[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jasonlu

hi, i have a queston. what kind of wax do i need to put on my AW 2009 e92 335i? can anyone give me some choices? where can i get it? thank you!!!!

My name is Greg and I'm the owner of www.DetailedImage.com and we're a site sponsor here that would be happy to help you. If you are looking to protect your paint we recommend a sealant or a wax. Sealants are artificial waxes that last about 3 - 6 months. A carnauba wax is a natural based product but it only lasts about 2 - 6 weeks. Therefore we generally recommend sealants for a daily driver. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant that looks amazing and protects for months. If you prefer the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or for a great value try the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax. We offer 10% off to forum members with the coupon code e90post. If you have any questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Hessian577

Hello...I drive a 2011 328i E90. Only had it for almost 6 months and the headlights already look buffed/scratched with light scratches. Instead of the light flowing through the lens, the light now forms a blotch of light on the actual lens itself revealing all the scratches. Is there a way to get it back to brand new crystal clear? I know a majority of the time there's isn't much you can do but I would expect this from an older car...mine is still brand new. Thanks

That can be frustrating and I'm surprised to hear such a new car has such bad haze. Check out these articles about headlights from our professional detailers:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-on-a-budget/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-and-menzerna/

Hopefully they will provide an outline of how to restore them and get them looking clean and clear again. If you have any questions after reading them don't hesitate to ask me. Also don't forget you can protect the exterior of them with a sealant just like you would use on your paint (i.e. Blackfire Wet Diamond, etc.). Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

[jasonlu]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

My name is Greg and I'm the owner of www.DetailedImage.com and we're a site sponsor here that would be happy to help you. If you are looking to protect your paint we recommend a sealant or a wax. Sealants are artificial waxes that last about 3 - 6 months. A carnauba wax is a natural based product but it only lasts about 2 - 6 weeks. Therefore we generally recommend sealants for a daily driver. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is my favorite sealant that looks amazing and protects for months. If you prefer the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or for a great value try the Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax. We offer 10% off to forum members with the coupon code e90post. If you have any questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

thanks, Greg. what aout The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? what do you think about this combination? if i use this one do i still need a wax??

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jasonlu

thanks, Greg. what aout The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze? what do you think about this combination? if i use this one do i still need a wax??

The Klasse products both work great. The Klasse AIO helps clean and protect in one step. The Klasse HGSG looks great and protects really long, however it can be a little bit of a pain to use. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

[jasonlu]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

The Klasse products both work great. The Klasse AIO helps clean and protect in one step. The Klasse HGSG looks great and protects really long, however it can be a little bit of a pain to use. Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

what do you mean by a little bit of pain to use it??can you explain it please?

[MstrRogers330i]

I have some type of buildup on the interior trim of my car and its on there pretty good, any suggestions on how to remove it? Also, I have some black buildup on my wheels (assuming its brake dust) which will not come off with a typical cleaning, any suggestions here?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[jasonlu]

hi，I know not much and detail. i want to protect my paint cause i live in apartment. My car will be expose under the sun. It's a AW 335 coupe. I just bought The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaz. Want to use them after wash and dry. What else do I need?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jasonlu

what do you mean by a little bit of pain to use it??can you explain it please?

Originally Posted by jasonlu

hi，I know not much and detail. i want to protect my paint cause i live in apartment. My car will be expose under the sun. It's a AW 335 coupe. I just bought The Klasse Kit including # Klasse All-In-One and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaz. Want to use them after wash and dry. What else do I need?

Most high quality sealants should be applied nice and thin, however the Klasse HGSG MUST be applied very thin. If you apply it a bit too thick or if the weather is a bit too humid or hot it can be challenging to buff off the excess product. A lot of people use it and love it but it's one of the very few sealants that has a bit of a learning curve with it. If you do pick it up I highly recommend pouring some in a DI Accessories Dispenser Bottles 2oz, which helps you regulate how much you are using and it has a fine tip. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by MstrRogers330i

I have some type of buildup on the interior trim of my car and its on there pretty good, any suggestions on how to remove it? Also, I have some black buildup on my wheels (assuming its brake dust) which will not come off with a typical cleaning, any suggestions here?



