I filled up with distilled water to max and proceeded to bleed the system thinking maybe it's air? I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere. I drove around after refilling the tank enough to get it to operating temp and then I got underneath but still didn't see anything leaking. I checked the level after it cooled down and it was about the same as when I filled it.

A few days go by, all seems okay. Until today the outside temp is 90F, didn't start running hot until I got on the highway. I noticed it starting to climb past 250F all the way to about 265F. Anybody have a suggestion what I should look for next? I'm all out of options here and CPO warranty just expired Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

did u fill this yourself with bmw coolant? make sure you u filled 50/50 i know some mechanics put straight coolant in... 50/50 has better heat capacity so it removes more heat from the system...

check your bleed procedure...

clean out any area that has dried white spots... coolant dries powder white... with brake cleaner...

thermostat could be messed up?

i'd prob run odbII scanner and drive around see what your coolant temps are see if the water pump is struggling... these electronic water pumps and replacements are known to suck!.... dying at 30k miles...etc....


just listing a few thoughts hope it helps.

[sk55]

Originally Posted by kkasson

You may have a small coolant leak, but that's likely not the cause of the oil temp issue. If you want to be sure, you can display the coolant temperature on the dash, search for "E90 hidden menu". Use option 7.0 to show the coolant temperature. It should be somewhere around 100 to 105 degrees C when it's warmed up.

awesome tip!! i gotta check this out... i living dangerously i got 80k now...gulp!

[sk55]

fyi

if your losing coolant this might help find the leak

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


check it out there some youtube video on it... i just use it to calibarate my wastegates.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by sk55

did u fill this yourself with bmw coolant? make sure you u filled 50/50 i know some mechanics put straight coolant in... 50/50 has better heat capacity so it removes more heat from the system...

check your bleed procedure...

clean out any area that has dried white spots... coolant dries powder white... with brake cleaner...

thermostat could be messed up?

i'd prob run odbII scanner and drive around see what your coolant temps are see if the water pump is struggling... these electronic water pumps and replacements are known to suck!.... dying at 30k miles...etc....


just listing a few thoughts hope it helps.

Just to update everyone:

I didn't even notice that the BMW coolant was 100% coolant and not a 50/50 mix like I thought it was. I added a pretty decent amount of just straight coolant without ever realizing. Once I figured this out I drained a decent amount of what was in there out and refilled with 50/50 and topped off with distilled water. Oil temp hasn't gone over 250F since. I'll keep you guys posted, I'm thinking of maybe fully flushing out the coolant since it's seem to solve this issue.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by sk55

fyi

if your losing coolant this might help find the leak

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


check it out there some youtube video on it... i just use it to calibarate my wastegates.

Thanks man I was actually thinking of picking up a new expansion tank lid and making something like this with the old one.

[E30_335i]

The BMS cowl filters eliminate the heat trapping OEM cowl assembly. Opens the back of the hood up for airflow. I went from 250 to 230 when I changed to the BMS pieces.

[elons335i]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Try running a 5w-40 weight oil. A little thicker oil may give your engine more protection under hotter temps outside.

This is just plain wrong.

The only difference in what you're saying is when engine is cold, in other words super thick honey like oil at start up. Both will be identical thickness at operating temperature.

This needs to be redacted. Someone please ban all oil discussion and create a sticky

[ibd12nv]

Nine did not come with the oil cooler as well. 2007 model with 2006 build. The oil cooler did the trick in this Desert heat of the south west.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by E30_335i

The BMS cowl filters eliminate the heat trapping OEM cowl assembly. Opens the back of the hood up for airflow. I went from 250 to 230 when I changed to the BMS pieces.

The thought has crossed my mind before to run them also. My main concern about the cowl filters is leaving everything exposed. What's your take on that? Do you notice rain getting into the engine at all?

[E30_335i]

There is a gutter where the rain still runs along the firewall/fender, so most water channels along there. No problem so far.