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

If it's a build up on top of the coated hard wood you could use a clay bar on it and if that doesn't work use a light degreaser (i.e. P21S Total Auto Wash). If that doesn't work or if there is a light etching you could use a very light polish on it like the Menzerna Micro Finish (PO85RD Polish). It will make the coated wood look more optically clear again so you get a great shine.

For the wheels I assume you've tried a good wheel cleaner like the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect on them first. If that doesn't work usually a good metal polish with some elbow grease is needed. The P21S Finish Restorer is one of the strongest metal polishes that works on both clear coated wheels and bare metal wheels. If you have any other questions please let me know!

Greg @ DI

[jasonlu]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Most high quality sealants should be applied nice and thin, however the Klasse HGSG MUST be applied very thin. If you apply it a bit too thick or if the weather is a bit too humid or hot it can be challenging to buff off the excess product. A lot of people use it and love it but it's one of the very few sealants that has a bit of a learning curve with it. If you do pick it up I highly recommend pouring some in a DI Accessories Dispenser Bottles 2oz, which helps you regulate how much you are using and it has a fine tip. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

thank you very much for your help!!! So it's fine to only use the klasses kit to protect my paint. i just need to be careful of using a very thin amount of sealants. it's that right? thank you very much again!!!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by jasonlu

thank you very much for your help!!! So it's fine to only use the klasses kit to protect my paint. i just need to be careful of using a very thin amount of sealants. it's that right? thank you very much again!!!

Happy to help! The AIO is pretty user friendly, but you'll only need about 1oz per coat. The HGSG is where you'll want to be extra careful and you'll need less than one ounce per coat for most vehicles. Good luck!

[parapaul]

Hi guys

I started my own thread before I saw this one: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524157

Headlights are covered in really small stone chips. Is it possible to wet sand and polish them back to a good condition, or is it not possible on the plastic?

Thanks

[L3O710]

since you say that klasse sealant needs to come on as thin as possible, would it be possible to put it in a spray bottle and mist it on or is the klasse sealant too viscous to mist

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by parapaul

Hi guys

I started my own thread before I saw this one: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524157

Headlights are covered in really small stone chips. Is it possible to wet sand and polish them back to a good condition, or is it not possible on the plastic?

Thanks

Just posted a response which I'm copying below.

Here are some great articles to read from our Ask a Pro Blog:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-and-menzerna/

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...s-on-a-budget/

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by v3n0m710

since you say that klasse sealant needs to come on as thin as possible, would it be possible to put it in a spray bottle and mist it on or is the klasse sealant too viscous to mist

Again the Klasse AIO is easy to work with and it doesn't have to be applied too thin. The Klasse HGSG is the one that should be applied very thin. However I don't think it should be used in a spray bottle like this one(DI Accessories Pump Spray Bottle). Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

[Deathjester]

Do you have anyone in Michigan that you would be confident in recommending?

[Detailed Image]

Yes I have an outstanding detailer for you, Marc and Jacob from AutoLavish. Check out some of their top quality detailing work and detailing knowledge here - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...r/marc-harris/. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Greg @ DI

[TomE92]

I was washing my car today with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash with the proper dilution. 1oz per gallon and I washed my whole car using dual 5 gallon bucket system.

Now I clay barred my hood and fenders and then buffed it with Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant using a Porter Cable.

It got dark and I don't have enough room to comfortably work on the rest of the car.

I'm going to an event about 3 hours away from me tomorrow (saturday). Would it be ok to wash my car again and clay bar and apply sealant on the rest of the car on sunday? Can I apply a second layer on the hood and fenders without having to worry about scratches?

Thanks for any input!

[parapaul]

Hi again

I've got a cupboard full of odds and ends that I've collected over the years, but my E91 is Sparkling Graphite and I have no idea whether what I have will work well, or if I need to use that up on the wife's car and start again for mine. Currently I have:

Snowfoam
Shampoo - none, just ran out! Usually Meg's Gold Class, but I like the reviews of the Dodo Juice range.
Clay + QD
Polish - I've got half a bottle of AG SRP, but I've also got a bottle of some medium compound 3M stuff, and a
Silverline rotary - needs new pads though.
Sealant - Remains of some AG EGP.
Wax - Cheap 'n' cheerful Megs Tech Wax, which I should have thrown after using it once and a tin of 3D Blue Paste Wax, which I've had good results with on both silver and deep blue cars.
Wheels - litres and litres of Bilberry (or similar) concentrate.
- CG Wheel Guard
- No tyre dressing, run out.

I know I need some leather cleaner/conditioner and some glass polish, but is any of the above going to bring out the peculiar colours of the SG paint?

Any reccomendations for:

1. Shampoo? Dodo Juice or otherwise?
2. Sealant and/or wax? I understand the difference, just looking for ideas.
3. Pads for the rotary? What colour/size etc?
4. Tyre dressing?

Thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by TomE92

I was washing my car today with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash with the proper dilution. 1oz per gallon and I washed my whole car using dual 5 gallon bucket system.

Now I clay barred my hood and fenders and then buffed it with Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant using a Porter Cable.

It got dark and I don't have enough room to comfortably work on the rest of the car.

I'm going to an event about 3 hours away from me tomorrow (saturday). Would it be ok to wash my car again and clay bar and apply sealant on the rest of the car on sunday? Can I apply a second layer on the hood and fenders without having to worry about scratches?

Thanks for any input!

I would suggest re-washing the entire vehicle and as a minimum clay the areas you did not already clay, so the entire vehicle has been now clayed. After that apply a coat of the BFWD to the entire car and you should be fine. I typically use a clay bar two times a year and if you protect the vehicle regularly in between it should stay pretty clean. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by parapaul

Hi again

I've got a cupboard full of odds and ends that I've collected over the years, but my E91 is Sparkling Graphite and I have no idea whether what I have will work well, or if I need to use that up on the wife's car and start again for mine. Currently I have:

Snowfoam
Shampoo - none, just ran out! Usually Meg's Gold Class, but I like the reviews of the Dodo Juice range.
Clay + QD
Polish - I've got half a bottle of AG SRP, but I've also got a bottle of some medium compound 3M stuff, and a
Silverline rotary - needs new pads though.
Sealant - Remains of some AG EGP.
Wax - Cheap 'n' cheerful Megs Tech Wax, which I should have thrown after using it once and a tin of 3D Blue Paste Wax, which I've had good results with on both silver and deep blue cars.
Wheels - litres and litres of Bilberry (or similar) concentrate.
- CG Wheel Guard
- No tyre dressing, run out.

I know I need some leather cleaner/conditioner and some glass polish, but is any of the above going to bring out the peculiar colours of the SG paint?

Any reccomendations for:

1. Shampoo? Dodo Juice or otherwise?
2. Sealant and/or wax? I understand the difference, just looking for ideas.
3. Pads for the rotary? What colour/size etc?
4. Tyre dressing?

Thanks

Thanks for the message as always we are here to help out. All the products you listed will work, but what is the absolute best for your specific paint is often a matter of opinion. In my experiences there are better options for your color but again it's subjective. I'll get right in to my recommendations for the areas you mentioned.

1.) Shampoo I usually keep two kinds handy. Before a full detail I wash with a shampoo that safely removes all the old wax and sealant on the surface. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash is a great shampoo for this task that is safe and effective. If you want to maintain the sealant and wax on the surface try a shampoo like the Dodo Juice Born to be Mild Shampoo. It has tons of suds and a very slick feel to it for safe washings.

If you need a clay bar and lube here is a great value -DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube

2.) I wasn't sure if you were interested in new polishes as well or if you were going to use the ones you have on hand. Polishing is the most important step in the process of restoring the paint. If interested the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 (orange pad) and the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 (white pad). This is a great two step combo that will help you remove the swirls, oxidation, etc. for good and get the clear coat optically clear for maximum shine.

The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is a great sealant that leaves an outstanding shine and protection. Apply this by hand with a foam applicator. Sealants and waxes are generally not applied with rotary buffers.

As for waxes the Dodo Juice Diamond White Hard Wax and the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax are two of my favorites. For a little bit less money the P21S Concours Carnauba Wax is a great choice. Again these should all be hand applied.

Remove all of these products by hand with clean microfiber towels like the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. It's a very soft and paint safe towel that very effectively removes the left over particles.

3.) I listed the pads you would need above (Lake Country orange and white). I generally recommend at least two per coat for each polish so at least 2x orange and 2x white. For rotary buffers the larger the pad the more cutting power you will get. However rotary buffers have plenty of power usually so many people prefer the 4" and 5.5" pads. They are easier to control and safer, just make sure you get the corresponding rotary backing plate.
Lake Country Rotary Backing Plate for 4 Inch Pads
Lake Country Rotary Hook & Loop 5" Backing Plate

4.) If you want something that truly lasts the TUF SHINE Tire Appearance Kit is nothing short of amazing. It looks great and it's far more durable than anything I've used before. If you prefer something more traditional and less expensive the Poorboy's World Bold 'n Bright is great! I apply it with the Lake Country Tire Dressing Applicator.

Misc areas you mentioned
Glass Polish - Glass Science Glass Scrub deep cleans the glass so it's smoother and more optically clear

Leather Cleaner and Conditioner - Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is an amazing combination I highly recommend for restoring and maintaining leather. Check out this article about how to maximize Leatherique by Todd Cooperider.

If you want a one step leather cleaner and conditioner the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff is a nice choice.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Thanks for the message as always we are here to help out. All the products you listed will work, but what is the absolute best for your specific paint is often a matter of opinion. In my experiences there are better options for your color but again it's subjective. I'll get right in to my recommendations for the areas you mentioned.

1.) Shampoo I usually keep two kinds handy. Before a full detail I wash with a shampoo that safely removes all the old wax and sealant on the surface. The Chemical Guys Citrus Wash is a great shampoo for this task that is safe and effective. If you want to maintain the sealant and wax on the surface try a shampoo like the Dodo Juice Born to be Mild Shampoo. It has tons of suds and a very slick feel to it for safe washings.

If you need a clay bar and lube here is a great value -DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube

2.) I wasn't sure if you were interested in new polishes as well or if you were going to use the ones you have on hand. Polishing is the most important step in the process of restoring the paint. If interested the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 (orange pad) and the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 (white pad). This is a great two step combo that will help you remove the swirls, oxidation, etc. for good and get the clear coat optically clear for maximum shine.

The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is a great sealant that leaves an outstanding shine and protection. Apply this by hand with a foam applicator. Sealants and waxes are generally not applied with rotary buffers.

As for waxes the Dodo Juice Diamond White Hard Wax and the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax are two of my favorites. For a little bit less money the P21S Concours Carnauba Wax is a great choice. Again these should all be hand applied.

Remove all of these products by hand with clean microfiber towels like the DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. It's a very soft and paint safe towel that very effectively removes the left over particles.

3.) I listed the pads you would need above (Lake Country orange and white). I generally recommend at least two per coat for each polish so at least 2x orange and 2x white. For rotary buffers the larger the pad the more cutting power you will get. However rotary buffers have plenty of power usually so many people prefer the 4" and 5.5" pads. They are easier to control and safer, just make sure you get the corresponding rotary backing plate.
Lake Country Rotary Backing Plate for 4 Inch Pads
Lake Country Rotary Hook & Loop 5" Backing Plate

4.) If you want something that truly lasts the TUF SHINE Tire Appearance Kit is nothing short of amazing. It looks great and it's far more durable than anything I've used before. If you prefer something more traditional and less expensive the Poorboy's World Bold 'n Bright is great! I apply it with the Lake Country Tire Dressing Applicator.

Misc areas you mentioned
Glass Polish - Glass Science Glass Scrub deep cleans the glass so it's smoother and more optically clear

Leather Cleaner and Conditioner - Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is an amazing combination I highly recommend for restoring and maintaining leather. Check out this article about how to maximize Leatherique by Todd Cooperider.

If you want a one step leather cleaner and conditioner the Poorboy's World Leather Stuff is a nice choice.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ DI

Hi Greg,

I got my first buffer, a PC 7424 with a set of 6" LC pads. Should I worry to use bigger pads than the one mention into your post?

Also, I just got from you the Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II. Is it too aggressive if I want to keep my wax and sealant? (i.e. washing the car between 2 detailing)

thanks

Eric